Reference: C15 s/n 2842129988 history and restoration

[Bob Carriere]

....but building on others ideas.....

Not being a professional mechanic or panel beater, I need all the help I can find on MLU.

My view is that we live to learn and learn as long as we live.... and if either stops.... we are dead.

Sheet metal working is probably the most comon weak area for most of us..... mechanical processes you can always be reason out ......BUT...... body work requires a certain artistic " je ne sais quoi"....

....must watch the French lingo... our Aussie friends get all excited when they see French words.....

Please continue to share approaches, techniques, etc.....

BooB

[rampant rivet]

I work as a carpenter and have learned the hard way on my first restoration of a 1940 16 H Norton which I bought in a tea chest aged 19, then progressed on to a Ford gpw Jeep which I spent a year rebuilding from scrap then rebuilt again 10 years later having learned a lot along the way mixed in with a couple of dodge WC's.
Bob's right you never stop learning and this forum has provided lots of help to my latest project.
I'm now picking up valuable info on the restoration of my cab panels.
Do you think that my cab roof should have a gutter running along the top of the doors ?
Do you think I may have a problem in taking on all these projects ?

heres the norton now its a good bike and I enjoy using it when I get the time.

RR.

norton in bits4.jpg norton4.jpg

[T Creighton]

Hi RR.
Looking back at your work so far do you really think you will have a problem with a job that is challenging and will give you satisfaction when done?
I don’t think so.
Have a go at the panelwork and make it like you want it to be.
I am a farmer and will try most things but my hammer would probably put more dents in than it would take out. Oh for that artistic flair that Bob speaks of.
I would be keen to do the next cab all myself but at 69 years the present one might be only one.
Cheers Terry

[Ken Hughes]

hi rr have a go yourself, try panel beating on a simular bit of panel steel first.
a dint on a corner panel can be blocked out first from behind
with a suitable shaped dolly/hammer or whatever you have.
you need to practice on a flat panel with on dolly off dolly blows
block up the dint 90%,hold the dolly under the low point and hammer the high points around the rim of the dint, you should see the rest of the dint raise up as you go.
I should say practice on the same thickness panel steel as
you are going to use try it , but does take practice.

[Phil Waterman]

Originally posted by Bob Carriere
Question...... how was the bottom and middle angle angle curved to shape....... I propose to cut slits in the angle, heat, bend and reweld with the mig and grind smooth.....
any suggestions....?? Phil Waterman.... how did you do yours??

Sorry for the delay in getting back with how I fabricated the curved angle iron top and bottoms for the Pattern 12 finally got all the pictures posted on my site http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/SheetMetalWork.html basically I notched and welded to form a smooth curve.

[Rod Diery]

G'day all, I just found this thread and thought I would put in my 2 bob's worth.

In answer to Bob Carriere's comments about the chassis back in August 2006, it is my theory that GM Canada took a civilian pick up truck chassis of probably US origin and modified it to suit the CMP cab. The C15 chassis measures 36" between the outsides of the frame rails whereas the C15A and every other Chevrolet CMP measures 34" between the outsides of the rails.

You may also note in the pic Jeremy posted of his restored cab floor that the C15 cab has a different shape to the wheel arches. This allows the 9.00-16 tyres fitted to the C15 to clear when at full steering lock. The C15 has a much tighter turning circle than the 4X4 version.

Finally, congratulations to you Jeremy on the standard of you restoration. I have just started restoring my own C15 here and I will be very happy if mine looks like yours when I am done.

regards
Rod
http://users.bigpond.net.au/blitz_trucks/cmp.html

[rampant rivet]

Cheers Rod
Its been a long but very enjoyable project I have the new cab rear panels now and am just waiting for the lower cab frame to be shot blasted before assembly of cab.
Am about to start fitting the wiring loom when it arrives from Vinwire in OZ before final assembly of major components.
Most of the work on the rear GS body is now complete but I need details of storage bins etc fitted to the underside.
If you need any detailed pics feel free to ask, its my birthday on friday and I get to spend the whole day at my workshop the first in a while so I'll add some more pics to this thread as work progresses.
Regarding steel cab panel sheets I just had the basic curved corner shapes formed plus the joggled edges to the topmost panel to allow me to custom fit them to the cab frames I will also cut the hole for the rear window myself to keep costs to a minimum and to ensure accuracy as I saved the old rusty originals.

RR.

[rampant rivet]

Had Friday off work and put it to good use restoring the engine cover etc.

