Flathead oil gallery

[m606paz]

Thank you all for your comments.
As you know, I do not have command of the English language, only the basic one, so it is difficult for me to write what I want to comment on.
After analyzing everything they have written and seeing that my engine had installed, before I had had a modern full flow filter system including an oil radiator, elements that I removed, because it is not the original configuration I am looking for.
But I find that they have installed a grub screw as shown in the previous drawings, which I will have to remove, and in that way to have oil again under pressure in the internal horizontal conduit along the engine that lubricates the crankshaft and connecting rods.

[Lynn Eades]

Hi Mariano. If you have nothing connected to your engine block (apart from an oil gauge) then you must remove that plug. It interrupts (stops) any flow from your oil pump to your bearings. It MUST be removed. You also have to make sure there is no loctite or sealant bits left in there to damage your bearings. If you have a bypass oil filter connected, you still remove it. Your first picture only applies to a FULL FLOW filter. In that case, the plug stays in. Be careful to understand what happens.
Thankfully your English is very good. If you spoke one word in your native language, I cannot understand.
Ask whatever questions you want to ask. I can only offer advise. I am trying to be clear.
The responsibility for what happens is on your shoulders. If you were next door, I would come over and help, but that cannot happen.

Ideally the grub screw / gallery issue should be decided while the block is bare (completely stripped)

[Lynn Eades]

Here are photos of the two alternatives (options) for the oil bypass filter return. Some sumps come from the factory with a fitting welded inthe side of the sump.

[Jacques Reed]

Thought this might be of interest:

As discussed, the orifice size on a bypass filter, or the orifice size in a grub screw when used in a semi full-flow filter, has to be very small to maintain oil pressure within the system.

I head read somewhere what the orifice size was on the bypass filter but cannot find it again. Not even sure if the size was factory info or someone's best measurement.

Thought I would see what it was on a spare bypass filter body I had laying around.

I used a set of numbered drills to check the hole size and my best estimate is a No.56 drill size which is 0.0465" diameter.

Unfortunately my No.55 drill is missing but a No.54 drill shank is too large and does not enter the hole so it could also be a No.55 which is 0.0520".

The difference between a No.56 and a No.55 drill is only 0.0055 so No.56 could still be the size as there is almost no gap around the drill in the photo. Whether that small difference would be critical is another matter.

In simple metric terms the hole is between 1.2 mm and 1.3 mm so any enlargement of it is not good for oil pressure.

Cheers,

[m606paz]

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Thought this might be of interest:

In simple metric terms the hole is between 1.2 mm and 1.3 mm so any enlargement of it is not good for oil pressure.

Cheers,

Jacques, thanks for your help!
Great info to know the hole diameter!

[Lynn Eades]

On a finer point, from memory, the volume that flows through a jet is not only dictated by the diameter of the orifice, but by its length as well.
Good info though Jacques.
For example the flow from the end of a long garden hose does not equal that from the tap without the hose connected.

[m606paz]

This is the home made grub screw found in the oil gallery

[m606paz]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Here are photos of the two alternatives (options) for the oil bypass filter return. Some sumps come from the factory with a fitting welded inthe side of the sump.

Hi Lynn
Thanks for the pics. The return on late flathead filter go to sump...