Info needed: Trans case yoke seal

[Les Kovacs]

I've done lots of work on my 67' M38A1 with the help of MLU, the M38A1
TM manual(s) and you tube. Its now time to tackle the transfer case yoke oil seal at the front drive shaft.
Is the seal replacement for semi-novices? Are special tools required? How do you stop the yoke from turning while trying to loosen the yoke nut and is there a torque value when tightening up the nut after seal replacement. Is it hard to dig out the seal? Do I have to mark the yoke with the T case and driveshaft for alignment before I start to disassemble parts? Any hints would be very helpful before I dig into the manual and you tube as I am sure someone has already tackled the job.

Regards,

lesk

[rob love]

There is a flange tool to hold the flange while you remove the nut on the yoke, but most guys just use an impact gun. Even one of the 18v or 20v dewalt cordless guns might do the trick. If you only have hand tools, then the right size socket on a powerbar should do the trick once you raise the jeep high enough to get some room for movement. Lock up the parkbrake and have the Jeep in first gear and 4 wheel drive to help hold the shaft from turning.



You do not have to mark the shaft/yoke for relationship. They are not timed.



Buy a seal puller from Princess auto. They are a copy of the snap on and OTC pullers.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...er/A-p2990539e


Pack a little grease on the inside of the new seal so you don't knock off the spring when you are hammering the new one in. Also, run a smear of RTV silicone on the outside edge of the seal before you drive it in.



While you shouldn't hammer directly onto the seal, you likely will have to hit the edges to get it to start. A suitable size pipe or socket which pushes close to the outer edges of the seal can be hit with a hammer to drive the seal in to where it belongs. If you deform the outer face of the seal, then it will most likely leak.



Some spicer yokes have a little rubber washer in the shape of the splines which compresses between the yoke nut and the shaft. Smear RTV in the washer under the yoke nut so the washer seals up the center of the yoke, otherwise oil will travel down the splines and leak out the center of the yoke.



There likely is a torque spec for the nut but since this location does not have a compressible sleeve for the bearings the way a differential might, just tighten it to goodandtight. If you really want the torque spec, google is your friend.

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob....thanks for the quick reply....sounds easy...I do have an air wrench and socket so that will make taking off the nut easier....however, I forgot to ask in my first post.....after loosening and getting the yoke nut off how do you get the yoke off...do you require a puller?

Thanks....lesk

[rob love]

It depends. Sometimes they slide right off, sometimes they need a little persuasion. If it is tight, you can use a puller. Pullers are cheap enough these days, and it is certainly an easy puller to make.

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks Rob....very cold garage so work will take place this spring....just collecting data and parts.

Regards,

lesk