F8 clutch - help!

[david moore]

Need some advice on what ails my clutch! I can't disengage it enough to get into any gear when the engine is running. The clutch pedal operates the throwout bearing lever seemingly all the way - and when the engine was out, bearing lever and throwout bearing seemed to work just fine. Could it be that the clutch disc is "welded" closed by long neglect? (Yes, of course I should have disassembled the clutch while the engine was out but it seemed OK at the time!) I have even removed the sheet metal around the clutch pedal since the pedal was fouling on the foot well metal. Still no joy.

Another point with the clutch - the book says to adjust the pedal/ rod to give an inch or so free movement - but the pedal/rod system is rigidly linked such that the throwout bearing lever moves instantly with pedal movement - so what is meant by "free movement"?

[gordon]

One of the rod links in the clutch mechanism should be a threaded adjuster - if it's not there find out where it should be and put it in.

The inch of free play isn't critical, but it is critical that there is some, so you can see that the clutch is fully disengaged. Otherwise you risk burning out the clutch by effectively running with it part-disengaged all the time. One inch is a good figure for it.

Freeing the stuck clutch can be tricky. Start with blocking the pedal down to the floor, then start the engine and warm it up.

Next switch the engine off, put it in first, and immediately restart - obviously it will jerk forward as you do.

Then just drive it in circles in first gear, waiting for the clutch to pop loose. it helps if you can go uphill, downhill, over a couple of kerbs to jar the transmission. Obviously your only safety devices here are the brakes and ignition switch, so best done out in a field or away from anything fragile.

I have heard of people doing this and deliberately running into a tree at walking speed, but that always seemed a bit drastic to me. While you are driving it, try not to switch it off untill you are back close to your parking place or you can just bet it wont restart.

If all else fails you can take off the cover plate and try to pry it loose with a flat blade, but that would be the second last resort (the last being to pull the engine or gearbox)

[david moore]

Thanks for your helpful comments, Gordon.

The little cover doesn't really give access to the clutch disc but I can see that the three release arms are working as they should but the disc is staying firmly in place. I tried a variant of the shock tactics given the confined space that I am in - I jacked up a rear wheel and tried shock starts that way but no luck; solidly engaged all the time..

Given the likelihood of the last resort, I'm inclined to think that getting at the clutch via removing the drive shaft/gearbox is much less hassle than getting the engine out. Am I right in thinking that I have to drop the oil pan so as to get at the three pairs of cap screws that hold the clutch pressure plate cover/disc in place? I guess that I would have to rotate the engine with the crank to bring them around for access - I don't think I can get at them where the main engine casting is in the way. The book says to undo them a turn at a time so as to reduce the risk of distorting the pressure plate cover.

Any further advice welcome

[gordon]

Well I've only ever worked on the Ford V8 in my snow blower, and I do recall that the bellhousing did limit access to the clutch area.

I'd be very reluctant to remove the transmission just to fix this, unless you are ona schedule and need it fixed right away. I think you should seek more advice on here and see if anyone else can come up with a better solution.

[david moore]

My clutch is free, free at last!
I used a combination of advice received :
1.-- shortenened the operating rod from the pedal by adding more threaded portion/lopping a half inch off the end and tightening it up at the clevis so as to shorten the excessive free play and maybe getting a more complete "throw" on the actual clutch fingers

2.-- plentiful spray of brake cleaner through the little access hatch onto the general area of the clutch disc

3.-- putting the back axle up on stands and just spinning it on the starter in gear with the clutch pedal pressed down and applying the foot brake intermittently

and bingo!

Thanks for great advice - that's what MLU is all about for novices like me!

[gordon]

You'll always find advice here, most of it good.

Make sure to check it every few months in case it sticks again, but you should be OK now.

[Gunner]

David:

Try cutting a piece of wooden dowel (broomstick works well) and use it to hold the clutch pedal down a bit to keep the clutch just slightly open when storing for a long time. Won't hurt the fingers and springs and will keep the darn thing from seizing again.

Cheers! Mike

[david moore]

Good idea, Mike - will do!
I do get a lot of condensation in my garage when a warm-up follows a deep freeze. That's when the rust bugs bite.