Info needed: c15a Rear Stowage Boxes

[Paul Edwards]

Hi Guys,

Going to start looking at restoring my rear stowage boxes, the images below are what I have. The hinges are very suspect as too one of the latches. Does anyone have any images of these boxes as they should be?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,


Paul

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Paul

I had to repro mine as they had more rust than metal. You might have to weld plugs in somwe of the holes.....but before doing that try to see how it sits under the box. You should have 2 holes on the bottom rear area for the tail/marker lights....possibly on both side and I believe the bracket that holds up the rigid angles inner fender panel goes from the flat fender to the underside of the box......

I need to locate my pictures of our repro effort..... we started from scratch.

Hang in there

[Owen Evans]

Originally Posted by Paul Edwards

Hi Guys,

Going to start looking at restoring my rear stowage boxes, the images below are what I have. The hinges are very suspect as too one of the latches. Does anyone have any images of these boxes as they should be?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,


Paul

Posts #94 and #95 here might be of use to you?

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...=holder&page=4

O.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Paul the main difference with the original is that the hinges are all rivitted.... we you could do by just replacing you current bolts....... My corner boxes had holes I could put my hand through.....

Still searching for my repro photos....... or maybe Grant will beat me to it.

Cheers

[Bob Carriere]

Horrible rust damage...... rebuilt the box and the bracket to hold them in place.

The rotisserie is a great tool...all home made....save time and apleasure not to have to work under when welding....

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

or maybe Grant will beat me to it.

At least not until this evening, I'm supposed to work while at work (at least part of the time...).

[Paul Edwards]

Thanks Gents, most helpful as always.

Hinges on the outside! like a shed door!

Cheers,


Paul

[Grant Bowker]

Based on the photo dates, I think these must have been posted previously (in September 2020)
First a light trial strip cut and bent, then the body of the boxes bent on the brake and spot welded to close them up, next the pan brake used to bend up end cap for the back of the box which was glued on with body repair epoxy. Finally for this group the 1/8 thick strap welded around the opening for reinforcement. It is nice having the luxury of both a straight brake and a box/pan - each has benefits for access, clearance and shapes.

[Grant Bowker]

More photos - added the mounting straps (bend them a tiny bit short so that they will be tight to the box when bolted in place as the originals weren't attached mechanically to the box as far as I can tell.
Cut, shape, drill etc. the parts for the closure.

[Grant Bowker]

3rd set of photos - rivet both closure and hinges to the body of the box and the lid. Note that the hinges aren't a faithful replacement for the originals but they were what could be found at the time the boxes were made.

[Bob Carriere]

Will have to dust off the finished boxes currently in the sea can for final photos.

Grant to you remember the gauge used...... 16 for the box and 14 or 12 for the doors????

We did the bottom from a single piece then used the modern body shop glue to install the tight fitting back of the box.... very solid and watertight. We used a pan box brake for all the bends and a spot welder to finish the sides.

I may install some thin wooden pine strips inside the box to get a snug fitfor the POW cans and minimize rattle and wear....... a foam strip ( roof pad scraps) at the back and firm rubber inside the lid may also be tried.

Cheers

[Paul Edwards]

Thant's Grant, Bob, Where did you source those hinges?

Cheers,

Paul

[Grant Bowker]

Bob's source: https://spaenaur.com/catalog/L80/



We later found: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...es?item=A06508 but note that they say "no longer available".


Other sources: https://www.mcmaster.com/hinges/hing...aterial~steel/ - often reluctant to ship out of USA


https://spep.com/product-category/pr...s/butt-hinges/ - may have minimum order size....



They seem to be referred to as "weld on butt hinges" in most suppliers' catalogues. Most seem to be square in overall dimension when laid flat but the originals were longer perpendicular to the pin than along it to allow a triangular rivet pattern. With the modern square hinges we had to accept a linear rivet pattern, offset a bit away from the pin to allow clearance for the thickened frame around the opening. Note also the pattern of the drillings to ensure the bucked end of the rivets don't interfere.

[Gordon Yeo]

Bob and Grant
Thank you also for the information on the stowage boxes, most helpful.

Gord

[Paul Edwards]

Bob, Grant How hid your form those rivets? Hot or Cold.

Cheers,

Paul

[Grant Bowker]

They were cold formed.

As a flat bucking surface - a hand held, chunk of steel with a flat smooth face (definitely nothing larger than fist sized needed here). For the head (preformed, round) end of the rivet, I happened to have a suitably shaped set to fit an air powered rivet gun. The main difference between a rivet gun and an air hammer is in the trigger - rivet guns have a teasing trigger that makes it easier to get the gun to give only a hit or two at a time if you want. That said, you should be able to get by with an air hammer or a manual hammer for the few rivets involved.... to build confidence do a couple as practice in a couple of pieces of sheet you don't care about that match the thicknesses involved. For the few rivets involved a used rivet set should be adequate - or borrow one from a friend (or you might become the one everyone wants to borrow from...). Most rivet supply houses also sell the setting tools. If you happen to know someone who's into homebuilt aircraft, they might be willing to loan a rivet gun or use their's on your project.