Lynx I MkIII purchase

[Harry Moon]

Originally Posted by Andrew Rowe

Hi Rick, with regards to the axles, I was talking about the axle flange that bolts to the inner hub is 8 bolts on ALL models.
You are talking about the wheel rims, that use 6 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 1 and
8 stud Wheel nuts on Lynx 2. The 6 stud wheel rims are of lighter construction than the 8 stud wheel rims, which use the standard heavier CMP 9.00 x 16 rim on the Lynx 2. With regards to my gearboxes, I have to find a friendly guy ( meaning cheap !) with a CNC centre mill/lathe? to program the line- boring of the holes and the facing off of the surfaces. All hole and face dimensions are that of the standard Ford 4 speed "crash" gearbox. They are excellent quality castings ready for machining, Calling anybody out there with the skill and equipment! , Cheers Andrew

What I understand is that the transmission, remote shifter, clutch and throttle controls on the Lynx1 are all of the shelf from the bus operations at Ford. So a source for a transmission could be an old 36-42 Ford powered Bus.

[Harry Moon]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Transit_Bus

[Alastair Thomas]

My brothers took the Lynx to Normandy last year and had a lot of fun. Right at the end of the week the battery went flat and following a lot of help from fellow enthusiasts, the dynamo was declared u/s.
I took it to my local auto electricians and they tell me that the armature is u/s and needs a rewind. £300 was quoted.
In trying to avoid this expense I dug out all our spare dynamos. One is clearly marked 6v (the Lynx runs on 12 v).
Another has no markings at all and the third looks as though it is a three brush device. It is marked FordQ-5.
My question is can anybody tell me how to tell the difference between a 6v device and a 12v one?
Having accidentally reverse polarised my dynamo on my 1948 Riley once, I wondered why the red light would not go out. I measured the voltage at the output of the dynamo and it was 60v in the wrong direction. Problem solved. However this prompts me to ask what is the difference between 6v and 12v dynamos? The only suggestion I can come up with is that the armature of the 6v one presumably has thicker windings as it is required to supply twice the current (at least in theory).
Does this mean that I can:
a) use a 6v dynamo in a 12v set up, or
b) use the armature from a 6v dynamo in a 12v dynamo?
Kind regards,
Alastair
p.s. what is the tin can seen in the photo below?

[charlie fitton]

The tin can is a voltage cut-out relay.

(Hopefully your helpers checked that)

The 6/12V armature is an interesting question. My gut leans towards yes, But experts actually know.


f

[Andrew Rowe]

I have done many a conversion of generators from 6v to 12 volt. We use the original body and armature of the 6 volt and get a 12volt gen, something like a Lucas C45, 12volt ( The 45 means 4.5" in dia. ) so find one that is roughly the same diameter as your original that you want to keep. Take the field coils from this gen and put them into the 6volt, and you should be able to achieve 12volts. You can normally find these old 12 v Lucas gens. for $5
Find a gen. that matches your dia. , screw pattern for fixing the fields, normally just two field coils, and put them in the correct way. You can test your new rebuild by "motoring up" , but also test on a testbed to make sure you achieving the desired output , Cheers Andrew.

[Alastair Thomas]

Dear Andrew and Charlie.
I was distracted by other projects so have only just seen your helpful replies.
Thank you
Alastair

[Alastair Thomas]

I robbed a 6v dynamo of its armature, tidied up its commutator and rebuilt the dynamo.
I was on my own so could not lift the engine cover by myself but instead used three chain hoists.
The dynamo is now fitted and will be tested in the next day or so.
A couple of points to note:
1. I measured the resistance from the field connection to earth on both the 6v and 12v dynamos and they came out at approximately 4.5 Ohms and 9 Ohms respectively.
2. I am very familiar with the Lucas C45 P dynamo having owned a number of 1940s and 1950 British cars running on 12v. However, I noted during this exercise that one of my 6v (clearly marked as such) dynamos was a Lucas C45P. It must be said that this is the first time I have come across such a beast. It came with a Ford V8 Flat Head engine I bought and, according to my Lucas spares book must have been fitted to one of the early Allard cars.

[Dave Newcomb]

The International Early V8 Ford club has been around 50 yrs, The best web site is Fordbarn.com. Full of experienced fellows. Dave

[Alastair Thomas]

Thanks Dave.
Alastair

[Alastair Thomas]

I have been bedevilled by a slow leak from the front nearside wheel cylinder. We traced this to a poor seal between the flexible pipe banjo union and the cylinder. We replaced the copper washers and all is now OK.

However, in the process we had to remove the brake drum so that the wheel cylinder could be loosened and shifted away from the back plate as the banjo bolt cannot be fully removed without this (an extremely annoying design weakness). Of course the brake shoes also need to be taken off as well.
Annoyed I may have been but it all turned out for the best. The leading shoe had grease on it. As we pondered on this we noticed that there is no oil/grease seal fitted. Referring to the spare parts manual we saw that there should have been one. It is part number C01Q 1190B (National Bearing Co. #35070) and is described a a leather oil seal.

My Lynx, being a Lynx I has the early front axle (6 stud), which I believe may have been fitted to the HUP and maybe others such as the F8.
Can anybody tell me where I can get such a seal or a modern equivalent please?

[Jordan Baker]

This might be some helpful reading from a past mlu thread.

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...d.php?p=254430

[rob love]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186169584700
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18631115390...M25VM3M55F8EZM

Ebay has them, but of course they are available form many other sources by different manufacturers. An old counterperson once told me that the leather seals are far superior (and expensive) compared to the modern neoprene seals.