How To: Remove valves from a Ford flat head

[Alastair Thomas]

Whilst we very much enjoyed the week away we were concerned about the performance of the engine. Progress slowed to 12 miles per hour or less given the slightest incline.
Granted the truck is fitted with the 21 stud 85HP engine rather than the 95HP engine it should have, but we reasoned that if the Chevrolet version of the LAAT had 85HP and could still keep up while weighed down with gunners, ammunition and, not to say the least, a Bofors gun, then our engine should have been able to cope.
We expended much effort in trying to find out why but could not solve the problem. This was partly because of the lock downs. In addition I cannot get to the truck readily due to personal reasons.
So we made the decision to buy a correct engine and I would rebuild it then we three could fit it.
When Mike Ebeling died and his collection was sold off we negotiated the purchase of a 24 stud engine for this purpose only to find that it was one of the relatively rare crossover engines having 24 studs but the smaller bores of a 85HP engine.
Recently we bought the engine we had been searching for.
Work commences
Because I can never resist a project, my garage is always full so I cleared a small space in the middle of the floor and placed the engine on a trolley there. Dismantling was easy as far as the externals (water pumps, heads, manifolds etc.) were concerned. The only real difficulty was removing the starter motor. I could not get the Bendix past the flywheel. Given this I realised I would have to drop the sump so I followed the advice in the maintenance manual and made a lifting jig that attaches to the inlet manifold flange. I have since been told that the starter motor will come out with a bit of jiggling.

Lifting the engine off the sump