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  #31  
Old 27-01-13, 10:08
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Jonathan,

I don't have a HUP to help out with the measurements, but I'm sure you will find the help you need here. I can tell you the windscreen frame is detachable and the same as on other Chevrolet CMPs (quite possibly Ford too). It might be worth looking for CMP body parts as a man with your skills would be able to turn a couple of cab doors into a HUP body door?!? You can use the double curvature back section of a regular CMP Cab 13 roof as the rear roof section on your HUP body.

I must commend you for taking up this challenge. Quite a few HUP bodies were cut down and reconstructed later, but to date I have not seen a project which also includes reversal of a chassis extension plus engine transplant.

Hanno
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  #32  
Old 27-01-13, 22:27
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Hanno,

I have to admit that it is quite a challenge but i shall enjoy it. I need dimensions but i suppose that if i can find someone in the Uk with one that i can measure it will be easier. Are there any good books specifically on CMP's out there? i have looked for but cant find any, the ones i have found only give a passing reference, not detailed information. Spares, well in the UK there dosn't seem to be any, or at least not on the net. If there is anyone out there with two front seats or anything else that might be of use, please contact me.

Regards,

Jonathan
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  #33  
Old 30-01-13, 16:58
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The weather in Wales Uk is rain, rain and wind so more time for me in the workshop. I had to go and find some steel channel to remake the floor struts in the cab, so as the next day was Sunday and i was off to a militaria show i decided to have a look at the drivers side floorpanel, that holds the excelerator pedal. As you can see by the pictures, who ever tried to weld a repair patch in didnt, have much success. As for the pedal, well that had been repaired by welding a standard hinge to it.

The plate was easy to repair, I just cut it back until I came to good metal and welded a patch in. After a little grinding and fiddling about, it was looking good.

The pedal on the other hand was a tad more complex. I had thought of making a complete new one but I have decide to, where possible, use what is left of the existing vehicle. I havn't got a complete unit and I dont exactly know how it should look but from what was left of the knackered end of the old one I had a few clues. So a bit of welding, a bit of grinding, a bit of drilling and I turned a new pivot pin and there you have it. I think it looks quite good. All i need to do is shotblast it and give it a coat of paint.

The next job is to replace the floor struts that have been cut out. But thats tomorrows job.
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  #34  
Old 16-03-13, 12:27
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Hi All,

Ive been putting some updates on the "plea for dimensions" post but thought i would get back to basics. Things here in old Blighty have are going spiffingly since Robert Morrison started supplying detailed pictures and Bruce supplied the much needed Dimensions. I have finished the fabrication in the cab area and repaired the doors, so it was on to the rear body. As you can see from the pictures things are going well but by geeves it takes some time to bend buckle and fabricate every piece.

Over the next week i should get the rear body mostly built/ fabricated and then on to the roof or maybe i'll skin the rear body, who knows. My saviour, Robert, is going to supply some more pictures of the gutter area and i need to do some homework as to how the roof is fixed on.

I posted a picture of an engine mount that is on my chassis and asked if anyone had any ideas as to what it was for, apart from the fact that it is for an engine. Anyone out there brave enough to have a guess?

As for those with a weather fixation, we have some as well. I would send pictures but i am too busy rebuilding the CMP.

Regards,

Jonathan
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  #35  
Old 16-01-14, 19:18
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Default HUP progress

Hi all,

its been sometime since I've posted a progress report on the HUP and that's because my eldest son persuaded me to bring forward my plans to demolish my old barn and build a new one, so now I have a new building to house my vehicles. I can't remember which were the last picture that I posted but the picture below is where I left the old girl 6 months ago before it was put outside under a sheet. The rear body frame is complete, the sides had been clad and the inner roof frame constructed.

Cladding the roof was the next job and this is a job that I dreamed of doing for all of the last 6 months. you can see the results so far below. I must admit that I am quite pleased with it.

regards,

Jonathan
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  #36  
Old 17-01-14, 02:42
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Wonderful job on the sheet metal....

Any chance that you took more pictures of the ongoing work on the rounded corners of the roof and close up of the finished product from both inside and outside...... and pictures of what you had to start with/from.

Thanks.... hoping to learn.

Bob C
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  #37  
Old 17-01-14, 04:48
r.morrison r.morrison is online now
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Default Nice shop...nicer Hup!!!

Nice to see some postings Jonathan. Bob, I've sent Jonathan 12 Gazillion photos of my unit, plus measurements. I can only say from what Jonathan has sent back....man does really NICE work! I'll try giving you a call over the next couple of weekends Jonathan. Robert
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  #38  
Old 17-01-14, 21:08
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Hello Bob,

There are some pictures at the top of this thread and a description. That is, if you mean from the start of the project. If however, you mean what did I have to start with as far as the rear body and the roof, well then Nothing. The whole body has been constructed using the dimensions and photo's supplied by Robert Morrison, plenty of scaling and an in depth engineering knowledge. I can't thank Robert enough for his help. Its a shame but no one else seemed willing to supply any detailed information on line. There are plenty of photos of vehicles in bits on the forum but they are not detailed enough.

