Sixty-seven pattern Jeep progress log - Page 2

Grant Bowker · #31 16-03-09, 03:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh

For Alex Blair - standby for "Jeff" to call wanting to buy ordnance parts and shop manuals for the M38A1. $$ $$ $$

After a year in the hands of Joel Bellerose in the wilds of Arnprior, the collection of manuals that was Alex Blair's is now in my posession and I will be happy to talk/e-mail "Jeff" about (Canadian) Jeep manuals.

maple_leaf_eh · #32 09-04-09, 00:00

My garage man got the engine turning over and running. But the fuel pump is not moving fuel in the lines. The lines are flowing, but not getting fuel past the pump. He smoked out his garage too from the overrich mixture too!

Sounds like a bad diaphragm ...

Alex Blair (RIP) · #33 09-04-09, 01:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker

After a year in the hands of Joel Bellerose in the wilds of Arnprior, the collection of manuals that was Alex Blair's is now in my posession and I will be happy to talk/e-mail "Jeff" about (Canadian) Jeep manuals.

hi Grant..
No call from the varlet yet..maybe Terry can give us a number or get him to call us for some manuals...You 'da man....U...AL...!!

rob love · #34 09-04-09, 20:26

When a jeep (or any vehicle for that matter) sits for any length of time, the little check valves can either dry out or some of the particulate may keep them from sealing. The jeep has 6 of those little check valves in the pump if I recall, and the failre of even one will cause the pump not to pump. I found that by wetting the pump with some fuel (or priming the pump would be the better term) the pumps would normally work again.

When they were selling the M38A1s at auction in the mid 80s, I got one jeep with an almost brand new engine for only $1100 because they could not get it to run during the auction. A bit of gas from a squirt can into the pump quickly cured that and it was a beatiful running jeep. Replacing the stale gas made it run even better.

maple_leaf_eh · #35 05-05-09, 04:20

Tried to short circuit past the fuel pump tonight with a Coke bottle of fresh gas. I'm beginning to believe the last owner cross-connected a fuel line and a vaccuum line. There is no draw, and he has an inline fuel filter on something that just looks out of place.

Retsarge · #36 20-05-09, 02:19

Hi,
I own M38A1Cdn2, Serial Number 7105 06879, CFR 67-07832, It was manufactured in November 1967. So the cutoff for starting CFR 68 must be farther back behind me.
Richard

maple_leaf_eh · #37 10-06-09, 04:52

The M38A1 CDN3 has: new plugs, new coil, new condensor, new rotor, new little rubber washers between the distributor cap and the cover (packed in Oct 1951), new fuel pump, freshly charged batteries. The wires spark. The plugs spark. The carb flows. The fuel lines flow. The gas is fresh. The only weak part is the starter isn't turning fast enough to kick over. I've tried ether spray, choke, stomping the accelerator, and turning it with the feeds back at neutral. But it just won't kick!

Short of starting under compression, what else can I do? Is there some electrical test I can do to see if it is getting 24v vs 12v?

maple_leaf_eh · #38 26-06-09, 00:59

Well, I towed it down the block to a now abandoned hospital grounds and tried starting under compression. No luck! But it does backfire. Merde!

I had it in the driveway afterwards and a half-ton pulled up. The driver dismounts and approaches with the fixed eye gaze, swaggering rolling gait of a gunfighter. Eyeballing the Jeep.

Smart alec me sez, 'You're not from these parts mister. You must be here for the Jeep.'

After trading one-liner questions, 'fifty-three?', 'seventy', 'runs?', 'nope', 'good shape?', 'yes and no', etc. We introduced ourselves and it turns out I've corresponded with the fellow over parts. He wasn't selling, but offered to stop by for the next few nights to help. I'll take any free advice given.

All 4 spark plugs and leads fire nicely. Gap tested and put into spec.

He brought a compression tester one night. #1 is 90 psi dry/96 psi with oil; #2 is 60/96, #3 is 110/114, and #4 is 90 and 104. The manual says 120 psi preferred.

Another night he interpreted the engine block dataplate. Bored 40 over, Mains 30 over, Rod Ends 30 over. Rebuilt Jul 84 by Bennett and Hanson in Smiths Falls, ON.

The backfiring and pulled plugs suggest it is running too rich. Time to teach myself about timing.

