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  #31  
Old 22-04-17, 23:48
pauldavies pauldavies is offline
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Thanks for the info Guy and yes I will have a closer look but the belt is nice and tight with no slippage.
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  #32  
Old 23-04-17, 06:10
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Had a look at the adjuster assembly and I have 15mm give in the belt which is about right, to have any less would put pressure on the bearings.
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  #33  
Old 23-04-17, 07:11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldavies View Post
Had a look at the adjuster assembly and I have 15mm give in the belt which is about right, to have any less would put pressure on the bearings.
Hi Paul
In my experience I would say the belt is too narrow and not driving on the flanks but on its inner face and it will be prone to slipping. The outside of the belt should be nearly flush with edge of pulley. Take a photo of crank pulley so we can see how belt sits. I think this is what is causing your problem, belt slip.
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  #34  
Old 23-04-17, 11:40
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I discovered that modern V belts don't always match well with the older type pullies. There is a standard for V belts that's been around many years , the "B" type is commonly seen in older machinery.

My series 1 Land Rover is always a problem, finding the correct belt . I have fitted a modern belt that functions but somehow the modern belts don't quite fit correctly, the new belt makes a squeeling sound , as if something is rubbing . I believe the series 1 club in the UK had a special batch of belts made .

Yes I agree with the comments, that C8 belt isn't sitting as it should be , the profile is too narrow or the "v" angle isn't correct.
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  #35  
Old 23-04-17, 11:57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Kelly View Post
I discovered that modern V belts don't always match well with the older type pullies. There is a standard for V belts that's been around many years , the "B" type is commonly seen in older machinery.

My series 1 Land Rover is always a problem, finding the correct belt . I have fitted a modern belt that functions but somehow the modern belts don't quite fit correctly, the new belt makes a squeeling sound , as if something is rubbing . I believe the series 1 club in the UK had a special batch of belts made .

Yes I agree with the comments, that C8 belt isn't sitting as it should be , the profile is too narrow or the "v" angle isn't correct.
Hi Mike,
You are correct on the belt V-angles. The standard A,B,C etc used on machinery and general engineering is still around and a lot of vehicle and engine makers used them, but, there was another British Standard for Automotive belts with a slightly different angle, no longer available now, I find that Austin, Morris and Rootes group engines were on this standard, and probably many others. The replacement belts are a compromise, and usually touch on outer edge, but will bed in without issues.
Looking at Paul's photo, as he was unaware that the pump pulley was adjustable, then I assume it is still set for an old belt, and it is the crank pulley that will define that. It would be impossible to fit the correct width belt without opening up the top pulley first, so my reckoning is the pump and fan was not turning fast enough as the belt was driving on the inner circumference and losing grip at times. The new belt needs to fit the crank pulley and likely will stand proud by about a millimetre or so, not sure if it would be a B or a C section.
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  #36  
Old 24-04-17, 07:38
pauldavies pauldavies is offline
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Lots of info to take in and hopefully the picture has uploaded, what kind of fan-belt do you suggest Richard? Difficult to find old belts these days, I will take it off tomorrow after the Anzac service and will go ahead with replacing the individual bits as they are worn. Spring I should have an answer on Wednesday for replacement.
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  #37  
Old 24-04-17, 08:29
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Paul, have you checked for a head gasket leak or cracks as a possibility for blowing the water out?
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  #38  
Old 24-04-17, 08:32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldavies View Post
Lots of info to take in and hopefully the picture has uploaded, what kind of fan-belt do you suggest Richard? Difficult to find old belts these days, I will take it off tomorrow after the Anzac service and will go ahead with replacing the individual bits as they are worn. Spring I should have an answer on Wednesday for replacement.
Hi Paul.
You need to determine the width of the top of the Vee on the crankshaft pulley. If approx. 16mm, then try a B section belt, but if 22mm then use a C section belt. The supplier should be familiar with B and C section belts as it is an International designation. As for length, you will need to open up your pump pulley and when belt is fitted the sheaves are adjusted up and engine turned over a few times, then recheck adjustment. When the belt reached the top of the vee on pump pulley it is near end of adjustment.

From what I have read here you fitted the belt without opening the adjustable pulley, is that is correct?

A Morris C8 owner might know the replacement belt number.

This might be of interest:
http://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/m...urope-2004.pdf
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  #39  
Old 24-04-17, 10:45
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Richard and Lynn thanks for the info and I replaced the head gasket as there was a problem with "water" ingestion due to no4 spark plug being very loose when I first got the truck, on stripping the head off I found two gaskets fitted but I have replaced them with a copper gasket and there is no water in the oil or blowing out the exhaust so all seems good. When I replaced the water pump and belt I didn't realise where the adjustment was so even though it was a tight fit I got the belt on, I will replace the belt with your spec's Richard and have an auto spares place I use that employs people over 21. The coolant blows out on reaching running temp so I believe the problem to be a combination of all the things you guy's have mentioned so as I have said spring, filler funnel and threaded lock ring will be replaced with new and I will search out a replacement belt.
Regards and will keep you all posted
Paul
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  #40  
Old 25-04-17, 07:22
pauldavies pauldavies is offline
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Thanks Richard and it looks like a C section belt I need, by the looks of the belt removed it has been rubbing on the sides as you say and the length can be longer to take up the adjustment, will source another tomorrow.
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  #41  
Old 25-04-17, 08:41
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My daughter says when you go into a parts store, ALWAYS ASK FOR THE OLD GUY!!
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  #42  
Old 25-04-17, 10:48
pauldavies pauldavies is offline
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She is correct in that Dave and we have an Auto pro store that only employs people over 25 so you have half a chance, the one thing I hate is when they say "whats it off" so you haven't connected, I will probably get roasted alive and hung drawn and quartered for saying when we go to the check-out at the supermarket I always choose the ugly check out chick but they are better than the eye candy ones. Shouldn't have said it but there it is.
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  #43  
Old 02-05-17, 11:38
pauldavies pauldavies is offline
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New C type fan belt fitted and have to wait a few weeks for the new spring. Hope its the right one.
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  #44  
Old 03-05-17, 09:35
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There is a modern equivalent which i used on my C8.
I shall look it up when i am at home again.