RR.

[rampant rivet]

Heres a shot of the rear upper panel with hole cut ready to plug weld frame in place, the frame is actualy a good inner one that I have reversed and will use as an outer.
The original inner frame of the old cab panel will now become the new inner frame bolted to t'other if you get my gist all I need to find now is the seal in which the sliding panels fit.

Heres the cab panel loosely clamped in place with frame plug welded in position.

RR.

[rampant rivet]

Have started dry fitting seats etc to cab,

had a few spare minutes at work the other day so made some new rifle butt holders for the cab.

RR.

[rampant rivet]

Well having some time off work over Easter has allowed some progress on the C15 after lots of plug welding of cab panels plus repairs to roof I now have a Chev with a roof plus have fitted the spare wheel carrier
Will finish the wiring loom next prior to fitting front body work then the rear body will be lowered onto the chassis hopefully

RR.

[Bob Carriere]

.... I wish I was that far along with my truck........

Couple of questions.....

How come you have helper springs on a C15a....?

On the picture of your new floor plate........ how come the floor plate does not go over the rear floor crossmember section with the screws sticking out...??? how is the floor plate held in place....welded?

On my cab 11 the back wall of the cabin has the angle iron of the wall bolted directly through the floor......... the cab 11 has no seperate floor crossmember as per the 13.....

Just curious........

Bob

[rampant rivet]

Hi Bob
Firstly I think its my turn to compliment you on your restoration of your vehicle I am sure it will turn out to be a very high quality restoration.
Regarding the helper springs, I think this topic has already been covered earlier in this thread.
The springs are fitted as standard on C15's I think, I am not sure of C 15 - A's. My truck is a C15 not C15 - A
Its a different beastie.
The floor plate rests on a plate welded to the underside of cab frame the rear floor plate is then welded underneath to the cab frame.
My 13 cab rear panel frame is bolted through the floor cab frame with one long center bolt going through a spacer into chassis crossmember, the other bolts go through the cab mounting springs, will add some detailed pics when I can.
The rear cab panel frame is bolted directly onto cab floor frame thats the margin you can see in the photo.

Its starting to look familiar now have started to loosely fit the wiring harness before fitting front.

cab view.

RR.

[Rod Diery]

Originally posted by Bob Carriere
.... I wish I was that far along with my truck........

Couple of questions.....

How come you have helper springs on a C15a....?

On the picture of your new floor plate........ how come the floor plate does not go over the rear floor crossmember section with the screws sticking out...??? how is the floor plate held in place....welded?

On my cab 11 the back wall of the cabin has the angle iron of the wall bolted directly through the floor......... the cab 11 has no seperate floor crossmember as per the 13.....

Just curious........

Bob

Hi Bob, All C15s have helper springs on the rear, C15As do not.
The bolts on RR's C15 cab floor are to attach the cab rear panel. The angle on the 13 cab is attached to this panel and not to the floor like your Cab 11.

Cheers
Rod

[Bob Carriere]

.....still learning....

I will have to cut out some good pieces off a cab 11 floor from under the seats to replace a section of the cab 12 that I will be using.....determine to match and preserve the dot and dash pattern of the old floor.

Since the Cab 12 have extra reinforcements with a 5/8 plate under the rear corners and the fact that it is not has eroded by rust.....i.e. pattern is more visible...... I will use the cab 12 floor on the cab 11 truck....... don't tell anyone!!!!!!!

BooB

[Alex van de Wetering]

Hi Jeremy,

Your project is really a joy to look at! Great work and nice to see that you are keeping speed in your restoration.

Alex

[Keith Orpin]

Hi Jeramy,
A while ago in this thread, you asked if you should have rain channels above each door. I would suggest you should have. Having looked at your latest images, you don't seem to have any. They can be made, but not easily, as there are 4 bends to make. If you require any pictures or assistance, please let me know
Keith
P.S. The Matchless is now home and in bits !

[rampant rivet]

Hi Keith
Yes I was thinking about adding rain channels but after removing some postwar C channel stiffeners from the underside top of the door the original roof edge was revealed showing no evidence of a rain gutter hence no gutter on my roof.
Matchless in bits ? shame all this nice biking weather going to waste saying that I am about to remove the tank from my Norton in order to fix a pin hole leak and repaint with the correct C number on the tank.
Good luck with the bike, will probably restore an M 20 or Ariel WNG after recovering from the C 15
The Chev is the last big restoration that I will attempt, not that I havn't enjoyed this project its been a very interesting and enjoyable journey and I've met some very good people along the way, and through this forum have received lots of help and advice not forgetting lots of encouragement. which keeeps you going :-)
With the Jeep and the Norton storage becomes a problem you can never have a big enough shed !! plus the logistics of mantainance being newly married and a mortgage looming on the horizon means I will have limited funds

Cheers RR.

