MLU FORUM  

Go Back   MLU FORUM > MILITARY VEHICLES > The Restoration Forum

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #211  
Old 11-12-16, 04:52
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
Posts: 5,191
Default Tell us about the metal brake.....

....... any pictures of the braking beauty????

Watching with great interest, has I have to do one for the my cab 11. Still debating whether to patch up the best 2B1 box I have or build a one new from scratch using what models I have as a pattern.

Did you ever noticed the difference ( and lessons learned from ripped pant seat bottoms).....

Viewed from the rear when closed the cab 11 tailgate is all smooth with all the bracing on the inside...... so when held open with chain you had a rough surface to sit on....

On the cab 13, all the bracing is facing outside ( so you have to do a good welding/fabricating job) and when the tailgate is open the inside is smooth........

Grant has found his jig for making his hinges from strap steel and should be posting soon.

Cheers
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B
C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
Canada
Reply With Quote
  #212  
Old 11-12-16, 05:23
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

I made some great progress today. First I had to beef up the metal brake. Ill post more on that in another thread.

I finished cutting the tail gate panel by putting in the tail light holes and the foot step holes. For the tail light holes I used a 1-3\4" hole saw. It tends to wobble a bit while drilling with a hand drill. I then used a hand file to finish the edges out to the proper diameter. For the straight lines I used my trusty angle grinder with a zip disk and some steady hands. The foot holes were also cut out with the zip disk and then I finished them with a combination of a flap disk and a hand file. They took a bit of time but I really couldn't think of any other way to cut them out with the tools I have.

I had Metal Supermarket cut out all the sheet metal more on their shear. This saved me considerable time and ensured I had perfectly straight cuts and square corners. I bent all of the channels myself on the princess auto brake. The long channel had to be made in three pieces as the brake can only do 36" Even with the modifications, it was still stressing it quite a bit doing 16ga over 36" In the end it worked out well enough and I was able to tighten up the bends in the vise.

Before I do any welding, ill be cutting in the channels on the original tailgate to check for any reinforcing. I believe the hinges run the entire height of the tailgate.

When I first decided to rebuild the sides and the tailgate of the box, I didn't realize I would be doing the most difficult one first. However with how well it is going the sides should be pretty straight forward. (knock on wood)
Attached Thumbnails
tailgate01.jpg   tailgate02.jpg   tailgate003.jpg   tailgate04.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #213  
Old 11-12-16, 05:38
Wayne Hingley's Avatar
Wayne Hingley Wayne Hingley is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Water Valley, Alberta
Posts: 733
Default

Looks great Jordan! You did good bending that metal on the PA brake. I tried using one my friend has, to bend some 16ga sheet metal, and anything longer than ~20" kept slipping on me. I was kind of nervous that I would brake it if I tightened it down any more.

Cant wait to see the finished product.
__________________
1953 M37 CDN
1953 M38A1 CDN
1967 M38A1 CDN2
Reply With Quote
  #214  
Old 11-12-16, 05:43
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Thanks for the compliments. Ive created another thread in the restoration forum on the modifications I did to the Princess Auto brake. They really do make a huge difference in what you can do.
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #215  
Old 11-12-16, 05:51
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
Bluebell
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
Posts: 5,534
Default

Here's a hint Jordan;
My mandrel doesn't have a drill bit in it. I have a bit of plain round tool steel in it.
I drill a clearance center hole with an ordinary drill bit. I then put a bit of oil on the plain pilot, poke it in the pre drilled hole and cut away with the hole saw. It dont wobble at all.
The reason why I did this was that I had trouble buying the correct pilot drill and most of them leave the clearing flutes of the drill bit at the same height as the teeth of the hole saw, which allows the hole saw to move sideways.
__________________
Bluebell

Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
Reply With Quote
  #216  
Old 11-12-16, 05:56
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Lynn, thanks for the tip. I modified mine the same way. However sometimes the hole saw binds up. Last time when it did I bent the plain pilot. Hence the wobble. Plus I'd rather drill undersize and then file to finish size.
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #217  
Old 05-04-17, 03:35
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Well today I spent a few hours back working on the truck, specifically the tailgate hinges. The big hold up had been mostly winter and my lack of enthusiasm for being damp and cold. Anyway back to the truck. Last fall I made up a bending jig to roll the end of the metal into a hing. One of my uncles was able to help me out today by using the torch to heat up the flat stock. All in all it worked out really well. I made up the two long and two medium length ones for the tailgate. Only one of small ones on the box frame needed replacing.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #218  
Old 05-04-17, 03:38
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

With bending them hot we found the edges tended to curl out a bit. So I used my bend belt sander to slowly sand them down. Next up will be reeming them out so that the hinge pin slides freely.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #219  
Old 06-04-17, 23:40
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

