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  #1  
Old 13-07-12, 04:31
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Good Day, Just joined this group at a fellow member's suggestion. I am a Ford F15A restorer in Australia. I recognize a few familiar names from the VMVC and other places here. Quick background: US born and raised, came to Australia in 1975 and fell in love with the CMP vehicles when I first saw one in 1977 at Nyngan NSW. I am also a lover of the old Flathead/Sidevalve Fords so it was a natural fit. Was familiar with WW2 US army vehicles as a kid but the COE design for a military vehicle was something new to me. Got 1st one in 1991 and still working on it!
It is about 99% complete and hope to have it on the road in the next year or two. No need to rush things! Will post photos when I get familiar with the system.
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  #2  
Old 13-07-12, 05:08
Luke R Luke R is offline
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Welcome to the forum mate.
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  #3  
Old 13-07-12, 05:44
Richard Coutts-Smith Richard Coutts-Smith is offline
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Yes Indeed, Welcome to MLU.
My Chevvy has taken about as long to do as your Ford, and same state of completion. Unfortunatley it will never sound the same as yours...
Rich.
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  #4  
Old 13-07-12, 06:22
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Default Welcome

And great to see you here Jacques!

I've seen your restoration project and it is absolutely marvellous. I hope you'll post some pictures for all to admire.
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42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains
42 FGT No9 (Aust)
42 F15
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  #5  
Old 14-07-12, 02:53
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default As requested photos F15A

Here's a few photos of the 20 year project. The little boy in the cab is now a 26 year old 737 pilot! Chassis is awaiting installation of rebuilt engine hence no cowl. I did not want to cut the crossmember at the top front of the cowl as is often done for expediency. For reliability, the engine is updated with 8BA crank and rods, 8BA valves, new inserts, alloy cam gear, original Johnson adjustable tappets. Using modern Airtex fuel pump. Still has original PCV system. Engine builder recommended using 8BA headbolts instead of studs as the Chinese made ones from a well known Ford parts company that I supplied him with stripped during torquing. Studs did not fully extend through nuts. Prefer look of studs, but, oh well. Toolbox was mint condition, unlike most. Seat cushion original but, surprise, surprise, I just learnt a fellow a few doors up the street is a retired canvas specialist and is currently making 2 replicas of it for me. Hope you find these interesting. I have hundreds of photos taken digital, and pre-digital and scanned documenting the resto. Helps when you come back to it after a long hiatus.
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  #6  
Old 14-07-12, 03:22
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Default Progress

The engine is looking good, was a bare block last time I saw it. Interesting to hear about the head studs.

Is the coil a newly manufactured one?
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42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains
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  #7  
Old 14-07-12, 04:08
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Coil NOS

Hi Keith, Long time no see! The coil is a NOS one I got from a fellow Early Ford V8 Club member a few years ago. Since then, and getting a bit more wiser on NOS parts, especially coils and condensers, I think I will replace it with a newly made one as I did with the Airtex fuel pump (modern rubber diaphragm for modern fuels). I will see how it performs once the engine is installed and running. There will be a lot of engine hours on the "test bed" before it goes out on the road. Again, for reliability, I think a newly manufactured one will be the go on the road. I put the engine temporarily back together on the stand also to make sure everything went back OK. A lot easier than finding out something isn't mating up while standing on your head in the engine compartment. Was worth it to get spark plug leads and conduits correct, and found that the original carby fuel line did not mate up to the new fuel pump by just a few mm. Was a lot easier making one up and fitting it on the stand. Will strip off intake manifold and block and use my lifting beam on the valve gallery top to put short block back into chassis. Brgds Jacques
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  #8  
Old 14-07-12, 11:24
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Default Wow. Great work!!!

Jacques,

Your attention to detail is fabulous.

Keep the photos coming.....and welcome aboard
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Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #9  
Old 14-07-12, 14:10
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Battery holder pattern?

Hi Tony, Thanks for your kind comments. I have attached the reverse engineered drawings I made based on the photos and sketches that I was given awhile back. Was wondering how accurate they are based on yours? Info supplier never got back to me on how the base attaches at the rear of the holder hence I punted that there is a tab there. Also never got the thickness of the sheet metal. Brgds Jacques
Attached Thumbnails
battery holder.JPG   Copy of battery holder base.jpg   Copy of battery holder pattern.jpg   Copy of battery holder sides.jpg  
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  #10  
Old 14-07-12, 14:26
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Default Battery Box

Jacques,
Click image for larger version

Name:	PB150006.JPG
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ID:	50487 Click image for larger version

Name:	PB150005.JPG
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Your drawings look virtually identical to my parts. Since I sent you the private message, it has started raining again, so I will have to check & photograph tomorrow. In the meantime, this is two photos I took of my battery holder assembly when I first got it. The box frame has been very badly treated in past, so my knocking it flat won't harm it any further. The two securing bolts have already been removed, and are in quite good shape. Good enough to be reused, and would be acceptable starting point for taking patterns off, if you don't have suitable replacements.

