Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Things to check on Windscreen Hinge:

Some of them had a soft gasket between the hinge and the frame that moves the hinge out about 1/16 of and inch.

There is a notch in the hinge fore the wiper shaft if the notch in the inner and outer don't line up this can cause a problem.

Are the screw heads that attach the hinge to the frame sticking up in the hinge when it is closed. Cheers Phil

Yeah, I discovered the bit about lining up the hinge with the wiper opening. That's a bit odd isnt it? Anyhow, that didn't fix the problem.

I just checked the screw heads on upper frame. They don't hit anywhere, so it's not that either.

I'm curious about the 'gasket'. Wouldn't that mean the hinge piece would move backwards & forwards during use? Maybe it's meant to, to overcome the problem I am now having? To be honest, I don't fancy that as a cure. I have several other hinge tracks I can try, and failing that, I can 'persuade' the hinge to see things my way . That's a last resort though.

Bought the rubber for outer edge weather seal which is perfect fit, as well as rubber for the glass recess, that I will need to modify slightly. I'll be doing that once I finish writing this.

If you don't hear from me any more, it means I have probably bled to death shaving a little off the glass seal rubber

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Hopefully that makes a bit more sense than my previous post. It's all about the profile of a blitz chassis rail, which tapers from the midsection towards the rear section.

This was discussed in a thread on a chopped Ford for sale in Belgium:

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Alex, AFAIK both the long and short chassis had tapered rear ends - see attached pics from Keith's web page www.oldcmp.net/Lloyd_Cab12_FGT_1.html

Is seems the Belgian one is indeed a shortened F60L, the chassis being lobbed before the point where the side rails taper upwards.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

I'll be reinstalling the windscreens on my HUP this week so I'll have a chance to see what could be causing the problem. If my memory is correct the windows should swing down so that the outer "T" gasket is nicely seated and the frame is flush with the outside frame.

Did you have the two hinge sides apart at the same time? My thinking is that if the inner or outer parts got exchanged that could be causing a problem as then might not be seating well together.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Phil,

I suspect that is the problem. Frame and hinge parts are from two different sets. The original hinge for this frame is quite poor, as a previous owner had taken to it with a grinder to grind off the bolt heads attaching it to the window support frame.

I would not be happy to use that damaged piece as it is, and repair might not be a viable option. On Saturday I will try and find a suitable replacement amongst my parts stores. I think there are another 2 or 3 which may be usable. At very least, the current hinge may be good for the driver side frame.

Just when you think things are going well.................stuff happens .

Wouldn't it be grand if parts fit well.......................or at all, in some cases like this?

At least the rubber set is ready for installing. I finished these last night, while listening to television.

[Private_collector]

Any thoughts on best option for rubber glue I can use to join the corners of these external weather seals?

The rubber in the glass channel will be self sealing & won't require glue.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Attachment 50010
Any thoughts on best option for rubber glue I can use to join the corners of these external weather seals?

This advice may be a little out of date, but 40 years ago I used the glue from my bicycle puncture repair kit! I think it was called "vulcanizing glue" because it actually melted/dissolved the rubber, as opposed to contact glue which can be peeled off hard rubber, leaving it unmarked. It was very effective on inner tubes, just as good as a proper vulcanizing patch, ie. the type with the flammable impregnated cardboard stuff you lit with a match. It helped a lot to rough up the puncture area with coarse sandpaper, so I probably did that to the cut ends of the window frame rubber too. Anyway I recall it worked quite well, and the glue joint seems to be holding in this pic. That's me eating the sandwich, with Keith's girlfriend out for a ride in my new blitz, while Keith rode in the sigvan. No doubt she preferred the Ford!

I'm sure there'd be a lot more in the way of rubber glue available nowadays, but the same thing would hold true I imagine, ie. get something that actually dissolves the rubber surfaces, to produce a weld joint as opposed to an adherent joint.

[Private_collector]

Yeah, thats the sort of thing I would like to be using.

And I remember those vulcanising patches for tyre tubes, that you put into a clamp, then set it alight. The heat would weld the patch to the tube. What ever happened to those? Perhaps in these enlightened times, they are no longer available, in case someone got burnt fingers but would insist on blaming the manufacturer rather than accept responsibility for their actions!

I fear there may actually be LESS better glues today, because of potential risk of misuse etc.

P.S: I hope you have a better hair-cut these days . You looked like the proverbial '5th Beetle'.

