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  #121  
Old 11-11-15, 23:21
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Next up was fitting the front suspention with some new bushings, pins and bearings. I was lucky enough to find a new set here in Holland. Removing
the old bushings and fitting the new ones was an easy job with help of the vise and a 19mm socket.
Afterwards the bushings had to be reamed to the correct size to accept the kingpin. The blades on my reamer were too short to work on both bushings at the same time....in other words there was a risk the surfaces of both ends would not end up inline, but at a slight angle. To solve this I made some plastic bushings on a CNC mill that would fit just around the shaft of the reamer and would just fit inside the bushing. I was quite happy with the result as the kingpins fitted perfectly after the reaming was done.

Alex
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  #122  
Old 11-11-15, 23:33
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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The kingpin set did come with some shims, but sadly not the sizes I needed to get both pins within spec. I tried to find some extra shims here in Holland, but didn't have much luck in finding the correct diameters.I tried to have a few made, but the trouble was that I wasn't able to find anyone who was willing to make just a few....as they had to buy a whole sheet of material just for this job.
I did find a set of correct shims at Speedway motors in the US, but I was impatient, so I didn't want to wait to loose days to transport...So, in the end I visited the local department store and bought the first cheap stainless China product I could find that had a flat surface big enough to make a few shims. I think it was some crappy dinner tray.....but after some work with a Dremel tool, it's now part of my Front suspension.
I am very happy how it all turned out...all within spec.

Alex
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  #123  
Old 12-11-15, 00:19
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Where did you find the bushing and are they the same as on a C15?
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  #124  
Old 12-11-15, 02:59
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Default king pin

For my C8, I managed to buy a king pin kit from Keith Downey . From memory it is 1 1/8" , the smaller size from the 30 cwt civilian truck. . The local garage guy here reamed the bushes for me . Usually, the reamer has a long pilot that screws onto the end of the reamer and guides the reamer as it goes through the bush. Neat idea using the dremel to make the spacers
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  #125  
Old 12-11-15, 14:22
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Niels,

I bought my kingpin set (bushings, pins, lockpin, dustcover, shims) from Prins truck parts here in Holland, (www.prinstruckshop.nl). I have just checked the bill and it's listed as "1947-1952 3/4ton + 1 ton" "order nr.39-208-1". I think I recently checked for Jacek...and C15 is different from C8.
Kingpin sets are also regularly for sale in Ebay, new as well as NOS.

Quote:
usally, the reamer has a long pilot that screws onto the end of the reamer and guides the reamer as it goes through the bush.
Mike, hmm....I inherited a bunch of different reamers from my late father in law...I think they hadn't been used for a very long time and I think that pilot went missing a long time ago


Alex
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  #126  
Old 12-11-15, 19:56
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Default Something to store away

Hi All

Reading about kingpin repair, reminded me of something I learned the otherday. Here in the States there is an company that repair kingpins and spindles on the truck. They have franchised mobile repair trucks. They go under the name AxleDoctor or AxleSurgeon

The trucks have the equipment to cut off a damaged axle drive spindle align and weld on new one. They cater to the truck and trailer business they also do kingpin replacement and line boring and bushing. Talking with a local heavy truck repair shop, they use them all the time when a spindle is messed up, in our area it's a flat fee of $500 plus parts. A recent spindle replacement on a ton an half town truck cost $550. The town was expecting $1300 for new housing and $1200 in labor to swap out all the parts and install.

Don't know if outfits like this could help us with our trucks, but may be worth checking.

Cheers Phil
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  #127  
Old 18-11-15, 23:30
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Quote:
They have franchised mobile repair trucks
Phil, I quite like the idea of those specialised repair trucks. I have also seen mobile sand blasting in action and have also heard about allow wheel repair trucks, mobile dent repair and paint shops.

Quote:
Neat idea using the dremel to make the spacers
Mike, it was quite easy to make the shims with the (fake) dremel and some simple tools. I just made sure to clamp the stainless to the workbench, as rotating tools and thin sheet metal can make a real mess.

Alex
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  #128  
Old 18-11-15, 23:38
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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The filling station sleeved my second master cylinder (thanks again Guido) and also supplied new U-bolts for the front axle. The correct size for the C8 was not available from stock, but they made a set of slightly longer bolts for just a few dollars extra.

This time with the master cylinder I cleaned all threads thoroughly and installed the cylinder after marking the studs with a white line.....just to make sure the studs wouldn't turn while securing the nuts (studs secured by hand this time and secured with some Lock tite).

The shock links were far gone. I tried finding replacements, but didn't have much luck.

