#1
|
|||
|
|||
Jacking up a carrier
Any Do's and Don'ts when jacking up a carrier .. Dale
__________________
1944 GPW and Bantam trailer |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Use a heavy duty Jack and heavy duty stands!!!!!
__________________
Euan McDonald 4? C-GT (Aust) #8 44 C-GT (Aust) #9 42 Jeep, Trailer Aust 3 Welbike MK2 complete Welbike MK2 inconplete under resto C15A x3 C60S x1 ex ambo F60L x3 LP2a carrier SAR #4993. Trailer No27 Limber Trailer, Cario cargo Trailer, Pontoon semi Wiles Cooker 2 wheeled (jnr) |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
We use something similar to these to lift M113s, but might but a bit expensive for occasional use.
http://matjack.thomasnet.com/categor...gs?plpver=1001
__________________
Neil Yeo 1940 11 Cab F8 |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
as above... never place any part of your body between the contact surfaces of the track and the floor.... heavy duty axle stands are a must. make sure its on level ground and if need be use a base plate for any bottle type jacks.
common sense stuff i know, but its best said as folk tend to cut corners and get dead
__________________
is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Have her in gear and chock the track...
However, when I initially got my carrier and had to get underneath, I had a setup of railway ties to drive her up on in order to fit underneath and work effectively - I think this is safer than jack and stands (if you can work on it when it is up this way). Last year when I was rebuilding my shop I was fortunate enough to find a 12,000lb capacity, drive-on FKI Bradbury hoist, with wheels free option, for $1200 (our fleet mechanic was downsizing so I snapped it up)! Now I can work on and under in style! |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Good Topic be it Carrier or CMP
Hi All
Good topic for discussion, anything this big and heavy can do a lot of damage if it drops. My personal favorite is 8x8x30 cribbing blocks. I just like the idea of solid objects that are thicker than me that can't slip or tip over. But I really like Hans solution, you lucked out there. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Railroad Ties / Sleepers are what I use but they are just like the cribbing blocks when cut to shorter lengths to keep things manageable. One tie can be cut into four shorter blocks and they are pretty solid for holding the weight once you jack the vehicle up.
I've always used a 3-ton floor jack to get one end of the vehicle up and then move the blocks into place so the jack isn't under load later when working underneath the carrier. Used to place 5-ton jack stands beneath the carrier before the blocks but I had one literally fold up and collapse. Likely from my having been in the vehicle earlier and doing work which possibly caused the load to shift. It didn't fail while I was in or under the vehicle fortunately. Blocks are certainly safer, even though they are harder to manage than stands. Getting crushed will ruin the rest of your day. Assuming there is someone handy that can jack the vehicle off whatever part of your body is pinned.
__________________
David Gordon - MVPA # 15292 '41 Willys MB British Airborne Jeep '42 Excelsior Welbike Mark I '43 BSA Folding Military Bicycle '44 Orme-Evans Airborne Trailer No. 1 Mk. II '44 Airborne 100-Gallon Water Bowser Trailer '44 Jowett Cars 4.2-Inch Towed Mortar '44 Daimler Scout Car Mark II '45 Studebaker M29C Weasel |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
How's this for an idea?
__________________
Those who live by the sword will be shot by those of us who have progressed. - M38A1, 67-07800, ex LETE |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Having worked on flat bottomed armoured vehicles in government workshops, I can say that we would not use stands, timber blocks being order of the day. If the vehicle was nudged, it would just move on the blocks, but on stands, being metal to metal, it would likely slide off. Another point is with a thin armour floor it puts a point loading at the point of the stand.
__________________
Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Jacking up a carrier
Some important things to consider when undergoing jacking operations take your time and do it right!
1. Always jack on a level surface preferably concrete. 2. Check your equipment for faults. i. jack stands for cracks or missing floor pads ii. hydraulic jacks for proper fluid level and leaking seals iii. make sure the jack has sufficient capacity to handle the load. 3. If you are jacking a carrier that does not have a center divider make sure that the hull sits level and do a cross corner alignment check before any serious riveting work is undertaken. A small misalignment error at the bottom can equal a large error at the top. If you think I am preaching, I was a general safety officer and I have seen jacks collapse after blowing their seals, jack stands crack and collapse and cars fall off hydraulic hoists.
__________________
Roberta Jayne Melville CD II QJ MK I * universal carrier 1942 WLC Harley under restoration 1957 M38A1 jeep R.E.L. optical equipment Military manuals Field phones MK II 19 set (needs work) 4 MK III W-19 sets AN/PRC-9 CPRC-26 WS-29 componets WS-38 AFV WS-38 MK III WS-48 with generator WS-58 MK I MK V heliograph |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Lift her slowly on a suitable jack and use blocks mate.
Old railway sleepers (check not rotten....seen that a few time!!) chainsaw to length/size required! 1 rail sleeper is about £15.00 here and you can get 3 large blocks from one of them, cheaper than good heavy duty stand! If up in air for prolonged period you can alsi `TIE` them together with steel straps with holes in to put screws thru! And dont stick ur daft head under til its secure!
