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  #691  
Old 14-11-19, 00:35
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Both had asbestos pads on them when I got them and they are left and right sided too.
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  #692  
Old 15-11-19, 02:00
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The new output shaft sleeve arrived today. Fit like a glove. This will now seal very nicely in the new seal.
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  #693  
Old 17-11-19, 22:31
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Today I installed the heat pads inside the nose. Iím very happy with how this felt turned out as I feel it looks similar to the original asbestos. I was hoping to reuse the original wire staples but they are started to break with the slightest of bending. So out came the roll of stainless safety wire Iíve got. The added bonus is no rust from them down the road.
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Dodge D23c, 1942
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  #694  
Old 18-11-19, 00:29
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Default High tech Chev!

Thanks for the heads-up. Meta Aramid felt, had to look it up. Seems to be available in various qualities, havenít found your 700 deg F one yet.
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  #695  
Old 18-11-19, 03:10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra View Post
Thanks for the heads-up. Meta Aramid felt, had to look it up. Seems to be available in various qualities, havenít found your 700 deg F one yet.
https://thefeltstore.ca/search?type=product&q=Meta
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RHLI Museum,
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #696  
Old 21-11-19, 04:52
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Installed the redone steering wheel tonight. Things would have gone better except for I had safely packed away the retaining nut and it took me about 1hr of searching to find it.

Iím also installing a NOS horn button kit.
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RHLI Museum,
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
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  #697  
Old 21-11-19, 14:45
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Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Now where did I put?

Hi Jordan

We've all had that experience of having to find the part we put away, what I hate more is getting it all assembled then finding the part.

But to your horn wiring, I've had problems on all three my trucks with the rub ring pickup down on the column. Finding that the repro parts are not quite long so the little carbon brush doesn't make good contact.

Will be interested in seeing if you find the same problem, and how you work around it.

Cheers Phil
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  #698  
Old 21-11-19, 22:20
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Rb ring trick......

...... it gets greasy and oxidizes over the years.......

I have used brake cleaner with a cue tip.....and a lot of patience....... there is also a special solution used by old radio repair shops..... it is intended to remove contamination and oxidation of the older mechanical contact swithces...... camera shops use it to clean the battery contacts on digital cameras......

On you rub brass band..... a wooden pencil that has a hard rubber eraser chucked in a small 1/4 drill will do wonders but some one needs to turn the steering wheel while you polish the brass band........... probably could find an ink eraser at staples that you can punch a 1/4 piece than crazy glue to the end of a wooden dowel.....used in conjunction with the above cleaners it should work. I have done my truck but could probably use another cleaning as the horn does not always work when the steering is pointed straight ahead but works if I wiggle the wheel......

Not sure about the cab 13 but on my cab 11 I need to remove the inside fender........

....and some say the good old days!!!!!!!

Good Luck
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  #699  
Old 22-11-19, 01:21
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First time in a few years the truck is off the axle stands and back on its own wheels. The steering was hooked up today and all is good with all the rebuilt bits.
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RHLI Museum,
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #700  
Old 22-11-19, 03:34
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Did you ever........

....inspect very very closely your steering arm?????

Mine came apart at the welded ball connection....... 70 year old weld was NEVER done properly....only surface weld.....sure went for the snow bank very fast........ on rewelding the ball end to the arm I noticed numerous hair line cracks in the inside of the curved portion. I had washed the arm prior to welding in the kerosene wash tank and paper towel dried them before welding.
The cracks only appeared when the welding heat travelled up the arm..... it caused residual kerosene to darken the hair line cracks....... much similar to magnaflux testing. I kept the steering arm as a souvenir and installed a spare one that I heated slightly but found NO cracks.

It's a weird feeling spinning the steering wheel one way and having the truck go in the opposite direction...... at 5 miles per hour I just plowed into a snow bank.

Cheers

PS.... now is the time to clean up the contact brass ring on the steering shaft.
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  #701  
Old 22-11-19, 04:49
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The brass ring on that shaft was all cleaned up. New wire down the tube. Testing was done with the ohm meter. The horn button was pressed and the wheel turned full rotation. All is good.

Yes when I cleaned it up I checked out the arm. It was fine.

And now for more good news........

THE ENGINE IS IN....

All went reasonably well. I had some initial issues with balancing the weight of the engine. It fell off the stand and thankfully the hoist took the weight. The biggest issue I had was clearance between the cab frame and transmission. The frame was catching the top of the big gear in the transmission. I ended up using my floor jack to lift the cab frame up on one side. I then put in a metal spacer between the front cab mounts. Then I repeated on the other side. This still wasnít enough. So I used the floor javk and some wood cribbing and jacked up the rear part of the frame. This gave the transmission the extra 1/8Ē it needed and it slid into position. All in all it went well after I had some supper.
Iíve got a few things to sort out but Iím happy I hit this milestone.
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RHLI Museum,
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #702  
Old 22-11-19, 21:20
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Imagine doing that......

.....with a cab 11/12.............

Will you be ready for the New Years morning first of the 2020 run out in the snow?????

Bob C
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  #703  
Old 23-11-19, 03:18
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Busy day putting stuff back onto the engine. I also got the front engine mount sorted out. I used a new rubber bushing.

I also got a package of rubber bushings and bumpers in the mail today. The company had a great selection of sizes and I was able to get exactly what was needed.
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RHLI Museum,
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #704  
Old 23-11-19, 03:19
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I also sorted out my hood and dog house cover latches. The two on the left side are NOS ones.

