Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Found a better switch plate this morning and started repairing it.
There were two holes in the lower switch area where a strange looking thing was screwed into place, possibly a piezo buzzer?

After exposing clean metal, I silver soldered the two holes as best I could. One came up OK but the other one was drilled right through the "ON" script, and I did best I could but didn't get the writing rebuilt properly.

Once painted and attached, it doesnt look too obvious, but still catches my eye anyway.

Switches are yet to be purchased. As per previous posting, I hope to be obtaining a set of correct ones...........any day now.......maybe.

Is this hole original? All of my dashs have this same hole, in the same place, BUT the hole is not neat like all the others. It is quite jaggedy and does not look professional, though all these holes appear to have the aux power plug socket.

It was initially disappointing that I couldn't repair the enlarged hole in the smaller switch plate. This may actually be a bit of a blessing in disguise, because I did want to have a keyed ignition barrel so I could disable easily and better. Ironically, the 'buggered up' hole had an ignition key barrel in place. No key of course, and no wiring terminals. The plate says "IGNITION" & "ON" already, so it saves me the work of drilling I guess. I'm kidding, I could never drill through a good switch plate!

Are the data plates that attach to the top of dashboard meant to be aluminium finish or painted color of the dash????

P.S: The shiny screws on the small switch plate are only temporary.

Now to troll ebay for an ignition barrel (and key).

[Private_collector]

Just bought an F15 Spare Parts List for $41AUD.

God bless ebay............and patience!

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Now to troll ebay for an ignition barrel (and key).

They did not have keys, just an ignition switch.

The F15 parts book is a nice find.

[Private_collector]

Hi Keith,

I should clarify, I am looking for a key lock to use in the enlarged hole (by a previous owner), as a way for disabling when unattended. It was a decision I came to, knowing that this particular switch plate could not be brought back to condition as manufactured.

It's one of a few modernising modifications to be done. Another is to add seatbelts when ready for that stage..................in 2023ish!

[Ryan]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Attachment 46608 Attachment 46609 Attachment 46610 Attachment 46611 Attachment 46612
Just bought an F15 Spare Parts List for $41AUD.

God bless ebay............and patience!

Hmm, must have slipped under my radar. Was it on Oz ebay or overseas?

[Private_collector]

Ryan,

It was an overseas listing.

Heading for the auction was a very vague description and would not have been found under "Blitz", "CMP" or similar searches.

Luckily for me, I specialise in 'Vague"!!!

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by Private_collector;158706[ATTACH

46227[/ATTACH]
Can someone please tell me if the irregular shaped hole, second from the right, is original or a bodge job in later life. It does have bolt holes tapped in the floor plate but it doesn't look as 'neat' as the work on the other holes. It doesn't have any support plates or other things underneath it either.

Tony did you find a patch for the hole. If not a trip to a tractor wreckers might help. The foot plates on old Fiats and pedals on Zetors have the same patern.

[Private_collector]

Robert,

Thanks for that!

I hadn't found a suitable piece for floor plate yet, so you information was very much welcomed.

[Private_collector]

Still waiting on a decision from a friend, regarding correct CMP dash switches. In the meantime, and working on worst case scenario, and I have ordered modern toggle switches from local supplier. Simple 'bat' handle ones. They will do until correct ones are obtained. I went to the local Dick Smith electronics store, and after I searched the store I was told they don't "do electronics parts" any more. Whats happening to the world when DS Elecs stop selling resistors, diodes, switches and a whole heap of other stuff I don't know how to spell? Come back Dick, all's forgiven!!!

Anyhow.....the Ford F15 parts manual arrived yesterday. Bloody good read though it smells like once owned by a chain-smoker. Small price to pay.

A new starter switch was ordered and arrived earlier in the week. It is a much thinner construction and ever so slightly larger in the body in comparisn to the original. I'm not too impressed with the feel of button when pushed either, so it won't be used. I'll keep looking for a NOS one.

A keyed ignition switch has been ordered from USA. It's sole purpose is to allow power to be switched on/off, to give piece of mind and greater security.

