Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Never a 'dull' moment.

[Private_collector]

Passenger door is now on. I made three shims yesterday, just in case I needed some. I actually used four in total. Same old story about top hinge hitting door edge, same old story of door front edge hitting windscreen support frame, and thats despite the frame pack being insitu. All these problems now overcome.

Rifle cups and fire extinguisher installed.

With the last of the floor bolts tightened and ready for painting next weekend, I put the cab to bed for the week.

[Private_collector]

Got the two side curtain frames made. One nearly completed, needing only a strip of metal along rear edge. The other one, just a bare frame. The attachment points will be made for that one next weekend (I ran out of metal bar). They are very easy to make really. I could have gotten away with making only one and using one original, but the original one was a bit tired and would have taken more time & effort to repair than to replace!

That jig worked as I had hoped. Only one cut required once bending completed, and after that cut the ends are ready for welding, which occurs in the jig also.

The engine hatch is to be sent for sandblasting tomorrow. It was lucky that the plate screwed over this hole was thick enough to be used as the repair patch, when I get it back from blasting. Hopefully that will be next weekend!
What would you need to access behind the hatch that was so important as to ruin it. Maybe it's for a speaker

[Howard]

Good work, Tony, You are an inspiration...
Thank you for the detailed posts!
H

[Private_collector]

Well, it's finally here folks! The above mentioned book that I had long since given up for dead.........or at least lost in post [lost in space]! The mystery of delay was revealed when I saw it had actually been sent 'surface' AKA sent via SEA, with all the lengthy delay that goes along with it. Last thing I received by sea was a vintage parachute which was far too heavy for air. It took less time to arrive than this book, and had 6 or 7 different kinds of packing tape, where it had been opened & inspected by each port/customs along the way.

In addition to the book itself, there is also the original letter of thanks to the factory worker this was presented to. I believe these were ONLY produced in sufficient numbers for each of the wartime Ford factory and associated support services workers. That would make this a very rare book indeed. Anyhow, enough of the talk, and more of the photos.

I have chosen 15 pages to post here, with a cross-section of appeals. As they say...."something for everyone"....possibly.



More to come!

[Private_collector]

Aint they lovelly!

More to follow.

[Private_collector]

The book is in very good condition and has obviously been treasured by someone. Perhaps the original worker, or family of that worker, we'll never know I expect. That's a little sad really. It would be tremendous to meet the builder of those vehicles........and ask them.....WHAT THE HELL WERE THEY THINKING with the crappy door fit!

No, not really. I know those poor sods had no say in the design.

I will treasure and conserve this unique bit of Ford history. Perhaps I may will it to our local RSL branch, when i'm gone. Correction :maybe I should will it BEFORE i'm gone.

It is now............"my precious"

[hrpearce]

Great buy Tony.

[Private_collector]

The frames for side curtains are finished, painted and ready for sending to the upholsterer next week. Better make that late next week, to allow for sufficient curing time of paint. Ignore the white specks on the black paint. It is filler dust, and paint was surface dry when it landed.

I have made a slight change to the way door latch access panel is held closed. Formerly it had a tiny metal catch to sit behind once lifted up and over. Maybe it worked better when new but now it's a bit tired and worn. When I make the new pieces of card for the flaps (which will be given to upholsterer for covering), I will be including a small 'rare earth' magnet that will mate up with a piece of metal welded to lower frame rail (can be seen in photo 2). My only concern is that the magnet will stick too well. It's a tiny magnet but VERY strong. Unbelievably strong! I can put one of those magnets on my hand and move it around with another under the hand. Apparently these were often used by magicians as part of their kit! evil swines

More to come.

[Private_collector]

I had really good success with making the side curtain frames, and was happy with the result.............but...........

got no joy with the work on engine cover, in fact the phrase 'total bollocks up' comes to mind! A patch was shaped, welding started, and then the problems started. First, heat pulled the metal more than I had expected. I alternated weld sites and allowed each to cool sufficiently before continuing, but it still shrunk the metal like I had never seen before. In photo 2, you can just see the filler under the 'emergency' coat of etch. I only got as far as etch before I ran out of day.

