2007 at the Hammond Barn

[RHClarke]

Convincing...to me at least.

[mike mckinley]

hey rob....why not fill the holes with the mig welder??

[Barry Churcher]

I think Paul is right. The best fluid in my mind is 80/90 gear oil GL-1. You could also use GL-5 but it must say yellow metal safe. If it doesn’t it will have too much of the extreme pressure (EP) additives , sulphur and phosphorous, which over time attack any yellow metal in the units. I try to stay away from synthetic fluids unless specifically required for some of the newer vehicles. Changing the diff fluid on trucks without posi. up to about 2000 is NOT required under normal conditions. There is little heat to break down the oil. Outside contamination such as mud or water (usually 4X4s) makes changing the fluid necessary. Oil technology has advanced so much in the last 60 years that we can’t compare what was in the vehicle to what is available now.
Cheers,
Barry

[RHClarke]

Originally posted by mike mckinley
hey rob....why not fill the holes with the mig welder??

Mike,

Good idea. A lot more permanant than Bondo. However, I have not yet decided if I am going to add a tow hitch. If I do, and I have to remove the gussets, it is easier to pick out the Bondo if one of the bolts turns with the nut.

[Bob Carriere]

.... we can always weld a large nut to the round head if you want to remove them later.

Well as seen by Rob's picture of me sitting on the ground working on the T case.... I got it done.

I removed the entire E brake bracket....... slightly relieved the shart edges of the recess where the oil seal fits and working from a flat surface.....using a proper seal driver and some very silly cone I carefully seated the darn seal in place.

Living dangerously I refilled, I refilled the T case with the drained Sin-Thetic oil and......voila..... it has not leaked yet..... also took time to polish the yoke on the lathe..... maybe I got it licked.

Grant spent the better part of the weekend stripping down Ol' Red we dragged out of the far field.

Some interesting thing came out of the auto-psy...... although the serial ## palte is long gone some clues of its age were apparent....It seems to be a very early cab 13 because...

the floor plate on the driver's side si all in one piece with only a small opening for the master cylinder...later models had a removeable panel of about 8 by 12.

The rear shock linkages are small steering rods as opposed to the later cheaper solid steel rod.

The front dash tag makes reference to the MB-C1

The cab front support are rubber spaced as opposed to be steel springs.

..and the front axle is the early Heavy duty GM cast as opposed to the more traditional banjo.

Roof "had" a rectangular hatch.

Everything of possible value is being saved for future use.

Slowly we progress....... ever slowly.

Here is a picture of the driver's side floor all in one piece wtiha small access panel for the master Cyl.


Bob

[Bob Carriere]

in her bare bones.....

[Bob Carriere]

...was to retrieve the metal spacer hold the rear fo the cab....

This was learning experience to see how it was assembled with steel at the back with rubber spacer and 3 rubber spacer in the front.

all spacers had been cut form old tire casing....... when one counts the number of plyies in the old rubber spacers at elast a minimum of ten coarse frabic layers can be counted..... not what you would find in a more recent manufactured tire sidewall.

Our learning will be put to use when we install the cab on Grant's Wire 5 frame.

[RHClarke]

It was warm and muggy in Hammond this morning, so Bob and I decided to cut, split and stack about two cord of wood. Grant was out early but had to head back to Ottawa for work. He joined us later in the day. The rest of the day was spent doing small jobs including painting.

Here are the before shots:

[RHClarke]

And the during and after shots:

[RHClarke]

You will have to pardon the poor quality of photos...the wind changed while Bob was spraying the couplers, and some paint mist found its way onto the camera lens. Cleaning it was fun.

Grant joined us after the traditional Chez Marie breakie. The red truck is slowly losing weight, but the parts bins are filling up again.

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally posted by RHClarke
You will have to pardon the poor quality of photos...the wind changed while Bob was spraying the couplers, and some paint mist found its way onto the camera lens. Cleaning it was fun.

Grant joined us after the traditional Chez Marie breakie. The red truck is slowly losing weight, but the parts bins are filling up again.

Great photos RH and pleased to see Grant with "The right tool for the right job"..in his mit..
That carcass that he is eviserating looks more apt to be attacked with the "Red Wrench"....

[RHClarke]

Originally posted by Alex Blair
pleased to see Grant with "The right tool for the right job"..in his mit..

Alex,

No one, and I mean no one can remove CMP wheels with a set of pliers like Grant. Airforce background coming to the fore...

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally posted by RHClarke
Alex,

No one, and I mean no one can remove CMP wheels with a set of pliers like Grant. Airforce background coming to the fore...

