Restoration of Hull 731- Carrier, MG (Aust) Mortar Carrying - Page 2

Darrin Wright · #1 21-10-12, 07:04

Took time off work so had 5 days at home.
Commenced repairs on the linkage brackets for the front seats, had to build up the rusted sections with weld and several were broken and cracked around the pivot into the cast floor bracket. Repaired the cover that goes over the steering cam plate, it was bent and cracked, luckily no rust.

Managed to repair the hole in the rear of the air scoop on the left side by grinding down a patch and welding it in. Measured up and cut some 3/4"tube for the handrail in the left side of the hull. After test fitting the tube for the handrail in the left side I have found that nothing really lines up and is square or true with the hull, also the small ration boxes in the front left corner of the rear hull cannot be accessed. I have decided to go back to my original plan of replacing the handrail in the right side of the hull. I can still access the battery and should be able to work on the engine as required.

So I have patched the hole in the air scoop on the right side and have bought and cut 3/8"rod for the upright sections.

Darrin Wright · #2 21-10-12, 07:07

Placed the 3/4"tubing into the hull and tack welded it in, happy that it was straight and true I then welded it in for good. I then cut the 3/8"rod and welded in the 6 vertical sections, this strengthened the handrail and does not take up too much room. Looks a bit odd having it in there as I have only seen one other hull with the handrails in.

Stripped down all the smaller fittings and tie wired everything together ready to be sandblasted come summer and I have some time off.
Sunday morning I measured up for all the steel that is required to repair the front armour and rebuild the rear stowage box shelf, when ready I will visit the lazer cutters and drop of my order.

Darrin Wright · #3 29-10-12, 13:04

Finished welding up the cut out section next to the drivers area.
Mounting blocks have been made and arrived in the post.
Replaced all the mounting blocks for the front mudguards that required to be replaced.
Repaired the 2 seat bases for the front section, had to remove some additional metal and straighten them and weld up a cracked corner.
Now they are in the box of bits ready for the sand blaster come summer.

Darrin Wright · #4 30-10-12, 11:04

Sunday I worked on the engine cover, stripped it down and replaced all the welded in nuts that secure the top grill section and the lower rear covers. Removed the weapon mount post from the top grill as it was broken.
Straightened the rear section of the engine cover as it was bent.
Also straightened the area around where the side engine cover panels go, had to trim the side covers as something is not quite straight. Marked out where the top catches will be welded.
Took some pics of the camouflage paint pattern for when it gets re-painted. You can never have enough pictures, and when it goes back together and painted I will wonder why I did not take a pic of..... when it was all in pieces.
Removed the 4 knurled knobs that secure the lower covers, will get them remade as the threaded sections are partially rusted away and they are a little bent.
From an old salvaged part of a gear lever assembly that was laying around, I heated (carefully as it is brass) it up and removed the gear lever shaft from the front mount for the gear lever. This will be sandblasted and go back it later.

Darrin Wright · #5 06-11-12, 10:13

Removed the blocks welded to the LHF gunners floor section that hold down the Vickers ammo box tray and replaced them with new items. Cleaned up some threaded blocks with a tap, have managed to save and tidy up a few of them, so will not have to cut them off and replace them. Many of the blocks on the floor are rusted beyond use due to dirt and moisture build up.

Finished making and welding my V8 engine stand, welded in some rear legs and 2 vertical supports for the engine bell housing. I wanted it so that I can just have the engine sitting in the stand and also the gear box on it, so hopefully in the future I can run it up as a test bed.

To finish the engine stand required a floor crane, so I went and picked one up from the tool place. After doing some research found that they are all made in China to the same specs, depending on which company places an order will then depend on what colour it gets painted and the load rating on the boom. All cranes have a 8 tonne ram on them. Anyway, a very handy item to have as I will also lift the suspension with it when the time comes.
It's a red one too.

With the engine stand complete, I also pressure cleaned the engine and gear box and removed the mechanical PTO from the side of the box, something I do not need and will sell. It may suit a tipper, but fits any Ford/New Process gear box.

