Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

I make what I can't find or afford.

Every now and then a small but esential piece falls into my hands.

My most desirable item is the full sight mount assembly. I know of one in UK for sale, and if still available next tax return time, I'll buy it. It's an expensive item, and very heavy to ship, so I wouldn't get much change from $1000 to $1200. If not able to get it, I will make something of a very poor second, and fashion a canvas cover to hide my sins.

[Private_collector]

No rain today........, just windy. Too windy to paint.

So off to Tiaro I went again, to take more photos and measurements of my local 25pr. A round trip of 50-60km is local in this country. As can be seen, this dear old gun has not escaped the notice of vandals. I was tempted to straighten the lugs that sight case straps should attach to, but feared the paint would flake off and start rust forming. Last time I visited this piece, I removed a premixed can of booze from inside muzzle. It was either half full of alcohol still, or had been 'refilled' with piddle. I didn't take a sniff.

I'm always amazed that nobody has asked me what the hell I am doing when I loiter and start throwing a tape measure around the gun.
Next weekend I will cut the barrel/recoup. apeture. I will, that is, unless I'm lucky enough to paint some wheels instead.

Cliff, please read below!
On Friday I called on an old timer about 20 minutes away, to remove some sutures. I had visited him many months ago, and we got to talking about vintage vehicles. He showed me his 1940s Morris truck and I showed some photos of my green CMP (didn't have the grey one then). When I saw him last week, he indicated he recently mentioned me to another local guy who once had a sawmill, now defunct. He asked about a CMP which had been used at the sawmill, and was told it was still around and residing behind the owners house. My 'snout' asked what the guy was intending to do with the truck, seeing that it has sat insitu for a number of years. Long story short, the owner reckons it's better for someone else to have it than sit there rotting away, so it has been offered to me......for nothing! It's only about 15km away, but is a non-runner, so will have to be trailered. If it is the one I saw briefly a couple of years ago, it's an early cab type, so that's a first for me. Mrs B is NOT pleased about the thought of another carcass languishing in the back yard. To be quite honest, I would rather it sat in the FRONT yard, as a piece of art, but that proposition brought only a rather animated response in the negative. No taste, some people.

Attn. Cliff: Yes, I do believe the ahove truck is the very same one we were talking about a couple of months ago. And maybe you can drive up and have a look in my workshop soon????

[cliff]

soon Tony soon! Maybe when we go for a 15km drive and pick up MY truck!

[Private_collector]

Hello Folks!

Bought a Graphtec vinyl sign cutter today. No more paying people to do my stencils and vehicle signage. It's not new, in fact it is nearly two decades old, but is a good quality machine. Would have been for professional use in the days of WIN98! Came with the computer system it runs on, and all the software disks (3.5"), as well as the manuals and extra font libraries.

Also came with a number of part rolls of vinyl film.
In the early 90s I ran a small sign and graphics printing business as a side line to my 'day job'. Perhaps you read my how to book, entitled The Underachievers Guide to Extremely Small Business!

Ah, it was simpler times then!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Just because it's old doesn't mean it doesn't work good, just look at us.


Good find, should be fun to experiment with and a useful tool. WIN 98 my shop computer has WIN 2000 still works fine, just don't connect it to the Web or load any updates. Old computers are amazingly stable as long as they are left alone.

Look forward to seeing how it works cutting painting stencils.

Cheers Phil

[David Dunlop]

Hmmm. I wonder if my wife's new Cricut stencil cutter would work for this stuff? She bought it for crafting. Guess I need to get crafty and try it out next time she's off shopping.

[Private_collector]

Hi David,

I had not heard about Cricut stencil cutters until you wrote about it. Having now looked into these on internet, I don't see why it couldn't be used to make vehicle stencils. From what I have read, they take a fairly small sheet of stencil material, but that material is specifically for stencil use so should be absolutely ideal! I suppose two sheets could be joined end to end to make longer stencils. I would give it a try. Could be quite a revelation for other folks, who want to do the same thing. If you do get to play with it, please let me know what you think.

