F60L Recent pics - Page 4

Ganmain Tony · #91 24-01-10, 02:51

Starting mount the driver & passenger foot well panels. Im using canvas webbing between the panels as well. Not too bad to fit. Ive been using a drill to cut holes for bolts to go through the webbing. I think It'll make a difference to the NVH (hope so anyway).

Did away with front engine oil filler. Cleaned up & painted original goose neck cab 12 one & fitted. Put correct choke/throttle base on Carbie. Suprisingly easy to change over.

Rest of the time I have been removing my fingerprints on the wire wheel.

cliff · #92 24-01-10, 05:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Rest of the time I have been removing my fingerprints on the wire wheel.

Tony is this because you don't want to leave your finger prints at the next border raid?

Mate the truck is looking great and it is easy to see where all that hard labor of yours has gone.

Ganmain Tony · #93 24-01-10, 10:03

Thanks Cliff,

Yes it is hard work - & I know all the guys on this forum have probably experienced it. By this I mean I realise I'm not Robinson Crusoe when it comes to the resto of a Blitz.

By Geez it is the most rewarding & fullfilling thing I have ever done in my life & can recommend it to anyone.

It is a test of patience, no doubt about that, but the end result.... amazing.

Incidentally Chaps, have I mounted the mirrors in right spot? Or can they go in either spot? Have a look at the photo's to see what I mean.

aj.lec · #94 24-01-10, 10:35

Doing a great job there Tony

Very nice work
I have a couple up here you can start on when you have finished yours

Ganmain Tony · #95 04-02-10, 00:18

Thanks for all the good vibes lads, much appreciated.

Need some hands on experience feedback to adjusting the clutch.

Ive got an interesting noise when the clutch pedal is fully pressed in and the Clutch disengaged, engine idling. Checked operation of thrust bearing - seems OK. Noise stops as soon as clutch pedal is released slightly, about 2cm at the top of the pedal.

Having trouble going into first. It will go in but it is grinding which makes me think the clutch is not fully disengaged. I was going to cut a bit more thread on the adjustment rod and bring the adjustment up further along the rod.

Any comments from those who have been here??

Phil Waterman · #96 04-02-10, 17:06

Hi Tony

Though my CMPs are all Chevys I played with a lot of Flat Head Fords. Know that you probably have thought of many of these but I offer the following observations.

1. If you hold your foot down on the clutch peddle for 15-30 seconds before moving the gear lever do you still get the crunch?
2. Do you get the crunch what ever gear you first try to go into?
3. Before you change the length of the threads on the clutch linkage, find your self a really good measuring point to see if the engine and transmission are moving fore and aft as you push on the clutch.
4. Are you to the point where you can drive the truck to see if there is a problem shifting between gears? If you are do you have trouble getting the truck out of first gear? This is a real indication that the clutch is not releasing all the way.
5. If you can determine that the clutch is truly not disengaging completely here are some possible causes (had some of these on my C60L) did you lubricate the throwout bearing inner slip area where it rides in and out on the transmission pilot? As the bell housing is integral to the engine and transmission and not a third separate part I doubt you have the alignment problem that Chevy can have that binds the pilot shaft bearing or bushing in the flywheel.
6. With the clutch fully depressed and the gear box in 4th gear (transfer case in neutral) how easy can you spin the short drive shaft between the transmission and transfer?

Cheers Phil

Howard · #97 04-02-10, 21:47

Clutch Problem Solved!
Clutch was over-adjusted, pushing far enough forward to pick up the clutch plate. Tony backed off the adjustment a little, and, hey presto!
Tony has also been for a drive yesterday! Pictures soon I hope...

Ganmain Tony · #98 04-02-10, 21:53

Sorted out the clutch issues. It was a simple rod adjustment but not tighter.
In fact I back it off a fair way (about 8 threads) and it is working very well.

Three things this has taught me.

Go away and have a think about it.

Back my ability as a mechanic more & have more faith in the quality of work I do.

Implement some solutions (especiallly the obvious ones) before bleating for help on MLU.

In any case - many thanks for the help Phil.

Exciting pictures to come - stay tuned.

