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#1
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I also made some progress on some larger parts. I’ve been mulling on what to do as I’ve enjoyed doing most of the work myself and experimenting with some chemistry. The critic acid bath and also the lye solution bath. However my set up although great for most parts was not able to take on the larger stuff. I did consider buying and IBC 1000L tote. However I wasn’t keen on having that much acid solution around with younger kids. Although my son at 4 yrs old doesn’t go in the shop without me, I’m also not oblivious that one day he may just make it in there without me. I guess this was rather long winded to say……I sent the parts out to a sandblasting place yesterday afternoon. This morning I got a text msg that everything was done. I was quite pleased with the quality of their work and will be using them again. Their blasting room can handle stuff 25’x12x12.
Anyway once back home with the parts and the kids got their lunches, I was able to spend the afternoon painting everything. Everything was sprayed with my usual POR15 and then once almost dry but still tacky I started doing the final colour coat of KG#3 and gloss white.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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Last of the pictures showing the painted fuel tank box. It didn’t appear Hamilton Bridge painted the inside of this box when new. However I decided that in the interest of long term preservation it would be best to paint it. The box was a huge pain to remove with around 60 bolts holding it in place. It’s not something I wanted to have to redo again at some point
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#3
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Had a helper with me this morning.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#4
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I finally got around to getting the fuel tank put back together, sealed inside and outside and painted. The end panels were welded in place. This took about 5 hours spread over two work periods. I had to use a copper flat bar as a backer due to the sheet metal being thin. In the end I’m quite happy with how the seams turned out. The outside was given a spray down with Purple Zep. I have been using it as a parts degreaser. The inside and outside of the tank was given an acid etch and then left to dry over night. I used a small blow dryer to circulate hot air. This worked great and ensured everything was dry. I then used 90% rubbing alcohol and gave one final washout. The hair dryer was setup again and the inside was quite clean, dry and rust free. The inside was then given a coat of ethanol safe fuel tank liner from the Hirsch product line. The added benefit is that it will seal up any and all seams and pinholes inside the tank.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#5
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The outside was given a spray of POR15 and then a topcoat of the green. Now the tank can sit for a few days for everything to harden up and off gas. Fuel lines, and sending units still need sorting out. But all in good time.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#6
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Fuel were lines made up from the tank to the junction in the floor. I used 1/4” copper nickel line. That stuff is so nice to work with and never rusty. I’m just waiting for some line clips to arrive so that I can secure the lines to the box. Lastly there is a lot of enjoyment when opening up sealed packages of NOS fuel tank caps. I had one original cap but it had suffered from the fire.
Still have to work out the fuel senders. I have both originals. However they were in rough shape with a lot of rust outside and inside. I’m also looking at getting modern ones custom made.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#7
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Looking very good, Jordan!
David |
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