My first carrier: some assembly required - Page 3

super dave · #61 19-09-11, 06:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Schindel

Dave,I've got a couple cups with no fiber left in them as well.I am going to try a few layers of fiberglass.I don't think there is a lot of movement between the spring end ball and the cup,so it should hold up.

Sounds like that might work, Let me know how it works out for you.

super dave · #62 19-09-11, 06:14

I was able to get the replacement suspension arm blasted today and when I was cleaning the crap out of the two holes in the mount a couple surprises came out. There were 3, 303 shell casings dated 43 and one is a blank that was never fired

.

Lynn Eades · #63 19-09-11, 07:12

If you find another carrier suspension frame, there is a good chance you can salvage some cups and a shaft. There is a fair bit of movement between the ball and the casting. The cups are held in with rivets. cut the end of the rivets off and punch the rivets back in through the cup. be carefull with them. I glued mine in with Araldite, but they havent been tested yet.

super dave · #64 20-09-11, 16:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

If you find another carrier suspension frame, there is a good chance you can salvage some cups and a shaft. There is a fair bit of movement between the ball and the casting. The cups are held in with rivets. cut the end of the rivets off and punch the rivets back in through the cup. be carefull with them. I glued mine in with Araldite, but they havent been tested yet.

I removed the cups from the seized frame and will try to find some rivets to reinstall them. As for the shaft I have a couple more arms from the same unit but I am sure that they will all be in the same condition, Not greased since after the war

RichardT10829 · #65 20-09-11, 18:51

those cups I believe contain asbestos so don't go snorting dust off them mind

Lynn Eades · #66 20-09-11, 21:46

Quite often the shafts are in good condition. With the rivets, there are short and long ones. You could shorten a long one down. I think they are copper, so shouldnt be too hard to form a head if you can get some material the right diameter.

super dave · #67 21-09-11, 05:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Quite often the shafts are in good condition. With the rivets, there are short and long ones. You could shorten a long one down. I think they are copper, so shouldnt be too hard to form a head if you can get some material the right diameter.

I might try and take apart another suspension and see if that shaft may be any better than the last one, We will see. The rivet is a steel one that came out but a brass one may work as well, will let you know what I can find.

super dave · #68 21-09-11, 05:58

I managed to paint the tracks today as it was another great sunny day. I was not sure what to do with them at first as to paint them the same color as the carrier or the black, the black finally one me over and will give it a little contrast. I painted them as they were already sand blasted and wanted to kind of seal them up before they turned to rust once more. Now stored in the container to await the installation most likely in the spring.

super dave · #69 21-09-11, 06:13

I pulled apart my wiring conduit and connectors today as I have to replace all of the pipe as most of them are totally rusted away. everything was going great until i tried a piece of 1/2" pipe in one of the elbows to find out that it is too large of diameter

. It looks like the original pipe is about .050 smaller than what today's pipe size is. does anyone know if it is a special size (BSF ??) as the thread size is also smaller than the regular pipe tap as well

Lynn Eades · #70 21-09-11, 08:01

I think its B.S.conduit thread. You might have to find an old plumber to find the dies. 5/8 is 18tpi and 3/4 is 16 tpi.

RichardT10829 · #71 21-09-11, 08:03

Dave. there was a bit of discussion on paint..some disagree and some dont... i personally am going to paint mine in a diluted bitumen so they go black... Kevin has done this with his tracks....... anything you put on paintwise will be scrubbed off quite quickly.... i know John Bizal powder coated his black and they looked awesome.

rob love · #72 21-09-11, 10:17

IIRC the thread on the conduit coincidentally will match 3/4-16 UNF thread. I made a lot of my conduit for my first carrier and it worked perfectly.

super dave · #73 22-09-11, 04:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob love

IIRC the thread on the conduit coincidentally will match 3/4-16 UNF thread. I made a lot of my conduit for my first carrier and it worked perfectly.

IIRC ??? Thanks for the info on the 3/4 die size as I had one and tried it out and it will work great, What did you use for the 1" pipe as it requires a die with 16TPI and the only ones I have found were the 1" pipe which is 14TPI as the BSF dies are 10TPI. Would you know if there is anything of Metric equivalent ???

rob love · #74 22-09-11, 10:26

IIRC = if I recall correctly. This is a fairly std internet term, although I usually feel ridiculous using it.

For oddball sizes I had dies which you could replace and adjust the individual cutting bits. I simply moved the bits with the correct number of teeth into a larger die. You don't buy those sets at princess auto mind you. Failing that you could always go (where else) onto ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-16-UNS-Rig...item2567a85612

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-16-UNS-Rig...item5ae28800d0

Also, instead of using pipe, try using actual conduit. Easier to bend and it's the correct outer diameter. Only downside is it's all plated these days so you will have to sandblast it to get it to take paint. The stuff is available in lengths at any home depot.

super dave · #75 22-09-11, 17:22

Thanks for the breakdown of IIRC as I have not seen that one before. Also thanks for locating that die as I was on Ebay for awhile last night doing searches for 1" die 16 TPI with no hits at all, i guess I was looking in the wrong spot

. I will be using tubing for the conduit as our local Metal Supermarkets have it in the sizes I need. Now I can move forward on that section to hopefully get it all made up and painted here soon.

