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  #31  
Old 29-11-04, 06:29
herr-pear's Avatar
herr-pear herr-pear is offline
AKA Roger Hull
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 56
Default Another technique

On extracting stubborn threaded fasteners: A very effective method I have used in the past is once you have a method of exerting torque (be it a welded-on nut, an eze-out or whatever) is to set up a steady, regular vibration while applying the torque. My favorite is a pneumatic hammer set to its lowest force-level but a small (6-8oz ball peen hammer) works also. The theory is that the vibrations cause the threads to loosen for a split second, allowing the fastener to move just a little for each vibration cycle. You do not beat on the fastener itself but right next to it. Of course, penetrating oil helps and the vibrations help the oil penetrate. (O.K. I'm one of the worlds worst spellers but I did graduate #2 in my class at aircraft mechanics school; Spartan in Tulsa).

Hope this helps.

Roger in Vegas
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  #32  
Old 29-11-04, 07:55
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cmperry4 cmperry4 is offline
aka C. Mark Perry (CMP)
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 406
Default HUP shock links

Rob: Here's a link to a page at Vintage Auto Parts with a selection of Chevy shock links - the third version look like they might be usable, but one would have to enquire about the length and spindle dimensions. I hope they might be usable for the front links that I need. The manual says the rear links are something 9.5" and the front are 8" (or is it 8.5" and 9" - manual at workshop, have to check) - I have some rear shocks with the links attached I got from Lorne Ertle, and I could take a snap or two of them tomorrow if you like and take some measurements.


http://www.vapinc.com/chevy/Shock%20Parts/main.html

Speaking of measurements, I was wondering if you could take some measurement of your intact left hand bumper mount and send them along so I can eventually figure out some sort of fabrication for my butchered mounts.
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’45 Chevrolet C8A CMP HUP “Staff Car ”, ’82 Land Rover Series III, 109" ex-MoD,
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  #33  
Old 30-11-04, 05:31
RHClarke's Avatar
RHClarke RHClarke is offline
Mr. HUP
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Ottawa Area
Posts: 2,327
Default DOWN LINKS AND OTHER HUP STUFF

Hi Mark,

I will take some digital photos of the bumper mount the next time I am able to get out to work on the "metal mistress" as my wife calls it... This may take some time as I am heading east for a few day of work related visits.

Thanks for the link link. I wonder if your front downlinks are the same as the rear downlinks?

Next on the parts list: six bolt sixteen inch wheels x 4. Please let me know if you have seen any spares laying about.

Cheers,

R
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  #34  
Old 13-06-05, 04:12
RHClarke's Avatar
RHClarke RHClarke is offline
Mr. HUP
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Ottawa Area
Posts: 2,327
Default Broken Axle Bolt

Well, after a spring of clean living, avoiding the news, and refraining from cuss'n, I finally have some good news to report: The dreaded broken off bolt and Easy-Out are no more! Following Bill M's advice, and using Bob C's expertise with the hot wrench, the bane of my existence is no more. Actually, it was almost anti-climatic.

This weekend, Bob and I moved my axle to his shop and set it up on one of his home made axle stands. This evening, we ground down the bolt and surrounding area, took a good sized nut, and then Bob fired up the welder. With the nut welded in place, we heated up the surrounding area. A few whacks with a good sized ball pean hammer on the side of the casing was rewarded with a nice snapping sound as the bolt and Easy (my a**) out gave up the ghost . A few twists of the nut and the offending bolt was gone. Merci, Monsieur Carriere.

Now on to the next phase - reassembly!

RHC
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