Regarding Cab 12 Doors

Ganmain Tony · #1 20-01-11, 10:15

Gday Chaps,

Interested to know if anyone has made a set of Cab 12 Doors. Ive got an old one off Max and am thinking of having a go at making a set from scratch.

Thought I'd better consult the grand masters of Blitz metal work before I go and re-invent the wheel.

I may just make a set of Canvas covered ones. It appears the old beast may have had those as well in its later life but it certainly left the factory with metal ones.

Euan McDonald · #2 20-01-11, 13:06

Hey GT,
I,m sure I have see some doors in the last couple of week on a wrecked cab 12, just have to remember were. I sure keith would have some NOS one stacked away in a safe place.

Grant Bowker · #3 20-01-11, 14:08

Post 18 in the thread link shows some of the structure of the cab 11/12 doors found on Bob Carriere's trucks
http://www.mapleleafup.org/forums/sh...ighlight=frame
Pretty much all parts can be made with only a bending brake. The perimeter frame is basically a shallow U section, the curved section of the perimeter can be formed from a straight section with heat. Likewise the bracing bars are flat with folded edges. The tab to fold the outer skin around is easier to spot weld to the perimeter than to make as part of the perimeter frame. There are no compound curves to the skins (unlike the inner panel of the cab 13 door). The dovetail for the side opposite the hinges is available from Macs and possibly others.
http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-fe...0R3CHL1073245/
Likewise hardware for the door check straps (also available from standard truck supply palces as "footman loops")
http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-do...0R3CHL1129784/
We haven't found a good source for matching hinges yet.
It will make life a lot easier if you can rebuild a pair of wrecks because you can use one as a mirror image model for the other, also permits you to reuse hinges etc if they aren't too worn.

chris vickery · #4 20-01-11, 16:01

On my first truck I remanufactured my 12 cab Ford doors. It was no easy feat let me tell you...
First off I stripped the rotted outter skin off by cutting the spot welds and using an air chisel to separate the skin from the frames.
My frames were rotted out about 2/3 of the way down from the top.
The curved lower section is tricky although as previously posted, all the metal work can be made on a sheet metal brake.
I had a metal fab shop bend me up the required pieces and had them roll form the curves to original dimensions.
It took a lot of patience to carefully reweld all the bits back together,
Afterwards I reskinned the doors and spot welded the metal to the frames carefully trying to replicated the original weld locations.
I think the doors took longer to do than re fabricating the entire box (tray)...

Mike Kelly · #5 21-01-11, 03:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Euan McDonald

Hey GT,
. I sure keith would have some NOS one stacked away in a safe place.

yep.. Keithy got a NOS cab 12 door from me years ago .. remember Keith ????

MIKE

Keith Webb · #6 21-01-11, 06:55

But I also have an almost NOS cab 12 to receive it!

Having said that I may just have a couple of old spares in due course.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

yep.. Keithy got a NOS cab 12 door from me years ago .. remember Keith ????

MIKE

lynx42 · #7 23-01-11, 00:03

I know just the place for a pair, Keith. If you find some plaese let me know.
Cab 11 door are also on my want list. They seem to be the some but have an internal lining attached with screws.
regards Rick.

aj.lec · #8 23-01-11, 00:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by lynx42

I know just the place for a pair, Keith. If you find some plaese let me know.
Cab 11 door are also on my want list. They seem to be the some but have an internal lining attached with screws.
regards Rick.

The ones with the linings are Chev .Fords dont have the internal skin
I am also after Chev cab 12 doors and headlights

lynx42 · #9 23-01-11, 00:59

Thats strange Andrew, as my Cab11 FORD F30S has its original doors with the linings in place, (or whats left of them). The parts book also shows them with the linings. The Cab 12 F60L doesn't have the linings.
Rick.

aj.lec · #10 23-01-11, 01:24

Factory mix and match maybe
Maybe Ford used chev doors as well as diffs early on when parts were not available from their own factory in the cab 11

My ford F60l cab 12 do not have linings where as my chevs do
Was told that this was the difference in doors between the 2 marques by a long time MLU member and cab 11 and 12 owner

Brains trust required for clarification

Lynn Eades · #11 23-01-11, 02:42

I thought one (Ford, G.M.) had the pressed lines in them, and the others were plain? or is that the difference between Canada, and Australia production?

Keith Webb · #12 23-01-11, 03:11

All cab 12s were fully imported as far as I am aware. I've seen more Chevs with the inner lining than Fords.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

I thought one (Ford, G.M.) had the pressed lines in them, and the others were plain? or is that the difference between Canada, and Australia production?

Bob Carriere · #13 23-01-11, 03:25

Door wise..... from what I have observed here in Canada the doors for Chev are skinned inside and the Ford doors are unskinned but some do have a short piece at the bottom on the inside and it is attached with screws like the Chev skin almost as a reinforcement...... the 4 or 5 inch deep pocket so created must have been handy for odds and ends...gloves....pliers...maps...

Except for that difference they appear identical.

The BIG issue in my mind is finding suitable replacements for the hinges... I have seen various models of repros at antique car shows ...some made of solid brass worth $300 CDN for early Ford cars/trucks..... but they are not suitable in size....... any suggestions....???
On a lot of our old tired abused Cab11/12 the hinges have been twisted, rusted, cracked an rewelded or replaced with barn door hinges.....

Here are pictures and exceptions....

Both taken in Oshawa..... both are Ford..... can one say that one has no inside skin and the other is a For(d)skin.....?

I know... I should go to bed...

Bob

Howard · #14 23-01-11, 04:58

My 12 cab F15 has cab 11 tow hooks & engine covers. It also has an inner skin on the remaining door... maybe the inner skin was dropped for the 12 cab?