Lynn Eades · #76 22-09-11, 20:38

Does anyone know what the thread is for the brake adjuster main screw?
I tried to find something. I think its 3/4 dia. with 20TPI.

rob love · #77 22-09-11, 22:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Does anyone know what the thread is for the brake adjuster main screw?
I tried to find something. I think its 3/4 dia. with 20TPI.

I don't know if it is, but if so, I see them on ebay as well.

super dave · #78 07-11-11, 07:14

I thought I would give a little update as I have not had as much time to work on the carrier this last month but I have been able to get a lot of the pieces fabricated and painted. I now have most of the key pieces done now so I can get started on the assembly this winter and hopefully have it mostly done by spring time.

Had new rear fenders made up as I did not have any with the carrier. These are the brake rod covers and I guess the brake rod spring that is mounted underneath the covers. I used Doug's as a sample to make up some new ones.

super dave · #79 07-11-11, 07:21

The front fenders I purchased from john but I had to weld up the mounting holes and drill new ones to make them fit ( has anyone else purchased the front fenders from John and had any issues bolting them up or is it just me, Just wondering ??) any how I got them to fit now and they are painted and ready to go.

super dave · #80 07-11-11, 07:27

I blasted my wheels and replaced all the bearings with the larger 50mm ID bearings and had New spacers machined to make them work like some of the other members here as it was a lot cheaper than the 40mm bearings.

super dave · #81 07-11-11, 07:33

As I was blasting the wheels I noticed on just one of the wheels there was the C Broad arrow stamped on one of the spokes, Has anyone else seen the stamping on any of their wheels

Anyhow the bearings are installed and wheels painted ready for assembly.

kevin powles · #82 07-11-11, 19:28

hi dave, I had the same issue with the righthand wing from john, had to weld it up, he knows about this problem because i told him, hope he turns out future ones with the correct hole alignment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

I made up some of those steering rod covers, be careful on the left hand one as it runs pretty close to the cross tube and can foul on it if they are made a fraction oversize.

Nice to see someone else has gone for the the 50mm bearings, however i have seen pretty cheap 40mm ones recently.

nice restortation..................kevin.

rob love · #83 07-11-11, 20:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by super dave

As I was blasting the wheels I noticed on just one of the wheels there was the C Broad arrow stamped on one of the spokes, Has anyone else seen the stamping on any of their wheels

Anyhow the bearings are installed and wheels painted ready for assembly.

When I was first reassembling that carrier I had put on it a couple of NOS roadwheel. I seem to recall the C/i\ on them. Does the wheel with the marking appear very new? Perhaps just replacements were marked with the property marks. It would have been a lot of effort to mark every part on a vehicle otherwise.

SDeMocko · #84 07-11-11, 20:23

Looking great Dave!

Stephen DeMocko

super dave · #85 07-11-11, 20:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob love

When I was first reassembling that carrier I had put on it a couple of NOS roadwheel. I seem to recall the C/i\ on them. Does the wheel with the marking appear very new? Perhaps just replacements were marked with the property marks. It would have been a lot of effort to mark every part on a vehicle otherwise.

No NOS wheels came with the carrier all the wheels I have are used and some worse than others, It would be nice to replace a few with nicer ones but I have not seen any spares out this way

.

Dave Schindel · #86 10-11-11, 06:46

One of super dave's pics shows the springs that fit under the brake rods.Mine only had one left. What was their purpose?Anti-rattle?
Dave

Lynn Eades · #87 10-11-11, 07:18

Imagine going over bumps with those long rods only supported at the ends. Whats going to happen?.... Slap! Slap! Slap! That little bit of spring steel stops that happening.

SDeMocko · #88 11-11-11, 00:19

Hi Dave,

Your brake rod covers look great. So does the spring. I know I am showing my Carrier ignorance with this statement but...... I have never seen one of those springs before and didn’t know they were even under there. Is there anyway you could post a sketch with dimensions? I can’t be the only one that needs them. Thanks a lot!

Stephen DeMocko
So Cal, USA
’44 MKII

super dave · #89 13-11-11, 20:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDeMocko

Hi Dave,

Your brake rod covers look great. So does the spring. I know I am showing my Carrier ignorance with this statement but...... I have never seen one of those springs before and didn’t know they were even under there. Is there anyway you could post a sketch with dimensions? I can’t be the only one that needs them. Thanks a lot!

Stephen DeMocko
So Cal, USA
’44 MKII

Here is a diagram I made, Hope this helps

SDeMocko · #90 15-11-11, 01:00

Thank you Dave. That sketch will really help out. What material did you make yours out of? Spring Steel?
Stephen DeMocko