On Sunday I made this wheeled (castored) frame to put the cab base on. The blasting has been on hold while we were experiencing the recent wet weather. Cab base and floor panels should be ready for me this Saturday. I hope to get it under paint on Sunday, all going well. Will need to do some bumping to both wheel arches first, to level several very small dents made from the inside. Possibly ill treatment from some farmer in last 50+ years, but I prefer to think they are caused by the hob nails & steel plates from a soldiers boot!

The cab 'dolly' will have two rails placed on the little cradles at top of the uprights. Cab base will sit on these rails while I work on it & assemble cab back, doors, dash, windscreen frame and nose panel, etc... When ready, it will be hoisted onto chassis as one piece, using the rails as lifting points.

I have had some success with refining a method of having dash switch plates which are both truck color and have black highlight detail in the appropriate areas. It's lucky I have a second 'bad' large plate to play with and get this right. This is still a work in progress. The photo shows a trial of primer with black over. Primer being the substitute 'green' color, of course. I wanted to see what the black areas would look like if surrounds sanded, and also how the whole thing would look if I wanted to sand right back to brass with just the black detail. It's not a pretty picture, but is only for experimentation purposes. Will be stripped with thinners & done again in the true method.

[Private_collector]

This afternoon, I took some time to remove old paint & rust scale from the cab rear panel. Prior to stripping, I could feel many wavy areas and feared what I may find once surface cleaned. The majority of the 'wibbles' were actually the spot welds, therefore not as bad overall as I expected. The trolley for cab base has come in handy as a good support with great accessability to both sides, while dents are being beaten. I was hoping to have the cab floor on this trolley today, but I didn't get time to retrieve it from sandblaster on Saturday.

These holes for the rifle holding bracket (upper) seem to be intentionally recessed. Are the bolts for these similar to floor bolts? The proximity to top of the panel suggests they may have been recessed so the roof panel would sit over them. Is this correct?

This is the remains of the twisted wire cup I used to strip the paint. It was about 85% when I started. I broke the last few strands as I removed the final square inch of crap. I believe I got my moneys worth out of it! Have found these stripping wheels work exceptionally well, if a little scary to use.

P.S: The black color is etch primer. Once dents are repaired, it will go to sandblaster. I am hoping not to need filler on the repairs. Time will tell!

[Private_collector]

Well........now that the auction is ended and I have won it, I can tell you about this great piece of Ford history. A book which seems to have been presented to the workers of the Ford factory, as a token of thanks (see the photo of letter).

This book has ALL THE ADVERTISEMENTS Ford had published, apparently.

I have been sweating on this auction ending, for the last few days. There were a number of other bidders, but I feel this book is so rare now & so significant (especially with the original letter still with it), that I had to have it at any cost!!!!

The following is from the auction listing:

FORD OF CANADA IN WARTIME produced by The Ford Motor Company of Canada, Limited. It is a rare book put out by Ford Motors of Canada containing the Ford institute advertisements art prints.As far as I can tell it was never put up for sale commercially, but given out as gifts. The original letter found just inside the cover is on Ford letterhead and dated August 12, 1946. Obviously typed out on an antique typewriter. Letter is Signed (by fountain pen) by W.H. Clark: G.S. , Personnel Manager.Collection of Advertisements published from 1941 to 1943, used to both inform and maintain moral. Published in a reduced size from the original Ads and brought together in book form. The written content is action packed and full of statistics of the mechanized war. See the following quotes:

"Thousands upon thousands of modern fighting machines - artillery tractors, gun carriers, lorries, transport trucks, mobile workshops and other vehicles which make the motorized column a self-contained fighting unit."
(from The Empire moves..on wheels!)

"But there comes an anxious moment when the Tank Commander heads the land battleship for a pre-arranged "harbour" to get supplies and ammunition. With enemy air-craft overhead, enemy scouts prowling on all sides, camouflage is quickly thrown up and protective guns placed in position." (from Rendezvous Under Fire!)
Includes: List of War events by yearOver 40 Action Art Prints with advertisement content for Ford V-8 Mercury engines
Great Wartime action art prints depicting battles, factory and lab settings, nurses, infantry, big guns, bailey bridge and Soldiers under fire, etc.