Phil, I'm really excited about getting my sign cutter. It virtually fell into my lap, courtesy of my friend (and fellow MLU member) Andy Cusworth. It belonged to the Father of a friend of his. The Father used it commercially, both in UK and in Aus after he emigrated. Unfortunately he passed away several months ago, and the cutter was part of the estate. The entire setup cost me $200AUD. I think the rolls of vinyl that came with the cutter are probably worth almost the full purchase price. If you look at it that way, I bought the vinyl rolls and got the cutter and computer thrown in for free!

Over a year ago, I bought a stencil set from a UK company. It was reusable, and if memory serves me right, the materal was called Oilboard. It doesn't seem to have adhesive, or if it does it is VERY low tack. Might just be surface tension that keeps it snuggly attached to the surface. I used it to spray 'over filling' warnings onto the fuel tanks and it worked really well. The Cricut machine David spoke of would be better suited to making those than my cutter, that's why I am keen to hear how any test goes. With my machine, you would weed away the actual letters/numbers, leaving the surrounding vinyl to be applied to the surface. You spray onto the surface, then remove the 'negative' sign background once finished, leaving painted writing instead of vinyl stickers. To use this method you MUST ensure the paint adheres well to the panel or removing the stencil vinyl will also take off your paint. Good prep work prior to the paint job takes care of that, so should not present as an issue. There are low tack materials you can use, and I recommend use of this. Unfortunately they are single use only.

I'm always amazed how much businesses are charging for computer-cut signage. It is really easy to produce, and takes virtually no time at all, especially if you request an existing font. The catch is, of course, that the cutting machines are not something most people have lying around, so they know they can charge big $£€ for what really is a very quick, simple, and cheap product.

[Private_collector]

David,

Been looking into Cricut machine capabilities, and see it should be able to do stencils, provided you use a deep-cut blade. Oilboard would allow you to do multiple stencils from a single piece of board, BUT it seems to be quite elusive for purchase online. At least it is hard to find in blank sheet form, and in a size suitable for Cricut. For that matter, I didn't see any suitable for my machine either. Using paint-mask film will give you exactly the finished product needed to do vehicle numbers or lettering. You just can't reuse it.. I've not used paint-mask yet, but am keen to try it when I can.

Added 1715hrs: Oilboard sheets and rolls available here http://www.hittmarking.com/category/...ets-and-rolls/

[Private_collector]

There are a couple of things which need to be done to the sign cutter before I will be able to use it. One issue in particular requires diagnostic assessment that I just can't do myself, so a local egg-head is doing the testing for me. The LCD display shows scrambled characters instead of English. My computer guy says that could either be an easy fix, OR the LCD board may need replacement. Wonderful! I called the manufacturer, they don't have parts for 'legacy' machines such as mine. Legacy?? Why don't they just say old, ancient, un-new, relic....

The day I bought my cutter, I saw that the pinch rollers x2 were perishing and coming apart. I put a sheet of light cardboard through the cutter on Sunday night, and the moment the rollers turned one flew apart, the other turned to a sticky mess of stinky black cheese that thoroughly coated the cardboad and eventually the metal roller beneath it (after the card shot out of the cutter). Methinks it had sat idle for some length of time! 5 min on ebay found me new rollers, $10 for a pair. I removed all the rubber mush from the old ones, in case I needed to 'sleeve' them with fresh rubber of a suitable size. Automotive oil/fuel/water hose would do the trick, but I won't need to worry about that now.

Hmmmmm, what should I make first, when the cutter is ready to go. (I'm remaining optomistic!!)

Legacy, bah!

P.S: The sunshine cab roof is now with the local sandblasters, and will be ready for me to pickup on Thursday. If I paint insides of my other set of wheels tomorrow, they will be ready to paint the outsides on Friday, hopefully as I am also painting the roof. Happy days.

[motto]

A few years ago I purchased a couple of Marsh stencil cutters 3/4" and 1". The machines were ex government, I believe they came from the Ordnance Factory Maribyrnong. The deal included a number of rolls of paper weighing about 60 pounds each. The rolls are approximately 2' diameter and 10" wide. I have sold some rolls already at $100 each but still have some that I am prepared to sell if anyone is interested.