What is the part shown in your first diagram? It doesn't look familiar to me. Is it to show location of the box frame in relation to the base plate?

The only thing I see missing from your drawings are the exact location of the three rivet holes where the two battery securing bolts attach the battery box sides. I can supply that information , once I get a good look at mine. Mind you, you can't get them too far away from where they need to be, if you go off your plans!

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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 14-07-12 at 14:31.
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  #11  
Old 15-07-12, 01:44
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Battery holder pattern

Hi Tony, Thanks again for the info. The first drawing is what I reckon the base of the holder looks like and the spacing of the rivets that attach it to the sides and base plate. I assumed it is a separate piece based on the rivets on the tabs on the sides, or is it riveted directly to the base plate? (You can see I haven't been a draughtsman for 45 years-forgot to label the drawing, fail!)
The dimensions and position of the rivet holes that hold the battery securing bolts would be most appreciated. Again my previous source did not supply them, but in fairness, he was not a "Blitz" restorer. He supplied numerous photos which helped greatly and have attached a couple more here. The one of the front corner may be helpful for the little toe plate that keeps the battery in.
And I am right for the base plate dimensions. Mine is all there and in good condition. Often they are not from years of acid spllls from the battery so thanks for asking.
Brgds,
Jacques
Attached Thumbnails
base of holder.JPG   forward side plate.JPG   front corner.JPG  
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  #12  
Old 15-07-12, 03:54
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default battery holder- update

Hi Tony,
Think I answered my own question! I remember getting the base plate straightened many years ago by the bumper straightening service where I took my bumper. I seem to remember now he mentioned grinding off some rivet heads. I had a look at my base and I can just see the outline of the holes. He did such a good neat job I didn"t see them before I primered and painted it. So I would say they were riveted directly to the base plate. The photos I obtained showed so much scale I assumed it was a sheet metal plate on the bottom. Have attached photo of my "interim" battery holder. You may find it interesting the Baldwin fuel filter element in it. The first truck had the remains of an AC GF-132 filter inside the filter housing. When I cross referenced, I found Baldwin makes one for it and bought it locally in Melbourne. I think it is a lot better filter than the original brass leaf type. And, just like the engine, I am willing to deviate from 100% original if it doesn't affect appearance but improves reliability.
Brgds, Jacques
Attached Thumbnails
Copy of battery holder-interim.jpg   Copy of AC filter.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 15-07-12, 13:31
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Tony Smith Tony Smith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques Reed View Post
I Have attached a photo .... You may find it interesting the Baldwin fuel filter element in it. The truck had the remains of an AC GF-132 filter inside the filter housing. When I cross referenced, I found Baldwin makes one for it and bought it locally in Melbourne. I think it is a lot better filter than the original brass leaf type. And, just like the engine, I am willing to deviate from 100% original if it doesn't affect appearance but improves reliability.
Brgds, Jacques
Good thinking, Jacques. I can't clearly see the Baldwin number in the pic. Can you provide it please?

We have a thread on Modern CMP part numbers, to which we can add the AC GF-132 and the Baldwin filter as modern replacements. For those who didn't know, the same filters will be useful for MB/GPW owners, as well as other WW2 US vehicles too.
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  #14  
Old 16-07-12, 00:49
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Baldwin fuel filter for Ford CMP truck

Hi Tony,
The Baldwin filter Number is PF860.
Available from Baldwin Filters (Aust).
95 Fulton Drive
Derrimut, Vic 3030

While we are on filters, I will do start a thread on some of the info I have on bypass oil filters and cartridges as used on Canadian Ford WW2 V8's. They seem to be different to those on Ford engines from the US (smaller diameter). May help those having a hard time finding appropriate ones. Will stick it in the Restoration forum as I got moved to "B Echelon" on my first posting but it is really a restoration topic.
Brgds,
Jacques
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  #15  
Old 16-07-12, 04:07
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Interesting -
At http://www.equipmax.net/baldwin/cgi_...empartid=GF133 they say "GF133 Cross to Baldwin PF860" so the Baldwin element may repalce two slightly different AC elements.
They also give dimensions for the PF860 as: Fuel Element Fits: GMC, White Trucks Replaces: GMC 854435; White 871646 O.D.: 2 7/8 (73.0) I.D.: 17/32 (13.5) Length: 2 1/8 (54.0) A. Gskt.: [2] Attached F. Gskt.: G338 UPC: 791440009431

A quick search for price in North America came up with $9.02 each (less in cases of 12) at http://www.baldwinfiltersrus.com/bal..._lookup/PF860/. I have no experience of the seller.


