Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Private_collector · #1 17-10-10, 12:07

This is my first rebuild. Will need to replace many, many bits!
I will post new pictures as progress is made. Expect I will be spending a fortune on sand-blasting and welding. About now I really wish I had learnt to weld (properly that is). Always on the lookout for Ford 'donor' vehicles or suitable parts. Hint Hint...

Here's the story so far.....

Bought the Blitz over Ebay, from a very nice couple in Ipswich, QLD. Wasn't intending to bid initially but decided it was worth a punt just for some parts. Especially doors, guards, and nose panel. As you would expect, nothing is in showroom condition, but with patience and money, anything is possible.

Had initially intended to scrap the chassis, but that was before I took a closer look. Though it has been shortened, it was rather well done and did not show any signs of rust through. The wheels/tyres and axles are off a later model Dodge or similar. They will be going to anyone who can use them, but will stay with the vehicle for now, for convenience of mobility.

The first photos are as it was when we got it home.
Whole Blitz-small.jpg Whole Blitz 2-small.jpg
The second two are later the same day.
End of day 1-small.jpg End of day 1-small 2.jpg
My boy and I did actually get further pieces removed later still, but my hands were far too dirty to be allowed use of my wifes camera!

More photos to follow.

Private_collector · #2 17-10-10, 12:25

These are some of the parts which will need attention.
R) upper guard rust.jpg R) lower guard-for repair.jpg Front panel rust.jpg

I must admit I did get a little excited when I removed the cab rear panel, and underneath the "anti-squeak" was original paint that had not seen the light of day on over 65 years.
Original paint color.jpg

Ohh, before I forget. Couldn't see how to remove the steering column. Can anyone advise me how this is done, please? Am really praying that it doesn't require removal of the nut holding the steering wheel on. That nut is the MOST rusted nut I ever saw (most rusted without falling apart, that is)

Private_collector · #3 17-10-10, 12:58

Just realised that the photo "R) upper guard rust" is wrong.
Actually L) upper guard

Private_collector · #4 23-10-10, 12:05

Got a few more small bits off the truck today.

WD40'd the headlight bowls last week, and they came away without issue.....this week. Most parts will be going to a local sandblaster, but thought I would blast some of the most rusted parts just to see how bad they were. Hmmmmm...apart from getting VERY covered with black blast medium, discoverd two small areas of rust-through. Wouldn't expect trouble with repair though.

N.B: Harry Connick Jnr would NOT have approved of my 'black face' look today.

Also tried to remove bolts and screws from drivers door (door removed from truck last weekend). Same WD40 treatment, but much less joy than I had hoped for with the door hinge bolts and lock screws!
Had to resort to grinder to get lock handle plate off. Was very careful NOT to damage plate, but now need set of 'easy-outs' and careful drilling to remedy.

Several areas of metal fatigue were evident on door itself, but once again, should be easy to repair with brazing. About to phone my Father-in-law. He is a rather good welder :-)

Why is it there is ALWAYS ONE BOLT that refuses to come out?
Both door hinges have one bolt EACH that will not budge, and if I cant get them free, I will concede defeat and leave them there for the duration.

Also removed the vents in nose panel. Easy job to do, UNLESS there is that one bolt again. Yep, thats right, was one in each of the vents hinges. No match for the grinder though.

Am keeping all the mutilated bolts and screws so I know replacements will be exact match.

One more thing.

I am keen to buy a 'basket case' or damaged nose panel, to use as donor steel for several rust repairs in various spots. Would rather use original shape and gauge of steel for repairs.

If you are in south east Queensland, and have a suitable (stuffed) nose panel you will sell, send me a message!

Pictures to follow

.

Tony B.

Keith Webb · #5 23-10-10, 12:38

Thanks for sharing your pictures and story Tony!

The floor plate reveals you have a Canadian build (as opposed to an Australian version) of the F15.
To remove steering column means removing the driver's toeplate with all it's captive nuts which can be a pain. The nut holding the steering wheel on is UNF and thin which is a bit of a problem you'll have to tackle sooner or later.
Always fun to find clean original paint under everything.

Keep the pics and story coming, I'm sure there are lots of us waiting for the next instalment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

These are some of the parts which will need attention.
Attachment 37988 Attachment 37989 Attachment 37990

I must admit I did get a little excited when I removed the cab rear panel, and underneath the "anti-squeak" was original paint that had not seen the light of day on over 65 years.
Attachment 37991

Ohh, before I forget. Couldn't see how to remove the steering column. Can anyone advise me how this is done, please? Am really praying that it doesn't require removal of the nut holding the steering wheel on. That nut is the MOST rusted nut I ever saw (most rusted without falling apart, that is)

Private_collector · #6 24-10-10, 11:31

In one way, I guess i'm blessed, as there was no foot plate on the truck when I got it. On the other hand, that means I gotta buy/make one later.

I have applying WD40 to steering wheel nut again today, and will buy a suitable socket?, spanner?, or wrench? to do the job next weekend.

The steering wheel is not too bad, so I will be REALLY careful with removal of the wheel nut.

On a slightly different note, I had a visit today from a gentleman who really knows his stuff with Blitz restorations. He rebuilt a Ford GT which I have seen locally. He pointed me in the right direction for a couple of people who have Blitz wrecks which might be available for purchase. Incredibly, one fellow is right here in Gympie, on a road I have been down many, many times but never saw an intact but rusting Blitz sitting RIGHT IN VIEW, though you wouldn't see it under the large scruffy tree and huge weeds. Until today that is. I went for a drive, followed the directions, and BUGGER ME, there it was!!!!!! I plan to visit in next couple of days.

Mental Note: Must ask my wife to drive more.......so I can just scan the properties for goodies

Thanks again Keith,

Stay tuned.

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #7 24-10-10, 12:25

Hi Tony - WD40 is pretty useless. I have found that applying diesel and heat from an oxy plus tapping with a hammer will quite often shift that rust. I'll have a look in my shed in the morning as I know I have a floor plate. Just have to see if it is Ford or Chev. The other thing with sand blasting. Quite often numbers and unit signs are hidden under layers of paint. A gentle wet rub quite often reveals them.

Bob

Private_collector · #8 24-10-10, 12:37

Thanks for the tip on diesel. I will get some tomorrow. I bought a small gas torch last week, just in case.

If you don't hear from me for a while......it just means the future burns are healing!

And a big thanks for looking for floor plate, too.

Will let you know how I go

Tony Baker