David

[Private_collector]

I'm interested, David.

What are they made of, and are they reusable?

I will need to check my cutter can cut all the way through first, and I can't do that until I get my replacement pinch rollers. That may be a week or so.

[motto]

Best we make sure it's suitable for your purpose Tony. Coming in roll form it has a natural curve and doesn't sit flat but there are ways of getting around that. One simple method is to punch 1/2" holes at certain points and put masking tape over them, you then place the stencil where you want it and press the tape to secure it. Other than that cut a number of lengths and place them between boards or plywood for some time before use.
PM your mailing address and I will send you some to play around with.

David

[Private_collector]

Cool, David! Ta very much. Awfully nice of you. Don't send too much. I'll probably balls it up anyway.

The following is an email I sent to a friend of mine. After I sent it, I thought you folks might find it enjoyable too.

Well I spent $55 on computer examination, only to be told the bits I thought were shagged......actually were shagged! Excellent detective work, guys.

Here is how today unfolded. Sit down and get yourself comfortable.

CD Drive is buggered. New ones are different type, won't work. They don't make the correct ones any more, and they don't have any second hand ones.

Hard Disk is good. Yippee. Unfortunately Windows is corrupted and needs reloading. I don't have the disks, and if I did, they would be a CD rom, which doesn't work. If CD did work, can't register old versions of Windows anymore for two reasons.
First reason - they don't have licence to sell old windows versions.
Second reason - the windows site to register old versions has been shut down.

This means even if I DID get a new disk, and if the CD rom DID work, and if the computer guys DID have a licence to sell them, I STILL COULDN'T REGISTER THE SOFTWARE, so it wouldn't be any use!!!!

Moving on. I went to another shop that sells obsolete computers and parts, and asked for an IDE type CD rom. Was given one, and paid $50 for the privilege. Took it back to the guys that had my computer, and gave it to them to install. At this point I had just about had a gut full of the whole process, so you can imagine how I felt when the guy picked up the CD rom and promptly exclaimed.......it wasn't an IDE drive at all. It was a SATA (or something similar). I took it back to the place I purchased it from and got my money back.

By this point, it was looking ever increasingly like that computer wouldn't be getting used for anything. They did have some second hand computers for sale, but none that had the parallel port I needed, so they weren't considered an option either.

I go back to searching forums for problems documented on the type of cutter I have, and hope to see a glimmer of hope in the replies to those problems. I find several similar complaints about modern computers not having a parallel port, which means the cutter can't be used. After reading all of these, I see a common theme, where an adaptor cable has been used. This cable, instead of parallel to parallel, is USB on computer end and parallel on printer/cutter end. Hmmmmm. I ring every computer place in town (OK, well maybe I missed a couple) to ask for one. Nobody has one. Some didn't know such a thing exists! Damn. I ask the original computer store if they can get me one. They can, but can't let me know ahead of time how much that would be, because the worker with password to THEIR SYSTEM is out of the office and they can't unlock the computer they order with. About this time I'm really having doubts about these guys, though they were to redeem themselves in a minute or so (in two VERY DRAMATIC ways actually). They suggested I try the local electronics shop, they 'usually have everything'. The other redeem nearly saw me give him a kiss on the lips, but I resisted, as he probably hadn't kissed anyone since he became an IT nerd anyway. He casually mentions, oh yeah, nearly forgot, we found what was wrong with the cutter AND FIXED IT! Nice one lad. At some stage, vermin had gotten into the case of the cutter and gnawed two wires. The wires were easily repaired with a soldering iron. No charge. CUTTER IS NOW FIXED, although I still need to replace the pinch roller, but that will seem an anti climax compared to todays adventures.

With fresh vigor in my step, I go to the electronics shop. I ask for the desired cable, and one is taken down from the shelf. Bugger me. After the quickest trip home since we moved there, I start what will be a lazy 2 hours trying to get the appropriate device driver to work. After running several diagnostic tests (within the cutting sortware I had bought) the cutter comes to life and commences what I call a "phantom" cut. I had removed the cutting pen, and covered the sensor that detects the roll of vinyl, so it would think things were right to commence cutting.