[Hendrik van Oorspronk]

Hello should never say it is your last, if you have room in your garage you will buy a next project, until the last, you thought it would fit, it doesn't, ask a lot of people, you always have one vehicle more then will fit in your garage, you thought it would fit in it, bit it did not.

Green greeting Hendrik

[rampant rivet]

Hi Hendrik
Yes this is the last big restoration job I will do, I have spent over three years working on the Chev and it has been good fun, but I just do not have the time or money for another large restoration and as I have had my Norton 16H for twenty years I think an M20 or Ariel WNG would make a good stable mate in the future.

RR.

[Hendrik van Oorspronk]

Now I understand, you don't start a new project, you are just looking for another motorcycle you can work on

Green greetings Hendrik

[rampant rivet]

Have made another step forward this evening after work as now I have lowered the rear body onto the chassis

Took it outside for a spin in the yard probably the first time the chevs moved under its own steam in years.
Note - this is what a happy rivet looks like

Now to sort out the steps, wiring loom, front shell, wings etc etc can anyone tell me the system used to hold rear body to chassis rail.


Heres a better shot without a rivet in the way very nice to be able to dive the beast at last can't wait to start using properly

RR

[Max Hedges]

the step on our C15 hope that helps
Max

[rampant rivet]

Thanks Max
Could you send some of the drivers side as well please and if you have time I need some detailed pics of the stowage bins fitted to the underside of the body as I need to make new ones.

Cheers RR

[Max Hedges]

there was a thread on these bin agood while back, Hanno remembers every thing so he might be able to find it
Max

[rampant rivet]

Have had to dry fit nose shell prior to truck being inspected by the DVLA in order to get a registration mark, free road tax and MOT exemption the beast really is starting to look like it should though I have to remove the nose shell to enable me to finish off electrics / lift radiator to correct height, fit headlights if I ever get them etc etc etc.

On fitting the nose section I came accross this problem see photo - I think that in a previous life this truck was fitted with a diesel engine resulting in the shell being modified, the gap shown is not parellel and does not look right I think that before removal I will take some measurements and adjust to close the gap up, two steps forward one back as they say Off to France for the annual beer and battlefields tour next week which will be good to enable me to recharge the batteries and then push on with the retoration on my return.

RR.

[George McKenzie]

I have a #13 F15A original with no helper springs and a #11 F15A with the Chev rearends .It has helper springs .These trucks have their original paint and no rust . This is very interesting as I think alot of changes were done by local units .George Mckenzie

[rampant rivet]

Well not too much to report lately, have recovered from a mad trip to France am in the middle the middle of trying to buy our first house together and I have just been informed that the owner of the workshop I rent wants me to vacate while doubling the rent meanwhile this will mean a delay in my restoration while I move all the gear as well as the truck to new premises.
The good news is that if we do manage to sort the new house there will be room for me to build a nice new shop to take the Norton, Jeep and the chevy plus all the other accumolated junk ooops I meant to say historic military artifacts.


RR.

[rampant rivet]

This may be the last pic I post on here for a while untill I have managed to move truck and contents of workshop. though I have finally finished the electrics with the generous help from my father.
Just need to fit wings, wipers and other odds'n sods but its getting there looks a bit better with the spare wheel fitted.
Am looking forward to its first shake down road runs

Well the chev has a new temperary home as it now resides at the estate I work on, had to move it on a beaver tail as I am having problems getting the brakes to operate properly.

Its starting to look the part now with details like roof grab rails, headlights, and markings to do. It drives well but with no brakes its quite an experience

After adjusting wheel cylinders according to the manual the Chev has now got some brakes and a good pedal, I am bedding in the shoes to the newly skimmed drums and have done 4.5 miles so far with nothing major falling off, just the odd adjustment here and there.
Jobs for Sat include making brackets to take the front british army Butler sidelights to act as disguised indicators and some temperary mirror adjusting brackets to allow me to fit the mirrors as even with no tilt fitted its not much fun reversing without them.

RR.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

RR,

Looks really splendid - well done!

Hanno