Sorry folks...................you let this one slip through

[Keith Webb]

Tony the pics are all missing - perhaps you can scan and upload some yourself, would love to see them.

[Private_collector]

Are photos there now? I restarted and they are showing here!

If not, that's probably because I have been up for hours, watching the auction slowly ticking to an end

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Are photos there now? I restarted and they are showing here!

If not, that's probably because I have been up for hours, watching the auction slowly ticking to an end

Yes, they're there now, must have been some sort of glitch.

What an excellent find, well done!

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

This is the remains of the twisted wire cup I used to strip the paint. It was about 85% when I started. I broke the last few strands as I removed the final square inch of crap. I believe I got my moneys worth out of it! Have found these stripping wheels work exceptionally well, if a little scary to use.

Hi Tony,

I use a lot of those twisted wire brushes, and will never use one without a full face screen and glasses. The amount of wire strands I have had that goes through several layers of clothes makes you realise how dangerous they are, but very effective.

regards, Richard

[Private_collector]

I know what you mean!

I have worn a number of the strands in my legs, while using the wire cups.
Wearing long pants don't make a difference, and too hot for leather apron.

I have a large wire cup that goes on a big sander/grinder/polisher, bit I haven't had the nerve to use it yet. I did try it on and run the sander, but the noise the cup of that size makes is quite terrifying!

[Ken Hughes]

Hi Tony,yes the rifle mount screws are the same or close to it as the floor countersunk screws,looks like its comming on well.

[Private_collector]

Thankyou good sir!

[Private_collector]

Got my parts back from sandblasting. Floor plates don't look too bad with all the crap off them. Quite pronounced pitting in places, but most of it is beneath the seat locations and won't stick out badly. Underneath of the plates are nearly perfect.

As soon as I collected the bits from sandblaster, I headed to the local and well stocked nuts & bolts shop. I bought 40 of the correct profile bolts and nuts to suit. It's a shame I didn't count the holes before I went. I will actually need in excess of 60 for floor and fuel selector valve. Oh well, I won't get that far tomorrow anyway.

[Private_collector]

The cab frame came up well. No rust problems underneath the floor areas, but one rust hole on mates side arch. MIG should take care of that tomorrow.

When inspecting the frame, I found a number on the very top of mates side where the window frame goes, but about 7-8 inches in from the end. What is this number? Is it a part number, or a serial number of the truck? It's still as clear as day after 70 years of muck blown off. There is an oval shaped hole punched through near the number and then welded up, with a much smaller hole drilled through again. Bloody strange!

The steering column bracket that bolts to the frame has me puzzled. I know the two holes on upper part attach to the frame, but what do the other two bolts attach to (the ones with the bolts still in them)?

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Attachment 47093
The steering column bracket that bolts to the frame has me puzzled. I know the two holes on upper part attach to the frame, but what do the other two bolts attach to (the ones with the bolts still in them)?

These are where the bracket with the regulator, voltage cutout and ignition resistor was mounted.



The number on the cab frame is a cab serial number but so far we have not found any listing to match. Presumably it was more a factory management number.

[Private_collector]

I wound never have suspected that goes there.

[Private_collector]

Left side wheel arch has been welded & filled, both sides now under spray putty. Won't touch this again until next weekend. It was 39 degrees in the workshop today so it will be well & truly dry by next weekend!

Wheel arch undersides have been coated with Stone Guard. It is fully paintable & is not rubber or tar based, so it won't 'bleed' through the green topcoat.

[Private_collector]

Several small items painted entirely and floor plates painted on the underside. Once the cab frame underside has also been painted, the plates will be reattached for final painting.

[colin jones]

Well thats a very detailed resto.Great job.

[Private_collector]

This afternoon I block sanded the wheel wells, and final primed them in readyness for top coat application tomorrow. They are certainly not perfect, and i'm no panel beater, but shouldn't be too bad once painted. A generous application of good quality seam sealer has been run along the joins where wheel arch meets floor frame.

