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#1
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It's way simpler fellas.
If you use laquer thinner, toluene , naptha or plain old gasoline in your gloss paint you will lose the shine when it dries. The quicker the solvent flashes off from the paint the duller the finish. Trust me, this works and is far easier than trying to source flat enamel paints.
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
#2
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Any decent paint shop should be able to supply you with a flattening agent you mix in with the paint and David I would apply it with a rag or spong just like they did during the war.
Jeff |
#3
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Hi David:
As both a modeller and restorer I would stongly advise against using modelling paints on your vehicle. They are usually colour matched to a lighter shade to take into account scale; they use incredibly fine pigments to meet scale needs and they are not robust... all this means that they will fade quickly and and disappoint you in a season or two... this is bitter experience speaking. Jordan's solution is by far the simplist and has the added bonus of putting a protective coating on the markings. Use a matt clearcoat but make sure its compatable with the paint used for your markings. The issue of flat or glossy paint for markings has never bothered us at the S&P as the painters circa '39-'45 used what they could get! There is an interesting tale from the spring of '45 about acquiring paint in France or Belgium after the white-washing of winter '44... lacking paint plants that could make to spec, the camouflage lads in the RE/RCE simply mixed oil drums of gloss black and gloss yellow until it looked OD enough and then dumped in shovel fulls of talcum powder to matt it down... so much for spectrum colour matching! ![]() Units were directed through the camo units and were repainted like a car wash... stay in yer truck mate, we'll paint right over the dirt and oil and then you drive away wet! ![]() ![]() Mike
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Mike Calnan Ubique! ("Everywhere", the sole Battle Honour of the Royal Regiment of Canadian Artillery) www.calnan.com/swords |
#4
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Hi David:
As both a modeller and restorer I would stongly advise against using modelling paints on your vehicle. They are usually colour matched to a lighter shade to take into account scale; they use incredibly fine pigments to meet scale needs and they are not robust... all this means that they will fade quickly and and disappoint you in a season or two... this is bitter experience speaking. Jordan's solution is by far the simplist and has the added bonus of putting a protective coating on the markings. Use a matt clearcoat but make sure its compatable with the paint used for your markings. Stu's trick works as well. The issue of flat or glossy paint for markings has never bothered us at the S&P as the painters circa '39-'45 used what they could get! There is an interesting tale from the spring of '45 about acquiring paint in France or Belgium after the white-washing of winter '44... lacking paint plants that could make to spec, the camouflage lads in the RE/RCE simply mixed oil drums of gloss black and gloss yellow until it looked OD enough and then dumped in shovel fulls of talcum powder to matt it down... so much for spectrum colour matching! ![]() Units were directed through the camo units and were repainted like a car wash... stay in yer truck mate, we'll paint right over the dirt and oil and then you drive away wet! ![]() ![]() Mike
__________________
Mike Calnan Ubique! ("Everywhere", the sole Battle Honour of the Royal Regiment of Canadian Artillery) www.calnan.com/swords |
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