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  #271  
Old 10-11-23, 17:17
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Nice find with the Ignition Switch, Jordan. That original one left no clues at all it had been stamped with its ID.


David
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  #272  
Old 11-11-23, 06:16
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The original breather tube is all fixed up. Itís not perfect, however it came out pretty good. I ended up having to cut the tube at the crease and then slowly work the metal back into shape. Once that was done I welded it up then sanded down the welds to get it smooth.

I had tried to bend new tube using sand but it did not work well for me. In the end Iím glad it didnít work as it meant the original ended getting rebuilt.
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  #273  
Old 15-11-23, 00:12
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Todays allotted time in the shop (kids are napping) I managed to get the original battery tray removed. It was held in by 4 carriage bolts. I tried removing the nuts but the bolts ended up spinning around in the wood. In the end I used a Zip disk to cut the heads off the bolts. Yes this did mean that I had to cut into the wood and produce copious amounts of smoke in the shop. However the wood was too far gone to use again. Lots of dry rot had taken place.

The wood shall provide a very nice pattern to make a new one. I should also be able to use all of the original metal parts. It’s a simple construction of three pieces of white oak with a tongue and groove slot. Two metal angled pieces along the long top sides. One the end there is two flat bars with the vertical retaining rod and counter sunk holes for screws. It’s refreshing to see true 1” thick pieces of wood.

The last picture shows just how much crud came loose from the tray’s removal. The area had been vacuumed prior to removal.
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IMG_0760.jpg   IMG_0762.jpg   IMG_0763.jpeg   IMG_0764.jpg   IMG_0761.jpg  

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  #274  
Old 15-11-23, 01:25
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Hi Jordan.

Is this tray for the wireless batteries, or the vehicular ones?



David
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  #275  
Old 15-11-23, 02:33
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David,

The Otter used two 6v batteries in series to make 12v. The batteries were used to power both the vehicle and the radio. It also had an oversized generator and heavier wiring for the charging circuit to allow for a quicker charge back into the battery.
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  #276  
Old 16-11-23, 00:58
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Back to the breather tube......

..... did the 270 GMC engine not come equipped with a PCV connection like later 216????

Just curious and anxious to see your rebuilt batt. box.
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  #277  
Old 17-11-23, 03:18
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Hi Bob

Yes the engine came with the same style of PCV connection as the 216ís. The breather tube I fixed up is the inlet. It has an oil bath air filter on the top. Itís very similar to the standard CMP ones except that it has a screw top as well that acts as the filling spot for engine oil.

AndÖÖ back to the futureÖ.errr battery tray

The battery tray is all rebuilt. The original metal parts were all sandblasted and fitted onto the wood to ensure all is good. The new wood was made to the same measurements as the original including the tongue and grove joints. Now to try and figure out what the four small holes on the angle iron were for? The last mystery is what colour was everything?
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IMG_0795.jpg   IMG_0796.jpg   IMG_0797.jpg   IMG_0798.jpeg  
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  #278  
Old 17-11-23, 03:40
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Jordan.

Assuming because these two batteries are dual purpose for vehicle and wireless, were they just the bare, rubber cased batteries held in place with a metal top frame and wing nuts on the two posts?

Could the small holes be to secure retaining chains for the two wing nuts? If so, perhaps both front and rear angle iron strips were drilled the same so installation was not critical.

David
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  #279  
Old 17-11-23, 05:23
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David,

This is the only photograph I have come across showing the batteries. There does appear to be a cover over the top.

The stowage diagram only shows the batteries and a basic tray.