I guess the work required to stretch the metal back to some semblence of normal was just too much for the poor old hammer!

I found this acoustic/heat shield at the local rubber shop. It's adhesive backed and supposed to be easy to apply. I had intended to cut it to desired sizes today. That didn't happen because of the time I spent whacking the engine cover into shape. Not the right shape you understand, close, but definately not right. I am not pleased with losing definition of one of the metal creases on welded side. As Dirty Harry once said...." A Man's Got to Know His Limitations". God I HATE panelbeating

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

General question about the side curtains, from your pictures it is clear that the design of the side curtains are completely different from my Chevy side curtains. So here is my question are the Ford Australian side curtains different from the Canadian Ford?

Seen of photos of CMPs in the South Pacific with canvas doors.

Has anybody got photos of the different door and side curtain design if so lets start a separate thread on just that topic as a historical/restoration resource.

Tony great information as always.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Phil,

I would be interested to hear the answer to that question also!

All other curtain frames I have seen (live or in photos) are made using flat bar for frames.

[Private_collector]

Phil,

I don't believe I got back to you regarding the ammendments to your blueprints for the rifle butt cups.

The fellow that made mine from your drawings had told me that there were two different sizes of imperial measurements. I have never heard this before, but he said there is both an "English" and an "American" set of measurements, and that they are slightly different! Bearing in mind that he had all but completed the woodwork before I even knew he had started, I had no opportunity to answer any questions he had regarding which measurement type was used on the drawings.

I have been told it was a direct consequence of using the wrong sizing that resulted in a slight variation, making the cups too small. When the guy re-measured with the other size system, it was (after initial enlarging) then correct against the detalis you had provided. Therefore, the measurements were correct!!!!

As I have said, the whole 'two imperials' thing comes as a complete surprise to me. Does this make sense to you?

[Private_collector]

The unceasing rain today has brought useful work to a halt.

Instead, I got one of the side door curtain flaps from upholsterer, and sourced adequate polycarbonate sheeting to make two new ones prior to sending frames to upholsterer on Mon or Tues.

I had taken some reference photos yesterday, showing the position of frames when installed on the doors. These are specifically to avoid any misunderstandings of how the whole thing works. I have noticed that both frames are identical in that they are not 100% parallel to the windscreen support frame. This is found now, due to me not attempting to fit roof at time of assembling doors and w/screen panel to cab. Therefore exact position of windscreen panel will not be realised until roof is fitted. That will be MUCH later.

The original curtain frame on drivers side showed the same thing, so it will either be remedied by later adjustment of screen panel, or curtain has NEVER been quite right. Either way, no problem because the original canvas did fit, and new canvas will also.

While I may not get the engine cover undercoated tomorrow because of rainy weather. I have bought a number of sheets of cardboard today, to make templates for cutting the heat/acoustic insulation for under the cover sections. That I can do in the workshop, regardless of weather. I never paint in workshop, due to great risk of paint dust adhering to other surfaces before it dries. That risk is doubled in cold weather.

I got the drivers floor plate from sandblasting on Friday, and it will get a small welding repair tomorrow, unless it's raining really hard.

So, overall, no dramatic progress achieved. No photos worthy of publishing. The photos I had intended to take from our Memorial Lane murals, have now been put on hold until the Blue Skies Chase Those Dark Clouds Far Away!

[Private_collector]

With the sun out again, pedal plate got welded & primed.

As did engine cover.

In fact, I also painted the inside edges, after two good coats of primer.
I wouldn't normally paint edges alone, but the rest will not be seen once I layer the inside with heat & acoustic insulation.