On another topic, how can I function the starter pedal mechanism from under the hood? A short bar or a long screwdriver?

jim fraser (RIP) · #39 26-06-09, 02:32

hi terry.a old piece of a broom handle.those bennett and hanson rebuilts arent a very good rebuilt.they were slapped together very quickly.no quality control.i have at least five of them here in arnprior and none of them are real good.all the jeeps i have had and those rebuilts gave me the most trouble.regards jim.

jim fraser (RIP) · #40 26-06-09, 02:40

hi terry.did you loosen the dist and turn it a little to see if it hits.regards jim.

maple_leaf_eh · #41 30-06-09, 03:12

My neighbour, who had been talking me through some steps, suggested I pull the carb and look for mouse nests etc in the intake. Stranger things have happened he suggested, leading into yet another rendition of his story about 1 of the 3 carbs on an outboard engine being plugged with mouse fluff, pink boat house insulation and old kapok life vest filler. As he says: spark √ ; black plug electrodes; strong spark x4 √ ; fuel √ (gassy fumes from the cylnders when turned with the plugs out); backfires √ ; enough air, dunno. Maybe there isn't enough air getting into the cylinders because of something in the intake?

There were mouse turds and leaves in the heater box where the big hose fits. The carb intake isn't very far away ...

maple_leaf_eh · #42 04-10-09, 03:41

The Jeep sat mostly untouched from end of June to first weekend in October, when MLU's favourite Jeep Whisperer (Rob Love) laid eyes and hands upon 70-08876. For a seat at the supper table and one serving of BBQ back ribs and salad, he got the engine running! Tick another box on the work list.

The problem was the oil pump had been reinstalled incorrectly at some point, and the distributor would never fire as shown in the manuals. The firing order was off from the diagrams. He tweaked the timing a bit, and then with a mist of ether in the intake, COUGH COUGH VROOM!!! and great clouds of smelly smoke exhausted as would be expected from a long idle engine.

He inspected the rest of the vehicle for obvious mods distinctive to Central Canada, observed various things that I will need to address and a couple of fixes that need to be undone. But overall he gave me the nod of approval and wished me well.

rob love · #43 04-10-09, 05:49

After sitting in classrooms all week, with the only exception of visiting the gas hut, it was nice to be able to get my hands dirty again. I was actually surprised at the body condition overall. It was not nearly as bad as I thought an Eastern vehicle would be. It does make me appreciate the condition of our vehicles back in Manitoba mind you.

Feel free to PM me anytime if I can be of assistance Terry. And thanks again for the dinner.

As Terry mentioned, I may have got his engine running again, but unfortunately, I discovered several more faults for him to correct before the vehicle could ever be safetied. Still, it should be a nice truck when he is done.

maple_leaf_eh · #44 19-10-09, 00:39

Well, maybe 95% complete with another 40% to go.

I took advantage of a beautiful fall Sunday to work on 70-08876. Even though Rob Love helped me get the engine running, I have had trouble starting it since. No amount of cranking, fresh gas or ether would work this morning. So I hitched the Jeep to the family minivan and drove down the block to an empty hospital grounds. After failing to start on compression, I towed it around in gear. Hopped in and cranked the starter. VROOOM! She runs! (and smoked) Starting will be an ongoing problem with this engine - running the engine is not.

I tentatively started around the parking lot. All gears work. Front wheels engage. High and low range work. No angry noises or smells. Some hesitancy when accellerating which might have been bad gas. And raw speed! At least 35 mph in 3rd. But absolutely no brakes except the handbrake.

After rehitching to the van and towing the running Jeep back home, I let it run for an hour. I reinstalled the hood and windshield, reconnected the vaccuum wipers and put the passenger seat back in. It is almost complete.

But, the next problem arose after parking it in its place for the winter. Once on the jackstands, I wiggled the front wheels. Left is good, right is loose on the axle. The top of the wheel moves in and out about an inch, almost like the lug nuts were slack. A mechanic who had done some other work told me the King Pin needed to be replaced. I understand now what he meant.

rob love · #45 19-10-09, 18:30

Fresh fuel will certainly make a difference. Getting your timing spot on will also go a long way. You need to use a timing light.

You also mentioned that you had fairly low compression on some of the cylinders. I found that cylinder compression below the 95-105 psi range would result in very difficult unassisted starting. You may be looking at a combination of all 3.

Wrt your wheel play, if you have someone else shake the wheel, and look behind at where the play is, it will be fairly obvious. If it is the kingpins, the whole knuckle will be moving, if it is the wheel bearings, then just the wheel and drum will move with relation to the brake backing plate. Either way, a teardown to at least the wheel bearings is always in order for piece of mind. You can do the front brakes at the same time.