How To: 1944 Chev HUW restoration

[Bob Phillips]

Hi Bruce, no charge for the pliers. I am delighted to see the progress you have made on the truck. While there is great satisfaction in restoring a vehicle and getting it back on the road, there is also satisfaction in seeing vehicles that you have owned passed along to someone who will actually fix them, not just dream about doing it! Keep up the good work!

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Progress or organized chaos I'm not sure, but the HUW is getting attention post sandblasting. Here's a few pics. The generator cabinet is welded in, the 'donor' rear upper back installed, the punched in roof removed ready for new steel and the fabricated body panels positioned ready to weld up. The interior bins, wireless table and brick-brack are ready to install once the skin is on.

[Jordan Baker]

Looks great Bruce. Can’t wait to see it beside the Wire3 for pictures.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Got the body skin back on. I'll probably work on the roof hatches next then go back to the fenders and running boards. Or maybe the reverse...

[Ganmain Tony]

Strewth Bruce you do not muck around.

May I ask.. is the skin new steel? If so what gauge thickness is it?

If you were able to use the original, was there much work in repairing it?

It is going to be a very nice example.

[David Dunlop]

Looking good, Bruce!

David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

All the body skin except the side body door and two upper corners that wrap around the back/rear sides are new 18 gauge which matches the original 'skin' (I took a lot of notes and photos!!). I was also able to save a portion of the roof that was reinforced for the aerial bases but the section rear of that and up to the sliding roof hatch needed replacing. The gem that saved me (because otherwise I don't know what I would have done) is finding a rear top body section with all those curves. After breaking about a million welds and spot welds it fit on great. Oh, and the floor is original which not only saves me a ton of work but has a checker plate pattern I doubt I could find anymore.

[Ganmain Tony]

Thanks for taking the time to explain that Bruce.

Enjoying this thread and will continue to visit with interest and to pester you further with questions.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

If you were able to use the original, was there much work in repairing it?

Expanding on this, for what it's worth, sheet metal repairs have always scared me. Luckily CMPs are generally flat so complex compound curves and stampings are not a problem. And robust 18 gauge panels are way better than antique cars with their flimsy 22 gauge or thinner sections

Banged up sections are always a judgement call. Do you hammer them out or replace? If replace, can you match the contours of the original? If so, I've found pop rivets to align the new edges work...weld, then fill the rivet holes.

Filling holes has always been another problem. Bondo just didn't sit well with me and welding shut generally was messy and could distort if too much heat was applied. I've worked out a method where short MIG 'bursts' around the edge of the hole can fill it, followed by a reciprocal application on the inside, then grind smooth. I'm approaching 3/4" holes with some success.