Rgds.

Sjoerd
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  #45  
Old 03-05-17, 11:42
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Thanks Svdwal this one I got from the local auto shop, they had the one fitted which was a V and as I said to them I needed a C type, always good to get one that works and I have a few weeks prior to getting the new spring so no rush and thanks. Adjustment seems good for the 13/4 between belts but I am not sure on getting the pump pulley too far up the pulley as it would be to tight.
Paul
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  #46  
Old 03-05-17, 23:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldavies View Post
Adjustment seems good for the 13/4 between belts but I am not sure on getting the pump pulley too far up the pulley as it would be to tight.
Paul
Hi Paul,
I thought it would be a C section belt. You don't want the belt too far up the pump sheaves, this will allow for adjustment later on when belt beds, in an stretches a bit. Hope this might help the problem, as I have come across similar circumstances.

regards, Richard
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  #47  
Old 05-05-17, 10:53
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Thanks Richard as this thing has been developing I am seeing were the V or C makes the difference, it will take a while to bed in with adjustment along the way. The spring is the biggest worry as I spoke with the company rep a couple of days ago and wasn't impressed with him but I may be wrong time will tell I suppose but they were recommended.
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  #48  
Old 05-05-17, 12:00
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Hello, there is a person go has remade these radiator springs , you can find them on E-bay.

Guy.
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  #49  
Old 05-05-17, 19:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldavies View Post
Thanks Richard as this thing has been developing I am seeing were the V or C makes the difference, it will take a while to bed in with adjustment along the way. The spring is the biggest worry as I spoke with the company rep a couple of days ago and wasn't impressed with him but I may be wrong time will tell I suppose but they were recommended.
hi Paul,
To be perfectly honest, that Air-Lock system has no bearing on water blowing out. It only comes into operation when the cap is removed. This locks off air/expansion space in the header tank, so that you cannot put too much water in the radiator, thus weakening the anti-freeze, and also if overfilled it would blow out. So, providing you have enough water to cover the top hose fitment, then I would say you should be good to go and see how it behaves. You will find with a lot of these non-pressurised systems that if you put too much water in, there will be an initial blow out of water, then it will settle down, it is knowing to what point you fill to.

regards, Richard
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  #50  
Old 05-05-17, 23:50
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Thanks for the info Guy and Richard, the spring is in Brisbane so I will need to wait for that. Hopefully I will get some movement on it next week, Guy is the spring on ebay under a particular category? I had a surf around but couldn't find anything.
Richard interesting you say "enough water to cover the hose fitting" as I have only filled till just covering the core which is below the hose fitting?
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  #51  
Old 06-05-17, 00:21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldavies View Post
Richard interesting you say "enough water to cover the hose fitting" as I have only filled till just covering the core which is below the hose fitting?
Paul,
If your water level in the rad is below the inlet for the top hose, there will not be circulation. The level needs to be up to the top hose on the rad to get cycling of the coolant.

regards, Richard
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  #52  
Old 06-05-17, 19:21
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  #53  
Old 06-05-17, 20:24
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or to make it easier;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEDFORD-MW...0AAOSw~gRV102K
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  #54  
Old 07-05-17, 07:10
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Thanks for the info and purchase of a spring made just in case the Brisbane mob don't come good, the subject of the coolant level we have talked about and I have experimented with for a while but will make sure the header tank has sufficient in when I get all the bits back in and start up.
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  #55  
Old 16-05-17, 11:13
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Just an update on whats going on with my Morris C8, I await a spring from either the UK or Brisbane. I am having two manufactured in Brisbane and also bought a spring on ebay, while this is going on I have re-tightened the cylinder head as the manual has no torque setting so its down to elbow click and your elbow clicks different on days with a Y in them. This may account for any pressure in the cooling system as I have had half a turn to a full turn in the head nuts, I have also purchased a head gasket sealant that I will introduce when all the radiator components are in. I hope all this works.
Paul
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  #56  
Old 27-05-17, 08:04
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An update on where this radiator problem is at, firstly I had a few weeks off for medical stuff but I was back on the problem yesterday having had the NOS spring from the UK. It was just as bad so I thought I had better go back to square one firstly removing the radiator and check the water pump, pump was fine but the radiator seems to be blocked. I filled it with water off the truck and nothing came out the bottom hose, tried flushing up and again nothing came to the top. It would seem I have been heating the coolant in the top of the engine and having no flow through the radiator it's been blowing out the top. A bit like the thermostat not opening but I don't have one, I will try some flushing compound tomorrow. This C8 was sitting in a museum for a number of years prior to me purchasing it so probably only water in but time will tell.
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  #57  
Old 10-06-17, 07:56
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Update, the radiator was indeed blocked so having got that back yesterday fitted it and while only idling for half an hour it only spat out a few drops and at switch off pushed out a little bit more, maybe I over filled but I know the champ does the same when only idling then switching off. Going overseas for a about 6 weeks so will give it a run when I get back. I only put water in plus a bit of Wet-Wetter so no great shakes for the paint-work.
I also installed a new stainless spring and the new filler funnel I made so all was new.
Paul
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