All in all a painful day, but a VERY satisfying end to that day. Once the new pinch rollers arrive, I'm set to start using the machine. I will use the wait time to familiarise myself with the software and the cutter user manual.

Stencils anyone?

Tony Baker

[David Dunlop]

Just love the spin off information on stencilling recently developing in this thread! Do you think it might be worth our asking the trusty Mods to set up a new "Stencilling Information" thread to move this information to? As a topic, it may really take off, and it might benefit being a resource in its own for all of us.

Hope you are having a good Spring before things start to get toasty down there again.

Cheers,

David

[David Dunlop]

Forgot to mention, Tony, I love your Field Gun project! It is looking VERY impressive! If you were building it here in Canada, you'd probably be arrested.

[Private_collector]

Thank you for the kind words, David. I agree, a stencilling/sign making thread would be a good idea. Anyone can kick the thread off. I might do that myself, once I get the new rollers for the cutter, and actually have something for show and tell. I fear mail delivery may be like a watched kettle. It never boils, or in my case the package is painfully slow to arrive. In over 700 items purchased online, I have only lost one in transit. Bet the pinch rollers become number 2. You watch!

I wish the weather would get all the rain out of the way, then fine up. Been drizzling here, off and on, for the last.........well, roughly ever since I got my CMP wheels bck from the sandblaster.

So, with time on my hands, I started playing around with making designs on the graphics software. The above image was modified from a JPG file, so that it could be cut with my machine. Although it is not applicable for my trucks, I will print a couple of small copies when able. The combination of dead straight lines, sharp points, and long curves will show up any calibration and alignment issues with the cutter. Apologies that the two photos look like I took them through a screen door. It's the combination of computer screen and digital camera.

I just came across this 9th Division sign in my photos, so I'll have a go at tidying it up tonight.

[Private_collector]

Between drizzles, I made a run into town to get my Sunshine Roof back from the sandblasters. I am always very satisfied with my blaster. Everything is ready when promised, and the quality of work is great. When I took the roof there on Tuesday, Glen the owner, was in the process of dabbing black paint onto back edges of bolt heads and behind brackets of a truck chassis they had blasted and painted. Only a man who takes pride in his work would be bothered doing this. I didn't say anything, but was suitably impressed.

I knew there was one or two dents on the roof, but the smoothly primed surface now reveals a few other small knocks I was previously unaware of. I will need to be careful I don't 'repair' any of the spot welds or areas which appear to have been there since manufacture. For example, the third photo shows front passenger side corner of the roof. One or the two visible imperfections is an acquired dent, the other is a buckle in the panel, which looks like this occured during welding process. That one is raised up, not pushed in like wear and tear damage would be. One I will repair, the other stays as it is. It'll be covered by either canvas, or the metal piece that tensions the canvas (with 2x wing nuts, to tighten).

Some of the spot welding is pretty average. I intend to drip-check the gutters, so they can't rust again. I know it's not authentic, but will avoid those unsightly corrosion stains. Nobody wants those pesky stains anywhere, right!

[Richard Seymour]

If you can come up with a 9th division stencil I will be happy to purchase one from you

[Private_collector]

Drove the grey truck into town this morning, to treat it to a pair of new batteries (as it turned out!). While there, I looked into having a wheel alignment done some time in near future. They did a preliminary check of all the components which might impact on alignment success. They found most things OK, but (and there is ALWAYS a but) there is play in noth king pins and a moderate amount in the steering box itself. The steering box issue I had already known about, but king pin wear was somewhat of a surprise.

Can anyone tell me a spurce for King pin bearings and/or bushes for the Ford 4x2 CMP, please? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Alternatively, if someone can tell me the measurements of the pins, bearings, and/or bushes, I can start scrounging for them.

On the brighter side, the truck actually sounds like is WANTS to fire up and get going, since the new batteries went in.

Thanks,

[cliff]

Tony I think the kingpins and axle are the same as the 1940/41 Ford civilian models so maybe one of the rear Ford spares places can help?