On follow-up, I checked the Baldwin catalog for off highway applications and found that the PF860 is almost exclusive to GMC/Chev applications on a variety of engines between 1957-1965. 283 V8, 292 6 cyl, 302 6, 351 V6, 503 6, 427 6, 360 6, 348 v8. There is also a lonely reference to a White/GMC application, remembering there was a period with GM owning White. The only cross reference found to another filter was to the AC GF133, used in an AC GF30A housing.
For the trivia hunters out there - the only non-GM related application found was for a Chris Craft boat (and that might have been GM powered).

Last edited by Grant Bowker; 17-07-12 at 22:59. Reason: Added content.
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  #16  
Old 16-07-12, 06:29
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Slight correction- exhibit A

Hi Grant,
Should have updated my notes. The original filter was an AC GF 133 not a 132. As per the attached photo the rust was right at the base of the second "3" giving the impresion it was a "2". Close inspection by "forensics" shows it is a "3". Seem to now remember this discussion at Baldwin's a few years back.
Sorry for any confusion.
The Baldwin filter fits perfectly, is available, filters better, and conforms closely to the AC filter allowing for slight manufacturer's differences. Thanks for the heads up. Know the frustration of chasing wrong info.
Brgds,
Jacques
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_3826.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 16-07-12, 10:04
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Default Battery tray base

Yes Jacques, you are correct about the battery frame rivited to the base. My base has lasted far better than the box too. It also need a slight 'tweak' to straighten, but has no major pitting that might be a hole. Having said that, it is often only after sandblasting that these things appear. With this piece I am quietly confident though.

I will copy your photo showing the fuel filter, if thats OK? Every bit helps.

Will need to get back to you regarding dimensions, but first thougts are that they are quite correct. I will confirm this later this week.

I fully understand the decision to make slight 'alterations' or improvements in restoration. I like to think some of the changes I make are what Ford would have done if they were able to take their time and pay more attention to quality in construction

P.S: You Chev guys, they aren't built any better, I have been reliably informed.
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  #18  
Old 16-07-12, 12:22
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Default Check this

And here's one we prepared earlier
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It's off Keith Webbs latest offering: http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...d=1#post167811
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  #19  
Old 17-07-12, 02:40
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Battery holder/fuel filter

Hi Tony,
By all means you can use the photos.

I chalked the rivet hole areas yesterday and was able to find the ground flush rivets and pop them out. (See attached). That gives me a pretty good idea of the correct overall dimensions assuming the tabs are 1/2" wide as originally given to me, and the rivets are spaced down the centerline of the tabs as they appear to be in photos.
I have revisited the photos I recieved over a year ago and have tweaked a few measurments of the battery holder. The notch at the sides is 5-7/8" from the base when I zoomed in. (see attached).
My old draughtsman eye thinks maybe the sloping front of the sides is exactly 45 degrees. (a nice convenient line for the designer to draw with the 45-45 triangle) Would you be able to check it for me if you have a protractor or square? The measurements I was given comes in close but not exactly 45 degrees.
One other question. What is the thickness/gauge of the sheet metal? Looks pretty thin. The photos look like it is only about 2 mm (14 ga)
Brgds,
Attached Thumbnails
battery holder2.JPG   base plate.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 17-07-12, 11:48
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Jacques,

I'll let you know about those measurements on Thursday.
Tomorrow I won't be getting home until after 1800hrs & quite dark by then.
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  #21  
Old 18-07-12, 12:09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques Reed View Post
Good Day, Just joined this group at a fellow member's suggestion. I am a Ford F15A restorer in Australia.
Hi Jacques, welcome to MLU. I only joined a few weeks ago myself so it's great to see you here.

I saw your F15A a couple of years ago when I picked up a pintle hook assy from you. It's a fabulous job, looking forward to seeing it on the road one day.

BTW the chassis plates which came with that pintle hook are now with Tony Smith in Gympie, shortly to be fitted on his resto!

Cheers,
Tony
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Old 18-07-12, 12:11
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Tony Smith in Gympie
correction....Tony Baker in Gympie. Sorry Tony!
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  #23  
Old 18-07-12, 12:20
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Default Wrong name

No problems Tony,

I worked in an adult acute psychiatric facility for 5 years. Believe me when I say that I have been called MUCH worse...........and frequently!

