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#451
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Source: https://beeldbank.nimh.nl/foto-s/det...c-dac9b71bad64 and https://beeldbank.nimh.nl/foto-s/det...8-31602a8e6740 Edited to add a third photo made in 1949: Source: http://hdl.handle.net/10648/a8c455da...8-003048976d84 This fourth photo made in 1946 seems to show your "first" type of door lock? Source: http://hdl.handle.net/10648/a89bd9d4...8-003048976d84
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- Last edited by Hanno Spoelstra; 22-07-25 at 11:43. Reason: Edited to add photos |
#452
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Finally made some time to work on the Otter……So off with the doors and off with all the layers of paint….thanks to the needle scaler. Minor repair will be needed on the one door. At some point someone for reasons unknown took a torch to the middle of the door. Lots of layers of paint in its life but underneath the metal is close to pristine.
With regards to welding up the torch damage. Anything in particular I should be mindful of or can I just weld it up with my Mig welder?
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#453
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When it was a army running on conscripts, the Netherlands Army vehicles got copious amounts of paint applied to them "to keep the soldiers busy". I wonder if your Otter was ever fully stripped and repainted in Dutch service, or whether the new layers were painted on top of the wartime paint layers.
Have any other markings besides the "W/T" come up?
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
#454
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When welding armour plate, it is normal to preheat the area. As you are simply using it as filler rather than for bonding purposes, you ought to be ok with just mig welding it. But preheating it wouldn't hurt. Preheating will reduce the chances of warping or cracking.
Perhaps you need to talk with a mat tech from the forces. They get some training on welding armour. But in order to retain the armour strength, I'm pretty sure they would be using arc with special rod. |
#455
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Hanno. I detailed the other wartime markings found on the Otter in previous posts. I’ve located the original hull number, WD number, Allied star on both sides, CMD number on the rear plate, 1st Infantry Division formation sign and Unit sign. There was also remains of the bridge signs. For Dutch service, there was the orange lion on a black circle,Dutch flag, partial Dutch number along with what I believe to be a string of text for the Military Police.
The paint layers reveal the original factory applied KG#3 with nearly matches US OD 34087. Hand applied SCC1a dark brown camouflage, then a complete overspray with what appears to be SCC15. Then another overspray with Dutch dark green. Some spots have a badly sprayed white and then a very heavy/thick coating of more green. There was also a multitude of shop markings by Hamilton Bridge found ghosted in both white and yellow once the paint was removed. To answer your question about being stripped by the Dutch. I believe it to be yes but to a point. As things have come apart I have found near mint KG#3 everywhere. The brighter more vivid Dutch green was found deep inside some assemblies. But once taken apart it was clear things were not completely broken down. An example would be the steering column. Factory is Gm gloss black for the shaft and the wire cover was KG#3. However my example shows the whole thing was over sprayed in white. Then in the engine compartment the steering box has been oversprayed in the Dutch green.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer Last edited by Jordan Baker; 17-10-25 at 15:17. |
#456
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Thanks Rob for the explanation. Last night I ground out the torch cut and then welded it up. I turned my Mig up to the highest setting and it went very well.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#457
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
Source: https://beeldbank.nimh.nl/foto-s/det...d-491b98f9e860
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
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