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#1
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Can any one comment please on how easy I am going to find taking the starter motor off my Canadian Mk11* Carrier.
I have removed the Tool Box, hopefully the Fuel Tank does not also need to be removed. |
#2
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Neil, I think you will have to remove the tank, the starter is held on by two studs which pass the complete length of the starter and hold it all together so be careful not to let it all fall to bits on removal, I regret the day when I first removed one of these and received a blunt trauma to my left eye.
be careful. kevin.
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2pdr Tank Hunter Universal Carrier 1942 registered 11/11/2008. 3" Mortar Universal Carrier 1943 registered 06/06/2009. 1941 Standard Mk1 stowage Carrier, Caunter camo. 1941 Standard Mk1 stowage Carrier, light stone. 10 cwt wartime mortar trailer. 1943 Mk2 Daimler Dingo. 1943 Willys MB. 1936 Vickers MG carrier No1 Mk1 CMM 985. |
#3
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Neil, you should be able to get it off leaving all that in place and just removing the lower engine pannel by the statrer, remember the starter is forward of the fuel tank etc. its not to bad a job, i have done it on the side of the road before now.
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Shaun Hindle Morris C8 Ford GPW jeep 1945 Morris 1000 (ex mil) SAS LSV Harley Davidson MT 350 motor cycle Universal carrier MK 1*1943 Ronson (under restoration) Universal carrier MK 2* 1944 (Puddle Jumper HSK 345) Ferret MK 1/1 1956 Ferret MK 2/4 1958 CVR(T) Scorpion 432 MK2 Daimler MK1 armoured car 1943 (winner best wheeled armour W&P show 2011) Daimler Dingo MK2 1944 (awaiting restoration, aquired 11/12/2011) Fordson WOT 3 D 1940 (awaiting restoration ) |
#4
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I didn't know you had a MK2 Neil? Send me some pictures sometime please.
I was getting ready to remove the starter on mine a few months back. I was also hoping to get away without taking the tank out. It looked possible! Which Shaun has confirmed. As you might remember. Mine is fitted with a 12V system and remote solenoid for the starter. It was in fact the solenoid that was the problem. Ron |
#5
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Ron I have had my Mk11* for a long time but it has never moved out the garage. It must be one of the most complete in the country if you still need to measure up for anything.
It must be a very tight fit to actually withdraw it and trying to work out where the bolts are and how to get on to them was putting me off. |
#6
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Neil I'll have to come to Trowbridge one day!
For what's involved! It might be just as easy to remove the tank anyway. After squirming about in the confined areas of a carrier I always end up suffering with my gammy limbs. Ron |
#7
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Hi Neil,
I guess the strength in the way the starter is held ( I thought the same) is that it is pulled into the bell housing and locates in the recess, the screws therefore only really hold it in. Heck of job though working upside down. I have been adjusting my control rods on the T16 for the rear steering controls. Every time I re emerge my family wonder what has happened to me as my eyes go rather bulging from working upside down. The restoration of my T16 has given me more of a workoout than any session in the GYM. Everytime I get in the thing to do a job I find the tool I need is outside or on the other side of the engine bay. I cannot tell you how many times I have got in and out of it! |
#8
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I am still nursing the bruises of performing all sorts of unnatural contortions to gain access to where I needed to get. I also ended up finding I was crushing something painfull at one stage.
The bolts were not done up particularly tight when I removed it and fear of striping the threads restricted the pressure I put on them this time. Can anyone confirm where the thin wire goes to which also attaches on the starter motor terminal? The driver hand boook does not include a deatailed wiring diagram. |
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