How To: CMP C15A Restoration series, Pictures and video

[Louis Skebo]

Hey everyone thanks for having me! I just bought this Chev C15a a couple of weeks ago and have started into it. Bob Carriere was nice enough to post some pics and video earlier for me and I really appreciate that. Not that my account is activated I'll be posting pictures and videos of my tear down and restoration .

A little about me, I restored my first Toyota Land cruiser at 16 (1976 FJ40), have restored many since then (I'm 47 now), I'm a pilot, full time firefighter, lumberjack, and have a very popular youtube channel rebuilding snowmobiles and odd things.....and I also have a very understanding wife.

After tearing into this CMP it is pretty amazing how similar it is to a Toyota Land Cruiser - and the best part is that the CMP is made from very good quality steel as compared to restorations from the 70's and up.

Military vehicles are new to me so I'm sure I'll have lots of questions, I try to do my homework as best I can before I ask though. My goal is to have this running and safetied by July 1st - Bob asked me "of which year", lol. If I can find what I need it'll be this year.

I'll also be hitting up the classified section often for bits and pieces so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Now on with the build!

Here are some pictures when I picked it up. It has not run since 1991 or so, It has a 235ci chev engine in it that I was told ran fine when it was parked...although the distributor has no cap or rotor on it and seems like someone was trying to get it going many years ago.

The tires were still holding air since at least 1991.

[Louis Skebo]

Since I shoot video so often my my channel I decided to shoot this whole restoration series. Here are the videos:

Dissassembly:

https://youtu.be/8gfKR0NQnAw
https://youtu.be/8wvvUOGnCR4
https://youtu.be/dmft22Xg3-E

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Hello Louis,

Welcome to MLU and congrats on buying a CMP truck! Before you know it, you will be hooked on this enigmatic mix of British design translated into American automotive engineering and manufacturing.

With your restoration and documentation skills, this thread will no doubt be a joy to follow in the time to come.

Regards,
Hanno

[Louis Skebo]

Thanks very much Hanno!

Making some progress with the tear down here are some pics and I should have a video up tonight.

A few questions.

The windshield frame is welded....thos doesn't look factory...or is it.

Where do I find new rubber seals for between the panels and around the windshield.

The bottom corners of the window glass frame were welded and rotten. What are my best options for a new window frame?

And looks like I can use some new door latch hardware.. .any leads?

Thanks!!

[Louis Skebo]

More pictures.

[Louis Skebo]

Ive just researched my tranny and it looks like a chevy SM420 4 speed - SM meaning synchromesh. Seems like a heavy duty tranny used in military machines and diesels, cheap and easy to rebuild and used up until 1990 or so.


https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledg.../manual/sm420/

[Greg]

Looking good.
Keep up the hard work.

Cheers
Greg

[Grant Bowker]

The transmission was not originally a SM420. The original was not synchronised. I believe the SM420 is longer than the original which would either require moving the transfer case rearward or making the short shaft between transmission and transfer case even shorter.
Your windshield post does look as if it has received some "added reinforcement".
The latch dovetail looks very similar to that sold by Mac's for Fords of similar vintage. The part numbers are close but not identical.

[Howard]

Good stuff, keep them pics coming!
H

[Louis Skebo]

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker

The transmission was not originally a SM420. The original was not synchronised. I believe the SM420 is longer than the original which would either require moving the transfer case rearward or making the short shaft between transmission and transfer case even shorter.
Your windshield post does look as if it has received some "added reinforcement".
The latch dovetail looks very similar to that sold by Mac's for Fords of similar vintage. The part numbers are close but not identical.

Yes I can see that the tranny isn't offset like the original according to the hump in the crossmember. I know better what they did once I get the box off....seems like a pretty simple transplant though.
Cheers.

Louie

[Louis Skebo]

Here is video #4 - cab removed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCXm...ature=youtu.be

Cheers.

Louie

[Kolten Hooper]

Thank-you for keeping us updated throughout your restoration process! I have been really enjoying your videos... keep up the great work!

[Grant Hopkins]

Here's what your windshield post would look like. The 2 slotted screws hold the pipe in the casting. The hex is the remains of a curtain stud for the door windows.

[Louis Skebo]

Ah ok that makes sense...tbe part number on the casting and screws had me tbinking. Thanks.

[Louis Skebo]

Hi Fellas, I have some worn U joints, is this a simple replacement item from Malmburgs or do I have to hunt for something special?

Thanks

Louie

[Grant Bowker]

Off the shelf at Malmberg - I think they are Spicer 5-178X but it's probably wise to take your old ones in for comparison rather than taking my word on it.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Louis

Tip from an old motor pool sargent who looked at one of my trucks when I was restoring it. He pointed to the drive shaft and said I had not aligned all of the grease fittings to point to the same side of the shaft. The two ends and the slide fittings. Reason, if you align all the fittings then it makes greasing the vehicle easier.

I did not take all 4 drive shafts off the C60L and correct the problem, but the next drive shaft I did I was careful get them all on the same side of the shaft and he was correct it does make it easier to grease if you don't have to keep rotating the shaft to get the next fitting.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Louis

I have two of the windshield posts...... they will have to be removed from a cab 12.

When are you bringing the yellow one home? it might have the bottom flywheel cover you need.

Ask for rubber tail lights I believe he still has some NOS ones you will need a minimum of 3 for the rear or 5 if you do the front fenders marking lights.

Ask for seat frames as well..... he used to have some.

Cheers

[Louis Skebo]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Louis

Tip from an old motor pool sargent who looked at one of my trucks when I was restoring it. He pointed to the drive shaft and said I had not aligned all of the grease fittings to point to the same side of the shaft. The two ends and the slide fittings. Reason, if you align all the fittings then it makes greasing the vehicle easier.

I did not take all 4 drive shafts off the C60L and correct the problem, but the next drive shaft I did I was careful get them all on the same side of the shaft and he was correct it does make it easier to grease if you don't have to keep rotating the shaft to get the next fitting.

Cheers Phil

Great notes for sure phil, I learned that with my skidder....it has many many grease fittings at just the end of my reach inside the dirtiest most greasy machine Ive ever seen....I bought a milwaukee 18v grease gun with a 46 inch long hose - changed my life

[Louis Skebo]

Video #5 Down to the rolling chassis

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=II71lx4oJvI

Video #6 removing the harmonic balancer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9bCq2qbikA

More coming!

[Louis Skebo]

I painted the engine with epoxy primer - no idea how it will last but i suspect pretty well. Going to leave it that colour as well as I like a bright engine compartment so I can see what I'm doing...and it looks kinda military like dontcha think?

Turns out the rear left wheel had reverse threads and the front right wheel had reverse lug threads - whats with that!

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Louie

Sounds like someone installed the front brake drums on the wrong side....left hand threads should both be on the left side.

Have you run the engine yet???

Since you have the engine in primer, on you might want to give it another coat of Ford gray/blue which is very close to the original color from the factory..... spray cans available from CTC.

Cheers

[Louis Skebo]

I might leave it that colour not sure yet - but ill check into that colour from CTC - i went to two different CTC's a couple of weeks ago and their colours were lacking - not like years ago.

[Alex van de Wetering]

Louie,

Ik seemed you were having lots of fun with that 2pack spraycan

You suggested in your video that your chassis might have been cut....I think it might only be missing 4 inches or so...the three holes in the sides of the chassis rails are used to secure the cast brackets that hold the rear tow hitch...the castings and hitch actually hang from under the chassis.

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

Sadly the project was very time consuming and costly and stopped as far as I know. The truck was pieced out a few years ago some small stuff coming to the barn.

Bob C.