#31
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Thanks for the info Guy and yes I will have a closer look but the belt is nice and tight with no slippage.
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#32
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Had a look at the adjuster assembly and I have 15mm give in the belt which is about right, to have any less would put pressure on the bearings.
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#33
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Quote:
In my experience I would say the belt is too narrow and not driving on the flanks but on its inner face and it will be prone to slipping. The outside of the belt should be nearly flush with edge of pulley. Take a photo of crank pulley so we can see how belt sits. I think this is what is causing your problem, belt slip.
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#34
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belts
I discovered that modern V belts don't always match well with the older type pullies. There is a standard for V belts that's been around many years , the "B" type is commonly seen in older machinery.
My series 1 Land Rover is always a problem, finding the correct belt . I have fitted a modern belt that functions but somehow the modern belts don't quite fit correctly, the new belt makes a squeeling sound , as if something is rubbing . I believe the series 1 club in the UK had a special batch of belts made . Yes I agree with the comments, that C8 belt isn't sitting as it should be , the profile is too narrow or the "v" angle isn't correct.
__________________
1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#35
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Quote:
You are correct on the belt V-angles. The standard A,B,C etc used on machinery and general engineering is still around and a lot of vehicle and engine makers used them, but, there was another British Standard for Automotive belts with a slightly different angle, no longer available now, I find that Austin, Morris and Rootes group engines were on this standard, and probably many others. The replacement belts are a compromise, and usually touch on outer edge, but will bed in without issues. Looking at Paul's photo, as he was unaware that the pump pulley was adjustable, then I assume it is still set for an old belt, and it is the crank pulley that will define that. It would be impossible to fit the correct width belt without opening up the top pulley first, so my reckoning is the pump and fan was not turning fast enough as the belt was driving on the inner circumference and losing grip at times. The new belt needs to fit the crank pulley and likely will stand proud by about a millimetre or so, not sure if it would be a B or a C section.
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#36
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Lots of info to take in and hopefully the picture has uploaded, what kind of fan-belt do you suggest Richard? Difficult to find old belts these days, I will take it off tomorrow after the Anzac service and will go ahead with replacing the individual bits as they are worn. Spring I should have an answer on Wednesday for replacement.
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#37
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Paul, have you checked for a head gasket leak or cracks as a possibility for blowing the water out?
__________________
Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#38
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Quote:
You need to determine the width of the top of the Vee on the crankshaft pulley. If approx. 16mm, then try a B section belt, but if 22mm then use a C section belt. The supplier should be familiar with B and C section belts as it is an International designation. As for length, you will need to open up your pump pulley and when belt is fitted the sheaves are adjusted up and engine turned over a few times, then recheck adjustment. When the belt reached the top of the vee on pump pulley it is near end of adjustment. From what I have read here you fitted the belt without opening the adjustable pulley, is that is correct? A Morris C8 owner might know the replacement belt number. This might be of interest: http://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/m...urope-2004.pdf
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#39
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Richard and Lynn thanks for the info and I replaced the head gasket as there was a problem with "water" ingestion due to no4 spark plug being very loose when I first got the truck, on stripping the head off I found two gaskets fitted but I have replaced them with a copper gasket and there is no water in the oil or blowing out the exhaust so all seems good. When I replaced the water pump and belt I didn't realise where the adjustment was so even though it was a tight fit I got the belt on, I will replace the belt with your spec's Richard and have an auto spares place I use that employs people over 21. The coolant blows out on reaching running temp so I believe the problem to be a combination of all the things you guy's have mentioned so as I have said spring, filler funnel and threaded lock ring will be replaced with new and I will search out a replacement belt.
Regards and will keep you all posted Paul |
#40
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Thanks Richard and it looks like a C section belt I need, by the looks of the belt removed it has been rubbing on the sides as you say and the length can be longer to take up the adjustment, will source another tomorrow.
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#41
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My daughter says when you go into a parts store, ALWAYS ASK FOR THE OLD GUY!!
__________________
1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#42
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She is correct in that Dave and we have an Auto pro store that only employs people over 25 so you have half a chance, the one thing I hate is when they say "whats it off" so you haven't connected, I will probably get roasted alive and hung drawn and quartered for saying when we go to the check-out at the supermarket I always choose the ugly check out chick but they are better than the eye candy ones. Shouldn't have said it but there it is.