I tack welded on the hinge straps and did a trial fitting on the box. All is good and it fit really well. It truly is amazing all of the work that went into making these for the army back in the day.
Attached Thumbnails
01.jpg   02.jpg   03.jpg   04.jpg   05.jpg  

__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #220  
Old 07-04-17, 03:33
Robert Bergeron's Avatar
Robert Bergeron Robert Bergeron is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: East Central Canada
Posts: 1,483
Default

Amazing workmanship Jordan . You are very dedicated and talented. Thanks for posting your progress. It is inspiring and motivating. Robert
__________________
44 GPW / 44 C-15-A Cab 13 Wireless 5 with 2K1 box X 2 /
44 U.C. No-2 MKII* /
10 Cwt Cdn Brantford Coach & Body trailer X 2 /
94 LSVW
Reply With Quote
  #221  
Old 11-04-17, 09:57
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

I finished doing my basic welding on the tailgate yesterday. I decided to use the original tie down loops as they weren't in too bad of shape and would clean up just fine once sandblasted. Once I finished, all the parts were loaded up and taken for a drive to the sandblasting guy I use for the bigger stuff. Tomorrow when I pick up all the parts Ill be giving them a good coating of POR15. The plan is that once the POR is dry, Ill finish all the needed welding.
Attached Thumbnails
tailgate01.jpg   tailgate02.jpg   tailgate03.jpg   tailgate04.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #222  
Old 11-04-17, 10:09
Private_collector's Avatar
Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default

Damn fine work, soldier!
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
Reply With Quote
  #223  
Old 11-04-17, 21:36
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
Posts: 5,191
Default Nice job Jordan

Been following your tailgate progress with passion as I am about to do one for the cab 11.

Do not forget that any welding will burn off the POR coating on both sides if you get good penetration...... try to get all your welding done first........ for the reinforcement pocket use the zinc primer on the inside section ....weld them .....then POR......

As anyone ever notice that the cab 11 tail gate is the reverse of a cab 13????
On the cab 11 all the bracing and reinforcement are on the inside..... which is a pain in the butt if the tailgate is held open at 90 degrees and you sit or drag something over it...... but the cab 13 has all the reinforcement on the outside leaving a smooth inside.


Unfortunately the hinge straps on the cab 11 are riveted....which implies a little more work .

Cheers
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B
C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
Canada

Last edited by Bob Carriere; 11-04-17 at 21:57.
Reply With Quote
  #224  
Old 15-04-17, 14:13
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Welding is almost done on the tailgate. Lots and lots of welding. I did discover I suffered some heat distortion even with me clamping. This happened along the top edge where the cutout is. Both sides bent in towards the box slightly. Hopefully the 10lbs sledge hammer will help them back to where they should be. Overall I am pretty happy with how this has turned out.

The next thing will be making new sides for the box. These should be a lot easier in comparison then the tailgate. Fingers crossed.
Attached Thumbnails
tailgate05.jpg   tailgate06.jpg   tailgate07.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #225  
Old 23-04-17, 01:36
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

A big thanks to a fellow MLU'er for helping my project move along. I'm very thankful to have picked up a near complete WS19 ground station.

Yes I know it's not part of the truck restoration but it's part of the onboard equipment.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #226  
Old 01-05-17, 03:47
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

I started in on making the new sides for the box this past week. I stopped in a local fabrication shop and they will be making the long top channels on the sides for me. The originals are 14ga and 80" long. Id love to do them myself but that is simply just to heavy a gage and too long a piece for me to do at home on my own.

However what I have begun is making the smaller vertical channels. I got the 16ga cut to near finished size and then bent them up in about 1.5hrs worth of work. I still have to cut the sides down to the proper depth and angle. I also made up new parts for going on either end of the wheel wells on the outside lower edge of the box.

The one thing I am not too sure how to do is where the bottom of the top bows meet these channels. The channel appears to either have been cut and bent to be parallel with the box sides. Or was it stamped?
Attached Thumbnails
08.jpg   09.jpg   15cwt Wireless 2-c-3 1b.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #227  
Old 05-05-17, 10:46
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Figured I should get the tail gate all POR15'd and primed before all the rain showed up. Wednesday was a great day to paint so that is what I did. Im really happy with how the tailgate has turned out.
Attached Thumbnails
tailgate08.jpg   tailgate09.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #228  
Old 08-05-17, 22:44
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
Posts: 5,191
Default Side pockets indentations......

Hi Jordan

I was examining my 2C1 box and if I had to do the side pockets I would do this.

measure carefully the size of the indentations and the depth..... about 3/32 or the tickness of the metal if you were using 14 guage.

Center the outline of the indentation on your new 16 gauge vertical brace.

Cut as outlined in the attached sketch.....MAKE SURE TO LEAVE A GOOD PIVOT POINT...... at least 1/8 uncut.

Think of a damper in a chimney..... you should know about dampers......
Pull the upper 48% out by 3/32 and pushing the bottom 48% out an equal amounts.