[Private_collector]

Do these look like Ford CMP tie rod ends???

[Cameron Reed]

An option would be loctite I think it is 420 very handy and strong, most bearing places should have some. It is used to make oddball o-rings from round or square cord, I have used many times and have never had any failures someone at the bearing shop should be able to clarify the product, if you keep it in the fridge it helps to keep for a good time.
enjoying the ride so far keep up the good work

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Attachment 50024
Do these look like Ford CMP tie rod ends???

No, the CMP tie rod ends are threaded over the tie rod, not into it.

[Private_collector]

Oh what a bastard! I thought I was onto two of these really cheap.

On a different note, I have bought several types of glues to test for jointing the corners of outer window frame rubber seal. The best found so far is Loctite Super Glue 'Control'. Touted to be "Strongest Ever". Over coming few days, I will be testing the strength of the bond I made this morning, with a number of tests of flexability, resistance to water and to heat.

Would you believe that the parts I have painted thus far have used 9 litres of top coat? At $67.00 for 4Lt tin, I don't begrudge using it either.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

P.S: I hope you have a better hair-cut these days . You looked like the proverbial '5th Beetle'.

How about this one Tony? The 5th Masters Apprentice....?

[Tony Wheeler]

occasionally I used hair product ("HD90" I think it was called)

[Tony Wheeler]

Here I seem to be trying the feral look.

Of course, nowadays I just wish I had some hair!

[Private_collector]

After playing around with the jointed piece of rubber, I think the Loctite supa glue will do just fine. I have been flexing the join off & on all day, and it has held together very well. Not a sign of failure along any part of the glued edges. I would never have thought this kind of glue would be as effective as this. I didn't even prep the surfaces to be glued before I stuck em together.

When it comes time to glue the real thing, I will rough up both surfaces and clean with alcohol just prior to doing the surgery.

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

occasionally I used hair product ("HD90" I think it was called)

You used to get a discount on that at Shell didn't you?

[Private_collector]

At present, it is looking very unlikely that I will get any outdoors work done today. Light drizzle combined with low temperatures will bring any painting to a halt, I fear.

[cliff]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

At present, it is looking very unlikely that I will get any outdoors work done today. Light drizzle combined with low temperatures will bring any painting to a halt, I fear.

Yes them darned Mexicans sending their Melbourne Weather up here like this!!!!!!!!

[Private_collector]

The rain didn't stop all day, but I really wanted to get the windscreen frame painted, so I can insert the glass during the week. So, I put the cars out for a 'natural' wash, and set-up work under the carport.

I was worried that the paint may 'blush' in the low temperatures, so each coat of paint was quickly followed with a few minutes of exposure to heat lamp (well it's a floodlight, but it's bloody hot up close).

The windscreen rubber took far longer to make than I had planned on. Nothing new there. The rubber seal was slightly too thick for the window channel it will go into, so once attached to the screen, I had to pare it down quite a bit. This involved some hand sanding to taper the side so it would 'seat' in the frame. I followed this up with some additional paring with a hobby knife, where high spots remained.

It's obvious from this photo that the trimming of screen rubber was quite labor intensive. Pity I couldn't just hit it with an orbital sander. I used 40grit on a broad file instead. There is still no guarantee that I have got the job done to extent required. If not good enough, it will all have to come off and be started again from scratch, with a fresh piece of rubber. The thing that worries me is the effects that corrosion has had on the width of window channel. Some internal rusting must have occured, and the track is slightly thinner inside diameter in places. This could snag the screen as it's lowered into the main part of the frame.

If I had the luxury of painting yesterday, the screen would be in now.

Got the correct size rubber vacuum tubing yesterday, in town. Now I need to find photos that show where the tubing runs to, and try to find a 'T' piece connector. Ebay again, I think

[Private_collector]

Would anyone have a rough guess as to how much one end of a F60 chassis would weigh?

I have a trailer axle/wheels to put under one end, for when I move the bare chassis to/from the sandblasters, and was thinking about using a solid rubber trailer jockey wheel at the other end. That would give a degree of lateral manouverability while at the blasters. The chassis will need to be wheeled from blasting booth to the engineering shop floor, where they will make & attach the rear cross member.

I was originally intending to get a second axle setup for the other end, but thought a jockey wheel might be worth considering, provided it can handle the weight of one end of the chassis!

What do you think?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

Just the chassis either end 1/2 ton, but start adding parts like springs, axles and wheel assemblies it jumps up real fast.