Alex
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  #129  
Old 18-11-15, 23:53
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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I decided to re-use the C-shaped end that fits around the arm of the shock absorber, and have some new rods made up. The local machine shop made new ones for the front and back of the truck. I drilled a hole in the "C" and made sure the new rods would protrude about half an inch. Both pieces were than welded together.

Dirk at LWD has the proper NOS rubber bushings and retainers available (in the Ford section) for the axle end of the rod.
I bought a Dodge WC set from Jeepest in France for the other end, which supplied pin/bolt, nut and a new steel bushing for the rubber bushing in the end of the shock arm. I had already replaced the latter with new rubber bushings bought at a militaria fair (also Dodge WC I believe)....put the rubber in boiling water, hoping this would make the rubber softer and easier to fit....didn't really help....some grease did!

Alex
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  #130  
Old 18-11-15, 23:54
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Repairing shock links....

Hi Alex

Have you considered cutting the rusted part of your link rods and welding a grade 8 fine thread bolt of suitable lenght?

I sharpened the old rod and the bolt to a pencil shape...... used a section of 1 inch angle to insure line up of both rods.... just set the rods in the vee .

If you cut out a small window in a 12 inch angle iron section the rods will line up and the window will give you access to weld..... easy with a mig...... grind off any excess after and you done.

cheers
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  #131  
Old 19-11-15, 03:45
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Default shocks

Do the shocks on these trucks actually have any effect or movement ? being a short wheelbase and rather solid , there isn't much swaying or spring movement ? I didn't touch the shocks on my C8, and haven't noticed any problems with it on the road . Mike
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  #132  
Old 19-11-15, 04:26
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Not really....

With the amount of spring leaves they do not do much. I drove my rolling chassis C15a across rolling fields and did not notice much difference before or after the shock links were connected and all my shocks arms were naturally stiff and the shocks toped off with hydraulic fluid.

Maybe with a full load at speed (35mph) it might be different.

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  #133  
Old 19-11-15, 16:28
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Default On the shocks

Hi All

Bob is correct, with no load the shocks don't have much if any effect on the ride. On my HUP driving with out shocks is noticeable. I've noticed the difference even more when one of links breaks. With the HUP one disconnected is far more noticeable than pair.

On the 3 tons the shocks don't do much on cab chassis or even on C60L with cargo body because the springs are so stiff. I suspect that the once the GVW gets up around 10,000lbs on the 3 tons that the shocks start to work.

There used to be a nice straight uniform bump across are road where a culvert crossed under road. When I'd hit that driving the HUP you knew if a link had let go. Being a late version mine has the metal ball type and over the years all four have failed generally at the lower weld. Each has been rewelded. Pictures of link and break point http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/HUPdetailphotos.html

Alex think I'll follow your idea on having new shafts made, though Bob's approach might be quicker. The shocks for my C60L are still sitting on the shelf to be installed.

Cheers Phil
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  #134  
Old 01-12-15, 23:08
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Bob, I did indeed think about cutting the link and welding a bolt to the end, but I wasn't completely sure where to weld as I would also need the small lip to keep the retainers in position. This meant I either had to weld on a washer to act as a lip, or weld just below the existing lip.

Mike, regarding your question, I have no experience on driving CMP's, so I have nothing to add to Bob's and Phil's comments.....well, one addition maybe..... The front shock links on the C8 fix to a thick plate that is bolted to the front axle, as you know. One of these plates on my C8 did show wear and the round hole turned oval in the meantime. After checking I noticed the link and hole are not completely in-line, which obviously resulted in the hole turning oval.....so, there is some movement, but probably not too much as Bob and Phil described.

Alex
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  #135  
Old 02-12-15, 19:15
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default How I got around that little ring on the shaft....

I actually bought some shock link rods from Vintage Power Wagon knowing they were too short.

I used the upper protion of the original link from my cab 11 and cut/welded/grafted the bottom threaded portion of the new link rod....it gave me the ring and rubber bushings, cupped washers, new thread section and the whole thing looks like new. Also did another set just using long grade 8 bolts but needed to find the necessary fine thread and tack welded the cupped washer where the ring would have been.

Cheers
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  #136  
Old 31-01-16, 13:16
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Default Opinons please

Last week I sripped the dash panel from all knobs, bolts etc. and found some paint remnants....I would be very interested what others have to say about the colours!



I have found a satin black primer on the rear of the panel (normally hidden by the centre frame) and behind the bolts/washers normally fastening the panel to the frame.

Khaki green G3 can be found where the engine cover normally sits , behind some of the switches and behind the brace holding the steering shaft/tube.