Spent an hour cutting templates for the insides of cover, then cut the pieces of insulation. I had bought a metre (~3ft ish) which looked big in the shop but not so big when the templates were laid over it.

More to come

[Private_collector]

The insulation was easy enough to cut with a box knife. Also making sure to cut part way through where the cover metal has the bends. Negative folds required removal of a small 'v' of the foam from back side, so that insulation would bend correctly without bunching up.

It sit quite well, but make sure it's in the right place before touching it to the surface or there will be a huge effort getting it unstuck. I tried that on purpose on the workshop door before I started the 'real' installation. There would still be some there now if I hadn't used turpentine to remove it!


A metre of insulation can do the entire inside, if you cut it right. I marked mine right, then cut the last piece in the wrong place. Don't know why! The result is that the rectangular piece closest to cab rear is now 3 pieces side by side.

Instead of buying more, I have left it that way, to remind me to be more careful in future. It'll drive me mad every time I see it, believe me.

More to come....

[Private_collector]

Last thing for today.

Cut the 'polycarbonate' sheet into two new access flap cards for the side curtains. I don't know what the difference betweeen perspex & polycarbonate is, but I have been assured it is very much stronger and long lasting.

I drilled two holes in each flap, where the corresponding metal piece is on frame, and glued two magnets into the plastic. By pure good fortune, the magnets are almost exactly the same thickness as the plastic sheet. They are just a tiny bit narrower, so the holes I drilled were not all the way through. That way the magnets can't be pulled out of the plastic.

With these bits finished, and reference photos printed on Saturday, all pieces can now go to the Auto Upholsterer tomorrow afternoon.

I have been advised it will take about 2 days to make the new curtains.

[Private_collector]

All the materials, photos & instructions are now with the upholsterer.

These side curtains may be finished by this weekend!

I have just been reminded that next Monday is a public holiday, which means more time to work on the truck

I may even be able to arrange a visit to a friend who has got a valve grinding tool put aside for me. It looks to be really old and while it is not exactly spartan, could come in very handy in future.

[Private_collector]

I am looking for some guidance regarding the panel that sits between front panel and radiator. That sort of rectangular shroud thing, you know?

Does this bit sit in front or behind the nose panel?

And, does it just bolt on, or is it supposed to be spot welded to something?

I have two of these which both need some minor remedial work. I want to go onto the nose panel after finishing the engine cover & pedal plate, and will work on the 'shroud' panel at same time, therefor I need to know what I am supposed to do with it.

All information appreciated guys,

T.

[Keith Webb]

The front radiator shroud is a one piece item which is held in place by the grille - the bolts go through the grille and then shroud and then into the front shell. You sort of have to 'wangle' it a bit to put it in through the aperture. Its inner edge conforms to the shape of the front of the radiator to ensure it does it's job of funnelling all the air through the radiator and not out through the sides. The rear shroud which attaches to the back of the radiator then ensures the fan draws the maximum amount of air through the cooling tubes. It's also a handy thing for the fan to rub on very noisily when the radiator out of alignment.

[Private_collector]

Cheers for that info, Keith.

I don't have a rear shroud. I let one slip through my fingers several weeks ago. It was a bit pricey for me at over $100!

[Keith Webb]

You'll find one if you keep looking, I'm sure. It has a cooling system plate on the top with instructions on draining the system.

[Private_collector]

Some time ago, I promised to take & post some decent photos of the wonderful tribute to our Military Personnel that is the Memorial Lane, off Mary Street in Gympie.

As Cliff has previously indicated, the nature and extent of the murals are believed to be unique. If similar exist anywhere else, I have not heard of them! In addition to murals, there are a number of plaques remembering the dead of all wars from The Boer War up until present, with most recent addition being the tragic loss of Corporal Ashley Birt, who was serving in Afghanistan when he was killed.

I have started this thread in:
"WW2 Military History & Equipment"

The thread won't be hard to find

[Private_collector]

All is on track to have engine hatch and pedal plate painted tomorrow.

