Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

No worries chaps! I understand exactly what you are saying. This truck could never be perfect, even if true craftsmen were paid to do each job. I am considerably less than a 'craftsman', trust me. Besides, the object is to present a finished product that will have a long life and be maintenence free as is possible. So for me the mantra is "do it well once, never have to do it again". Hows that for naive thinking?

I got the primer / spray filler on the cab rear, this afternoon. While I have endevoured to eliminate 'post built' damage, this will not be achieved, and the best I can hope for is to remove heavy damage and minimise those tricky little bits that don't show themselves until you get a nice even top-coat of paint.

As I was beating and filling the dents & high spots, I have been very mindful NOT to cover any of the spot welds. These have been left alone. You can see them in the above photo. I agree with both you gentlemen, in that these things show the true construction method and should not be 'improved' upon. In all honesty, I actually like the wavy finish of the original build. I don't like leaving deterioration or damage that has obviously occured in the decades after the war.

I did go ahead with coating the rear panel inside with a good quality low-build stone guard. It is discrete, and once painted it should not look out of place. It does cover the small lows & highs that I couldn't get completely flat.

As I said yeserday, the anti-squeak was made while waiting for the primer to dry. When I wanted to cut the rubber where bolt holes go, I was scratching my head as to what could be used to mark the black rubber well enough to locate the right spot for punching holes. Simple answer = liquid paper pen!!

When I was working on the cab floor frame, I was surprised to see some of the welding was worse than mine. Immensely strong no doubt, because there is soooooo much of the weld, and such heavy reinforcing to the frame base. One thing I wondered about is a little round stamp of many seperate divits. These are found in many places around the cab frame. Are these from some part of the building jig? Is it something to assist with bending to shape?

Either way, don't worry, they are still there. I didn't cover them with filler

Your comments are always welcomed chaps, and your advice is greatly valued!

[Private_collector]

I need one of these in my front yard.

Then let them come selling door-to-door

It's a replica & advertised on Milweb. I think it was 30,000 pounds (price, not weight)

[Private_collector]

Gentlemen,

I have been contacted by an acquaintence with the following question:

"Hi Im wanting to know if number LV7 FD MAY BE CHEV BLITZ AS I HAVE NEW PARTS FOR THIS PART NUMBER, SWITCHES, HEAD LIGHT LOOM"

Can you help me answer this inquiry?

I don't have Chevs, as you know, so if these parts are available, I can see if they are alright for someone else.

Thanks in advance,

T.

[Private_collector]

I am considering buying these two tail lights.
Any idea how much I should be expecting to pay for them?

[Keith Webb]

The FD bit usually means Ford.

Post a pic and we'll identify them. Often the looms have a metal tag with a proper part number stamped onto it.

As for the tail lights, a lovely piece of CMP gold there - worth whatever someone is prepared to pay - I could easily see them go for up to $200 for the pair.

Originally Posted by Private_collector

"Hi Im wanting to know if number LV7 FD MAY BE CHEV BLITZ AS I HAVE NEW PARTS FOR THIS PART NUMBER, SWITCHES, HEAD LIGHT LOOM".

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

The FD bit usually means Ford.
Post a pic and we'll identify them. Often the looms have a metal tag with a proper part number stamped onto it.

These are the photos I have just been sent.
Part Number on wiring is not easy for me to see.
Are these switches original and/or valuable??

T

[Keith Webb]

The circled ones are definitely Ford so you should keep them! Hard to tell with the wrapped loom though.

[Private_collector]

Thanks for the switch info Keith,

Also for your PM about the h/brake boot. I will still go in for a shift boot though.

Re. the switches I have asked about, they are not mine. The enquiry is for someone else who was wondering what they were. I have an interest in the headlight wiring and may buy it if suitable.

Some time ago, I was negotiating to buy a cache of original Blitz dash switches. The ball topped toggles, and including several fuel switches. That did not come off as the potential seller wants to 'think about it' for a while. I take it thats code for 'see how much I can wring out of someone & keep you as a backup plan'. Still, good luck. My plan 'B' for switches was for ones with correct positions, without the ball top. These are now installed in the dash and don't look half bad! It was one of the very few jobs I could do today that didn't require power or dry weather. With all switches other than fuel selector, I have used the [Mom.On-OFF-ON] type. These were the best I could get that have an OFF position that it directly vertical. Obviously the fuel switch is ON-OFF-ON.

Cab rear panel was block sanded this morning. Only one small area required a further skim of blade putty. If fine weather tomorrow i'll try to get the thing painted. The rifle attaching brackets were straightened and the spring steel 'jaws' where rifle clips in needed to have a minor change to alignment, for rifle to sit properly. I have some deac. SMLE & 'Jungle Carbine' rifles here and I am about to get one out to make a pattern for the wooden blocks that bolt onto floor of cab.

Does anyone have any photos of these that I can have a look at, please?

I want to make these in one piece, using a router for removing the wood where rifle goes and band saw to form outer edge. May start on this tomorrow if weather is bad. Otherwise, the windscreen frame beckons.



Still no 1/4in slot head CSK bolts! They are on back order, apparently.