Darrin Wright · #6 08-12-12, 00:02

Continued working on welding in the rear shelf and making sure it was correct as per the original. Put all welds back in the same place and made a visit to the Bandiana Army Museum to check on their BGC.
Replaced the blocks on the front floor for the linkage cover that is mounted between the 2 front seats.

Darrin Wright · #7 08-12-12, 04:09

From the advice gained in another thread, I proceeded to grind down a 45 deg edge on the LHF side replacement panel and fit the panel. Once straight and in the correct place, clamped it and welded it in.
Had some minor problems with the welder as the wire feed rollers spun on the mig wire, so had to replace the feed roller with a new one. A couple of the welds are not perfect, but they do look like some of the other dodgy welds around the hull.
Also replaced the 2 blocks that hold down the bracket for the front 2 gal water container for the MG.

Repalcing this panel was practice for the front panel section which will be next, having this panel removed from the hull made it easier to get in and out.

Darrin Wright · #8 09-12-12, 08:59

Ground down the edges of the replacement front panel and welded in 2 support braces behind where the panel will sit. Fitted the panel, adjusted the braces, braces fell out, re-welded them back in, re-adjusted until I got a nice fit. Discovered that the front armour plate has a slight bend in it, I wonder if this is why a section of the front panel was removed? Previous accident or did it bend from the cutting????
Placed some tack welds in and then used the bottle jack behind the panel to move/lift it into place until the outer surface aligned. Then started to weld it in for good.
The pics show the process from start to finish, it may not appear that much is happening in them, but there is approx 8hr of work there...still have to place some welds in behind the panel yet.

Lew Skelton · #9 09-12-12, 09:06

Nice work there, I did all mine with arc, it's ballsachingly slow but feels good once finished. On one of the hulls I patched up there was a large hole on the gunners side where the farmers dog used to hop in.

Darrin Wright · #10 26-12-12, 11:51

Welded in the last section of the rear shelf, the Right triangle end piece. Also cleaned up and repaired the bracket for the POL container in the RHR section.
Took the Dodge and Jeep for a drive as it had been awhile since they got out of the workshop and the summer weather has been nice.
Managed to straighten the exhaust shields at the rear of the hull as they were slightly bent and also some minor damage to the angle that protects the brake linkage at the rear.

Darrin Wright · #11 27-12-12, 11:18

Have continued with the welding of the front panel. After welding I then ground down the welds and ran over them with a course sanding disc.
There is a slight variation between the flat panel surfaces, this should be reduced with sandblasting and perhaps, dare I say this, a slight smear of body filler later before painting. This will bring the panel into 1 flat plain surface.
Well it will not fall out as I had the amps turned right up and really managed good penetration.
Just have to place some welds in behind the panel now, not looking forward to welding upside down.

Glenn G · #12 10-09-12, 13:16

Good luck with your resto, it looks like your off to a great start!

Darrin Wright · #13 11-09-12, 11:30

Thanks Glenn, I think I have a good hull even though it has been cut. I am working on the repairs which I will post up here.
Euan, happy to get them made for people if they want them. There was not a great deal of interest in the seat backs and no interest in the diff mounting plate. Sign of the times or everyone already has one except me?????
Let me know...

John Mackie · #14 13-09-12, 11:49

Darren.
reading your post re disys. to change from a "divers helmet" disy to a crab type needs a different camshaft or a 1/2 inch spacer where the gasket goes. seting up the crab disy is exactly the same as the divers helmet. they are best set up on a distributor syncroniser. years ago every garage had one.

re the plate you are looking for the carrier... if it is the plate welded to the rear of the hull and bolts to the pinion flange with 6 bolts i should have one.

Jacques Reed · #15 14-09-12, 00:45

Hi Darrin,

The attached PDF you may find helpful. It is from a Ford Sidevalve forum member in NZ with lots of experience on those engines.

I personally cannot vouch for that method as I set mine up on a "Milesmore" timing jig which I was lucky to obtain many years ago. His experience would indicate that his method would work well also.

Regards,