[Private_collector]

Thanks Cliff, I have seen some on ebay, but was hesitant. I've bought things in past which have subsequently proven to be incorrect.


After lunch (and a brief nap) I made and attached the two cross braces for the rear of the gun shield. With a little daylight to spare, I started cutting out the main opening. Got the rough work done, and a small amount of finishing work. I managed to burn out a grinder doing the initial work. It won't be coming back to life, I wouldn't think. The filing required to get everything neat, is painful. I'll sleep well tonight.

My apologies, the photos are not great quality. I took them in a hurry.

[Private_collector]

I'm looking at this item on ebay:
NOS Toledo King Pin K97 For 38, 40-47 And 42 Ford Various Model Big Truckshttp://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Toledo-K...tSt2fO&vxp=mtr

Sounds right, but K97 doesn't mean anything to me. Add even mentions military trucks, but not CMP. Are these correct for 4x2 Ford blitz?

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Tony,

The Ford part no. for the king pin is 81T 3115 for the 15-cwt and named "Bolt-spindle".
81T 3123A is the "Bearing-spindle bolt (Timken #T113 and Nice #5883)".
That may help in your search?

[Private_collector]

Thankyou Hanno, those numbers tell me the set/s I have been looking at on ebay are not correct for my vehicle. Each listing has different identification methods that do not necessarily include original Ford part number.

This one has a kit number and bolt width is listed as 1+1/8". No mention of bolt length! Bolt part no. is indicated as 81T-3111, so I know that doesn't match. There is a VERY broad range of vehicles stated as compatible, including some "1942 Army models"


This listing has modern kit number, and two measurements given, which I guess must be the bolt. At.0.822" x 5.860", I assume that is the bolt dimensions, BUT they are different to the first listing.

I'm finding all this quite confusing, as there is some overlap in stated compatibility, but when you look closer.......they are entirely different sizes!?!?! I suppose one could be oversize, but thats a big difference isn't it.

[Lionelgee]

Hello Tony,

Would the military spare parts bloke in Hervey Bay have the part, or at least know which is the correct part and where to get it from?

I cannot remember the person's name however I think you have mentioned that you have bought stuff off him before?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[John Mackie]

81T 3115 is the part number for ONE king pin..the length is 7.10 "

81T 3111 is the part number for king pin kit, 2 pins and all the necessary parts. fits 41-6-7 and possibly earlier.

I am aware that the front axle on the F15 is different to the civy trucks but the stub axles and king pins fit right through.

[Private_collector]

John, I could kiss ya! Thank you for clearing that up for me.
I will go ahead and order the kit I was watching on ebay.
I always have anxiety when ordering things that I know only enough about to get into trouble.
Much appreciated.

Lionel, it's Ross Prince you are thinking of. He deals mostly in NOS parts. I prefer to go for new if possible, these days anyway. Been caught out with NOS on ebay a while ago, which were age deteriorated and probably should have been discarded........but then I came along. I suspect I have an unpleasent surprise waiting for me in the future. I used NOS leather seals on one area of my rear axle. Now that iI know slightly more than those days (but not much) I would NEVER use NOS seals unless dire need.


Finished the gun shield this morning. Attention now turns to getting all the equipment brackets made and attached. I don't have a guillotine or good folder, so someone else will do that job. I have templates of each part needed, so it will be an easy task. The seat bracket will be made at the same time.


Started searching for, and downloading, any artwork which may be useful for future sign cutting. The RAEME one should look nice. I didn't know what each countrys dept of defence marking looked like until I found this graphic. It will come in handy for stencil making.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by John 4172

81T 3115 is the part number for ONE king pin..the length is 7.10 "

81T 3111 is the part number for king pin kit, 2 pins and all the necessary parts. fits 41-6-7 and possibly earlier.

I am aware that the front axle on the F15 is different to the civy trucks but the stub axles and king pins fit right through.

John, thanks for adding the part number for the king pin kit.

I will copy this info to the Parts/Sources/Prices subforum.

[cliff]

Tony pop in one day and I will give you a CD of most of the Aussie Tac signs for you to use as well as a few others including NZ ones.

[Private_collector]

Cool, thanks Cliff!