Vc 2047 lp2 - Page 3

colin jones · #61 02-05-15, 09:55

The fuel tank brackets are done and painted but I still have to put the felt on them yet. the last picture it the rod tunnel painted and bolted in place. I need to make some fuel tanks soon as well.

colin jones · #62 03-05-15, 08:23

The inside is as far as I can go with the carrier on its side. I have installed the fuel tank brackets and refurbed and fitted the rear gearbox mount as well. With the aid of my very good helper Andrew we turned the carrier on its wheels and he took it outside so we can give the workshop a good clean.

gjamo · #63 03-05-15, 09:35

A handy young man that Andrew is.He is a keeper.

colin jones · #64 06-05-15, 09:53

Yes Graeme, he's definitely a keeper and I need to teach this grasshopper well

Here's where the carrier is at the moment. I'm ready for the rear wiring, airscoop then the engine but that will be next week.

colin jones · #65 12-05-15, 09:23

I don't know how everyone else puts their tracks on but this is how I do mine.
I lay my tracks out (176 links if new), push the carrier on top until the idler wheel is about 1/2 mtr in from the end. As you can see in the Pic, I use a chain and thread a link pin through and secure the chain over the idler andall the way back to my fork,(car, truck, bus, tractor, train, or whatever you have) then simply tow back until the carrier in in the correct position for the track winch to be put on.

colin jones · #66 12-05-15, 09:27

Tracks on and just a few tidy up bits to do inside.

jack neville · #67 12-05-15, 17:57

Two dogs and a seven year old boy. And here was I thinking you did all the work Mr Jones. No wonder you get so much done.

Lynn Eades · #68 12-05-15, 21:15

Jack, you've made a mistake. The animal in the second photo is a Clydesdale!

colin jones · #69 19-05-15, 09:53

Hey Jack, don't tell everyone I use child and animal labour as I think it might be against the law

Lynn, I use my big dog (Melvin) when my tractor won't start

I only seem to get an hour here and there at the moment but any progress is good progress

colin jones · #70 19-05-15, 09:56

I also managed to get a bit more painting done and all the wiring is in as well.

Lynn Eades · #71 19-05-15, 10:31

You're an artist Colin

jack neville · #72 19-05-15, 16:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by colin jones

Hey Jack, don't tell everyone I use child and animal labour as I think it might be against the law

Lynn, I use my big dog (Melvin) when my tractor won't start

I only seem to get an hour here and there at the moment but any progress is good progress

You are obviously not a proponent of W.C.Fields Colin-"Never work with animals or children."

I had a great time working on my vehicles over the years with my three little apprentices. Trouble is when they grow up and try and become your boss.

colin jones · #73 27-06-15, 10:15

Not much posting lately but I've still been busy doing other things as well as the carrier. I made a set of press tooling to do the ends of the fuel tanks as the last lot I did were hand formed which took so long. This can go on the shelf with all my other highly crafted

and engineered dies

.
I'm pressing 16g or 1.6mm sheet which gave me a good form to work to.

colin jones · #74 27-06-15, 10:20

I made another radius former as well to get the correct shape. This must be done in sequence or you cannot get the last pressing and making the correct allowance for the radius when marking the sheet.
Just a little edit! here's a handy tip if you have a press brake. In the first photo I have a thin piece bent to the exact width of my V die and a line in the centre. This just makes it very easy and accurate to set your material in the centre which otherwise you could be a bit out. This is good when you are doing multiple bends that have to marry up with other pieces. Because I bent the little piece into a channel I simply slide it back so my top tool doesn't bend that too. I have one on both sides.

colin jones · #75 27-06-15, 10:40

The ends fitted quite well with the aid of a few clamps and a few tack welds. The inlet holes were done with a hole saw and the spouts welded in place

colin jones · #76 27-06-15, 10:48

Just to show how I make a lot of discs all the same size. I start with a length of 5mm plate and mark my circles, cut rough in the bandsaw, trim around on the notcher, drill a hole in the centre to fit a 1/2 inch bolt, clamp them together and lathe them to size. These parts are for the filter plates. 1 gets welded to the tank and the other one is bolted to it with a gasket. I'll be making the filter part tomorrow.

colin jones · #77 27-06-15, 10:51

I prepared these earlier

I made these vision shutters last week for a fellow carrier restorer.

Colin!

SDeMocko · #78 28-06-15, 03:29

Colin,

Any chance of you posting pics of how you made the glass holding part of the vision shutter? AMAZING WORK!

