How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[chris vickery]

Jordan, Its also not too difficult to re-skin the lower section on a 13 cab. Its only 18g metal and does make for a nicer looking cab...

[Jordan Baker]

Its been a long time, but the old truck is finally getting some work done on it. Sadly it had to sit outside for about 5 years or so while I worked on other projects. However I did remove all the small stuff and kept them boxed up inside.

Now that I have my own place and shop, I have been able to start in on it. My plan is to remove components a couple at a time. Clean them up/rebuild/repair and get them primed. Once Im done tearing down the truck to a chassis, Ill start the reassembly of it.

Here is what the cab looks like as of now. Ill try and get some better pictures posted in the next day or so.

[Alex van de Wetering]

Jordan,

Good to see your back at it. Working space and a roof above the project is definately positive for this hobby


Alex

[Jordan Baker]

More disassembly. Pulled off the cab frame work. I also bought a mig welder last week and have begun to try it out. Currently Im just using the fluxcore wire that it came with. I did some welding up of some rust holes in the pedal plate and added the reinforcing strip along the back of it. Now I can't wait to weld more things.

[rob love]

Personally I use the mig with the gas myself. I think it's a cleaner weld. But the welders I worked with in Kandahar told me they actually prefer to use both at the same time: flux with the inert gas.

One thing to watch out for is the polarity of the gun. If you change to inert gas, or go back to flux wire, you have to reverse the polarity just inside the welder where the cable attaches. Otherwise you will pull your hair out trying to get decent welds. Please don't ask me how I know this but suffice to say it's a lesson I have learned twice.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

Once you have tried gas you may never go back. It makes you a better welder.... at least the welds will look better.....cleaner...less grinding.

Also try the "non stick" spray when you are welding a piece that will remain visible..... it keeps the little balls of slags from sticking to your work and speeds up the cleaning job.

Remember to start on a clean piec of steel... or clean it with a flap wheel....MIG is not good at welding on rusted metal.

The more you weld the better you will get.

For tight precision work.... use an automatic shading head piece. I also use a couple of 500 watts lights on a tripod to illuminate the work so it can be seen clearly for the start of your weld. To keep the ceiling lights from reflecting off the inside of your helmet I have pop rivetted a piece of leather about 12 in.x 12 to the upper baqck rim of the mask and it creates a shadow. That by itself allows me to start a clean bead or stiching exactly on the spot needed...... improves my delicate work tremendously. Nest try to simulate spot welding...real easy...... predrill the top piece....sandwich the two metal and weld inside the hole..... by playing with the heat setting and wire speed ( on practice pieces) you can almost eliminate any grinding.

Just watch your hydro bill go up...

Cheers

[Gordon Yeo]

Bob

It's only us old guys that can't see any more and need all the back lighting. Jordan is still a kiddy by comparison, he won't have that problem.

Jordan

Bob has sage advice on the auto darkening helmet. They are really great and might be a help with the new learning curve.

Gord