[Howard]

Tony,
Looks like I have tomorrow off (and maybe the next day, and the day after)...
BEFORE

AFTER

Five foot of mud has slowed things for me a bit...
So I will get down to the shed & take some piccies & some measurements of the butt locators.
Give me a call on my mobile (Sent to you by PM) & I will send them to you.
If you don't have 'em by lunchtime give me a ring!
H

[hrpearce]

Howard just swap to swamp tracks and keep going don't let a little mud stop you

[Howard]

Originally Posted by hrpearce

Howard just swap to swamp tracks and keep going don't let a little mud stop you

Too late, Robert. It DID stop me!

[Private_collector]

Thanks Howard.

Speak to you in the A.M.

T.

[T Creighton]

Hi Tony,
My original ones were two piece which was just as well as the bottom bit was long gone.
I would suggest the base would be best out of treated ply.
Inside is 4 3/4"x1 3/4"
Wall Thickness is about 1 1/8"
Depth is 1 3/4"
Base is probably 1/2" max
Cheers, Terry

[Private_collector]

Thanks Terry,

Those photos will help me greatly.

It may be easier for me to have these fabricated by someone else. There is a local tourist attraction here, The Woodworks Museum. The machinery is all working and they do demonstrations for tourist groups. I might be able to get them interested in making those parts for me with minimal cost. I only thought of that last night. I will call in on the woodwork museum later today to ask if they are interested in taking a small commission

The Woodworks Museum is here: http://www.woodworksmuseum.com.au/index.asp

We also have a Gold Mining Museum, with working equipment and huge range of displays, from mining equip to military weapons: http://www.gympiegoldmuseum.com.au/

We also have the Mary Valley Heritage Railway (MVHR), with vintage rail engines that run on their own rail network of about 45-50km.
http://www.thevalleyrattler.com/


I took one of my door 'side curtains' to a local upholsterer. He was busy trimming a vintage utility truck when I called, so I have left the curtain with him, to examine. He will call me to advise price to make new canvas covers. I have ask him to save himself and my side curtain, if his workshop catches fire.

I'm in no hurry for the curtains, so it may work out well if I have him do these when work is low.

[Lynn Eades]

So what is it? Fire or Flood? Do you have both at once?

[Private_collector]

Well.....we HAD a flood. He better NOT have a fire He still has my curtain!



Check this out! What a bargain. Great for a boatie? From a buyers perspective, this is the time to inspect. The irony is, you CAN'T get in here to see it when its like this.

We bought our land high up. The problem with that is the higher winds that blow up the hill from the more 'swampy' elevations.

Still, thats what insurance is for.

You won't see me on television whining & saying "and it's not insured"

P.S: The block of land in the above photo was ENTIRELY under water. Not even one ant hills worth of dirt above the water!

[Private_collector]

Rained off & on again today, so STILL no top coat painting.

I finished installing and checking the switches on dash.

Reworked the rifle clips. Now they are straight again.
Also found a suitable size 'felt' to line the inside of the clip, so the rifle doesn't get damaged. I restored this No. 1 SMLE some years ago (Deac.) and don't fancy it getting scratched by the strong metal clip, thank you very much. The felt is actually one half of a set of velcro! I will trim it so it can't be easily seen.

The windscreen main frame is now fully repaired. The rust hole repair was not pretty welding, but it's functional.
I had to repair: 1x rust through, replace 1x windscreen slide thread, weld up 4x windscreen hinge holes (threads too loose), drill & re-tap 4x windscreen hinge holes, weld 1x windscreen slide thread (someone had cut 3/4 way through it!), Grind & body fill corrosion pitting along most of inside upper edge.

Gave the rear cab panel a second sanding, to rectify an area I wasn't happy with. I had applied further blade putty yesterday afternoon.

[Private_collector]

If weather is STILL bad tomorrow, I plan to continue with the under-dash electrical stuff. As you can see, the backing board is fully stuffed! I'm thinking of Masonite for a replacement. Anybody done this in the past? New resistor coming from Victoria, plus a 'spare' for the travel fault kit.

I bought 3 new rubber grommits for the voltage regulator while I was in town this afternoon. They are not original specs but will do OK. I have noticed my other regulator (not yet rcleaned up) has a lot more writing on the cover. I believe both are Ford, but the other one matches one seen in a photo Keith sent me recently. Might have a closer look at that tomorrow morning.

[Private_collector]

Keith,

Is this for CMP? I can't find it in my F60 or F15 parts books.
It's obviously Ford, but which ford?

[lynx42]

Originally Posted by T Creighton

Hi Tony,
My original ones were two piece which was just as well as the bottom bit was long gone.
I would suggest the base would be best out of treated ply.
Inside is 4 3/4"x1 3/4"
Wall Thickness is about 1 1/8"
Depth is 1 3/4"
Base is probably 1/2" max
Cheers, Terry

Tony,

The base has aslope inside the base to allow the rifle butt to sit correctly. It is thicker one end than the other. Don't fall for the trap of making them flat as the rifle won't rest easy.

Regards Rick.

