Info needed: C15A 2B1 cargo bed rebuild

[Paul Edwards]

Hi Bob,

That sounds like a good field/factory mod on those brackets. CORRECTION NOTED ABOVE

I wasn't aware of any ceiling pads before you mentioned it a while back, I have sourced some fibrous black felt (Auto sound deadening quilt). It may need doubling up on the thickness, but I'll see what it looks like before committing to glue.

My donkey dick (rad hose) is in hand!

PS, I'm aware the bullnose roof trim is not correct but it can stay until I find the correct profile.

Cheers,


Paul

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Paul

That trim must be available somewhere. Your posting reminded me to do mine. Lucky to have salvaged one years ago..... very thinned out by rust but still good. I lightly sand blasted for fear of cutting it in two....primed and painted.
After a couple of coats of POR 15 Grant did most of the installing. Had to order special round/flat tops in SS one inch size.....pre drilled the hard ash wood and it looks great. I should have acid dipped my screw heads first to help the of flat paint stick to them so come Spring I will dab each screw head with acid and repaint the whole cab.

For the roof pads......centered over each set....use a plumb line. I used one inch thick commercial high density grey foam cut to 16 /12 inches square and spray painted with automotive rubber spray..... 3 coats with time to dry in between...... also sprayed the back side one coat in case it curled. Finally glued with black PolyUrethane calking spread with a putty knife. As my roof was currently upside down on the work bench, I used two sand bags (40kg) to allow the glue to cure.....looks very good and still pliable.

To impress people at the gas station I usually pull out a CMP or UC sques funnel and attach the proper "horsecock" to the funnel then fill the tank until it spills over........ gets me a few laughs and the over spilling eventually washes the paint off the tank and requires a touch up.

Now if only Spring can get here!!!!

[Paul Edwards]

Spilling petrol! you must be made of money. haha

[Bob Carriere]

You can't see down the filler neck.... and can't even use a short wooden stick to gauge level...... maybe a flexible piece of split bamboo painted flat black.

And id you thing that is a bad layout...... wait until you are dressed up in your finest re enactor uniform and you have to check the engine oil level....... I would love to roast the engineer who design such a foul up..... I usually have to get on my knees on the running board, open the round hatch and feel around the distributor to find the open loop of the dip stick........ very similar to untying our girl friends bra single handedly....... pull it out, wipe it...... oh straight out before finding a suitable rag...... then put it back in to get an accurate reading on the oil level..... but you can't see where the open pipe is...... so guiding the dip stick with one hand you get to push down the dip stick with the other hand...... now you engine usually drip oil on the side so you need to remove your oily hand and wipe them clean, after you straighten out, now bend over again to retrieve the dip stick and pull it out being careful; not rub it against anything or your read may be inaccurate..... and you need to do this every time you start up your engine for a drive......

&^%^&$ on this..... if it still drip oil there must be some left......

...and you also need to verify the coolant by unscrewing the two thumb screws holding the "bonnet" etc.........

....and the brake level in the MC...... I now use a 20 cc syringe from the farm store.....

By now it is to late to go anywhere.....


Ah the pleasure of old machinery........

[Paul Edwards]

Thanks Bob, you must have been a dab hand at removing the girlfriend's bra with one hand...........Practice makes perfect! Haha

Cheers,


Paul

[Paul Edwards]

Some progress made yesterday with mocking up and drilling the hood bows prior to plating, added a few extra roof bars to prevent the canvas sagging.

Canvas offered up and all appears to be correct, phew!

Locker boxes and rear wheel mug guards now to look at repairing, waiting for much improved weather to start painting the paint end tin work.

Thanks for all the advice and assistance, much appreciated.

Cheers,


Paul

[Bob Carriere]

Nice job Paul

Can we get a close up photo sof the top bar connections to the hoops??? concerned about wearing a hole in the canvass at the connection...... might try sewing a leather rub patch to the tarp on the inside. Will you truck be stored inside most of the time???? I don't think mine will fit inside the sea can without removing the hoops....blah!!!!

I am thinking of adding extra tubes to mine also so it will remain firm for the canvas. I like the models with two extra side bars at the curve so I can roll up the side and keep the top section on for shade.......I still plan on using leather straps.

Too cold here also except to work inside the barn..... but can't paint or risk blowing the roof off the barn with "Lucifer" the wood furnace.

Cheers