When I visited the War and Peace show in 2013, I measured a HUP that was in attendance and I couldn't find any problems so far.
I Have got a load of pictures of the body construction and a lot of dimensions so if you need any.

regards,

Jonathan
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  #39  
Old 23-02-14, 20:32
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Default My project follow it on facebook

Jonathan,

Find my restoration project ( HUM ) on facebook

https://www.facebook.com/ChevroletC8A

Regards

Pieter
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  #40  
Old 23-02-14, 23:28
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Originally Posted by 8threcce View Post
Jonathan,

Find my restoration project ( HUM ) on facebook

https://www.facebook.com/ChevroletC8A

Regards

Pieter
Great way to share a project, please keep updating on MLU too.

By the way... your profile picture is not a HUM or a HUP but is an Australian CGT No8, and a really interesting photograph too, do you have a high resolution version?
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  #41  
Old 23-02-14, 23:36
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Hey Keith,

Yes I know however I found it such a beautiful picture, and it fitted nicely, but indeed you are right so I'm told.

Sorry but I don't have it in high resolution
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  #42  
Old 27-02-14, 22:55
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Pieter,

Lovely job, I know how much time and effort it takes. I don't actually do facebook, all too much hassle I fear. But I shall keep an eye on your project as its so close to my heart.

I've been busy, the roof is finished, apart from a bit of grinding. The rear sun roof took me longer than expected, it never ceases to amaze me how long making all the little bits takes. It now locks, lifts and moves as it should. The front passengers observation hatch is in place and for once this contains some original parts. The inner and outer frames were actually present and usable, as were the hatch catch and strengthening ribs. Alas the actual hatch is long gone and the fabricated replacement was rubbish so a new one had to be made.

Obviously and as usual, the only firm information that I have to work with is from the few dimensions and pictures supplied by Robert. As I don't have any original parts to copy this information has proved invaluable. The next job, is the rear wheel arches and guards. As I finish off grinding the roof, my mind has gone on to how to form the guards. Well It gives me something to dream about at night.

Regards,

Jonathan
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  #43  
Old 28-02-14, 15:59
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Wow! can't believe my eyes! Congrats Jonathan!

Better than mine ..which is original!

kostas
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  #44  
Old 02-03-14, 10:57
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Thanks Kostas and I am glad that you like it. Encouraging comments such as yours, gives one the enthusiasm to continue

regards,

Jonathan
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  #45  
Old 05-03-14, 14:59
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Sheeting is looking good!!, come on over, can you do mine?? LOL
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  #46  
Old 10-07-16, 22:49
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This mammoth restoration ... erhm ... recreation is still progressing:

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread...vrolet-CMP-C8a

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  #47  
Old 12-07-16, 13:02
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Pieter,

Lovely job, I know how much time and effort it takes. I don't actually do facebook, all too much hassle I fear. But I shall keep an eye on your project as its so close to my heart.

I've been busy, the roof is finished, apart from a bit of grinding. The rear sun roof took me longer than expected, it never ceases to amaze me how long making all the little bits takes. It now locks, lifts and moves as it should. The front passengers observation hatch is in place and for once this contains some original parts. The inner and outer frames were actually present and usable, as were the hatch catch and strengthening ribs. Alas the actual hatch is long gone and the fabricated replacement was rubbish so a new one had to be made.

Obviously and as usual, the only firm information that I have to work with is from the few dimensions and pictures supplied by Robert. As I don't have any original parts to copy this information has proved invaluable. The next job, is the rear wheel arches and guards. As I finish off grinding the roof, my mind has gone on to how to form the guards. Well It gives me something to dream about at night.

Regards,

Jonathan
Jonathan

What kind of bearings did you use for the hatch handle to operate?
I see that you have added a slight rim to your sunroof was that original? mines just flat with an L-shape profile ( how did you make the rim it looks quite fancy )
What type of rollers did you use to make the roof slide? Do you have any spares


Fantastic work.. I'm just in the middle of mine as you know, but feel a urge to visit you .. and discuss details

Greetings Pieter
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  #48  
Old 12-07-16, 20:40
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Well its been some time but I thought I would give you an update. Firstly thanks to Hanno for posting the last picture. I have finished most of the fabrication so here goes. The rear mud guards and inner mud guards were made using a wooden former. I cut, heated, hammered and welded the steel sheet, its not perfect but its not bad.
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  #49  
Old 12-07-16, 20:56
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The Three rear doors, hinges and latches are all made and awaiting painting. I was going to buy original door mechanisms from Dirk at LWD parts but as the doors aren't original, I decided to make my own. They are not exactly the same, the springs are different but once they are inside the door you cant tell.
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  #50  
Old 12-07-16, 21:04
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more door pictures
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  #51  
Old 12-07-16, 23:02
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The front observation hatch had at some time, been re-made using the original strengthening components and latch but it wasn't very good, so a new one was made again using any original components. The hatch inner and out surrounds were original but all the other associated parts were missing.