Mike Kelly · #15 24-01-11, 01:58

Yes , it has always been my understanding with the cab 11/12 doors : Chevs had the inner panel , and the Fords did not , but there are always exceptions as we know. The Chev cab 12's I have come across and my cab 11 had the inner door panels fitted.

Mike

Ganmain Tony · #16 24-01-11, 09:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Euan McDonald

Hey GT,
I,m sure I have see some doors in the last couple of week on a wrecked cab 12, just have to remember were. I sure keith would have some NOS one stacked away in a safe place.

Geez - a lot of discussion in three days - thanks for all the info fellahs.

Howard · #17 13-02-11, 03:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by aj.lec

The ones with the linings are Chev .Fords dont have the internal skin...

IMHO (

) it seems to me that all 11cabs (Ford & Chev) had internal skins, and that Ford dropped the skins for the 12 cab. See This Photo originally linked by Hanno in the "Under New Management" Thread...

Keith Webb · #18 13-02-11, 06:35

It is just possible we're looking at the outside of this door.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Howard

IMHO (

) it seems to me that all 11cabs (Ford & Chev) had internal skins, and that Ford dropped the skins for the 12 cab. See This Photo originally linked by Hanno in the "Under New Management" Thread...

Howard · #19 13-02-11, 06:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

It is just possible we're looking at the outside of this door.

Well, Derr...

I humbly pull my head in...

But still stick by my theory!

HH

Ganmain Tony · #20 08-05-18, 12:48

Righto Chaps,

Im sure this has been discussed before but want to reignite it as a topic.

Side curtains on the 11/12 Cabs must have had support rods in them that go into the little die cast holders at each end of the top of the door.

Does any one have pictures or know what they look like?

My way of thinking is they must be similar to Model T or A curtain rods.

Any ideas gentlemen??

Ganmain Tony · #21 08-05-18, 13:58

Found the answers in this thread - fantastic

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...t=curtain+rods

Bob Carriere · #22 08-05-18, 21:55

In all my years I have never seen a complete set of curtain rods.

I have seen pieces and know that they are partly round and flattened towards the end section............. would any one have a set to provide an actual tracing that we could scale up or down onthe computer...????

The door opening is laready ackward enough that many were dispensed with in field conditions ie North Africa.....in Canada in many historical parade square pictures they seem to prefver them tied back against the cargo box.......... and get in and out like a jeep........ I believe the same happened to the canvas side curtains.... the cargo box toe board and sometimes the bonnet or hood cover.

Luck would have it, I got a set of originals NOS curtains from Dirk years ago and fully intend to reproduce a set for my vehicle and keep the original for reference as the plastic window section is all yellow and brittle.

In reality they were not very useful and more cumbersome than we can imagine. In Canada they did use them but the Winter driving weather was a great motivation.

Bob C

David DeWeese · #23 09-05-18, 07:31

Hi,

Here's a link to my C8 restoration thread that has a lot of submitted info on the cab 11/12 door curtains. Read post #346 on down..
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...=11657&page=12

Hope this helps in some way.

Thanks, David

Bob Carriere · #24 09-05-18, 20:46

Thanks Hanno, David, Tony, Grant........ just spent the last hour reading the old postings....some of which I did not remember. Unfortunately some pictures have been lost for not using the MLU forum for posting....... something to be re-enforced with all the MLU members.

Rekindled a lot of old interest in the doors. That many years ago I rellied entirely on MLU for archives...... now I download all relevant text and pictures of interest directly into my CMP files....... so I went back and saved all the old postings into my archives.

Some how there were a lot more "how to" postings years ago then today. We have no reasons with the facilities of the digital camera...... It seems that everything we did was documented and written about..... I know we did a lot of wrok in the Barn this Winter that barely got posted....shame on me.

New committment ....I will!!!!!

Finally got the truck back on the road today after sleeping in the sea can since New Years day. Started without a glinch and brake pedal still very good....... the old M37 needed a brake job every Spring. I drove it for about 40 miles in the last two days........ and the brakes are lower ad could use and adjustment and possibly bleeding, engine oil is still dripping and the paint on one gas tank has peeled from gasoline spillage.

It is now resting on a cardboard coverd floor of the barn where I will stretch out and check every nuts and bolts..... look for new leaks, check all fluid levels, etc. Even got a new LED trouble light of the occasion.

Engine oil leak is now causing the 3rd and 4th gear to slip when shifting.

First step will be to remove the bottom sheet metal tray and spray as much "brake cleaner" cans as I can.... blow it dry and road test.

Step two..... the more permanent fix.......... remove the short drive shaft suing a propane torch to heat up the U joint bolts that were Loctite.......

....remove the inside engine cover to access the tranny from above and use the opportunity that without a roof I can easily lower the tranny in a sling from the overhead crane. This will be an opportunity to install the ceramic felt insulation I recently purchased.

....disconnect all the linkages, Ebrake, 4x4 levers, etc. drain the tranny, and remove the tranny from the bellhousing.

Remove the clutch pack and examine for oil contamination..... may need to replace the dis cif saturated with oil....

remove the bell housing and inspect the rear main seal. My seal came from a regular complete gasket set.....apparently there are some aftermarket neoprene that are higly recommended on Stovebolt......

That implies draining the engine oil. removing the oil pan...... raising the truck from the front with the overhead crane to allow the axle to droop to the lower point allowed by the springs....... block every thing in place with multi engine stand..... that should give me enough clearance to access the engines crank/bearings above the front axle....... or I remove the engine from the frame by fist removing the cab and all its wiring....... or remove the front axle as a total assembly by just disconnecting and rolling it out form under the truck.

In any event the crank as to be loosened..... the rear main removed and the new seal installed.

The reverse all of the above and the job is done. If it still leaks... I will by more oil!!!!

....and I will document every frustrating steps on camera.

Cheers