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M38 Jeep Front Springs
Fully intending to pull the M38 out this year for it's long overdue restoration. A bit bothered by the front springs though. The left side spring shackle is angled quite a bit further forward than the passenger side one, by about 10 to 15 degrees. Is this normal?
I checked the shackle orientation on Dad's recently completed GPW, and their position both correspond with the right side shackle on my M38. This makes me think that something is amiss with the left side spring. But there is no obvious 'lean' on the M38 to suggest one spring is more tired than the other. The springs are both 10-leaf, and appear to be original M38 spec (Mather Spring Co?). I'm concerned that once the South Wind 978-M is eventually fitted onto the left side of the cowl, that shackle angle will be worse. Any thoughts or opinions on this would be welcome..... Thanks! Owen.
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1940 11 Cab C15 1939 DKW KS200 1951 Willys M38 1936 Opel Olympia MVPA # 39159 MVT # 19406 |
#2
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I'm thinking a spring overhaul is in order as I see a broken clamp anyways. You could always switch them side to side after a re-arching and new bushings go in. I was informed that jeeps can have a left hand lean due to driver weight, fuel tank weight and a full jerry can on that side. Makes sense that the left side would wear a bit quicker.
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Peter Phillips 1952 M38Cdn 1953 M100Cdn 1951 PE-95K Gen Set MVPA Cdn Forces 1986-2006 |
#3
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Quote:
Thanks for your reply. I agree with what you say about needing the springs overhauling. And also about the left hand lean; I suspect having the personnel heater on the left side isn't helping either. What's the consensus among the MLU folks regarding re-arching 60-plus year old jeep leaf springs? A look on the web didn't really help. Has anyone here actually had it done? And if so, how did it work out? Thanks! Owen.
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1940 11 Cab C15 1939 DKW KS200 1951 Willys M38 1936 Opel Olympia MVPA # 39159 MVT # 19406 |
#4
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I have replaced individual leafs in springs of that era, as well as heated and tightened the eyes where the shackle bushings go into.
You kind of have two avenues. Take the pair of springs to a spring shop for re-arcing, or buy a replacement set of springs. New production springs will be a little more expensive than the re-arcing I suspect, but not by much. A third option would be to open up both leaf packs, and mix the leafs. A couple of C clamps can help hold the packs together as you install the new center bolts. How are the shackles themselves? The uneven position of the shackle could be a seized shackle bushing. You'll know when you go to remove them. Often though, a seized bushing results in a broken spring eye. I had an M38A1 at work display some problems with the shackles. By the time it was all done, I had to replace one broken leaf, tighten two spring eyes, replace the threaded shackle sockets in two of the frame points, replaced all the shackles and bushings, and did the knuckle bearings and seals for good measure. The knuckle bearings really made a difference. Properly set up, the Jeep steers like it has power steering. If you can't remember the last time you did your knuckle bearings, then now is the time. Make sure to order the shim pack and use a fish scale to set the preloads. |
#5
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Are the springs set differently on the front like an MB or GPW, to allow for the driver fuel tank etc. Quite different in the war time jeeps, from side to side, if memory serves me well.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#6
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Quote:
Thanks for your reply. The shackles and bushings were new when I reassembled the chassis, about 7 years ago. I also applied some copper grease before reassembly, so I'm hoping they won't be seized. Both front shackle positions were fine until I dropped the engine in. Replacement springs for the M38 are a problem over here in the UK; nobody sells them! So I can either settle for 8-leaf WW2 jeep springs, or pay out to have some shipped from North America. Quote:
Your memory is correct. But no, left and right are the same part number on the M38. Wonder if the extra two leaves maybe negated that requirement? I know that moving the steering bell crank from the axle onto the crossmember did away with the torque reaction spring. Owen.
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1940 11 Cab C15 1939 DKW KS200 1951 Willys M38 1936 Opel Olympia MVPA # 39159 MVT # 19406 |
#7
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I didn't catch that you are overseas, so I guess it does get a little pricey to just order a set. That kind of relegates you to the other options which are getting a spring shop to arc the pair to the same specs, or to mix and match the two spring pacs.
Once you have the springs off and sitting next to each other, you may be able to make a better call on which way to proceed. |
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