__________________
BETTER TO BURN OUT THAN FADE AWAY. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the tips everyone all points taken on board . Yes I have gone for timber blocks with rubber mat under hull to look after the paint work . I just jack up one corner to take off the double station on the hand right hand side . Once it was off , I jack her back down the level whilst I work on the station over the next week or so , The hull did creak and groan a bit as I lifted here up ... Dale
__________________
1944 GPW and Bantam trailer |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
It has been touched on. I always have a bit of wood between the hull and the jack. I jack under the vertical side plates, and I block the hull with pine blocks.
__________________
Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I've got one of those jacks
Quote:
Great photo Clive, I've got one those jacks it was in my HUP when I bought the HUP many years ago. Thing must weigh close to 200 LBS. As to the rest of what they were up to must have been a story. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com Last edited by Hanno Spoelstra; 05-10-13 at 23:00. Reason: edited quote |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Dale
I noticed your comment about putting rubber between the blocks and hull to protect the paint. If you plan on having the carrier sit on the blocks for some time, I would replace the rubber with cotton waste. Over time and under pressure, the chemicals in the rubber can react with the paint and the paint will stick to the rubber when you get around to removing the blocking from under it.
Also, my Father in law worked for many years in the Transcona Railway Shops in Winnipeg. Whenever they had to jack up a steam locomotive (steam jacks in the day), they put a wad of cotton waste on the top of the jack to prevent any metal to metal slippage from happening. David |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Much like Richard, when we're working on the bigger stuff there isn't much that beats a big lump of wood. It spreads the load over a wide area and provides a good amount of friction to prevent slippage or movement.
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
I suppose everyone is a bit skittish about saying it as forum members are no doubt smarter than the average bear but under no circumstances should bricks or breeze blocks be used to support any vehicle at any time let alone something as heavy as a UC no matter how pressing the job.
Common sense cannot be relied upon as it is becoming less common in the population at large and so the compulsion to state what would be innate knowledge to most. Wooden blocks cannot be beaten for supporting a vehicle under most circumstances although axle stands are very good. Over the years I have found that the red-gum posts used in Australian suburban fences are an excellent source of material when cut to length and still can't help picking them up when I come across them. David
__________________
Hell no! I'm not that old! Last edited by motto; 05-10-13 at 22:51. |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
X2 on the reccomendation against bricks. I have seen cinderblocks disintegrate under weight...
|
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Was there wire connecting those posts at the time of collection? Or more accurately, an electric service wire running to the address behind the fence posts?
__________________
Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
After reading through this posts, maybe I missed it but one should never, ever work on a vehicle that is supported on a jack or jackstands.
The blocks as described are the best, making sure that the load has been released from the jack and is bearing solely on the cribbing. Another area that is often ignored is the substrate. While maybe not quite so worrysome in your garage, jacking loads outdoors often has its own challenges. As was pointed out previous, make sure the fround you are working on is solid, preferably concrete. Soil, grass, gravel and even asphalt tend to give. I have seen all too often where guys will lift a load with a jack and toss a block under the frame "just in case". Many times the load hovering above the block. This is foolhardy because if the jack slips, rolls, get nudged etc the "safety" block may fail to catch the load on the way down, get split, dislodged or otherwise be pushed aside. The company I work for moves loads (mainly jack and slide) often in excess of 200-400t so I have a bit of an idea....
__________________
3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Have used both wood blocks and truck stands and to be honest prefer the stands for carriers, easier to set correctly etc I use 5T stands as a minimum ..... over 10T Armour go the wood blocks if you don't have specific hull frame stands. Most importantly however- do not support the weight on the floor plate. All stands/blocks should be on the corner's of the hull, where the side meets the floorplate, the weight bearing ability of the side plates is far better than the floorplate. I use a frame spot welded to this location to move hulls in the workshop, when the frame is cut off, it leaves a couple of weld dags that locate the stands nicely, and no slipping issue. Same locations should be used when jacking also FYI- sliding the jack under the floor is not the best way to go.
Rob |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
We don't normally have power connected to our suburban fences though in some parts that wouldn't be a bad idea. David
__________________
Hell no! I'm not that old! Last edited by motto; 10-10-13 at 12:52. |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
For anyone in the Fraser Valley or on Vancouver Island looking for a lift:
https://www.gcsurplus.ca/mn-eng.cfm?...1&sf=ferm-clos |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Jacking bar finish? | Jordan Baker | The Carrier Forum | 9 | 21-07-13 01:50 |
Suspension Jacking Wedges | kevin powles | The Carrier Forum | 2 | 05-03-11 02:40 |
safe jacking of UC mk 2 | Piper | The Carrier Forum | 44 | 24-01-08 23:49 |
WTB.. Universal Carrier, Jacking Bar | B. Harris | For Sale Or Wanted | 1 | 24-10-07 05:12 |