Jeep project underway

[Mike K]

This is a good instructional video on how NOT to install your jeep pivot bolts The bushing is loose in the spring eye for a start . And those spring washers

You can see the hanger hole is too large for the bolt anyway

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A70wHVerz2k

[Mike Cecil]

Yep, pretty dodgy method in that video, Mike. I suppose, given the limited service life span that the GPW and MB were designed for, the method of preventing the pivot bolts from rotating was cheap, easily installed and sufficiently robust, so 'good enough' in the circumstances. I doubt the designers envisaged that MB and GPWs would be still employed by armies well into the 1960s, or that civilians would be trying to rebuild them nearly 80 years later.

There are possibly plenty of improvements that could be made to various parts of a jeep to make it more robust and longer-lasting. The chassis came in for some officially-promulgated strengthening while in service by the addition of 'T' pieces at the rear, and the steering bell-crank received an added web, for example.

Nice job on the bolts: very skillful.

Mike

[Lynn Eades]

Unfortunately Mike and Mike, there are lots of "how to" You tube clips that demonstrate less than "best practice" info. I guess if the bush was longer and was locked in the hanger and you didn't mind wearing the spring eye that would do? (except that no grease gets to the right place)
I note that my replacement bolts have an 1/8th gas thread in them (and it appears) like the one in the You tube clip. He has used an NPT zerk. (very loose)
His use of the spring washer, is to fill the gap, other wise the nut floats around under the split pin. I used a flat washer.
All in all, that clip fails at all points. As you say, "How not to".

[Mike K]

The Ford factory drawing of the jeep spring hanger: the inside width dimension should be a few thou under 1.7" . After measuring the repro hangers I have, I discovered they were wider by quite a margin. I managed to press the sides inwards to the cortect width using a hydraulic jack.

[Mike K]

I have tracked down a few more jeep bits and will be picking them up this weekend up as the Melbourne/regional travel lockdown has finally been eased.

I bought these drills and the feedback reports seem to indicate they are decent quality. For the price it's worth a gamble.

https://www.banggood.com/Drillpro-50...r_warehouse=CN

Can't have too many drills Postage time for items from China has slowed right down recently. Wonder if there is any W.A. iron ore in these drills

[Mike K]

The Banggood drills have arrived, they appear to be decent quality , M35 grade but who knows what they are actually made from

In between lockdowns I managed to pickup a NOS WW2 Jeep front axle assembly minus the CV joints and brake bits. The seller informed me he purchased the axle from Hughes Coburg in the 1960s. I paid what people pay for a carton of beer these days.

On teardown it displays nil wear , the bell crank post is mint which is handy as these things can be a nightmare to remove.

On the negative side it has been stored in a damp environment and rust has damaged the crown wheel to the point of being useless.

I will be replacing the tie rod ends and all of the bearings , the hemispheres have suffered from corrosion too but should clean up OK . I found the RZEPPA tags still on the swivel housings which is a bonus.

The crown wheel was difficult to get out , seized carrier bearings .

[Mike K]

An update on things.

The suspension issues on the build are turning into a nightmare. I want the suspension to be solid and safe , no compromises. This Jeep came with post-war locally made replacement springs, almost certainly fitted by the Aust. army. These 1950s replacements have the usual issues, worn/thin leaves and worn eyes.

I do have three original WW2 springs, again, worn leaves, worn out of round eyes , corrosion , just what you would expect from near 80 year old springs.

I decided to buy two new front 8 leaf springs... yes, they are strong, and have slightly thicker leaves (about .030"). Problem is, they bear little resemblance to original WW2 Jeep springs, just about everything is wrong ! Leaves are wrong length, edges not beveled, the rebound clips are incorrect.

What to do. I have decided to use the two new long #1 and #2 leaves, and file the edges to a bevel. I have the original WW2 specs. and drawings. I found some 80" Land Rover springs ( also slightly thicker ) in reasonable shape, these are the same width as Jeep springs, 1.75" . My plan is to cut these LR leaves to length and file the edges and re-camber them to the correct arch.

Well, that's it. All this takes time and effort and it never ends !