Keith Webb · #99 04-02-10, 22:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Sorted out the clutch issues. It was a simple rod adjustment but not tighter.
In fact I back it off a fair way (about 8 threads) and it is working very well.

Three things this has taught me.

Go away and have a think about it.

Back my ability as a mechanic more & have more faith in the quality of work I do.

Implement some solutions (especiallly the obvious ones) before bleating for help on MLU.

In any case - many thanks for the help Phil.

Exciting pictures to come - stay tuned.

Fantastic news Tony!

I expect the pictures to show two of you to indicate being beside yourself with excitement.

I am sure we're all staying finely tuned for photographic evidence.

I thought the quality of your work evident in the pictures was sufficient to show your skills. Well done mate!

Phil Waterman · #**100** 04-02-10, 22:12

Hi Tony

Your point about going away and thinking about a problem rather that just keep trying to fix it is a wise one.

When I remember to do that, I try to write down all the things that it could be then when I go out to work on the truck I take the list and order all the possible fixes. Easiest to most difficult and then I start at the easy end of the list, sure beats pulling something all apart to discover it was a simple adjustment.

Looking forward to seeing more picture of your truck as you move along.

Cheers Phil

Ganmain Tony · #**101** 05-02-10, 13:33

Thanks Phil & Keefy for the encouraging words.

Pictures to update proceedings. I'll post the test drive & let you know how it went in the morning. Ive just got in & I'm stuffed.

Finally got stencil work completed. (ARN & wheel base numbers) This involved a lot of to-ing & fro-ing into the signwriters. I then got the F60L WB stencil on the panel to paint it to discover it was the wrong size!!!! Oh well, back into town again to sort it out. Extremely pleased I didnt just say 'stuff it' and use the incorrect size stencil but geez it took some force of will not too.

With the much appreciated assistance of Howard we put the radiator in to test the cooling system and check it for leaks. One of the water pumps init leaked but the seal took up once she warmed up. The other one has developed a weep out of one of the bolts.

Keith Webb · #**102** 05-02-10, 13:59

This shock picture shows an unidentified person unlawfully removing the radiator of Tony's Cab 12. Police so far have few clues but suspect it is an 'inside' job.
Suspicion falls on other cab 12 Fords in the Ganmain area.

cliff · #**103** 05-02-10, 20:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Finally got stencil work completed. (ARN & wheel base numbers) This involved a lot of to-ing & fro-ing into the signwriters. I then got the F60L WB stencil on the panel to paint it to discover it was the wrong size!!!! Oh well, back into town again to sort it out. Extremely pleased I didnt just say 'stuff it' and use the incorrect size stencil but geez it took some force of will not too.

All I can say is WOW!

As Others have said I cannot see a reason for you to doubt your work as it is excellent judging by the photos. I look forward to seeing a photo of the owner (you) standing in front of the finished truck at Corowa this year wearing a SH1T eating grin

Ganmain Tony · #**104** 05-02-10, 21:59

Thanks Cliff,

Some more for you fellahs.

Of note is the thrust bearing greaser. The old one had perished & was oozing grease every time you attempted to put some in it. So I had one made up. It works, but it is restricting the travel of the thrust bearing to its return position. So in desparation I wrapped the old one in elec tape, ran some grease through it & it worked OK.

The other shots are of the webbing I'm putting between the panels. It is very strong stuff & looks good on the truck as well. A bit tedious as you have to mark the bolt holes and then drill the material in order to get the bolts through.

Ken Hughes · #**105** 06-02-10, 19:30

Tony,you can cut holes in that webbing with a wad punch and using it on the end of a bit of square timber,not across the grain as it will blunt the wad punch,cheers ken hughes.

Ganmain Tony · #**106** 23-02-10, 22:06

The big day has arrived - thanks to Howard for the filming.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Jo0tlji-Po

Phil Waterman · #**107** 24-02-10, 01:02

Looks and sounds nice, notice that you were checking the brakes as soon as you had it moving.

Keep up the good work look forward to seeing more as you finish the project up.

