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  #1  
Old 14-02-18, 09:56
Hanno Spoelstra's Avatar
Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Default Replacement Chevrolet master cylinder

I am trying to piece together some useable info for replacement Chevrolet master cylinders, as the original 1-1/4" bore bottom mount cylinders are hard to get.

Ten years ago Barry posted he used an off the shelf Wagner unit with side mounts. He fabricated a bracket to fit it to a C8A. Barry, would you by any chance remember the Wagner part no.?

Thanks,
Hanno

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Churcher View Post
We are in the process of making up a bracket to replace the master cylinder with the same 1.25 bore and the side mounts.
This cylinder is still available from Wagner.
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  #2  
Old 14-02-18, 11:51
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Hopefully Barry will be able to remember the exact part number he used.
If he can't remember- my guess, based only on the 1-1/4" bore diameter and general shape, is that it might be a Wagner (or Raybestos) MC-4355. This is not certain but may help others in researching the answer. A posting on the G503 forum http://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=222244 claims the 4355 master is correct for the G506 Chevrolet as well as 3/4 and 1 ton pickups of the period - apparently not CMP correct but period Chevrolet.
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  #3  
Old 14-02-18, 22:43
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Thanks Grant, that could be it.

Letís see if Barry has recorded the part number somewhere. Thereís also a thread by Barry mentioning his shop fitting a dual circuit master cylinder to a C8.

Cheers,
Hanno
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  #4  
Old 14-02-18, 22:49
rob love rob love is offline
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I have successfully installed the Ford master cylinder into that location by making up a new bracket. The Ford master cylinders are relatively cheap over here....at one point I think I was paying $35USD for them.

After all, adding anything Ford can only make a chev better.
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  #5  
Old 15-02-18, 00:46
Bruce Parker Bruce Parker is offline
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Wagner MC F9220 is the part number for a master cylinder identical to the WW2 Chev type except it has the two horizontal mounting holes cast into the body instead of the flat base with the two studs as per the WW2 type. I hope to sleeve a WW2 original for my HUW but failing that this one goes in. It will require an angle bracket with four holes to adapt the original stud mount to these two horizontal bolts.

I did a quick google search and this number didn't come up so it may be as hard to find as the original however.
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  #6  
Old 15-02-18, 01:47
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Most Wagner master cylinders seem to have a 2 letter prefix, commonly FD or FE. Raybestos markets a replacement for the 9220 as MC9220, Dorman sells as M9220, NAPA as NMC P9220.
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  #7  
Old 15-02-18, 02:38
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default How about this one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NOS-Del...VX4n0v&vxp=mtr

Yes the bolts are different but the cross section of 1 1/4 is correct.

It is a lot of $$$ just for a core that will be rebuilt....... these 1/4 inch larger Masters were intended for the 1 ton plus trucks.

cheers

another https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-T...xaYSSR&vxp=mtr

another listed for GMC but same part ###https://www.ebay.com/itm/1938-1939-1...VZsqL0&vxp=mtr
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Last edited by Bob Carriere; 15-02-18 at 02:59.
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  #8  
Old 15-02-18, 04:45
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Barry Churcher Barry Churcher is offline
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Hanno, I don't know the number right off hand but I probably have the box with the old core in it on a shelf someplace. Any of the cylinders above that the guys have mentioned should work. The cylinder with the new bracket was a fairly easy fab and it worked excellent. You have to make sure the bracket is heavy so as not to flex on application.
Cheers,
Barry
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  #9  
Old 15-02-18, 15:47
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Great input guys!

This info should give the next one looking for a master brake cylinder replacement enough info to work with. This is the sort of subject where the combined knowledge of MLU members keeps these ageing vehicles running.