A brown/red colour appears in several locations; first I thought remains of SCC2, but it might be Red Brown primer???

There is a rich brown/green colour behind the central fuel switch and on some of the sections of the dash; I think this might be SCC2???

The final colour is a blue-ish colour that is the top coat on all parts. Blue is the best description, so maybe a civvy post-war paint job, but it could also be a green that has faded to blue. Any opinions?




I hope the pictures help, but it was hard to capture the colours with the camera.

regards,
Alex
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  #137  
Old 07-02-16, 23:44
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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The paint remains are still keeping me busy. I took out my colour samples, painted according to Mike Starmers mixes ,and had another look at the dash.

The first picture shows the SCC2 colour chip on the left and the Khaki green G3 on the right. I am certain G3 is the pealing paint on the right....I am still not certain about the red/brown though....it could be SCC2, but could also still be a primer.
The second picture shows what was underneath the steering support....it looks somewhat like G3, but it seems brighter....Any ideas?

regards,

Alex

edit: I now see what difference light and angle can make.....the G3 sample in both pictures is one and the same, but looks totally different in both pictures!
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  #138  
Old 08-02-16, 02:38
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Default paint

Hi

My cab 11 C8 had faded KG3 patches , it was overall in that colour , no camo I could find .

The Cab 12 C8 I bought years ago was painted a blackish disruptive colour over green - the black was brush applied . It was all very faded and difficult to see .
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  #139  
Old 08-02-16, 06:24
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Default Color and light and time of day.....

In one of the military magazine a while back one of the Ordenance paint supplier had pictures fo the same Dodge WC 56 taken at the same angle during different time of the day and the shades of Od was all different.

I don't know how we can address this.... than different computer screen set up, etc. heck even the eyes of different people will see shades differently.

My wife, who sloves photography, does most of her wildlife photos during the golden hours........ 2 to 3 hours after sun rise and 2 to 3 hours before sunset... the rest of the time the contrast is too harsh and light colors blown out.

Have you considered using "Pink" as used on the Land Rover in North Africa????

Kidding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #140  
Old 08-02-16, 12:45
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Mike,

My C8 has some darker blueish green remains on the outside of the windscreen frame and cab rear wall. It could be Dark Green G4 camo, or Scc15...or even a post-war civvy colour.....so difficult to determine!

Quote:
Have you considered using "Pink" as used on the Land Rover in North Africa????
hmmm......Yes, maybe I am acting a bit silly. I have already made up my mind that the base of my C8 will be Khaki Green with Scc2 on the outside surfaces.....but I just want to try and investigate any paint remains, before I strip the parts and the info will be lost forever.

thanks for your comments, guys.

Alex
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  #141  
Old 08-02-16, 19:24
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Just a comment on the shocker link story.
The swaged/enclosed ball type end as shown in Phil's HUP photos were used on numerous later production trucks including DUKW, CCKW, Studebaker US6 and Dodge WCs to name a few.
The length of the rod varied but the ball end with its integral tapered and threaded mounting pin was pretty much standard, I've seen them with varying amounts of thread but they will interchange. The ball ends can be pressed out of the eye end and a replacement pressed in if available.
I acquired a quantity of NOS US6 links some years ago and pressed the ball ends out of quite a number for use on other vehicle types. Or original links can be cut and welded to make them the desired length without pressing out the ball ends.

David
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  #142  
Old 10-03-16, 01:23
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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This some work from a while ago...the pedals.

I fitted new bushings (Filling station) to the cast base and fitted a new bushing to the clutch pedal. I am really happy how the new bushings in the casting worked out, but I am still not very happy with the clutch pedal.....there is just too much play for my liking.......either the bushing itself has too much play with the shaft, or the shaft is not round. I have been thinking about this for months now, but I think I will disassemble the shaft and clutch pedal...have the shaft slightly machined and have a new matching bushing made.

Two questions.....
I believe originally the pedals weren't fitted with a rubber boot, but someone suggested I might need them for the Dutch licence. Any idea which ones would fit the cab 11 pedals? I have ordered a set of rubber boots, but they are too big (even though the shape seems the same).

The return spring for the brake pedal; On my C8, one end fits in a nice hole in the front-most cross member, the other end was fitted to the pedal mechanism...in a hole in a clevis pin. (picture attached hopefully shows what I mean) I wonder if this was the original setup as it seems the clevis pin can still move from side to side a little, with a cotter pin fitted to one end and the end of the spring to the other. I am not sure if this setup is the same for a C15, or if it's specific to the C8???

