How To: 1944 Chev HUW restoration

[8threcce]

Looking great Bruce!

[Mike Kelly]

Was the wireless set in the HUW demountable for use as a ground station ? Along with the chorehorse and batteries which would have been set up on the ground ? Did the HUW carry the golf bag 34ft mast kit and the long range wire antennas ?

[8threcce]

Don't believe it did, for what I have seen sofar is dat the wireless was mounted on the wirelesstable directly behind the driver and co driver in a fixed setting.
It did carry the golfbag and antenna mast which was mounted to the truck

[Bruce Parker]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

Was the wireless set in the HUW demountable for use as a ground station ? Along with the chorehorse and batteries which would have been set up on the ground ? Did the HUW carry the golf bag 34ft mast kit and the long range wire antennas ?

Yes, the 19 set was 'quick release' in two ways. If it was on the No.23 wooden board (the HUW also used the British HP set and Canadian Amplified 19...both not all that portable) it could be slid off its No. 1 rails and carried off to a trench. Alternatively the entire table with the radio and Charging Switchboard No.5 could be removed, as could the seats (all three) and battery trays, so completely portable. Everything was clamped to the floor with 5/16 threaded nuts capped with the same cast wheels used for the CMP windshield arms. The generator was on a metal tray that slid into rails in its cabinet, so again portable.

The wiring. The truck was 6 volts, and the back running its own 12 volt system completely independent of the truck. On the left side, screwed to the forward face of the generator cabinet was a switch box that connected the generator to either the battery sets or the radio and was used when the 19 set was in the truck. If removed, the same switching was accomplished by that No.5 Switchboard under the wireless table.

There is provision to mount a 20' or 34' telescoping mast on the outside right, its base on the running board and clamped up near the roof. There is also straps on the inside top tight that may take one of these masts but I think was a leftover from the 11 set.

[Mike Kelly]

OK the HUW crew members would have been busy lifting all of that heavy equipment in/out .

The British No.9 set was also setup as a ground station as seen in this film.
https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C189873

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Dutch C8A HUW "CZ 4210417" set up as a radio post at Longues sur Mer, Normandy, June 2004. Not sure if this is an accurate display, but it gives an idea.

[Bruce Parker]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Dutch C8A HUW "CZ 4210417" set up as a radio post at Longues sur Mer, Normandy, June 2004. Not sure if this is an accurate display, but it gives an idea.

Attachment 125117

Thanks Hanno, a nice pic that illustrates a HUW very well in a static position with the telescopic masts erected, a very impressive display. Four masts is a little overkill as there would usually be one serving as a radiating element or two to support a horizontal wire dipole aerial.

I think I may have corresponded with the owner of this truck many years ago and received some very helpful information.

[David Dunlop]

Hi Bruce.

I think you and Hanno are right.

This display was probably set up in a designated area at the event in question, for people with ‘wireless stuff’, with focus on DISPLAY, not ‘PROPER WIRELESS PRACTICE’.

If you look at the two right hand mast assemblies closely, both are configured as vertical radiators with the A-Set whips fitted to the tops of the masts. They are also sharing guy wire stakes directly behind the motorcycle, by the looks of it, placing the masts too close to one another for good working, particularly if one mast was connected to a more powerful transmitter than was using the other mast.

The right hand mast is probably related to the right hand tent and if the HUP pulled away for a moment, we would probably see yet another display setup of some form.

Nice display of various wireless setups never the less.

David

[Bruce Parker]

I began the front end today. It will require general straightening, a few patches and a number of captive nuts need to be replaced (while I can reach behind to do it). A few are going to cause trouble and as a last resort I may weld the holes shut then re-tap.

Also, some ugliness inside the outer windshield posts. I figured they would be full of rust and sand and they were. Getting rid of the rust and new skin should fix things up.

[Bruce Parker]

Silence doesn't mean no progress (well, sometimes it does). We had a very hot summer that made working on the HUW ***painful*** and the wife does demand her share of me.

Anyway, I went through with a clipboard determining every nut and bolt I required (which Facca Fasteners more than ably provided) and have been tinkering away. What I thought was a few days to clean up and re-tap all the holes in the cab turned into two weeks. Every single hole is a captive nut and every single one was broken or cut off. Even though it doesn't look like much I'm happy to say every single captive nut has been replaced and is now able to accept the seats, filler panels and front cowl.

Not in the pic but completed is the brush guard. I had a 15cwt one but it had to be adjusted to fit the smaller HUW.

