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#1
03-08-12, 02:58
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another CAN m37 resto
Hello friends.
I joined the forum recently while looking for information and such. I don't have a lot of military vehicle experience , but I do have a lot of restoration and general vehicle knowledge and would love to help out any I can. I've started restoring ( with some modifications) a 1952 m37 CAN I've got it stripped to the bare frame and plan on blasting and painting everything in pieces. Although I am going to modify it somewhat for better driveability, (I plan to drive it extensively) I would really like to keep the colour "period correct" and for the most part , the looks. I'm having a real time finding a paint code or number to get paint mixed. I know that we can get American colours from American suppliers and I can get the current NATO green colour but I would prefer the original 1952 CAN colour. I have a piece of original coloured metal at my dupont paint supplier and he's trying to match it or mix something real close. I'm sure others have had this problem and wondered how they resolved it. Thanks for your time and input and this great forum Steve  Also I have some parts left from a m43 (?) ambulance I will be listing as soon as I get some pictures taken. 
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#2
03-08-12, 05:04
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You could mix a bit of black into the US 24087 colour. Or just use the 24087 colour and it will darken in about a year or two on it's own.
I have several gallons of the Cdn military semi-gloss IRR paint in the basement, but the bottom half is pretty thick now.
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#3
06-08-12, 18:19
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Hello if you think about replacing the old diffs by new type to drive it extensively it will be hard to do ! I did it once on one of my M37 the rear is easy but the front is diffrent from the new types you will need to narrow the diff tube and buy a specific axle to fit in it or you will need to change the shakel to fit on the leaf spring pads .The distance center to center on the old diff leaf spring pads should be 29+/- and the new 32+/-.
__________________
1953 Dodge M37 cargo 1953 Dodge M37 radio truck 1954 Dodge M37 costom 1954 Dodge M152 communication If it doesn't exist anymore make your own
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#4
06-08-12, 18:37
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I uesed 24087 on my M37CDN. It is a nice colour of paint but as Rob says. it does darken with age. It is a nice semi gloss.
After I did a complete resto on mine, I often contemplated doing another for better driveability. I would suggest the power steering conversion, 318cid chrysler or a 3,9l diesel, disc brake conversion, dual stage master cylinder, lock out front hubs and regear the differentials. Remember, the wink link on these truck is the rear axles. Do not think that dropping a big block into it and you will have a monster off road truck. You will have a disabled truck with broken axles. Mine drove very well stock, if you enjoy 45mph. I believe by doing a re-gear you end up with a gain of approx 7-8mph. You also cut the engine rpm down. You get another gain with a modest change in tire sizes, one up from the stock 9.00-16, maybe another 7-8mph. A few guys I know have done these mods and have very nice driving trucks that will crusie along all day long at 60mph. You are also at a time where there are lots of parts around, both NOS and repro, especially sheet metal. I have to fabricate much of my sheet metal replacement panels because at the time they were simply not available. John Bizal at Midwest Military is a good source.
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#5
09-08-12, 18:35
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mods
Thanks for the input guys. I have done the 4 wheel disc brake and dual master cylinder mods, also power steering. I put swinging pedals from under the dash to get more foot room. I was planning on a v8 conversion as well as they will rev better for longer. I was planning on using 11-20 tires and have started mating rims together for this.(pics later)
So your saying these axles are weak? The inner axle shaft? ring and pinion? spiders? Rear ? front? Please explain further before I go much further with stock stuff. Again, I apreciate all the help and input. Steve Oh, and I have got "colour your world " to match the colour in epoxy primer and 2 part urethane top coat , Picking it up tomorrow morning.
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#6
09-08-12, 20:10
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The rear left axle shaft (the long one) is notoriously weak. They were weak in their service life, and are weaker now with wear and age. Apparently some of the replacements may be a bit better, but I have no experience in them.
I broke mine one time trying to get across an icy intersection. It suddenly caught and shot across, but the axle shaft broke at the same moment. The Shilo museum also just recently had to replace a shaft. Not sure how it got broken.
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