How To: 1944 Chev HUW restoration

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by chris vickery

I think the solution will be alcohol or some other variant. Perhaps av gas LL100.
We’ll figure it out, unless the Greenies absolutely outlaw ICE vehicles, which I somehow doubt, but who knows.

Av gas cut with a little of Bob's pricy naphtha (stirred with a celery stick) might do it. Or get one of those new ready to drop in electric motors. That would put to bed the whole Chev 235 vs. 216 and 6V vs. 12V arguments.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

...using the wreckhouse 'sawzall' method (when you absolutely completely don't care about saving the tire). One down, 3 to go. And if it goes like this one 'sawzall' is my 'tyre remouveure' method of choice for the rest.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

In preparation of the engine coming back I used some of the brown paint I had mixed for the first time. Due to new (very frustrating) rules I can no longer get the chalky matt I wanted and was used on CMPs. This semi gloss alkyd enamel was the best I could find. The first coat dried more glossy than I liked but the second coat using more reducer and a slower application gave me a respectable matt I can live with. I'm quite happy with the No. 2 SCC Brown colour match.

Pics of the engine bay ready for the 216, the painted right door frame and of course the engine as pretty as it gets.

[David Dunlop]

Nice progress, Bruce, in spite of the challenges modern paints seem to throw at us.


David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

Nice progress, Bruce, in spite of the challenges modern paints seem to throw at us.


David

I was talking to a restorer at the Oshawa museum a week or so ago. They are restoring a 1942 HUW that I sold them decades ago. The work in progress had a nice very matt brown paint applied to parts of it. Apparently you can get the new water based paint in any colour you like and as matt as you like. I didn't know this was possible when I mixed my paint and even today I don't like the $180 a gallon price tag, and there's something about a base coat required first?

Still, it's nice to know that if I win the lottery I can get some decent CMP paint.

[David Dunlop]

One of the things I still have to look into for the 52-Set is possibly powder coating the flat No. 2 Brown onto the Carriers No. 4 and Remote receiver Case. Fortunately, still down the road a bit.

David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

One of the things I still have to look into for the 52-Set is possibly powder coating the flat No. 2 Brown onto the Carriers No. 4 and Remote receiver Case. Fortunately, still down the road a bit.

David

The big thing that got me in the past was radio gear wrinkle paint. For a while you could still get wrinkle paint but only in black (and some times it didn't wrinkle too good). I was able in most cases to paint the right colour over the black and it was OK until it got scratched. Sadly I haven't seen wrinkle paint for many years now.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

One of the things I still have to look into for the 52-Set is possibly powder coating the flat No. 2 Brown onto the Carriers No. 4 and Remote receiver Case. Fortunately, still down the road a bit.

David

Dave, what you really want (and me too) is the correct colour of brown wrinkle paint in a rattle can. Oh to dream...

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

...using the wreckhouse 'sawzall' method (when you absolutely completely don't care about saving the tire). One down, 3 to go. And if it goes like this one 'sawzall' is my 'tyre remouveure' method of choice for the rest.

Been there. I used a chain saw . It works well, just be careful. The original Morris CS8 tyres were run flats - no spare wheel was provided.

BTW thanks for the info on the modern water based paints, your engine is looking better than new !