There's times when I fear I may have absorbed some of the psych stuff through osmosis or exposure. Then there's times when i'm SURE I did.

One day, a psychiatrist told me that a particular patient had "suicidal tendencies, but he was an under achiever, so he should be OK!""!
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Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #24  
Old 18-07-12, 12:37
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Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
a psychiatrist told me that a particular patient had "suicidal tendencies, but he was an under achiever, so he should be OK!""!
How very reassuring!
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  #25  
Old 18-07-12, 19:44
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Default More filter cross references

Working from the listed applications from Baldwin for the PF860 and the Rockauto online catalog for some of the uses given by Baldwin it looks as if the Baldwin PF860, AC GF133, Fram CG5 and Wix 33042 are all interchangable. NAPA's online gives their FIL 3042 as the interchange for the Wix and Fram filters but doesn't cross-reference the AC or Baldwin filters.
Pricing at Rockauto - Wix $8.53 Fram $12.55 and at NAPA $11.88 in store and $13.69 online.

From another online source, http://fueloilandair.com/filters/CG5...V8-283CID.html the following filters should all interchange:
BALDWIN PF860
BIG A 95042
CARQUEST 86042
FLEETGUARD FF132
FLEETRITE FFR-8132
FLEETRITE FFR8132
GENERAL MOTORS 854425
GENERAL MOTORS 854435
HASTINGS PF860
LUBER-FINER LG133
MOTORCRAFT FG 11
MOTORCRAFT FG11
NAPA 3042
WGB S-224-CP
WGB S224CP
WHITE 871646
WIX 33042

Last edited by Grant Bowker; 19-07-12 at 17:55. Reason: Added a longer list of interchangable filters.
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  #26  
Old 19-07-12, 02:05
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Fuel filter cross references

Hi Grant,
Thanks for that info. Biggest problem for us Australian restorers is lack of competition, choice, and overpriced parts. I paid $19.30 for my Baldwin PF860 filter 5 years ago. Mind you, our Aussie dollar was worth a lot less then.

Internet purchases looks good until you factor in shipping charges to Australia.
Had thought about bringing in a couple of oil filters back in my luggage on my next trip to the US but I could imagine a pannicked full lockdown of LAX if the TSA saw the outline of metallic cylinders in my suitcase on the xray machine. Bad idea Jacques!
Brgds,
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  #27  
Old 19-07-12, 10:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
Jacques,

I'll let you know about those measurements on Thursday.
Tomorrow I won't be getting home until after 1800hrs & quite dark by then.
No need to poke around in the dark Tony, my F60S has a battery box which I can whip off and drop in to Jacques for a pattern. Like yours it needs replacing, so it can be flattened out to reproduce the blank more precisely, and even disassemble the riveted cover bolts for possible reproduction. Will be a lot easier than working off photos and measurements.
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  #28  
Old 19-07-12, 10:45
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Default Tony & Jacques

Too easy!

For what it's worth, the metal thickness of mine is:
Imperial 0.0595in or Metric 1.5mm
These measurements are on a section where there was minimal surface rust to increase thickness too much.

The angle Jacques was enquiring about is not 45 degree on my frame. It is just a little over 45.

Tony, I had already checked this afternoon, before I saw your email. Also your photo is exactly like mine, where as the photo Jacques posted on 14th, shows one with a shallow lip on the front. Which is correct???

Nothing is ever easy, is it!
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  #29  
Old 19-07-12, 14:26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
your photo is exactly like mine, where as the photo Jacques posted on 14th, shows one with a shallow lip on the front. Which is correct???

Jacques' pic is correct - you and I have lost the front lip which is a separate piece. Looking closely at Keith's pic from the assembly instructions it appears to have a folded top edge, and the ends are folded around around the outside of the box, presumably spot welded to it.

Mine has been repaired in this area, with a new front lip being folded INSIDE the box, and roughly welded along the front edge. However you can see that the side has a cut away at the bottom to accommodate the thickness of the front lip, to make a neat flush join with the ends folded OUTSIDE. It's probably cleared on Jacques' pic which I've included here again.





The front edges of the box sides are recessed at the bottom to accommodate the thickness of the front lip section, making it flush with the whole front edge.
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7581564180_c7fd29e4f3_c.jpg   TONY4629.jpg   battery holder.JPG  
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  #30  
Old 19-07-12, 14:49
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it appears to have a folded top edge
Actually it may not, it could be just an artifact in the photo. All the straight lines appear to have been retouched.
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