Doing my C60L I could pickup one end of the frame with the springs with the light chain fall. Rated at 1000 lbs but could not pickup either axle with brake drums and wheels fitted.

Winch assembly is also very heavy.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

I was hoping it would be something like that. It will be just the chassis. Everything else will be off by then.

If we get some sunlight and dry conditions this weekend, I plan to remove the transfer case, then the front end, leaving only the rear axle. All going well, that end will get two of the adjustable jockey wheels bolted onto it for transport purposes. I guess they could also be used for levelling that end of chassis, when the guys are attaching a new cross member. That function most likely won't be required because they have stands used for that.


Oh, I nearly forgot. While looking at the transfer case last weekend, I see there is an output for a winch. Didn't notice that before!

[Private_collector]

The first of the window frames is now finished. I decided to put the glass in tonight, in case I broke it and needed to rethink the rubber seal technique. Fortunately it didn't break and went in smoothly. Considerably better than I was expecting.

Did have a little help though. I applied new grease to the parts of the rubber that would be required to slide down into the lower part of the screen frame. Without that, the rubber would have been displaced badly while sliding in.

I'll have to find something useful to do tomorrow now

The transfer case has to come out this weekend, and ideally, front end to be removed as well. I have booked a weeks holiday for late July. That is when the chassis will go for blasting.

P.S: I just couldn't get the upper left corner join to go together perfectly. Perhaps the rubber is preventing a proper fit. I might back the bolts off a little and give a bit of encouragement with a rubber mallet. Failing that...............guess thats how its gonna fit!

[Private_collector]

Does anyone know of a supplier for correct steering wheel to suit Ford CMPs?

I have been told once that some of the Ford tractors used same s/wheels on vehicles of same period.

Is this correct, or just another load of BS????

[Private_collector]

Passenger side windscreen has been installed back on the truck. Well, when I say installed 'back', I mean installed on my truck, not its original truck. That was scrapped some time ago by the owner and same fellow gave me this frame.

It's good to see that FINALLY something fits as it's supposed to, without major surgery to adapt. The only 'jiggery' needed was a minor mashing of the hinge piece, so the window would close well. It worked, and has given no problems since.

The only concern is the window adjustment slides/rods sit high above the line of the window support panel, and I hope the extra height of the cab roof is sufficient that they dont touch there. I guess Ford knew what they were doing, but time will tell.

My very great thanks to David DeWeese for the set of window adjustment/locking parts!

All those parts were used on this window, so if anyone has another set of 2 slides, hex shaped spacers & the tightening wheels, I would be very interested in buying them so I can do the other side. Even the hex bits and adjustment wheels would be good. I have a couple of ratty slide bits that I may be able to weld up & repair.

[Keith Webb]

On Australian cabs the inner pair were actually levers, so if you can find some of them you can save the extra sliding one for the other side. The other thing to notice is the Aussie outer ones are longer allowing the screens to open to 90 degrees.

[Private_collector]

Cheers for that info, Keith.

I will take off the one wrong side tomorrow, and start looking for those levers. I don't recall seeing any so far, but then I wasn't really looking for these bits and may have overlooked them while ogling other parts.

That will teach me.........using loc-tite putting them on today

[Euan McDonald]

When looking for the levers Ford and Chev are different. Ford are flat were they bolt to the frame and Chev have a slight relief to accommodate the slight radius of the frame. The pivot length is also different between the F & C as the mounting point on the side of the screen is at different heights. The fixing bolts are slot head machine screw and NOT phillip head.

[Private_collector]

Can't get the slot head screws anywhere local. This is the third time I have wanted slots and not been able to get them. There was even one occasion when I waited for two weeks while the shop checked suppliers and advised that there were none in stock with their wholesalers. Interestingly, at that time, I got on the internet and bought them myself from a company in Brisbane (total of 2hrs away). They shipped them straight to me within a few days. Then forgot to send the nuts with the order and I had to wait for those too.

I am now making do with what can be sourced easily and when I want it. That would have been a big deal for me some time ago, but now i'm more interested in making progress than having annoying delays because I wanted absolute originality. There are a number of things that will never be exact...........the bolts & screws are just two examples of the many!

Incidentally, the wipers will be blasted & painted green, at least.

[hrpearce]

Tony this is what I have. As you can see it's rusry and one nut has a broken stud in it. As Euan said the leavers will require work.