Plans before the snow flies is to prime and paint (at least the engine compartment) ready for the engine back from the shop, and to use all that new hardware to bolt on all the pretties.

[David Dunlop]

Good progress overall, Bruce.


David

[Bruce Parker]

It is inevitable that any post war CMP Chev owner who ever removed the original 216 engine cut the cab crossmember located roughly between the transmission and bell housing. It isn't necessary, but it simplifies the engine removal and replacement because you don't have to remove the transmission shift tower. So just lazy.

My HUW suffered this fate together with some other nips and cuts to the floor for who know what but, thanks to a donor piece of channel from another Chev and some creative welding, the damage has been undone.

New piece fitted, clamped and then welded in place. I only hope all those post war users weren't right after all and the transmission really does fit under the cross member. MBC2 says it does... It also restored the obviously necessary starter lever that is attached to that crossmember.

[Jordan Baker]

I had that issue even with the shift tower off. I had to jack up the rear cab frame as much as it would go to get the transmission in.

[Bruce Parker]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

I had that issue even with the shift tower off. I had to jack up the rear cab frame as much as it would go to get the transmission in.

In theory it should work. My gap is 11-1/4" and the transmission without tha tower is 11". I think any angle at all due to the engine/transmission combo on the hoist will make it tight. The manual makes it sound so easy: disconnect everything, remove the transmission tower and push the truck out from under the engine. I have left myself the ability to lift the body if required; there are only two of the eight body bolts holding things together and they are finger tight.

The other thing that may change the angle is that the HUP series of engines sits lower in the front than in C-15As and bigger. Those have a cast spacer on the front engine mount absent in Heavy Utilities.

HUW/HUP cab floor and toe boards are different as well but that is another story. Let's just say it's irritating doing things twice once you realize there's a difference (and the better of the two that were straight and without rust holes were the wrong ones).

[Bruce Parker]

Window test fitted to the rear door. It will need some tweaking and a rubber seal between the frame and the door.

[Bruce Parker]

i finished up the repairs on the cab and front cowl and they got a coat of primer today.

i did find one odd thing perhaps another HUP/HUW owner can verify. On the cowl, passenger side floor there was a rough hole about an inch long and maybe 3/8" wide. Because it was rough and it somewhat matched another hole punched through the front just inboard of the headlamp socket I figured 'bubba' did it post war and I patched both holes. But when I looked at the underside of the hole through the cowl floor I saw that the sheet metal panel where it was was factory notched, perfectly rectangular. Bubba would not have done that even if he could reach it. So I think I patched a factory hole. But for what? Could it be the wire to the map lamp? I've attached a sketch of what might be if anyone can confirm or deny.

[Jordan Baker]

Map lamp wires would be on the cab frame under the windshield and not the nose.

[Bruce Parker]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

Map lamp wires would be on the cab frame under the windshield and not the nose.

So does the wire feed from the top end of the engine bay? If there was anything to my theory the wire to the map lamp would have to come up from the frame rail on the left side. If from the top it would have to sneak by the uprights for the engine cover and through the channel under the windshields.

I just had another look. At the very top of the triangular channel that goes from the floor to the channel under the windshield on the left side of the engine bay there is a half inch hole. It makes more sense the map lamp wire feeds through that. So what is my mystery hole?

[David Dunlop]

Hi Bruce.

There was a fairly well defined division of labour in the CMP cab; the Driver drove and the Co-Driver would navigate on his behalf. By 1944, if Map Lights were being fitted in the cab, it would seem more logical for them to have been positioned on the left side for the Co-Driver, like the Signal Buzzer in the WIRE-5 15-cwt.

Any new wiring showing up on the Driver’s side of the cab would likely be to assist in operation of the vehicle. Perhaps specific wiring to mount the suction cup style, glass windshield defroster assemblies for example.

I wonder if the AEDB Design Records shed any light on this mystery.

David

[Bruce Parker]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

Hi Bruce.

There was a fairly well defined division of labour in the CMP cab; the Driver drove and the Co-Driver would navigate on his behalf. By 1944, if Map Lights were being fitted in the cab, it would seem more logical for them to have been positioned on the left side for the Co-Driver, like the Signal Buzzer in the WIRE-5 15-cwt.

Any new wiring showing up on the Driver’s side of the cab would likely be to assist in operation of the vehicle. Perhaps specific wiring to mount the suction cup style, glass windshield defroster assemblies for example.

I wonder if the AEDB Design Records shed any light on this mystery.

David

Hi David. How these were used (except for bubba) is as interesting as the mechanicals themselves.