RH.
That Grant lad never ceases to amaze///..
The poor underfunded Air Force must have the skills of wizzards after years of Liberal cutbacks to Air Force budgets as to pour more of the Federal Military alloted funds into the hands of our "Brown" brothers in arms,so that they that bear the brunt of "The boots on the Ground" have at least some comforts,some,not all,half decent hardwear...and a few extra $$$$$$ for doing miserable,dirty and dangerous work far from home and families ,so that we can carry on at home,some here hardly aware of the magnificent job our "Brown jobs",mainly are doing for Canada...
Not to belittle the job the Air force and our navy is doing abroad ,but the point of the spear is "Brown"..
Once again,hats off to Grant and his ability to turn his cheap-o pliers into a torque wrench..ratchet...box end wrench or hammer,almost at will..

[RHClarke]

Wierd day today. We ended up with about 2 mm of white stuff on the ground. Bob had to put on a hood and longsleeve shirt in order to play outside.

[RHClarke]

Not too much going on today. Grant continued to strip down the red truck and its component parts. We managed to move some of the old parts out to the shed for storage, and then went to Chez Marie for breakie.

After filling up on vittles, Bob commented on how hot it was getting - perfect weather for sandblasting. So we spent the rest of the afternoon adding to the beach. Luckily we got two seat pans, two wheel rims and most of Bob's floor plate blasted before we ran out of sand. We will be making a run for more sand in the near future.

Bob and Grant returned late last night from the Barrie Antique Flea Market, so we took it easy today. Bob should be posting a shot of his reassembled coupler...

[Grant Bowker]

Yesterday dawned too early for me to actually see it but it was another clear day. The day started picking up a load of pallets for feeding the BB bonfire. By the time BB gets here, we will be able to have serious fire unless Bob issues a directive to stop hiding the property under piles of pallets.
Next on the agenda, unload a tonne +/- pallet of quartz sand to feed the sandblaster and eventually aid in creating the Hammond beach. The small breeze was welcomed, temperatures were climbing.
Next project, roll Rob and Bob's frames out of the barn to give a coat of paint to the front part of Bob's frame (the CMP, not his person) to cover newly added parts, scratches etc. to get ready for the next phase which will mount the engine, transmission, brake lines etc in preparation for the part-by-part buildup of the cab (recalling that Cab 11s are not as convenient as the Cab 13 that lets the cab go on as a unit).
The frame was given a solvent wash to remove dust and grease that would have diminished the not too high gloss finish that Bob was aiming for (actually, no gloss at all) and then breakfast/lunch was declared to allow a complete dry off.
On return the bonding primer, followed by OD were applied.

[Grant Bowker]

By now the temperature had hit 30°C still under a cloudless sky, as far as we could see between the trees, so you know the paint was drying quickly. Terrible conditions if we had been trying for a high gloss show finish, but we weren't.
While Bob was cleaning the spray gun after turning everything green, Joyce came out to the barn to ask if we had seen the evil coloured clouds to the East. Local lore is that if the storm comes in from the east it will be a serios one. Since we hadn't seen the clouds we hadn't been worried but they did look as if there might have been serious wet in them once we looked. More by luck than by skill, the clouds went South around us, sparing the new paint job. We let the paint set a bit more and moved on to small jobs, checking a master cylinder (it'll need sleeving), trying to free up the power brake linkage (limited success), rebuilding the spring linkage for a parking brake, checking bob's Cab 11 pedal cluster (all good), cleaning up more parts etc.
Before and end of day beer or two in celebration, the frames were put back into the barn.
I took before and during shots, Bob took the after. He's probably just waiting for parts 1 and 2 to be posted to put up part 3.

[RHClarke]

Nice work Bob and Grant. I wish I was there on Saturday. However, domestic duties overrule CMP stuff...occasionally!

On Sunday we took advantage of the mixed weather (hot and humid) to do some more blastification. I finally finished up my two front rims and Bobbie cleaned his cab floor panels, a set of pedals, a control arm of some nature and other litttle bits. The sandblaster worked wonders today. Everything went really well - of course it did, we couldn't take the heat and had to quit around 3:00 PM.

Here is a shot of a rim piece before sandblasting:

[RHClarke]

This is what the rims looked like after sandblasting and a coat of paint (whatever was handy was used...):

[RHClarke]

Mystery time.

Bob and I spent a few hours and plenty of brake fluid trying to purge the brake lines on the HUP. No matter what we did, we ended up with more bubbles and marginal resistance on the brake pedal. The junctions were well and truely tightened and did not leak after the proper attention was paid to them. We did the recommended bleeding procedure found in any of the many Alex Blair Manuals, but came up short.

I think that the master cylinder is not fully sealed and induces air. Next weekend I will be tearing it apart to make sure that it was assembled correctly... Any other thoughts?

[cmperry4]

Exactly what's been vexing me with the Land Rover clutch - my solution, buy new stuff.

[Bob Carriere]

As Rob mentioned once we had the few leakes resolved by properly thightening a few spots things went well......

