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  #121  
Old 21-07-15, 06:01
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As promised some pictures.
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03.jpg   04.jpg   02.jpg  
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  #122  
Old 21-07-15, 06:08
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Some more pictures. For creating the ends that are folded over I drew out a pattern on some paper and then traced it out onto the sheet. It was cut out using a zip disk in the hand grinder. I also cleaned up the edges with a hand file. The first edge I put the 90deg bend in prior to attaching the sheet to the frame. I then worked me way clamping and welding along the frame to the other end. This last time I simply hammered the edge down onto the frame, clamped it and welded. In hindsight if I had to do it over again I would probably start with clamping/welding the sheet in the middle and then working out to both ends.
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01.jpg   07.jpg   05.jpg   06.jpg  
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  #123  
Old 21-07-15, 18:41
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Nice job......

...obviously not working under wartime pressure of one spot weld every 5 inches.

Can you image the face of the guy redoing that rear wall 75 years from now!!!!!

Any problems bending the sheet metal in the curved corners...?

Cheers
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  #124  
Old 21-07-15, 20:05
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When I replicated the rear wall on my 12 cab, I made my piece of sheet and test fit before welding.
The folded over end, I broke first and clamped into place. I then rolled the sheet around the first corner, clamping as I went. I worked it to the other end, up around the corner to the front. I then marked it where it met the edge. I removed the sheet and added the required amount to the marked line I made on the second edge. I then boke this 90deg. So, I essential had a piece of sheet metal which was the correct lenght with breaks on both ends.
I then refit this to make sure it was OK.
As mentioned Jordan, I did start from the center and worked back and forth towards each end. I replicated spots welds only where they were supposed to be, which included along the cross bracing at the rear.
My main mistake which led to some difficulty was the fact that I used 16g instead of 18g. In the end a very good rear panel.
If you notice on original panels, the spot welds do show up. Thats they way they were made, quick and dirty.
Keep up the good work!
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  #125  
Old 21-07-15, 23:05
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Jordan,

Excellent work. Thanks for this step-to-step description....and great to hear you ( and Chris) managed to get the rear wall around the frame without pre-forming the sheet....that's something that has been bothering me for a while. I had already looked at the lamp post across the street, but it seems I can leave that alone

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  #126  
Old 21-07-15, 23:06
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Strange cab 12 rear wall.....

HI Chris

Of the 5 cab 12 and one cab 11 at the barn .....the rear wall does not wrap around the angle iron BUT finishes flush and spot welded..... I have only seen the wrap of the skin around on original cab 13 such as the water truck done at the Caldwells one year.

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  #127  
Old 22-07-15, 00:12
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I'd rather overkill it with the spot welds then under do it. On my original the welds were every couple of inches but it also varied a bit.

As for going around the corners it was really simple. The 18ga simply followed the bend of the frame. If I let it go it would spring back. But with clamps I could easily hold and pull it in tight.

I decided to smooth out my welds as I probably over did it with the heat a bit to get good penetration into the frame. On my original only a few of the spot welds were visible and that was usualy from the rust forming between the sheet and frame and pushing the sheet out.
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  #128  
Old 27-07-15, 19:28
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Things moved along rather nicely over the past few days. I finished all the welding and fitting for the lower cab wall. I then cleaned and metal prepped the metal using the POR products. The wall was given a spray of POR15 to seal against hopefully any rust. Then the usual tiecote primer and final SCC2 layer.

For the anti-sqeak material I used the product Mac's Antique auto parts sells. It worked great and matches the original stuff pretty closely. For making the curves along the frame I had to take small wedge cuts. I used 3M spray adheiseve to secure it to the cab frame and make sure everything stayed lined up while installing the wall.

The only other issue I had was the the wall ends wouldn't line up for the bolt holes. I think this may have partly been caused by the wall frame getting pulled a bit from installing the sheet. Ratchet straps came to the rescue and I was able to pull the ends in one at a time.

Lastly I installed my rebuilt/NOS rifle mounts. Its nice to see parts making their way from the cabinet to the vehicle. Slowly.... but its in the right direction.
Attached Thumbnails
wall06.jpg   wall07.jpg   wall08.jpg   wall09.jpg   wall12.jpg  

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  #129  
Old 27-07-15, 19:31
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Last group of pictures for now.

I did have a lot of trouble trying to get the long cab to rear crossmemeber/spring all lined up. I found my issue was that I bolted the spings down tight before installing the cab. I ended up having to undo the mount to frame bolts and this let everything move around and fall into place.
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wall10.jpg   wall11.jpg   wall13.jpg  
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  #130  
Old 27-07-15, 19:41
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Lovely work again Jordan. I also have the Anti squeak from MACs, but I think the original material might have been a bit more sticky(?). Maybe, it's worth trying to warm it with a paint stripper and than applying it?

