#961
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Forgot to post these pictures up the other day.
The quick release knobs used in the Wire3 had large washers and chain to act as keepers. I ended up using a handheld punch setup in the shop press to punch the small hole into the washers. The chain wire was then passed through the small hole and then the wire was welded up. I decided to do a number of practice welds first and I am glad I did. I had the Mig welder down to the lowest heat and speed settings to get them welded up. If I lingered the wire heated up too much and would evaporate.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#962
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Lastly, I noticed after painting that one of the seat trays was missing the rear Lift the Dot stud. So I riveted in a new one after setting up a backing plate for the stud die.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#963
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Wire 3 vs wire 5
Examining the holes in the floor of my wire % i think it might have used the same setup...?
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#964
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You're making a beautiful job of this restoration.
Chris. |
#965
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Quote:
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#966
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Had the C15a out to its first event. I drove the truck there and back home. Each way was about 1.5hrs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5T2_1tsIrs The above is some nice video while driving inthe city
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#967
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Now that's different
Hi Jordan
Now I think that is a first on MLU, aeial of CMP on the move. Not a drown shot, so did you preposition an observe? Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#968
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Hi Phil
It was filmed by my dad from his place. He knew we’d be going by and waited.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#969
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The joys of old trucks. Doing maintenance. Last week I drained and fill the diffs to change out the gear oil. However I overfilled the rear diff and ended up noticing gear oil draining from the drip hole on the brake backing plate. There was also some staining and the odd time a small dribble from the axle end on the hub. Today I pulled it all apart to do some cleanup and get it so it isn’t leaking. Thankfully the inner cone did its job and kept and leaking oil from getting into the brake drum or on the shoes.
Tomorrow I hope to be getting everything back together again.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#970
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Jordan if you install outer hub seals, that will restrict the oil to the axle tube. This means you can pack your bearings with grease, which baring a major failure, means you should never have oil getting to your brakes.
I say this for those that don't know (because I know you do) Make sure you clean out inside the shield and the tell tale hole.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#971
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Jordan,
I don't know whether this may be part of the issue or not. M35 and M135 series trucks used a cork seal (wedge shaped) in the keyway/groove highlighted by the arrow in your 3rd picture above. The wedge/insert was claimed to be part of the sealing to keep lubricants where they belonged. The attached diagram lifted from the web is one of the clearest I've seen to date showing where the wedge sits. There are also web posts claiming that a blob of silicone can replace the wedge. I don't see a reference to the wedge seal in the C15A parts list but I may not have been looking in the right area of the list or might not have recognized what the list called it.... so I'm not sure whether the CMPs used such a seal. Having said that the seal may be used and might be significant, I don't recall if my C15A has them but I certainly dont recall making them as suggested by many from old valve cover gasket material , or from sheet cork gasket material. |
#972
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My understanding is that the cork gets pinched in between the two tabs of the washer and the seal. That is the way I have been doing it for the past 40 years. The corks are not tapered on either end. I have dozens in their packages at work, so these are factory design originals as opposed to the cut valve covers.
Edited to add: Grant, I checked the MLVW manual and the illustration you have is wrong. The cork goes in between the seal's tab and the tab washers inner tab. Not sure the Chev ever had the cork, but it would help if the truck for some reason leaned enough to let the oil get in to the top of the spindle, or was splashing it to the point of putting oil onto the top of the adjusting nuts. In Jordans case, we were having email discussion on this, and he had filled his diff to the edge of the filler hole. Normally you go one knuckle lower to allow for expansion, and even a half inch lower won't hurt, but will help prevent leaks. And of course, the breather valve must be clean. Last edited by rob love; 03-09-21 at 21:45. |
#973
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So I went through my box of parts and pulled out a some NOS outer seals. Thought I would compare the two. Take off is on the left and NOS on the right. There is about 1.5mm difference between the two. When I dry fit the two seals in the diff there is noticeable looseness with the takeoff one. I figure that between this seal and the overfilling of the diff that’s where my problem was coming from.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#974
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Everything is back on with freshly repacked bearings. The NOS outer seal was a much better fit (tight against the hub) and I now understand how these parts work.
Thanks all for the help. When I refill the diff up I’ll be sure to keep it lower then I did.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#975
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The outer seals are leather. They should be soaked in oil for a few hours before installation.
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#976
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In the Ford Hub (larger CMPs) as with Carriers, there is also the metal seals alternative (steel inner, cast iron? outer)
Usually if there is no outer hub seal, then the diff cavity is separated by a seal in the axle tube that runs on the axle.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#977
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yes
I agree. I have been following this restoration from its beginning.