I have a suspicion that the master which was rebuilt at the barn may not be functioning properly. We spent voer half a gallon of brake fluid to bleed extensively. At the end of the exercise the lquide had no bubles coming out......BUT.... the pedal wehn pressed by hand would go slowly to the floor. You can feel the brake linings pressing on the drums and the tires twitch somewhat....... trying to push the frame by hand shows that the lining are in fact moving and locking the wheels.

Based on my experience with older vehicles such as the M37 whenthat happens it is usually a sign that the master cylinder is in fact pushing brake fluid down the lines but that the master is leaking internally and preventing the pressure to build up.

It could as simple as adjusting the screwed in push rod to the master or it needs a full rebuild. We had taken care to polish the inside of the master.... which had already been sleeved with a brass insert..... we polished using a home made device made from numerous circular discs cut out of a soft 3M pad and mounted on a 3/8 threaded rod. The polishing device was then inserted in the drill press and the MC was held by hand and moved up and down. The resulting shine on the brass sleeve encouraged us to proceed with the reassembly using a kit Rob had purchased.

Next step is definitely to remove and disassemble the master to make sure all the parts are in there in the proper sequence.

Stay tuned.

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

Here is the finished product......

The POR 15 coating on the front axle is so hard that regular paint will not stick to it properly without using a special self hetching primer..... so one coat of hetching primer and 2 coats of Gillespie OD 34087 flat WW II.....

[Bob Carriere]

Sure looks nice with no greasy finger prints on it.....

Dig those fancy stands I purchased at a garage sale for $5 each...

Tyres went back on easy with Grant and I holding up the wheel while the wife screwed on the wheels nuts....... she sure had a hard time with the lefties until we let her in on the secret....

Frame is now ready to drop in the engine and do the brake lines...... after Rob's experience I am a bit nervous....

Baby should be running by BB 2 and will make a video debut....

Floor has been POR coated.... now need to make templates for the wooden spacers.... probably white ash.... milled locally to the required thickness and pre-sealed with POR as well. I am lucky to have saved on full side from Don's old cab 12...... tempplates will be made available to interested parties.......

By the way...Phil.... what did you use for your wood...???

Boob

[mike mckinley]

hi bob

the truck is looking great!! funny you mention wood cab spacers, my truck still had the four under the cab, and three wedged between the rails on the rear of the frame. the two short ones under the cab survived the years quite well, as did the rear channel spacers, but the long ones under the cab were rotted out. someone made the comment that rather than replace with wood, that i should use conveyer belt rubber, but ashwood will be my choice i think. mike

[Bob Carriere]

Here is a pic of the wood I salvaged from the cab 12......
I superimposed on my cab 11 with the bolt holes lined up..... notice that wood is in two seperate sections

The wood is either ash or oak as the grain is fairly open typical of that type of wood. I realize the wood I have is very very dry and compressed by the cab with time....so my assumption is that the remaining 1/2 to 9/16 thick wood may have been 5/8 of an inch when new......... comments????

A lot of rust is localized in and around the wood spacer....for example the only place the 1/4 inch floor plate is pitted with rust is where the wood touched..... also the bolts that went through the wood were all rusted to the shape of an hour glass....some snapped very easily..... I propose to totally saturate my wood piece with POR 15 taking care to insure the walls of the predrilled bolt holes are also fully sealed. The pitted areas of the floor plate is already sealed with POR.

Comments and suggestions welcomed.......

BooB

[Phil Waterman]

Originally posted by Bob Carriere
Sure looks nice with no greasy finger prints on it.....

.......

By the way...Phil.... what did you use for your wood...???

Boob

Oak, salvaged from shipping pallets. Though I just used mahogany decking boards for the two wood spacers that go between the body and chassis on the Pattern 12

[Bob Carriere]

.....looks mean without the roof......

What is the origine of the cargo box and how extensively modified is it....... did you reduce the width...?

did you use the wooden spacers on the between the seat rails and the floor...??? I am going to try doing without ( or reduced in half) to get a bit more head room and to take the wiper motor out of my line of sight.....

Did you set up your brake booster..??? pitfalls..suggestions...!!!

Hotter then he** here today.... how do I know??? my first marriage!!!!

Boob

[Bob Carriere]

How thick a piece of oak did you use...????

Cheers

[Phil Waterman]

Originally posted by Bob Carriere
How thick a piece of oak did you use...????

Cheers

Hi Bob

The seat spacers are 14” long by 2 ¾” wide. The drivers side has one spacer 1 ½” thick and 1” thick spacers for a height of 2 ½”. ( the measurements are actual not lumber yards size) The passenger side (on my truck) had only one 1”thick spacer. There is also a cut out in all the spacers 1” diameter center 3” from one end this is to clear a bolt in the floor only needed on one of the spacers but all have the cut out.