Alex
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  #131  
Old 28-07-15, 03:20
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Nice work.....

My rear wall bolts on top of the dot and dash floor plate so I will have to use a rubber gasket/antisqueak soft enough to conform to the floor plate design.

I tested the bare wall frame and the holes do line up...... for now.

Been playing with test pieces trying to roll the proper curve at each end but with a full length / full width piece it is a bitch to hold over head when doing the second curve. Hoping to have a close fit.... preshaped panel that will require minimum clamping and gluing.

Was just toooooo hot and sticky for that kind of work today!!!!

Cheers
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  #132  
Old 28-07-15, 03:53
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Thanks guys for the compliments.

Alex I was thinking along the same lines but that's why I figured using he spray mount would work. It really grabbed the anti squeak and I had to be careful while pressing it down. I stayed away from softening it up with turpentine as I didn't want to wash away any of stuff in the cloth.

I wanted to try and pre shape the panel but had the same difficulties of getting the other end all matched up. That's why I opted to clamp and weld and slowly move along. My worry was that I'd get the other end bent and it would be off.

When I do the roof my plan is the same to slowly work along except for the fact that I think starting in the middle would be best. Time will tell though.
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  #133  
Old 07-10-15, 03:36
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Busy busy busy has been my life since mid August. Now its all back to normal again and Im happy.

Spent a few hours out in the shop today working on my dome lights.

The right side one is an original NOS light. The left side one has been made from scratch. I picked up 10 sockets on ebay for a few dollars and free shipping from China. Two months later they showed up. The orginal sockets were held on by rolling an edge over on the tabs. I decided for simplicity to solder them on. My next step is to redo the wiring with proper modern period style wires.

One thing I am looking for is a picture/details of the bracket these lights mounted to.
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domelight06.jpg   domelight07.jpg   domelight08.jpg  
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  #134  
Old 19-10-15, 13:21
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Finished the work on the spare tire carrier and tool box yesterday. This box is a copy that was made a number of years ago. I had to go back an do some minor work on a couple of details to make it closer to the originals. The pivot brackets for the clam shells and the hasp for the locks needed to be rebuilt. Lastly the clam shell retainers were made as the one original I had was rusted out.
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toolbox03.jpg   toolbox04.jpg   toolbox05.jpg   toolbox01.jpg   toolbox02.jpg  

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  #135  
Old 19-10-15, 14:11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
Finished the work on the spare tire carrier and tool box yesterday. This box is a copy that was made a number of years ago. I had to go back an do some minor work on a couple of details to make it closer to the originals. The pivot brackets for the clam shells and the hasp for the locks needed to be rebuilt. Lastly the clam shell retainers were made as the one original I had was rusted out.
Great job Jordan! Would you be so kind to post the dimensions of the pivot brackets for the clam shells? These were rusted out on mine, so I need to re manufacture them.

Thanks in advance!
Hanno
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  #136  
Old 19-10-15, 14:52
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Sure Hanno. Ive got the rusted right and left originals still at home.
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  #137  
Old 22-10-15, 01:14
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Figured out the hole issue for mounting the tool box today. Drilled the holes and eveything lined up really well. I did a final fitting and then pulled it all off to repaint the bottom and do some touch ups. I even tried out fitting the tool box into the tool box.
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toolbox06.jpg   toolbox07.jpg   toolbox08.jpg   toolbox09.jpg  
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  #138  
Old 22-10-15, 10:34
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Lovely work again Jordan!

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  #139  
Old 20-11-15, 18:49
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Rebuilt the steering gear box and the steering wheel this past week. Thankfully it didn't involve too much work as the internals were all in really good shape. Everything measured up well within the specs. I did the usual POR15 treatment for the case and the tube. A new wire was run for the horn connection between the button and the contact brush. One thing I wanted to clean up was the inside of the steering shaft as it had a lot of surface rust. I ended up using a 4' long steel rod with a slot cut in the end. I then wrapped some sandpaper into the slot. Put the whole thing into the tube then attaced my drill on the end and let it rip...errr..spin. A few minutes later I was done.
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steering01.jpg   steering02.jpg   steering03.jpg   steering04.jpg   steering05.jpg  

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  #140  
Old 20-11-15, 18:54
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And the steering wheel. I decided to go with the painted finish covering up the wood. The main reason was that the wood had suffered from being expossed to the elements for sometime and had split in a few places. The repairs needed on it were done with a 2 part epoxy putty. This meant staining/clear coat were not possible without it looking horrible. On the flip side the originals were all painted.