Do I dare entertain the idea of getting welding & bodywork done on the nose panel!?!?

We'll know soon enough, though I should note that I won't be breaking any speed records tomorrow. I hurt my back when I bent down quickly to select a rock to throw at a vicious dog that had snuck under one of my boundry fences. I injured my back but I did land the shot corectly!

Don't get me wrong, I really like dogs....................but I could never eat a whole one :-)

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Though you probably have thought of it, as you work on the nose take a look at each of the panels as they are attached to the frame work. Look for panels that are in position but have broken spot welds or have separated away form the frame. (I'll post some pictures of the problem soon) I have discovered on both of my Pat 13s that this was a problem it has a number effects; one water leaks, two noise, three heat from the engine compartment. They used a tar like sealer on many of these that over the years has dried out and fallen away.

Also when it comes to mounting the nose there are a number of places had gasket material.

Keep up the good work, enjoy reading your progress updates.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Thankyou Phil,

The nose had been blasted many months ago, and I had asked them to weld several areas also, for exactly the reasons you indicated.

Here's where the problem lies: When I asked them to weld, I hadn't yet bought a welder and did not expect to do so in near future. They did as I had requested, BUT remember I had sent panel there to be blasted. Because it was 'au naturale' when it left my hands, I didn't know that the panels where headlights attach had filler below each headlight hole. So when they welded, as per my instructions, they had in fact secured both front panels in a position that I would later need to have adjusted!

Thats a long winded way of saying I have to cut welds, move areas of those panels forward (maybe 1/8in only) to avoid need for the masses of filler previously used.

Moral of the story: Don't get ahead of yourself. I was young then, now i'm much wiser

I plan to spray certain areas underneath with a body sealer also.

P.S: Did you see I did actually get back to you re dimensions for the rifle butt cups? It was maybe a week of two ago.

[Private_collector]

Got the engine cover painted.

When parts were back inside the workshop & I could take a closer look, I noted that I hadn't entirely obliterated the line where the large round patch was welded in place. It's not well defined any more, but I can't do anything about it now.

The pedal plate is finished also. New headlight dipper installed. Accelerator pedal to be blasted and installed tomorrow.

[Private_collector]

The repairs to nose panel have started, but there was not enough time to complete, so that carries on tomorrow too!

With light fading, I only had enough time to throw on a coat of etch & a single coat of primer. I have since noticed some scratches in the filler that will be re-sanded. It is my aim to do away with need for spray putty, and just apply three coats of primer.

With any luck, and a tail-wind, I should have the whole thing repaired and primed tomorrow.

The engine cover will have foam strip applied to seal edges and protect against scratching anywhere when it's installed or removed, and a strip of rubber will go between it and cab floor. That's another 'tomorrow' job.

[Private_collector]

This little gem required a lot of individual stabs with a pick hammer to lower all the high spots.

All repairs to nose panel are now completed. There were another 6 repairs done today. As usual, it took longer than expected.

I hate panelbeating!

Cont'd..

[Private_collector]

Primer applied x4 coats.

I did get away without need for spray putty, but went mad with spot putty instead It's easier to sand with 400 grit paper.

While the panel was hanging from the hoist, I got stuck into the inside bits and seams. Sanded any areas where sandblasting didn't get all the old paint & muck (Grrrrrrrrrr!).

The 'under' parts, not seen, will be sprayed with an underbody sealer. I use a non-tar based stone guard. It dries completely and is able to be painted. It's the same stuff that was used under wheel arches on cab, and inside the rear lower cab panel. I cannot recall the brand at present.

Any seams which will not receive the spray sealer were filled with 3M gap seam sealer. Not the brush on type. It was applied along the seam straight from the nozzle of tube, then smoothed neat by running finger (or turps rag) along.

A little wrinkle: If using finger, wet the finger first, it stops the sealer from sticking and gives a much smoother finish.

See you next weekend