The rear cab panel and windscreen frame were picked up this morning. The blasting process has blown a number of holes in the lowest edge, where the rear panel overlaped onto the cab frame. This had been expected. I hope to get time to MIG weld those holes and several other areas where previous owner/s have cut openings for some reason. Please excuse the quality of first of the three rear panel photos. It was almost pitch black in the workshop and camera couldn't get a propper focal point.

I see another part number or serial number has shown up on a round disk welded to the rear panel. There will be a significant amount of metalworking required before the panel will be straight enough. Should not be a problem with getting the outside acceptable, but the inside of the panel may be very difficult to get completely straight. I have been considering spraying a light coat of stone guard on the inside of rear panel. If I do this, it would only be the flat parts of steel. The ribbing and framework would be masked off. I am in two minds about this. It wouldn't be original finish and would not look right, BUT it would hide all of the slightly bumpy areas where filler could not be applied to achieve the same finish. Might also minimise any vibration or 'drumming' which can arise from flat panels like this. It's quite a lazy way to cover imperfections but may be warranted with my panel beating skills. Thoughts anyone?????

See next posting for windscreen frame issues.

[Private_collector]

I am a little disappointed with condition of the windscreen frame. There is substantial pitting inside the top cross rail. It won't be seen as far as I can tell, but I will have to replace the thin metal skin along the top. While at the blasters (primarily a heavy engineering works), I had them re-weld one of the vertical end pieces. Original welding had become cracked and it was nearing complete failure! N.B: In the above photo, I have allowed the panel to fall slightly forward of where it should be sitting, in order to take the photo.

I did a trial fit to check alignment. everything aligns OK I guess, (at least at first testing) but I have an important question relating to final assembled position. In checking the total width of the two window frame openings, I have noted that the bottom would be approximately 3-4mm wider than measurement across the top. Both measurements taken from inner edge of the vertical end pieces that bolt onto the cab frame & door hinges.

...Driver side........Mates side... (Both viewed from front of vehicle)

With reference to the two above photos, here is my question. When the vertical posts are bolted in final assembly position, should the windscreen frame posts sit flush with the alignment of the cab frame itself?

I.E: Are these posts simply bolted and pulled towards the door hinge side of the cab frame, which would leave them as they appear in the photos, or is there a spacer or packing of some kind to keep them aligned laterally flush with the cab itself????

If they are 'packed' slightly in a bit, to be flush along the vertical edge of cab frame, then measurements taken (left to right) across inner edges of the posts would then be correct and identical top to bottom. I have heaps of photos in my library, but can't find one which is good enough detail of that area for me to see properly!!!! I know this might have sounded like a daft question, but if there was a packing of 1-2mm each side, the window glass frames sit square in place. If no packing, they have a slightly wider gap at bottom. Rubber seal would cover it but doesn't look right.

HELP!!!!

[Keith Webb]

Looking at what I can find in close ups it would seem they vary a lot, possibly due to erratic alignment of the outer sheet metal part before it is welded to the frame. I don't recall ever seeing a packer on the inside. Generally they seem to stick out a little and are often out of square.

[Keith Webb]

Are the data plates that attach to the top of dashboard meant to be aluminium finish or painted color of the dash????

My understanding they were attached unpainted when new, but were covered with paint whenever the vehicle was repainted.

[Private_collector]

Thanks Keith.

That information is exactly what I needed.

I viewing the photos you posted, it looks like an excessive amount hanging out the side could possibly foul the door top front corner. I think your first photo shows this best.

Amongst the all the doors I have here, there are at least one which has a bent out corner which matches that location. By bent out I don't mean butchered, just a little 'tweak' to make fit perhaps. I'll take a closer look today when I get the chance.

At the end of this coming week, I will be on 2/52 vacation and may make a set of 2mm shims just as a trial. If they work, they might get used. If not.......bin em!

One of my pet hates is for things out of square. Anything out of square or out of plumb will bug me. It's not a issue of the offending part has been welded and can't be moved. In that case it's considered character, but if I can easily rectify, i'm inclined to do just that.

Buying a new house is a bloody nightmare if you can't handle things that are not straight........believe me!

Once again, thanks for the reply and information.