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#978
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Thanks for the compliments. I’ve had a lot of fun restoring this truck and learned an incredible amount of skills with it.
Rob, these seals seem to be a cloth/rubber combination for the sealing lip.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#979
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Dome light wiring
Quote:
I think I found out how the socket was supposed to be wired. According to a schematic in the MACH-ZL manual, the output wire from the switch goes to the lamp and the socket. So the socket is only powered when the light is on. It looks like that this was not always the case though. The NOS dome lights that came with my truck both have a short cable that plugs into the socket. So it looks like that the socket could also be used as input for the dome light (easy to do, just connect the socket wire to the input of the switch) One question: How did you find out that these use an ARK-LES push/pull switch? It looks like that the NOS lights did not come with switches. Last edited by M.Morren; 24-09-21 at 13:18. |
#980
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Interesting find with the wiring diagram. It makes sense that the plug socket wouldn’t be live unless the switch is on. I’m not sure how the pigtails worked or what the purpose for them was being so short.
As for the Arkless switch. I picked up a few take off lights from a few different sources and they had those switches. The switches had been over painted with paint matching on the wooden base. I found the rest of my switches on eBay.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#981
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Dove into my manual again and found that the switch wasn't even mentioned in the parts/equipment list. It was added manually in this one.
I also found some more proof of the originality of the ARK-LES Heavy Duty switch. A switch, which closely resembles the one you found, was drawn In one of the 3 "Location Of Equipment" drawings. (on the left side of the dome light) This is enough evidence for me to start looking for them. Thank you for sharing the info on the switches (And everything else in this thread!) |
#982
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It’s been a long time posting any updates on this truck. Partly it’s been that most of the truck is done and there is just small details to work on. However 2022 has been mostly spent on building a new home for the vehicles. I’ll post a separate thread on the shop shortly. But for now a teaser……
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#983
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So what are the dimensions........
....looks like 30 x 50 with a full second floor.
Make sure it is fire proof!!!!
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#984
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This past year and a half the truck has not been out much. The last time it was out, the carb gave a lot of issues. So tonight I decided to pull it apart for a rebuild. Well I’m glad I did, as the bowl and passages were full of rust flakes. The lower body was totally stripped down. This is now currently soaking in a tub of Evaporust. Hopefully this will get the passages cleaned up
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#985
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After soaking the lower body in evaporust over night I’m happy to report that the majority of the rust is gone. This morning I took the parts over to a friend’s shop as he has a vapour blasting cabinet. He uses it for rebuilding snow mobile and motorcycle engines. The parts cleaned extremely well and the top parts look like NOS parts. The only down side is that the cast lower bodies flash rust. However I’m doing another 24hrs in evaporust.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#986
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Fuel filter......?
Are you not running a fuel filter on that truck.......??? I am a great fan of the glass bowl fuel filter of the early 50s......immediately before the carb.......
I do use an original frame mounted filter on the C15a but this one I can see.....same applies to my old 40s Allis Chalmers tractor..... you can see the dirt and the water in the bottom of the bowl......which reminds me to drain the frame mounted filter next time I grease her up.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#987
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The rust issue was internal on the carb itself. So an external filter would not have helped.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#988
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Nearly finished. Tonight was zinc plating a bunch of the stamped parts and fasteners
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#989
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Is zinc plating a DIY process?
__________________
Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
#990
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Well I’m happy to report the carb rebuild went very well. Last week when I reinstalled it it had a poor idle performance. I realized that the low speed jet that I installed from the kit was different than the one I removed from the carb. So I took it out and replaced it. I also blew some high pressure air through the passages to make sure they were clear. Once back on the truck it idles very well. I took the truck for a drive down the road. All was great except for a flat spot on acceleration. I know the pump jet is good as the leather was replaced and I get a steady stream of fuel when push the throttle arm. If I feather the pedal the truck accelerates as per usual. Once up to speed the truck cruises quite nicely at 40-45mph.
With this confidence I took the truck on a drive for the OMVA showing at the Brantford Military Museum. It was a 126km round trip. No issues were encountered on the drive there and back. After the show I had a few guests come back to see the vehicles and the shop. It was a great catch-up with Barry and Stefan. Yes that’s Mr LWD Parts himself. Unfortunately my visit got cut short as I had to leave for a fire. Regardless it was great to see them both.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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