Lastly does the starter handle lean towards the driver or towards the passenger?
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RHLI Museum,
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #705  
Old 29-11-19, 00:58
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Parking brake handle and linkages are all installed and setup for proper tension. The starter lever is also in along with its return spring.
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C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer

Last edited by Jordan Baker; 29-11-19 at 17:00.
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  #706  
Old 29-11-19, 17:03
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Original headlamp reflectors are slowly getting there. Iíve been re-slivering them and polishing. They still need some more work to get them to where Iíll be happy. Iím using a small re slivering kit from Caswell. It cost about $100. Comes with a small power supply, little wand and the silver plate liquid. It works well. But Iím finding the biggest hurdle is the polishing the reflectors. Thatís what really makes them shine.
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0C6220A9-1CE4-4F0C-9D34-B75B6A438125.jpeg  
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Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #707  
Old 29-11-19, 18:10
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default starter lever

My trucks have a longer spring that goes back to the floor rail and hook up to the small hole next to the bigger hole that the starter lever passes through. I mention this because your attention to detail and originality is second to none!
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  #708  
Old 29-11-19, 19:18
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Iíve seen that setup. However my truck does not have that extra hole. I went with the next best option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry Moon View Post
My trucks have a longer spring that goes back to the floor rail and hook up to the small hole next to the bigger hole that the starter lever passes through. I mention this because your attention to detail and originality is second to none!
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RHLI Museum,
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #709  
Old 29-11-19, 23:10
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Front axle engagement lever and linkage installed. Lastly for the day, the set of original data tags have been installed. I even used period NOS screws. The plating finish on them is much much nicer then whatís available today.
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RHLI Museum,
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #710  
Old 30-11-19, 01:05
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Very nice work, Jordan. I enjoy following it.

David
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  #711  
Old 30-11-19, 01:41
Bruce Parker Bruce Parker is offline
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A question Jordan, what do you mean "catching the top of the big gear in the transmission"? It looks like you have the transmission tower on and no gears would be exposed to catch. Was the lack of clearance getting the transmission tower (assuming it was not removed) under the cab crossmember that is at the back of the engine cover? I expect probably so as this cross member has been cut on a good number of Chev CMP's. Of course the other way to do it is install the engine without the transmission (nothing to catch and lighter) then install the transmission from underneath.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
The brass ring on that shaft was all cleaned up. New wire down the tube. Testing was done with the ohm meter. The horn button was pressed and the wheel turned full rotation. All is good.

Yes when I cleaned it up I checked out the arm. It was fine.

And now for more good news........

THE ENGINE IS IN....

All went reasonably well. I had some initial issues with balancing the weight of the engine. It fell off the stand and thankfully the hoist took the weight. The biggest issue I had was clearance between the cab frame and transmission. The frame was catching the top of the big gear in the transmission. I ended up using my floor jack to lift the cab frame up on one side. I then put in a metal spacer between the front cab mounts. Then I repeated on the other side. This still wasnít enough. So I used the floor javk and some wood cribbing and jacked up the rear part of the frame. This gave the transmission the extra 1/8Ē it needed and it slid into position. All in all it went well after I had some supper.
Iíve got a few things to sort out but Iím happy I hit this milestone.
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  #712  
Old 30-11-19, 02:28
Paul Singleton Paul Singleton is offline
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Default Crossmember

Bruce, I have seen many GM crossmembers with the lip cut off. Some people do this to make it easier to replace the clutch. With the lip removed the pressure plate and clutch disc can be pushed up into the bell housing at the same time. If the crossmember isn’t cut you need to push the pressure plate in first and then the clutch disc, which can be a bit difficult and hard on the fingers.
As far as Jordan’s comment about the gear, the large gear at the rear of the transmission does protrude above the case so I believe the tower wasn’t installed.

Last edited by Paul Singleton; 30-11-19 at 04:24. Reason: Spelling
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  #713  
Old 30-11-19, 06:22
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The top of the big gear was hitting the cab frame cross member. The tower was off on the transmission when I went to install the engine. The issue was only when trying to get everything into position. Once it was in place there was lots of room.
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Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #714  
Old 01-12-19, 06:02
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I also made up a felt gasket for sealing where the transmission tower comes up through the floor. For cutting the hole in the felt I used one of the pressing sleeves/cups from a Speedi Sleeve. It was the right size for the felt to be nice and tight against the shift tower. I simply put it in the shop press and it cut right through the felt and gave me a nice perfect large size circle.
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Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
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Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #715  
Old Today, 00:38
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Working on installing the radiator this afternoon. Some minor fitting issues between the fan and the shroud. But nothing that canít be sorted. I also got the bonding straps sorted out for the generator thanks to an at length article in the Service Bulletins put out by GM during the war.
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Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #716  
Old Today, 01:36
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Continued great work, Jordan, but I am curious...

Now that you have the Otter safely home, are you going to be changing the title of this thread to, ďMy Old C15AĒ?

David
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  #717  
Old Today, 02:05
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Iíd love to change the title of this thread to C15a Wire-3


Quote:
Originally Posted by David Dunlop View Post
Continued great work, Jordan, but I am curious...

Now that you have the Otter safely home, are you going to be changing the title of this thread to, ďMy Old C15AĒ?

David
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Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
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Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #718  
Old Today, 13:44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
Iíd love to change the title of this thread to C15a Wire-3
Done - how does "C15a Wire-3 restoration" sound like?

H.
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  #719  
Old Today, 16:19
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Thanks Hanno
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Willys MB, 1942
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