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#43
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New C type fan belt fitted and have to wait a few weeks for the new spring. Hope its the right one.
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#44
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There is a modern equivalent which i used on my C8.
I shall look it up when i am at home again. Rgds. Sjoerd
__________________
1943 Morris Commercial C8 4x4 GS 1939 Morris 8 E series staffcar (In Restoration) 1936 DKW RT98 1936 DKW SB200 Wehrmacht motorcycle (SOLD) 1959 DKW Hummel Type 113 moped (In Restoration) 1944 Canadian Generator/Chorehorse Pegasus Oldtimers, specialised in maintenance and repairs of pre1950 (military) oldtimers. |
#45
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Thanks Svdwal this one I got from the local auto shop, they had the one fitted which was a V and as I said to them I needed a C type, always good to get one that works and I have a few weeks prior to getting the new spring so no rush and thanks. Adjustment seems good for the 13/4 between belts but I am not sure on getting the pump pulley too far up the pulley as it would be to tight.
Paul |
#46
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Quote:
I thought it would be a C section belt. You don't want the belt too far up the pump sheaves, this will allow for adjustment later on when belt beds, in an stretches a bit. Hope this might help the problem, as I have come across similar circumstances. regards, Richard
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#47
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Thanks Richard as this thing has been developing I am seeing were the V or C makes the difference, it will take a while to bed in with adjustment along the way. The spring is the biggest worry as I spoke with the company rep a couple of days ago and wasn't impressed with him but I may be wrong time will tell I suppose but they were recommended.
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#48
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Hello, there is a person go has remade these radiator springs , you can find them on E-bay.
Guy. |
#49
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Quote:
To be perfectly honest, that Air-Lock system has no bearing on water blowing out. It only comes into operation when the cap is removed. This locks off air/expansion space in the header tank, so that you cannot put too much water in the radiator, thus weakening the anti-freeze, and also if overfilled it would blow out. So, providing you have enough water to cover the top hose fitment, then I would say you should be good to go and see how it behaves. You will find with a lot of these non-pressurised systems that if you put too much water in, there will be an initial blow out of water, then it will settle down, it is knowing to what point you fill to. regards, Richard
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#50
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Thanks for the info Guy and Richard, the spring is in Brisbane so I will need to wait for that. Hopefully I will get some movement on it next week, Guy is the spring on ebay under a particular category? I had a surf around but couldn't find anything.
Richard interesting you say "enough water to cover the hose fitting" as I have only filled till just covering the core which is below the hose fitting? |
#51
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Quote:
If your water level in the rad is below the inlet for the top hose, there will not be circulation. The level needs to be up to the top hose on the rad to get cycling of the coolant. regards, Richard
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#52
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Skip to main content
eBay Enter your search keyword Advanced Hello guy. Daily Deals Sell Help & Contact My eBay Expand My eBay Back to search results |Listed in category: Vehicle Parts & Accessories > Military Vehicle Parts Picture Information BEDFORD-MW-OX-OY-Military-Radiator-Neck-Spring Mouse over image to zoom Have one to sell? Sell it yourself Details about BEDFORD MW OX OY (Military) Radiator Neck Spring Email to friends Share on Facebook - opens in a new window or tab Share on Twitter - opens in a new window or tab Share on Pinterest - opens in a new window or tab | Add to Watch list Seller information 45717dauntless (1416 Feedback score: 1416) 99.3% Positive Feedback Follow this seller See other items Item information Condition: New Time left: Time left: 3d 02h (09 May, 2017 20:45:26 BST) Quantity: 6 available £12.50 Buy it now Add to basket Add to Watch list Add to collection 1 watching Zero customs charges Long-time member Postage: £4.30 Standard Delivery | See details Item location: Halifax, West Yorkshire, United Kingdom Posts to: Europe, United States Delivery: Estimated between Thu. 11 May. and Mon. 15 May. Seller ships within 2 days after receiving cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab . help icon for estimated delivery date - opens a layer Payments: PayPal Visa/MasterCard, American Express Processed by PayPal , Postal order/Banker's draft | See payment information Returns: 14 days refund, buyer pays return postage | See details Protection: Money Back Guarantee | See details - opens in a new window or tab People who viewed this item also viewed Feedback on our suggestions NOS OEM SOLEX 35RZFAIPO LE55 Carburetor Amoured BEDFORD MW OX OY HUMBER MORRIS NOS OEM SOLEX 35RZFAIPO LE55 Car… £229.99 + £24.00 Report item - opens in a new window or tab Description Postage and payments eBay item number: 382037029523 Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. Item specifics Condition: New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging is ... Read more about the condition Brand: Bedford Country/Region of Manufacture: United Kingdom Questions and answers about this item No questions or answers have been posted about this item. Ask a question - opens in a new window or tab Sponsored links This is a private listing and your identity will not be disclosed to anyone except the seller. Back to search results Return to top More to explore: Bedford Radiator Accessories, Bedford Diecast Tanks and Military Vehicles, Bedford Diecast Tanks & Military Vehicles, Corgi Bedford Diecast Tanks & Military Vehicles, Oxford Bedford Truck Diecast Tanks & Military Vehicles, Bedford Truck Dinky Diecast Tanks & Military Vehicles Additional site navigation About eBay Announcements Community Safety Centre Resolution Centre Seller Centre Partner Centre VeRO: Protecting Intellectual Property Policies Help & Contact Site Map Copyright © 1995-2017 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice |
#53
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or to make it easier;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEDFORD-MW...0AAOSw~gRV102K
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#54
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Thanks for the info and purchase of a spring made just in case the Brisbane mob don't come good, the subject of the coolant level we have talked about and I have experimented with for a while but will make sure the header tank has sufficient in when I get all the bits back in and start up.
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#55
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Just an update on whats going on with my Morris C8, I await a spring from either the UK or Brisbane. I am having two manufactured in Brisbane and also bought a spring on ebay, while this is going on I have re-tightened the cylinder head as the manual has no torque setting so its down to elbow click and your elbow clicks different on days with a Y in them. This may account for any pressure in the cooling system as I have had half a turn to a full turn in the head nuts, I have also purchased a head gasket sealant that I will introduce when all the radiator components are in. I hope all this works.
Paul |
#56
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An update on where this radiator problem is at, firstly I had a few weeks off for medical stuff but I was back on the problem yesterday having had the NOS spring from the UK. It was just as bad so I thought I had better go back to square one firstly removing the radiator and check the water pump, pump was fine but the radiator seems to be blocked. I filled it with water off the truck and nothing came out the bottom hose, tried flushing up and again nothing came to the top. It would seem I have been heating the coolant in the top of the engine and having no flow through the radiator it's been blowing out the top. A bit like the thermostat not opening but I don't have one, I will try some flushing compound tomorrow. This C8 was sitting in a museum for a number of years prior to me purchasing it so probably only water in but time will tell.
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#57
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Update, the radiator was indeed blocked so having got that back yesterday fitted it and while only idling for half an hour it only spat out a few drops and at switch off pushed out a little bit more, maybe I over filled but I know the champ does the same when only idling then switching off. Going overseas for a about 6 weeks so will give it a run when I get back. I only put water in plus a bit of Wet-Wetter so no great shakes for the paint-work.
I also installed a new stainless spring and the new filler funnel I made so all was new. Paul |
#58
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update on my Morris C8
It's been a while since I updated on my overheating problems with the C8, I am just back from 6 weeks in Canada so here goes.
Original problem being the coolant being pushed out of the radiator so after lots of investigation/repair and finally having the radiator stripped and cleaned, today I checked for combustion gas in the coolant and whilst doing this with the cap off I watched the coolant rising and pushing out of the radiator filler, once it was finished rising the level settled down just below the filler tube. The engine was running while this was going on so I carried on with the combustion gas check of which all was clear, I replaced the radiator cap and had a run up and down the garden with no ill effects. I will take the truck for a run out on the road tomorrow and hopefully all will be well. Paul |
#59
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Paul, (not knowing what you have checked already) is there an overflow/vent line on your radiator? If so, could it be plugged or kinked, and thus not "breathing" as things expand and contract?
Good luck with your road test!
__________________
1953 M37 CDN 1953 M38A1 CDN 1967 M38A1 CDN2 |
#60
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Hi Wayne and I am unaware of any overflow/vent pipe, it being an air lock system which is something I have never come across till getting the C8. I have tried just about everything to get the truck to run without the coolant overflowing after twenty minutes driving and the only thing left would be to strip the water pump to see if the drive turbo is intact, I also don't have a thermostat fitted which would I suppose make a bit more pressure in the system but in Queensland the need for a thermostat isn't there. Let you know how I go with the road run.
Paul |
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