How To: 1944 Chev HUW restoration

[Ganmain Tony]

Strewth Bruce you do not muck around.

May I ask.. is the skin new steel? If so what gauge thickness is it?

If you were able to use the original, was there much work in repairing it?

It is going to be a very nice example.

[David Dunlop]

Looking good, Bruce!

David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

All the body skin except the side body door and two upper corners that wrap around the back/rear sides are new 18 gauge which matches the original 'skin' (I took a lot of notes and photos!!). I was also able to save a portion of the roof that was reinforced for the aerial bases but the section rear of that and up to the sliding roof hatch needed replacing. The gem that saved me (because otherwise I don't know what I would have done) is finding a rear top body section with all those curves. After breaking about a million welds and spot welds it fit on great. Oh, and the floor is original which not only saves me a ton of work but has a checker plate pattern I doubt I could find anymore.

[Ganmain Tony]

Thanks for taking the time to explain that Bruce.

Enjoying this thread and will continue to visit with interest and to pester you further with questions.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Every little bit brings you that much closer.

Here's my new-made sliding door for the generator cabinet. I took a photo of the original stenciling (I'm so happy an example still existed), rectified, scaled and positioned it, then used the results to cut a new stencil as close as possible to the original, poor spacing and all. I think the application of the original black paint was with one of those paint markers discussed a few weeks ago and not spray paint. I applied mine with a roller opting for clean edges instead of the weak application evident on the original.

Still, part of me wants the poor application of the original but it's dammed hard to replicate!!!

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Pic from end of day today.

[David Dunlop]

My Gosh, Bruce1

I can almost hear the chorehorse and dynamotors humming!


David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

My Gosh, Bruce1

I can almost hear the chorehorse and dynamotors humming!


David

Ready to go...

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

If you were able to use the original, was there much work in repairing it?

Expanding on this, for what it's worth, sheet metal repairs have always scared me. Luckily CMPs are generally flat so complex compound curves and stampings are not a problem. And robust 18 gauge panels are way better than antique cars with their flimsy 22 gauge or thinner sections

Banged up sections are always a judgement call. Do you hammer them out or replace? If replace, can you match the contours of the original? If so, I've found pop rivets to align the new edges work...weld, then fill the rivet holes.

Filling holes has always been another problem. Bondo just didn't sit well with me and welding shut generally was messy and could distort if too much heat was applied. I've worked out a method where short MIG 'bursts' around the edge of the hole can fill it, followed by a reciprocal application on the inside, then grind smooth. I'm approaching 3/4" holes with some success.