Thanks,
Hanno
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  #10  
Old 16-03-18, 16:07
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Tony Smith Tony Smith is online now
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This M/C is of the correct configuration:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1936-19...EAAOSwHMJYFAgk

However, the seller recommends that the correct kit to put through is the #3 kit, which is only a 1" bore. This may be a typo, as the kit for the 1 1/4" bore is a #33 (also known as TM3630). If this is actually a 1" bore, I wonder if it could be bored out to 1 1/4" when sleeving?
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  #11  
Old 16-03-18, 17:18
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Visually, the ebay master cylinder is consistent with the commonly found 1" size. I believe there was also a 1-1/8" cylinder made.
The NAPA kits 3 and 33 kits look similar in style, so without measurement I wouldn't assume the seller is wrong. The Raybestos kit for the 1" bore is MK3, consistent with the NAPA information in the ebay listing. The Raybestos kit for the 1-1/4" cylinder is MK33 so possibly the NAPA 33 might also be 1-1/4" but this is not confirmed.
I believe the casting number on the 1-1/4" cylinder (ebay listing gives 5450256) ends 61. On checking the 1-1/4" cylinder I have at home awaiting sleeving has 5450261 cast into it.
Personally, I would not be comfortable taking 1/8" all round off the wall of the cylinder without a lot of careful measuring and thinking. Even more so if removing a bit extra to allow for the sleeve.

Last edited by Grant Bowker; 17-03-18 at 00:24. Reason: Added casting number.
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  #12  
Old 27-03-18, 20:03
Guy Verstrepen Guy Verstrepen is offline
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mss is a look at this site www.chevsofthe40s.com/
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  #13  
Old 27-03-18, 23:59
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default Chev's of the 40's

Don't use the new master cylinder #5454576E as it has insufficient volume and requires excessive travel and while i'm hesitant to say defective the hole in the side for the sensor lines up with the seals which then tears the seals.....

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  #14  
Old 30-03-18, 20:59
Guy Verstrepen Guy Verstrepen is offline
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https://www.generaaltjes.nl/Content/...6642-15715.jpg

turning - milling - boring work.
his name is fred Send metalwork.
info@fred-verschragen.nl
the man lives in the Netherlands
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  #15  
Old 07-04-18, 15:05
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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To try to bring together another thread on CMP Chev master cylinders http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...aster+cylinder

This is rapidly becoming one of the "the more you study, the more you realize you don't know" things.

I recently pulled out a couple of master cylinders (all 1-1/4") thinking I would send them for sleeving to be "ready when needed". It turned out I had 4 master cylinders sitting. 1 side mount and 3 base mount. The side mount shows part number 5300918 (crosses to Wagner FD-4194). All base mount seem similar in sizing but were not measured with any precision tooling. One has number 0260 cast in the side and it looks as if there were other digits that were supposed to be there. Possibly the whole number 5450260 as in the C15A parts book? The other two have 5450261 cast in. The end caps for the base mount cylinders were all hexagonal to take a wrench but the one for the side mount was round and ribbed. Although they are all 1-1/4 bore, the end caps from the base mount exchange with each other but there's no way the one from the side mount can be threaded into a base mount cylinder (too large). I've no idea why Delco would have done that. The Chevrolet Master Parts Catalog 1929-1948 makes reference to several 1-1/4" master cylinders with different part numbers for the assemblies (not matching any of the numbers above) but all seem to use casting number 5450259 as a starting point. it is not clear if this is a side mount or base mount part.
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  #16  
Old 06-08-18, 23:30
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Today I installed kits into two of the master cylinders I had previously sent out for sleeving.

I had one kit from Jimmy Carter http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/i...319?sdes=me319 and one Raybestos kit MK33 (from ebay for about 1/3 less than the Jimmy Carter kit that also had a sticker on the bag saying "33").
On starting the second cylinder, I noticed that the new piston didn't want to enter the bore easily. It turns out that the sleeve had been installed slightly off-axis to the cylinder bore so there was a tiny lip on one side of the bore. Nothing that would affect function, just enough to either force you to put the piston in from the pedal end of the cylinder (and risk turning the lip over) or require a tiny amount to be ground from half the circumference of the cylinder wall to permit putting the guts in from the outlet end. It only took a couple of minutes with a stone in the Dremel, more time to realize what had happened and set up than to do the grinding. With the lip out of the way each kit went into the cylinder easily, seems to be a proper fit.

To avoid the chance of damaging your new piston, I suggest that if you have had cylinders sleeved that you try fitting your old piston assembly (if in good enough shape that you are sure it won't score the sleeved cylinder) into the bore to check for unwanted lips at the ends of the sleeve. In my case the lip was at the outlet end of the cylinder.
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