On the inside of the steering wheel hub there is two threaded holes. They look to be 5/16" dia. What are these for?
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steering06.jpg   steering07.jpg   steering09.jpg  
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  #141  
Old 20-11-15, 18:58
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Lastly I picked this up from a fellow MLU'er who thought it would look nice on my dash. It only needed a screw soldered onto its backside. That was easily done and now it looks right at home on my dash.
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dashjewel.jpg  
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  #142  
Old 20-11-15, 23:08
Bruce Parker Bruce Parker is offline
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Jordan, I think you have the order wrong. Once you find a button you then build a Chev around it. I've got two buttons...

Quote:
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Lastly I picked this up from a fellow MLU'er who thought it would look nice on my dash. It only needed a screw soldered onto its backside. That was easily done and now it looks right at home on my dash.
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  #143  
Old 20-11-15, 23:12
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Nice job......

....so when are you repainting the truck to match the steering wheel???

Kidding!!!!!

Cheers
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  #144  
Old 20-11-15, 23:51
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Yeah some days it feels like I am building the truck around one piece.....

I thought I would mix it up a bit. Right now its painted in US OliveDrab from G503. However Ive got a paint sample from Home Depot that matches the closest I have seen to Canadian KG#3. Next week I will be persuing getting it made into something non latex.
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  #145  
Old 28-11-15, 14:02
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I was able to replace the worn out and cracked steering column bushing yesterday with an original NOS one that I picked up. Looks way better.
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steering11.jpg   steering10.jpg  
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  #146  
Old 28-11-15, 14:09
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I have also finaly started in on the restoration of the roof. This one has suffered from the normal rust/rot areas along the rear lower bead, window frame and above the door frame/rain gutter areas. There was also substantial rusting along the front main frame piece. However the actual roof sheet metal was in pretty good shape. It just has a few holes that will need filling and one small spot that will need a patch.

So far I have just begun removing the bad areas. The previous owner had cut out the rear window and replace it with a solid panel. This will be getting an entier new panel put in with the upper and lower bead applied.

Lastly I have begun to modify a 6' long 2"x2" 1/8" thick angle iron piece for the front support. The original on mine was flat plate bent in a brake. By the time I am done my new piece will look the same.
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roof01.jpg   roof02.jpg   roof03.jpg   roof04.jpg   roof05.jpg  

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  #147  
Old 28-11-15, 14:16
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To remove the front support I first thought about trying to use a zip disk and going inbetween the sheet metal and the support. The figured it would be easier and quicker to use the air hammer with a chisel fitting. This worked really well for cutting through the spot welds. I will just have to hammer the front edge back to flat. Im thinking that if I drilled out the original spot weld holes to clean them up I can simply reuse them for welding the sheet back to the support.
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roof07.jpg   roof06.jpg  
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  #148  
Old 01-12-15, 02:15
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Finished making the front roof support today. The original was 1/8" plate bent. For mine I used angle iron and just rounded off the outside corner to make it look like it had been formed from bent plate. This will be a much better piece then what was left of the original part.
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roof08.jpg   roof09.jpg   roof10.jpg   roof11.jpg  
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  #149  
Old 04-12-15, 01:29
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Work today involved cutting out the upright cab roof frame on the passenger side. It had been badly rusted through in a couple of spots. A new piece was made up from 1/8" angle iron and was welded in.
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01.jpg   02.jpg   03.jpg  
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  #150  
Old 14-12-15, 14:23
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The past 4 days I managed to finish up the majority of the metalwork on my roof. I welded in a few large patches in the sheet metal skin where the cab bracing goes. After reading a lot on line and looking at pictures I managed to get a decent result from butt welding the patch in. I still had some issues with porosity but overall it was a very strong weld. When I removed the remains of the rear wall, in spots, the upper skin was torn away. I went back and cut out the bad sections with a zip disk and then welded in small patches. I found using a copper paddle tightly clamped behind the patch provided a strong backing and heat sink to keep the weld from blowing through. I also found that be cutting the wire tip each time and wire brushing I got a lot less porosity. It took me quite a few hours to weld in about 6 small patches but the end result is almost invisible. Any seams still showing on the inside will be covered up when the rear wall skin is welded in.
Attached Thumbnails
roof12.jpg   roof13.jpg   roof14.jpg   roof15.jpg   roof16.jpg  

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