Stephen DeMocko
'44 MKII
So. Cal, USA

colin jones · #79 28-06-15, 10:10

Hi Stephen, I never took any photo's when I did that set but here's what I did. I bent the channel in the folder to the size I wanted and simply bent it around the same shaped form of the original radius. In this case I folded the channel with a 5mm inside measurement. the material you see is 5mm thick and I just put it in the vice and just hammered id around part way. it will flare out but if you take it out of the vice with the form a couple of times and hammer down to shrink it then it will form the right radius. There was no rocket science in the way I do this and that was about one minute to form that bend. I had a form the same dimensions as the glass but I just can't find it. I hope this helps.
Colin.

colin jones · #80 28-06-15, 10:14

I had some visitors today so I never got to finish my fuel pickup parts but I did get some time consuming parts done.

colin jones · #81 30-12-15, 08:27

Wow, I can't believe it been so long since I put anything on about this carrier. I've just been preoccupied doing lots of other important things. Now I need to finish this project and I need a couple of rear light. I've never made these before so I thought I'd have a go.
I made a 4 part pressing and cut some 2" exhaust pipe for the main body.

colin jones · #82 30-12-15, 10:39

Hmm, for some reason I can't upload any more pics

Hanno Spoelstra · #83 30-12-15, 11:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by colin jones

Hmm, for some reason I can't upload any more pics

For some reason the forum was slow just earlier - please try again.

colin jones · #84 30-12-15, 12:35

I used some solid rod, machined it to shape, cut to length, cut at 45deg, welded back to make 90deg then welded the bits all together. I'm going to use LEDs so I don't have any voltage issues and Red and Blue Perspex. I know it's not the norm but these are pretty hard to find.

Bob Carriere · #85 30-12-15, 17:46

..... it would be a delight just to watch you do all those parts.

A few questions if you please.

On pressing the end caps for the fuel tanks ... how much tonnage did you use or required...? considering doing end caps for CMP tanks which are of much lighter gauge...approx 18 gauge and would use an hydraulic press of 20 or 30 tons.

Did you intall baffles in your tanks.

How did you weld the end seams...... mig or tig or even gas??
did you test you welds for leaks or will you be relying on using a tank sealer solution...?

You are an inspiration.

Thanks

Bob C

colin jones · #86 30-12-15, 22:38

Hi Bob, it wouldn't think you need any more than 20-30 ton to press out CMP tanks. To get an even pressing it all relies on the top press die and by that I mean getting an even distribution of power to all paints to stop deflection. I assume you are using a garage press style which is a single point of power. You could simply use very thick steel or thinner and fabricate with lots of bracing (Gussets) That's the method I used. The base of my top one is 10mm thick and have put a number of triangle gussets around. I never got any deflection at all and I was pressing 16g If you have access to a press brake, that would be even better and mine is only a 40tonner.
I never put baffles in my tanks as they are well supported in a carrier unlike a truck hanging on the side.
I mig welded the ends in doing vertical downs where possible but yours being thinner would probably be better to Tig them.
I tested mine with an air fitting in the fuel pickup point with about 60psi and did the old soapy water which shows up the smallest of leaks. You could use some sealant as well.
Good luck and post photos.
Colin.

Euan McDonald · #87 31-12-15, 00:53

Hi Colin, great to see you over the cruise and getting on with shed time.
I went down the track of making lamp body's as well and had a die machined then took it to a metal spinner and had s few spun. I contemplate having them done in stainless as well. Matt is also making some and came up with a brass fitting from Bunnings for the rear.
Keep up the good work

Wayne Hingley · #88 31-12-15, 01:13

Very nice workmanship Colin! You have talent and its great to see you taking on these challenges. Bob is correct... you are an inspiration. Keep it up.

Bob Carriere · #89 31-12-15, 03:18

Looking back at the stamping die you made..... should be able to replicate.

The CMP fuel tank is very light material and may be easier to form...... baffles would be necessary. Based on the many rusted tanks we have worked on the baffles are installed first after the outside skin has been pinched and welded shut.... baffles are then inserted and welded by a long arm spot welder. The reserve baffle is sealed tight on all 3 sides using a rolling wheel welder simialr to what they weld the end caps with. Can't afford all the specialized machinery but our time is free and the challenge worthwhile. We may just spot weld some baffles and then weld the end plugs ...... the soapy test is certaily worthwhile but would be safer with a liquid sealer for the finish process.

May try some scaled down smaller pressing over the Winter months for practical experience....... maybe tackle the small indent for the bottom drain plugs.

Cheers

Cheers

Robert Bergeron · #90 31-12-15, 05:32

Great work !

An inspiration.