When I first started I made the petrol can holder on the passengers side to suit the German 20ltr type cans and then decided that it was wrong so I have altered it and made a new holder for the 1 gallon type containers.

Other components completed are, the battery box and lid, rifle clips and but holders, petrol tanks and pretty well any other parts that needed making. There is still a small pile of original components that need stripping and repairing but on the whole everything is there. Apart that is for one thing, the radiator expansion container that is bolted to the front passengers wing. I have never seen one close up and need dimensions, and pictures. How do you gain access inside it? what are the fittings like? infact, any details would be very much appreciated.

So the chassis is complete and ready to go into another building while I prepare and spray the body ready for the two to be mated back together.
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  #52  
Old 12-07-16, 23:07
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more pictures
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  #53  
Old 12-07-16, 23:14
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More picture.

Regards,

Jonathan
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  #54  
Old 12-07-16, 23:33
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Hello Pieter,

Everything is home made, the only actual details, measurements that I had were either from Robert Morrison in Canada or from a Vehicle that I photographed. Everything else has been gained by studying photos on the web and believe me I have spent hours doing that. If the rim that you are referring to is the one in the picture, then it is copied from Roberts. Obviously artistic licence has to come into it as I do not have the tooling that they used back then.

If you are in the UK feel free to come over.

Regards,

Jonathan
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  #55  
Old 14-07-16, 09:47
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Pieter,
If the bearings that you refer to are these, on either side of the hatch, then I turned up them on a lathe. For the shaft I used high tensile 1/4" UNF Counter sunk screws. I can imagine that there will be those who wouldn't agree with using these as the shaft but firstly, one, is not going to be constantly opening and shutting the hatch and secondly it was to help with getting the free play for the bearing right before welding. Also the load is taken on the shaft and on the taper of the head. I taped the receiving arm 1/4" UNF, then put the bearing on the shaft, screwed it in and nipped it up.
I then ground the end of the shaft that pertruded out of the receiving arm flush and disassembled it all. Then grind a taper on the end of the shaft for the weld to catch in. Grease and Reassemble it all, adjust the end play so that the bearing isn't too tight or too loose, weld the shaft in place and grind flush.

Sorry if that was teaching Granny to suck eggs, but I hope that it helps.

Jonathan
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  #56  
Old 20-07-16, 11:26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Moore View Post
Pieter,
If the bearings that you refer to are these, on either side of the hatch, then I turned up them on a lathe. For the shaft I used high tensile 1/4" UNF Counter sunk screws. I can imagine that there will be those who wouldn't agree with using these as the shaft but firstly, one, is not going to be constantly opening and shutting the hatch and secondly it was to help with getting the free play for the bearing right before welding. Also the load is taken on the shaft and on the taper of the head. I taped the receiving arm 1/4" UNF, then put the bearing on the shaft, screwed it in and nipped it up.
I then ground the end of the shaft that pertruded out of the receiving arm flush and disassembled it all. Then grind a taper on the end of the shaft for the weld to catch in. Grease and Reassemble it all, adjust the end play so that the bearing isn't too tight or too loose, weld the shaft in place and grind flush.

Sorry if that was teaching Granny to suck eggs, but I hope that it helps.

Jonathan

Jonathan,

Thanks for the explanation I was looking for an answer on that one too however referring to the bearing I meant the red circled item in the picture.
I guess that you did not add the locking device which is originally in the handle(?)
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  #57  
Old 22-07-16, 22:48
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Oh those bearing housings. They are mild steel blocks machined to size, drilled, tapped, drilled, reamed as required and cross drilled and tapped for the grease nipples. Then I machined and ground them to the desired shape. No, the handles do not contain the locking mechanism, as I could not obtain the required information when I made them. However should it become available then it can be added.

Jonathan
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  #58  
Old 24-07-16, 19:05
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I have been busy today repairing the front inner Wheel arches. Next job, lift the body in the air and spray underneath.

Jonathan
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  #59  
Old 24-07-16, 19:13
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More pictures
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  #60  
Old 24-07-16, 19:22
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Jonathan

Do you have pictures of the emergency brake specially inside the breakdrum?
I'm working on the brake cilinders right now
And the emergency lever connected to the brake shoe
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