Weld from the back first to fill the gaps......then the front and sand smooth the front visible side....... make sure yor behind welds are solid as they will carry the torque of the hoops.

Now I must point out that I have not tried this but it is how I would tackle it.

Good luck and post us some pictures. No doubt the original was stamped before assembly.
Attached Thumbnails
Jordanbox001.jpg  
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B
C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
Canada
Reply With Quote
  #229  
Old 08-05-17, 23:24
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Ha why should I know all about dampers, although not much dampens my enthusiasm?

I like your idea and it makes sense to me. I might try it out on a scrap piece first. I'll have to wait till Thursday or the weekend to play around with it. Darn work getting in the way of the hobbies it supports.

On another note I broke my metal brake today. The top clamp is held in by some rather dodgy weak welds (princess Autos finest) and well I felt like superman when I realized I pulled them out. Thankfully it's a simple fix using stuff I don't have at the moment.
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #230  
Old 08-05-17, 23:28
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
Posts: 5,191
Default How many chimney fires have responded to...?

....just pulling your leg .,......but it is the first thing to turn off when you get there.

Brakes do break...... if you exceed the limits of the poor welds.... nothing you can't repair.

Cheers
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B
C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
Canada
Reply With Quote
  #231  
Old 08-05-17, 23:39
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Usually by that point things have progressed well past the chimney. Lol.

Too be fair I had noticed the threaded studs bending from where they were welded. I'll be replacing with grade 8 set screws with some good welding to the heads. I've checked the other side and its bent and pulling out as well.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #232  
Old 09-05-17, 00:46
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
Posts: 5,191
Default Can you.......

Replace the stud with a larger size.....or even better eliminate the free play so the stud can not bend but would have to shear......

Or you could stop bending long pieces of 14 gauge metal......

On the chimney fires....do you guys still use the special flares that they lite and threw in the stove.......???? it consumed the oxygen and generated an inert gas that choked off the fire without spraying water all over on hot steel...........

Cheers
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B
C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
Canada
Reply With Quote
  #233  
Old 09-05-17, 04:03
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Talked to my local machinist tonight at a meeting. He's getting me some strong shoulder bolts to use. I'm also going to add another piece of channel to hold the other end of the stud. That should hold everything and then I'll find the next week point.

Never seen that kind of a flare. We have a grenade type thing but never seen it used. It's a pricey piece of one time use only kit.
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #234  
Old 11-05-17, 20:24
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

And last night I had part of the sheet metal brake snap off and go flying across the shop with a bang. Oh well it's something else to fix and make stronger.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #235  
Old 11-05-17, 20:26
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Nice little accessory that I managed to find recently. Now onto finding the tin.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #236  
Old 11-05-17, 20:51
Brian Gough Brian Gough is offline
HUP guy
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oshawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 428
Default nice !!!

Jordan,

That is a great find. They are a very rare CMP item. Have you thought about reproducing them?

Brian
__________________
1942 Willys MB Jeep 505 contract
1943 C8A HUP
Reply With Quote
  #237  
Old 12-05-17, 02:41
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

I was pretty happy about finding it.
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #238  
Old 13-05-17, 17:56
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,000
Default

Ok things are now back on track. Not wanting to loose anytime after work to sleep I've got the sheet metal brake back together and things are all fixed up. I replaced the stud with some high strength set screws. I then used some spare box channel and c channel I had to make holder. This will now support the other end of the stud and should keep it from bending up. I'll keep going with this until the next part lets go and then that will be beefed up.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
Reply With Quote
  #239  
Old 14-05-17, 02:04
Ganmain Tony's Avatar
Ganmain Tony Ganmain Tony is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ganmain NSW Australia
Posts: 1,242
Default Dumb Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
Nice little accessory that I managed to find recently. Now onto finding the tin.
Well done Jordan.. nice find!

What was its purpose and what tin are you referring to?
__________________
Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements.
Reply With Quote
  #240  
Old 14-05-17, 03:29
Brian Gough Brian Gough is offline
HUP guy
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oshawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 428
Default First Aid Kit

Tony,

see the pictures here in this thread from Rob Fast:

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=21476

Brian
__________________
1942 Willys MB Jeep 505 contract
1943 C8A HUP
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1944 C-15A-Wire-5 Restoration RichCam The Restoration Forum 706 18-05-23 02:43
Sold: 1944 Chev C15A Wire-3 Don Dingwall For Sale Or Wanted 11 02-04-15 23:26
What was once 2, is now 1. (C15A-Wire-5) RichCam The Softskin Forum 3 30-12-11 22:49
photos needed for c15a wire 3 van body jason meade The Softskin Forum 5 10-08-11 06:29
Wire loom for C15A Cab13 Jordan Baker The Restoration Forum 19 28-08-06 03:42


All times are GMT +2. The time now is 13:10.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © Maple Leaf Up, 2003-2016