Alex
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  #143  
Old 10-03-16, 01:52
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Pedals to the metal.....

Hi Alex

Rubber boots and comfort were not part of the cab 11/12 repertoire.

My cab 11 nor any of the cab 12 had any rubber boots. You probably can fabricate something out of neoprene gasket material to seal around the pedal shaft. I would make it in two pieces and mount them from behind the floor plate with small no 6 screws flat heads inside a washer and nut on the back side. Two U shape pieces will be easier to install than forcing/stetching a one piece of rubber. Make sure the rubber has enough clearance so as not to drag on the pedal shaft. So far this is not a requirement in Ontario.

Now I did the same thing with the bushings on mine but got opposite results. My clutch pedal is dragging and will have to be removed and polished ever so lightly with a fine grit sand paper wrapped around a wooden dowel until it is a bit looser.

On the spring clevis thing.....

I checked on my early pictures......
the clevis pin for the brakes has the spring near the head of the clevis pin and in the centre most position near the clutch clevis. Heads of the brake clevis and head of the clutch clevis should both be on the inside near one another to minimize chances of the cotter pins getting hung up on one another.

Now is the time to do it...... removing the pedal cluster AFTER the sheet metal is on is a nightmare.... which is what I am about to do.......it is just that the front axle is very much in the way.

On your pedal cluster is it possible that the shaft is now worn out of round and would need machining and an oversize brass bushing custom made..... or can you live with the looseness as long as the clutch engages fully.

Nice job by the way.

Cheers
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  #144  
Old 10-03-16, 02:07
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Default Oooppsss

Thanks Alex

After comparing your pictures and mine I discovered that I have mounted my pedal bracket to the frame backwards...... you have your grease fitting in front for easy access..... I installed mine with the grease fitting pointing to the rear making it impossible to grease........

Now I am sure I have to remove it!!!

Cheers
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  #145  
Old 10-03-16, 23:14
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Quote:
Now I am sure I have to remove it!!!
You're welcome, Bob

Thanks for the confirmation on the spring and clevis pin layout. This means that the setup on my C8 is original. I guess I was expecting some sort of washer to go between the spring end and the cast part coming from the master cylinder. Anyway, I will get a new clevis pin and drill the required holes to match the original worn pin.

Uh....my bad, I meant "pad", not "boot". I have heard rumours that for Dutch licence they would like to see a rubber pad in stead of blank steel on the pedals....as there is less risk of sliding of a rubber pad on the brake pedal.
Maybe it's just rumours, but I thought I would just buy a set of pads and fit them if necessary.....but the problem is that the pads I bought from the Filling Station are too big for the Cab11 pedals.


Quote:
On your pedal cluster is it possible that the shaft is now worn out of round
Exactly what i was thinking. So, if it helps....I am also disassembling the pedal cluster, this weekend...

Thanks Bob!
Alex
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  #146  
Old 11-03-16, 07:14
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Default To pad or not to pad.....

had rubber pads bolted through the pedals..... which I removed.

I might add a few welding zig zags for traction.

Let me know how you make out with the shaft.

Cheers
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  #147  
Old 11-03-16, 08:10
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Hi Alex!

I think we have NOS chevrolet pedal pads. I will have a look Today if you want.

Mvg

Stefan
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  #148  
Old 11-03-16, 12:21
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Stefan,

Yes, please! As long as they fit the brake and clutch pedal of a cab11 C8 (I am not sure if cab 13 is the same size).

Alex
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  #149  
Old 11-03-16, 18:39
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Hi Alex,

They fit our C8 cab 12, so probably your cab 11 too!

Ciao,

Stefan
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  #150  
Old 20-03-16, 01:37
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Thanks Stefan! I have another good picture for your current project by the way......will send you an email.


The section of brake line that goes underneath the Radiator was originally secured with two spring type clips on my C8 . I found replacements for these at the filling station, but sadly one of them broke while trying to get it into the small holes of the crossmember. After fitting another I still wasn't very happy....the clips were a bit crooked and weren't really holding the brake line as they should. I presume GM used these spring type clips to allow some movement of the brake line while driving through terrain (P-clips and bolts were used on other locations), so I decided the way to go was a P-clip with a rubber insert to allow for some movement. I wasn't able to find any clips to my liking at the local parts store, so in the end I made some clips of my own.

I found some rubber hose at a Motorcycle parts shop that would just fit around the brake line, and cut this into sections of about 6cm. I cut strips from some 0,7mm sheet and used the vise, a chisel and a metal rod of the correct size to form the clips.


Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW
BSA Folding Bicycle
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