Cheers Phil

zemsi · #**108** 24-02-10, 07:18

... and another video, just listen to THAT sound

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Glcyh6Xmb10

hrpearce · #**109** 24-02-10, 08:56

Great to see Tony

, unfortunately I carn't hear it as my computers sound has crashed

Your 12 looks to have more leg room than Keith's

Lynn Eades · #**110** 24-02-10, 11:11

Try a lighter hose like "push lock" hose. It wont have to take high pressure. You dont want much grease there or its going to end up on your clutch.
Is that webbing impregnated with anything? If not, it will hold water, and rot your good work.

Ganmain Tony · #**111** 24-02-10, 11:55

Thanks for the info Lynn.

Impregnate it with what though........any suggestions??

One of the problems I had was finding brass fittings suitable and more importantly small enough to do the job. Tested the original wrapped in elec tape by feeding the grease through with a grease gun. This obviously applied pressure and the tape held. I do realise over time the tape will lose its adhesive quality but it'll have to make do for the time being.

Appreciate all the help from everyone.

More pictures on You Tube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-MaKGrKveY

Bob Carriere · #**112** 25-02-10, 02:30

To properly impregnate the canvas tape you could use "creosote".... good luck finding some these days of environmental concerns... or "pine tar" which is used on the old wooden cross country skis..... again hardly what you would expect to find in a friendly Aussie hardware store......

OK... so what else is there.... that will be readily absorbed by the canvas.... not run and leave a mess at high temp...... stay soft and pliable.... and will last for at least 25 years....???

Any way of diluting silicone sealer to a semi liquid for the canvas to fully absorbe..?

I intend to use a flexible sticky rubber tape similar to what is used in windshield installations.... as we have serious rust potential here in salty Canada....

Suggestions welcomed...

Boob

Lionelgee · #**113** 25-02-10, 02:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

The big day has arrived - thanks to Howard for the filming.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Jo0tlji-Po

G'day Tony,

It was great to see and especially to hear your truck on the move. You have done a really great job.

Kind Regards
Lionel

hrpearce · #**114** 25-02-10, 08:21

Tony if you do want to seal the webbing a tin of oil for redressing dry as a bone coats should work without making a mess.

Ganmain Tony · #**115** 25-02-10, 09:59

Now Robert I reckon thats a bloody good idea!!!!!

I'll get some & give it a go!

After I finished sorting out this wiring loom. On a steep learning curve with it.

Ganmain Tony · #**116** 25-02-10, 16:08

Better shot of the truck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TXUNpsuKDY

Phil Waterman · #**117** 25-02-10, 19:40

Hi Tony

Third video is great, and concerning your earlier post on cutting holes. One of the tricks I use for cutting holes 1/4 to 3/4 in canvas, webbing, gasket material, paper, leather is by making up spin punches of various sizes. These are made from thin tubing any thing that can be fitted into the chuck of the drill press or hand drill. Just sharpen the cutting edge with a file by spinning the tube in the drill and lightly holding the file against the tube at an angle.

Then you can cut holes in almost any soft material by laying in on a soft piece of wood and lightly pushing the spinning punch against the material. I've found that the drill press works best, particularly if set at a higher speed, cuts a nice clean hole. Every now and then you have to stop and clean out the hole cuts in the tube.

I've even used rifle cartridges not as many cuts without re-sharpening as steel tubing. But with lots of old spent .44 and .303 casings around to use up why not, the spinning cartridge casing in the drill cuts a much neater hole then firing the bullet through the material.

Cheers Phil

Alex Blair (RIP) · #**118** 25-02-10, 19:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Better shot of the truck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TXUNpsuKDY

Tony
..Those are great vids Once you get on to double clutchin' you can chomp a big fat cee-gar and double clutch your way to Hollywood..
Fine camera work too..
Keep them up ....Have you got a manager and an agent yet..??

Ganmain Tony · #**119** 05-03-10, 03:27

Howdy all,

Well the truck is in at Wagga getting an exhaust system fitted. As close to original as possible.

Its raining a the moment so I'm catching up on some sleep after some very very long days these past 3 months.

So I thought I better post some photos of what's been going on while I have a spare second.

Thanks to Howard for his help this late Tuesday night and for taking the photos. Good grief I'm getting thin up top!!!!

Ganmain Tony · #**120** 05-03-10, 03:32

More pictures - luckily had very smooth run with putting this in and with the coachwork timber as well.