The Illustrated Spare Parts List CRAC-02 is quite limited on the illustrated parts.
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IMG_0799.jpeg   IMG_0800.jpg   IMG_0923.jpg   IMG_0924.jpg  
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  #280  
Old 19-11-23, 23:32
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Two sets of wheel rim nuts ready to go. These were all sandblasted then 24hrs in Evaporust. Followed by cleaning out the threads with a tap. The wheel rim studs had been over painted with the POR15 when I painted the rims. This meant running a die over the studs to clean up the threads. Interestingly most of the nuts had remnants of red paint under the crud.
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IMG_0963.jpeg   IMG_0964.jpg   IMG_0965.jpg   IMG_0966.jpeg  
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  #281  
Old 11-12-23, 16:02
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Hard to believe it has been 4 years already since this vehicle was cleared from customs and picked up.
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  #282  
Old 11-12-23, 16:18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
Hard to believe it has been 4 years already since this vehicle was cleared from customs and picked up.
Time sure flies, but you make very good use of it! I'm very pleased this Otter is in your hands and being restored as thoroughly as you do.
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  #283  
Old 24-12-23, 22:56
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All four towing shackles removed and dissembled. Thankfully no heat was required. The Milwaukee impact driver did amazing work on the bolts and nuts getting everything removed. The shackle bolts did need to go in the shop press. These parts will all clean up nicely.
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IMG_0992.jpg   IMG_0993.jpg   IMG_0994.jpg  
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  #284  
Old 27-12-23, 03:35
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Towing clevis all sandblasted and cleaned up. Other than the four 9/16-18 castle nuts, all of the original bolts and nuts will be used. Interesting manufacturing marks were found on two of the clevis bolt heads. I believe they are ďB DĒ Iím not sure what company that would have been.
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IMG_1006.jpeg   IMG_1007.jpeg   IMG_1008.jpeg   IMG_1009.jpeg  
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  #285  
Old 27-12-23, 23:12
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Todays job was to remove the engine hand crank hole cover plate. Only one of the bolts had to be cut. The nut had been crudely welded in place and the force of the impact driver had snapped the weld. Due to the weld blob I was unable to get a socket on it. So I resorted to zip cutting the head and cold chiseling it off. The original bolts were those dome headed counter sunk ones anyway. So I wasnít concerned about cutting an original bolt.
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IMG_1020.jpg   IMG_1021.jpeg   IMG_1022.jpeg  
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  #286  
Old 27-12-23, 23:30
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The other bit accomplished today was removing the two engine cover panels and hinges. These were all held in place with the domed countersunk bolts. Thankfully they all came apart easily. Much easier thanks to the use of the course thread than the BSF thread as used on Universal Carriers.

I modified a slot attachment for the impact gun by grinding it down thinner to fit the slot on the bolts snug. Using a socket or wrench on the nut side I was able to use the impact driver and get them removed. On some I used an old broken screw driver to hold the screw head side and impact gunned the nut side.

There were four hinges to remove and 16 bolts. All will be reused on assembly. It was also great seeing he Hamilton Bridge part numbers turn up on the hinges after sandblasting.
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IMG_1023.jpg   IMG_1024.jpg   IMG_1025.jpeg  
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  #287  
Old 28-12-23, 16:49
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Hi Jordan
I’m all for originality but does the structural integrity not concern you when reusing 70 year old fasteners? I can see using them
in areas where there is little stress or minimal force but I would never use them on any area requiring them to perform to engineered specifications.
Even leaf springs can be questionable, as spring steel grows weak and brittle, especially once it is pitted. Ask me how I know…
Thoughts?
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Last edited by chris vickery; 28-12-23 at 16:54. Reason: additional info
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  #288  
Old 28-12-23, 17:33
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Good points Chris.

Safety is always a top concern when it comes to putting a vehicle on the road. I do evaluate all my fasteners when Iím doing the rebuild. Anything questionable is replaced. In the case of these boss head (domed countersunk bolts) there is many of them and they have all been in great condition. When I rebuilt the CMP I found one of the steering knuckle bearing cap screws had a split down the length. It likely had been that way from almost new. Had it caused a problem? Probably not however it was replaced.

One interesting bit Iíve found on this vehicle is that Hamilton Bridge seems to have used the oversized or heavy nuts on pretty much everything.
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  #289  
Old 28-12-23, 18:11
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All four of the hood hinges were sandblasted last night. The hinge pins were all nicely worked back and forth while soaked in brake cleaner. Now all the hinges move back and forth effortlessly.
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  #290  
Old 28-12-23, 19:38
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Default Engine Hand Crank Hole Cover Plate

Hello Jordan.

This item has me wondering since it strikes me as a very odd item.

Is it an original factory designed item or a simple blanking plate item retrofitted later in the life of the Otter?

If the former, I could see it being 'hinged' on one end and slotted at the other to be secured with a wing nut to help keep dirt from plugging access for the crank. If the latter, it would suggest a hand crank became redundant at some point in the Otter production, but then why go to all that trouble?

Interesting what one can find on an 80 year old vehicle sometimes.