[Private_collector]

Cheers Rick,

I didn't know that. I had wondered if it would be an issue, but I have not seen this mentioned anywhere, so thought it mustn't have been a problem.

Whether I make them, or have them made for me, i'll make sure that is catered for. That will mean I have to get the rear panel (with upper rifle brackets full attached) finished so I can gauge the angle from 'real-life'.

I had intended to call in to the Gympie Woodworks Museum while I was in town this afternoon, but they wern't open!!! Try again tomorrow

[Keith Webb]

It may not be in the F15 or F60S books but it is in the Field Artillery Tractor book (FGT-01) and is the wiring connecting the tail lights (from one side to the other) and according to the description for the new type cab, i.e. the cab 13 gun tractors. Given I have a Ford No9 FGT I'd be interested in it, although it may be for the Canadian beetle back version, it looks as though it may be about right to go up to the tail lights mounted on the roof.

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Keith,
Attachment 47651
Is this for CMP? I can't find it in my F60 or F15 parts books.
It's obviously Ford, but which ford?

[Private_collector]

Thanks for that. I knew you would find out what it's from.

I'll let the guy know and see what he's gonna do with it.

Will get back to you soon, if he is selling.

T.

[Private_collector]

At last. The parts are painted. Been waiting for nearly a week.

I can't attach the rear panel yet, because I am still waiting for the floor panel bolts. I want them all on first. I won't attach the windscreen support frame properly yet either, until the doors are finished.

When all the spraying was done, I brush painted all the new bolts that are on the cab frame and dashboard. There will be heaps more in near future, but todays left over paint will be a hard, gelatinous mass by the time those floor bolts come, I fear.

I have the rifle clips inside, and will be applying the felt to inner edges once I have sent this.

[cliff]

Coming along fantasticly Tony. Well done!

[Private_collector]

Rifle clips finished.

Remember these ratty old side curtains? A local upholsterer will be making a new set for me. I give him the go ahead tomorrow and choose the desired color. Will be taking close-up photos & measurements of the original D^D printing, to reproduce this on the new ones.

In the morning, I will be flipping a coin to see if I start on the windscreens or doors next. Either one will go onto the cab when finished, so i'm not really fussed which one I do first.

The 'night-time' job will be the Pyrene fire extinguisher. It is of brass construction, but really badly tarnished. I took to the holder bracket this afternoon with paint stripper. Tomorrow, it gets a coat of etch-primer and hopefully top coat.

I'll let you know tomorrow night, which job will be started next.

[Private_collector]

Coin toss decided next job would be windscreens.............so Doors it is.

There's a good reason why I ignored the guidance of ER II. When I took the second of the side curtains to upholsterer, I also took a door with me so he could see how everything sits when curtain is installed. He had removed the canvas from the first one before I got there, and did second one while I waited. The idea was for me to cleanup the frames, repaint them and give them back for canvas work to begin. And HERE'S THE CATCH, when I had both of the naked frames side by side, they were different lengths!!!!! One was a simple rectangle, the other had a longer top rail, which matches the forward angle of windscreen support frame.

Having had a few hours now to think this over, I will put the curtains on hold until the doors are repaired, installed on the cab, and curtain frames can be sat into place to check size etc..

I'll post a photo of the frames tomorrow. The size difference is quite dramatic, but it's interesting to know that both curtains would fit and serve their purpose, because of different size and cut style of canvas. I have bought steel rod & flat rod today, to make whatever frame alterations are required.

And that is why the doors are next!

As I said, one door is now at sandblasters, another still requires removal of screws & bolts etc. That's a Saturday afternoon or Sunday job. I have 6 dooors in total, and they are in varing degrees of decay. Ones not good enough for use will provide spares for the two chosen.

By the way, the long awaited bolts arrived today. They not correct, and the shop realised the error as soon as they arrived. Replacements have been ordered. This little saga is fast becoming a circus without a tent. A trilogy in four parts, if you will.

Ever heard of an old song called "The Gas Man Cometh"?

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Ever heard of an old song called "The Gas Man Cometh"?

Had to google it but it fits this hobby well

[Private_collector]

Here are the side curtain frames, showing variation in design & size.

Even the pieces that slot into doors are different.
It is surprising that they both have the same little clip device for securing the access flap, and both of those are in good condition!

The larger frame (with bent attaching point) will do just fine, so tomorrow I will build a jig to modify the smaller one. This jig will be kept to make further frames at some point in the future.

I am talking with the upholsterer, regarding a production of a further quantity of curtains for sale.

[Private_collector]

This afternoon I decided it was time to do a test fit of some cabin parts. The seats, floor plates, windscreen support and lower engine hatch are not bolted in place as yet. The rear panel is bolted loosely, and will be tightened down properly tomorrow. I initially expected to need it removed for floor bolt access, but if I sit in the engine space, every floor bolt can be tightened without removal.

The rear panel has a slight forward lean of 3mm. This sounds small but would be enough to foul the door when being closed. Shim material has been cut, in case the lean remains once tightened, though it may pull into correct position without needing this.

Seats each have a thin strip of rubber attached to the bottom of the frame, so it doesn't scratch the paint