There is no question where the map light sits...I have the lamp and the holes. It sits on the channel frame just under the windshield smack in front of the co-driver on the left. The question is if the feed wire comes from the centre of the vehicle (what I'm calling the engine bay) along that windshield channel to the lamp (which I think is correct and there's a hole for it plus the wire is completely protected) vs. along the left frame rail and up through my mystery hole. There really is no other options and no need for anything else electrical in that location. Maybe my hole was bubba after all and he just got lucky with a notch on the underside. For now it stays plugged.

The only record I recall reading about HUWs many years ago was a list of things that broke and fell apart after one of those army torture test runs. It was quite a long list leading me to believe these trucks were somewhat fragile. No matter, I intent to baby her.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bruce

I know what the hole is for and will take some photos to explain today if I can. Basically it's for the side shield in the wheel well.

Cheers
Phil

[Bruce Parker]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Bruce

I know what the hole is for and will take some photos to explain today if I can. Basically it's for the side shield in the wheel well.

Cheers
Phil

Well that's got my attention!!! It's just inboard of the four holes for the rad overflow can so I doubt you can get your fingers in there from the underside. So another captive nut (...I'm getting sick of them) on the shield?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bruce

On the later HUPs that hole is one of two mounting studs for the splash shield on earlier trucks this shield was held in by 5 bolts the later ones are a slip in and turn latch.







Yes you can just get the shield out without removing the expansion tank. You turn the latch pull out on the panel and scrape your knuckles. The two mounting post/studs are a source of rattles and squeaks.

My expansion tank is fabricated about 40 years ago still good, and yes it works very good to collect the over flow and have it drawn back into the engine.


Hope these help. Also took some photos of the map light and how the wire is routed if you want them. Along with the wire route for the dome light.


Cheers Phil

[Bruce Parker]

That's it Phill. If you ever want to sacrifice a little skin I'd love details on that panel so I can make one. Mine is long gone.

What was confusing me is that my hole was not a clean punched oval like yours. It looked more like an irregular torch cut. Anyway, simple to correct as the cowl is off and accessible.

I have some of those access covers that came off a 60cwt Chev but of course they will be different...

I would appreciate any info on the map light (HUWs don't have a dome light). It has its own switch so the power must come right off the ammeter? I expect it would be before the ignitions so it could operate all the time with no worries.


One additional question, that turn latch at the front, I assume it attaches to the left side of the rad carrier?

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

That's it Phill. If you ever want to sacrifice a little skin I'd love details on that panel so I can make one. Mine is long gone.

What was confusing me is that my hole was not a clean punched oval like yours. It looked more like an irregular torch cut. Anyway, simple to correct as the cowl is off and accessible.

I have some of those access covers that came off a 60cwt Chev but of course they will be different...

I would appreciate any info on the map light (HUWs don't have a dome light). It has its own switch so the power must come right off the ammeter? I expect it would be before the ignitions so it could operate all the time with no worries.


One additional question, that turn latch at the front, I assume it attaches to the left side of the rad carrier?

Hi Bruce


For a while my help will be limited to taking photos, or finding photos I've already taken. Right now I'm waiting to have back surgery, my ability to bend, extra, is limited as is my time at the computer.



But keep posting on your progress, reading all the post in MLU is one of my favorite activities, that I can do on tablet when laying down.


Cheers Phil

[Bruce Parker]

Sorry to hear that Phil. I hope you're up and about quickly.

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Bruce


For a while my help will be limited to taking photos, or finding photos I've already taken. Right now I'm waiting to have back surgery, my ability to bend, extra, is limited as is my time at the computer.



But keep posting on your progress, reading all the post in MLU is one of my favorite activities, that I can do on tablet when laying down.


Cheers Phil

[Bruce Parker]

I found this pre-restoration pic of my HUW. You can see the rectangular impression where the map lamp was along with the holes on the left for the wire and switch. You can also see the oval hole below for the filler panel pin, and the four holes for the radiator overflow can. Second pic is of the tatty but recoverable map lamp.

[Bruce Parker]

A couple to give Phil something to follow...

[Bruce Parker]

I test fit the front cowl today (before I go on, two points: asking your wife to help with something like this risks divorce, and it's amazing how the neighbour from two doors down offered to help "any time I needed him" but only after he watched the wife and I wrestle the cowl into place).

Not all that satisfactory as the years and moving the cowl around have obviously warped it a bit and it will take some doing to get all the holes lined up.

[Jordan Baker]

A long tapered punch is your friend for getting all the holes lines up.