David
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  #291  
Old 29-12-23, 01:35
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Hi David

The blanking plate for the hand crank hole is a factory item. It shows up in a lot of period pictures. The C15TA also used the same plate. Iíve included a few pictures. Some are factory shots and others are from the field.

It is a cumbersome item to remove as one of those boss head bolts need to be totally removed and the other loosened. Then the plate can pivot. I suspect that is why there is also a number of pictures of these plates missing. The Otters in Sicily with 4th PLDG all seem to have the plates removed.

As for hand cranks being redundant, sure the technology had come a ways in terms of reliability, however, I canít think of any Canadian WW2 vehicles that didnít come with one?
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IMG_1033.jpeg   IMG_1034.jpeg   IMG_1035.jpeg   IMG_1036.jpeg   IMG_1037.jpeg  

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Last edited by Jordan Baker; 29-12-23 at 04:20.
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  #292  
Old 29-12-23, 04:37
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Bit more progress was made tonight. The armoured nose was finally removed after hours of work. The boss head bolts proved to be a chore but they all finally let go and came out. Not knowing if the nose would stay put once the last bolt came out, I secured it with a sling on the gantry crane. A few, thankfully old, paper wasp nest were found inside the nose. The nose will now be put aside for sandblasting in the spring. The inner shroud was fully intact and will clean up quite nicely.
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IMG_1051.jpeg   IMG_1052.jpeg   IMG_1053.jpeg   IMG_1061.jpeg   IMG_1054.jpeg  

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  #293  
Old 29-12-23, 04:43
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A few more pictures.

Once the shroud was removed the radiator is easily accessible. Iíve also included a few pictures of how the armoured body was attached to the frame and the engine crank bracket. Iím also quite pleased that most of the bonding straps are all still in place. Lastly the plate welded to the left side hull body plate. This was where the voltage regulator mounted. The remains of the shielded wiring ground are still attached.
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IMG_1056.jpeg   IMG_1057.jpeg   IMG_1058.jpeg   IMG_1059.jpeg   IMG_1060.jpeg  

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  #294  
Old 30-12-23, 02:23
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Intersting bare bone.....

..... the radiator support has a complete top section similar to civialian GM of that period...... in contrast the CMP has that same part with the top section cut off and referred to as the horse collar..... also your rad filler neck is similar to the cab 11 but cab11/12 had them on the pass. side yours is driver's side....

did your truck have a fan shroud???

Sure is built solid!!!!!!
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  #295  
Old 30-12-23, 05:49
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Yes there was a fan side shroud. Iíve included a drawing from one of the Service Information Bulletins. Thankfully these drawings provide a lot of detail.

Interestingly the radiator has what I believe to be a Dutch rebuild tag on the top of if. Iíll try and get a picture in the next day or so. It was only ever half visible due to the way the armoured nose fits on.
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IMG_1062.jpg   IMG_1063.jpeg  
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Last edited by Jordan Baker; 30-12-23 at 06:41.
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  #296  
Old 31-12-23, 23:47
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Thanks for the extra rad photos....

.... I was wrong, it looks more like regular cab 13 rad.... your dis-assembly process is fun to follow on the forum....... it is just so massive!!
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  #297  
Old 01-01-24, 21:17
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Radiator removed from the chassis. Itís quite the heavy duty mount that it sits in. Nice to see all the KG#3 paint when taking things apart. Interesting Dutch rebuild brass tag on the radiator top tank. Also some hand painted white numbers on the top of the tank. Appears to be 1953 and 254.
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IMG_1081.jpg   IMG_1082.jpg   IMG_1083.jpg   IMG_1084.jpg   IMG_1085.jpg  

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  #298  
Old 01-01-24, 21:20
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Lastly some updated pictures of the engine compartment now that the radiator is removed. It is nice to see spots of the GM chassis black and then over painted with KG#3.
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IMG_1086.jpg   IMG_1087.jpeg   IMG_1088.jpeg   IMG_1089.jpeg  
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  #299  
Old 01-01-24, 22:45
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Nice find! Bloksma Radiateurenfabriek (radiator factory) was a medium sized company founded by Mr Bloksma in 1920. In the 1970s they had 15 branches, which were later sold to the branch managers or amalgamated into Bloksma's Nederlandse Radiateuren Fabriek (Netherlands Radiator Factory, NRF) (https://www.nrf.eu/about-nrf/our-history/)

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  #300  
Old 02-01-24, 04:15
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Hanno

Any idea if this makers plate could be dated?
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