Lynx II, hull # 4225

[Mrs Vampire]

so far as welding mild steel on armor ....it cracks off easily so the Ni Rod offer is a good one

So far as sand blasting ...I am against it unless extreme rust is the issue. All blasting removes original paint. I prefer to spot treat rust and paint over old paint so its still there.

Original paint on WWII vehicles is extremely rare. For my own tank I have only ever over painted so I have been able to go back and rub down to discover original markings , camo schemes and colours.

I am happily in the same position with my FGT #9 . Blast it off and its gone forever...no possibility of future research.

[chris vickery]

Peter, if the Lynx is as common to the Ford cmp as I think, the wheel cylinders are an of the shelf item. I will look around to see if I can find my cross reference to the modern numbers. I also have the master cylinder number as well if it is the same. Does the Lynx use a Hydroboost?
I found when I did the first CMP truck which was a Ford that many parts were still available as they were common off the shelf items when the War broke out, borrowed from their civilian predecessors.
I found though to research the crossover parts that I needed to go to an old time auto parts store where they actually still use catalogs and not computers to check. The catalogs will show pictures with sizes etc of the components. If memory serves, the Ford CMP brake system was listed under 2 ton commercial truck 1940s-50s.
I also found Mac's Antique Auto in NY to be quite helpful as well.

[rob love]

Wheel cylinders on the back are Chev, while the front are Ford. I used a wheel cylinder WC4358 for the rears and the fronts are the standard Ford WC4571 while the master is the MC4572. I went with the silicone brake fluid and while the jury is still out on the long term benefits, I can tell you that it was a bugger to seal at the various joints and copper gaskets.

[rob love]

Ferret tires are getting difficult to find in good shape.

Another possibility is to go with the Chevron 10.50x16 tires available from STA in the US. They will run you around $320 a tire, and are a little too large, but have the look. I hope to eventually be installing a set of them on the Shilo Lynx.

[chris vickery]

Hey Rob, interesting to note your use of silicone brake fluid. I too have changed to using it for a couple reasons and so far its worked out.

1) silicone will not ruin painted surfaces like the old brake fluid, especially when bleeding lines etc or in the event of a leak

2) silicone does not absorb moisture like the old stuff, hence less chance of corrosion in places like wheel and master cylinders. I think this an advantage in itself as many of our MVs sit without use during storage.

[Peter Duggan]

Guys,

I continue to be surprised at the knowledge that the MLU members have and their willingness to share.
Rob, I was aware that the front and rear brake cylinders were of different sizes and had heard of the mix of Ford and Chevrolet parts in the CMP line, but hadn't assumed that it applied to the Lynx.

Thanks once again for your comments. Peter

[Peter Duggan]

Folks,

I've said it before, but it is worth repeating. The best part of this restoration is the people that you meet along the journey. I attended the Homesteader days event at Odessa on the weekend, and there was a strong contingent from the KMVA attending. Among the notables were Bob Carriere, with his C15A project, Jon Bradshaw with his Mk 2/3 Ferret and David Parker with his Mk 2 mortar carrier. It was a fine event and provided me with more motivation for my own project.

Peter

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