#691
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I have used the Gillespie White from Rapco on an M113A2, and it came out very well. Relatively cheap and forgiving. But if you go for the Tremclad oil based, it can be sprayed by using laquer thinner or Acetone to thin it.
Last edited by rob love; 20-10-21 at 18:59. |
#692
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battery corner
Looking through all of this thread I still don't get the exact original layout/construction of whatever is under the battery boxes outside of the two wood supports. Metal pan above? Dimensions?
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#693
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Thanks super Dave
Thanks for your help call text and pictures. Great help and thank Reg for me.
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#694
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Fan voltage
Sitting in the wire 5 with the ceiling fan on and marvelling at the original ceiling fan working so well after I cleaned and oiled it it occurred to me that it might be 6 not 12 volt. It spins up on a fully charged battery. And idea if it’s 6 or 12 volts and if 6 would 12 hurt it?
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#695
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Quote:
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#696
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Thank you
Good info. Thx
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#697
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Bedliner caution
I'll go back and post a warning but the Berliner failed after less than a year, I should have used a primer of some sort on the aluminium and the maple plywood for the treads delaminated horribly. I'll get it into my workspace and strip it all down to bare metal again and do some more research before doing it again.
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#698
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Good afternoon Harry,
You may want to use caution sanding the aluminum bodywork. In the aircraft world, either chemical strippers or more exotic forms of blasting (dry ice etc.) are typically used for paint removal as for at least some aluminum structures have the surface of the panel has different propertied than the core. Aluminum typically needs some form of etch before prime/paint. The etch can either be a preliminary treatment in advance of priming or in the form of a self-etching primer. Eastwood has an article on prep and priming of aluminum (of course featuring their products...) https://garage.eastwood.com/diy-how-...SAAEgIo6vD_BwE You may also want to look at www.Aircraftspruce.com for products intended for aircraft use such as https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalo...clickkey=12575 or more generally https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catego.../cs/index.html Last edited by Grant Bowker; 20-07-22 at 21:06. |
#699
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What a bummer after all that work....
Any pictures Harry????
I would check/chat with the firms that do install that liner, such as a local LineX, to see how they prepare the fresh factory paint to allows a permanent bond.... most dealers deal with a local after market contractor for that option....I had mine done on my Ford and when compared to the factory liner the local contractor did a better job of reaching/sealing very evenly in all corners. They may be using some form of acidic or lye degreasing solution to remove any surface oil film or some other weird prep solution.. Let us know how youmake out.
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#700
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I just finished painting an aluminum box shaped item. I sandblasted the sides, front and rear to bare aluminum and used the Endura brand primer. The salespeople said it would work fine on aluminum. I followed that with a coat of Endura gloss white, but they can mix whatever colour you want.
In my experience, this stuff adheres well. It isn't cheap mind you, but will not fade like the synthetic enamels we usually use in this hobby. |
#701
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Update on my wire 5 roof
I finally got ahead of other projects and got my wire 5 back in my workspace and assessed the damage from my poor choices.
First think I learned is I should have used a marine grade mahogany plywood. the ordinary plywood I used is 90% of the failure. The Bed liner seemed to stick to most of the aluminum and where it did fail was due to me not properly prepping the surface before hand. These pictures show the results. I got some good advice, got some good materials and I'm going to be on this roof for the next month at least. |
#702
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Hi Harry.
That is indeed a sad looking roof on your WIRE-5. I hope you have not purchased any replacement plywood yet for it. Any choice of plywood you should make will be incorrect. It was simply not used in any of the original factory production of these bodies by Wilson. The product they used was 1/4-inch solid fibre board. What we drill holes into today and call ‘peg board’. The trick is, they cut it into strips and installed it upside down; the rough, checkerboard surface facing up, rather than the smooth finished side. In the 1943 - 1944 time period these trucks were built, several factors played against the use of plywood for these strips. Any marine grade supplys of plywood would have been reserved for the Navy. The use of the newer glues developed by De Havilland to solve delamination problems with the Mosquito in humid climates were reserved for aircraft production. So that left the animal glue based standard plywood’s that everyone knew would not hold up. Plywood comes in three grades basically, a construction grade where all plies are crap. Good one side with a good ply on one side only. Good both Sides with all the crap hidden in the middle. Marine grade plywood indeed uses water resistant glues but I doubt the grade of the interior woods is much better than standard plywood. Cut into thin strips like you will require for your WIRE-5 roof will probably expose more flaws on the edges. It may take a little longer to happen but over time it would still start to rot out the wood bits. The other problem is safety. These strips were added to the roof of the WIRE-5 to help reduce the risk of personnel slipping with wet, muddy boots and falling off the nice flat, smooth painted aluminum roof. How much safer would it be with rows of flat, smooth, painted plywood across the roof? They needed something better and as cheap as possible, and they found that with the fibre board strips installed upside down. Back here in Winnipeg in the 1970’s, Princess Auto had a huge fleet of surplused WIRE-5s in their yard. They sold a lot complete but nearly 50 of them had the boxes removed to use as storage containers and the cab and chassis bits were sold off, oddly enough, as DODGE Trucks in their catalogues of the day. I combed through every single one of those boxes back then, collecting missing parts for my WIRE-5 restoration, including a complete accident write off vehicle sitting out near the front of the store. It was complete and very low mileage. The strips on its box roof, and 75% of all the others in their yard were 1/4-inch fibre board installed upside down. The rest were plywood and all looked like hell. The other interesting thing was most of the plywood jobs were on boxes with incorrect/repainted interiors, which led me to believe these vehicles had undergone a postwar military rebuild at some time using the cheapest possible materials chosen by people who did not understand the original design or purposes of the items being replaced. David |
#703
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Quote:
Chris. |
#704
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A variation of that material I was not aware of, Chris. Thanks for the update.
David |
#705
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I put in the original brass light fixtures for the 12v lighting.
__________________
44 GPW / 44 C-15-A Cab 13 Wireless 5 with 2K1 box X 2 / 44 U.C. No-2 MKII* / 10 Cwt Cdn Brantford Coach & Body trailer X 2 / 94 LSVW |
#706
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And removed the temporary 120 v temporary lights. All original now.
__________________
44 GPW / 44 C-15-A Cab 13 Wireless 5 with 2K1 box X 2 / 44 U.C. No-2 MKII* / 10 Cwt Cdn Brantford Coach & Body trailer X 2 / 94 LSVW |
#707
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original vs durability
Quote:
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