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  #1  
Old 01-01-25, 04:02
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default .....Chore Horse..... in with the New Year!!!

All the Best to Everyone for 2025....... in an attempt to stay sane during the Winter months, Grant and I are starting a long overdue project..... CHORE HORSE....... simply horsing around!!!!

Something we can work on during the cold months while sheltering in the barn.

Grant provided 3 basic manuals one on Nato caged gen, one came from Brian A. along with a partial tool box and a third one with a parts listing section.

Read and memorized all the trials and tribulations from Jordan and surfed the web for more pictures, etc.

Currently we have four on the work table of which one is the older 12 volts.
Photos will follow along with progress report and questions whenever we are stumped.....and no doubrt will be. Aiming for one 12 volts with a cover like Jordan, to match my 40 Chev...one in 24 volts.....both to be fully operational......and fore ever keeping an eye open for spare parts or other CH bargains.

Stay tuned.
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  #2  
Old 01-01-25, 15:01
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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All the best for 2025 to you Bob...and the Hammond crew!

I will certainly keep an eye out on what you guys experience when working on the Chore horses, as I also have gathered 3 of them in the meantime.....one with the hinging cover that I picked up from John Cordon in Normandy, last year

Alex
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Last edited by Alex van de Wetering; 04-01-25 at 12:37.
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  #3  
Old 02-01-25, 07:47
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Default Compound

These are 'compound wound' generators with 2 sets of field coils. One set for starting the petrol engine and the other set is used for generating the power.

They are often seen for sale here on the usual sites. The army here used them into the 1960s, converted to 28V for the Larkspur radio system batteries.

Tooles disposals had a number of the 28V sets but that was 40 years ago.
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  #4  
Old 02-01-25, 12:46
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Default 2025 at the Hammond Barn

Good to see the a continuation of the "Hammond Barn"!
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  #5  
Old 05-01-25, 04:29
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Well the barn was cold...but Lucifer thrived!!!

Well we tore down into the first Chore Horse..... most complete 24/28 v. painted black......

All seems to be there.... we did find some "new" vinyl covered wires by the magneto coil and some vinyl black tape. Brushes look relatively new...... so we stayed away from tearing down the coils in the gen. Now slowly cleaning up to make it runner for test purposes.

And we have questions....

Points are stamped "Shurhit" no part number ...looks like a generic point set from Delco...... any source suggestions for a new set???? I will canvass the local tractor dealer who has point setssss..... all loose in the parts section....... Delcos were used in Allis Chalmers tractors, Chev engines, Studebackers, Massey Ferguson gas engines,etc..... maybe able to eye ball a match...

Gasoline tank...... would like to clean the inside and apply a sealer but not sure what can be used since the tank is aluminum...... how to you etch the inside safely????

This one will be painted NATO green......some parts have been sandblasted the rest is getting cleaned ligthly before the paint ....sort of "lipstick" on a pig......

Soaked and cleaned the carburator....so small!!!... contgrolbox has been sandblasted and will be primed and flat satin alum. paint.... one original wire will be treated with "liquid tape" and some shrink heat wrap.......

Variable control looks ok will test for resistance....an idea how many ohms I should be looking at???

Air breather tube made of "white metal or alum has a cracked base at the junction to the carb..... may respond to J-B Weld epoxy.

Finally ????? below the engine .... attached too the enginebase that bolts on to the tank is a strange semi rigid fiber gasket material.... currently seems to be glued to the bottom of the engine casting...acting almost like a oil pan cover......very firmly in place so we have not removed it.....crank case was emptied and flush with brake cleaner..... As anyone else encountered this set up????


photos are coming....... my batteries died..... lack of recent use...... Grant's camera gave up the ghost but he got a replacement...

Other wise we have learned that working with cold fingers is a handy cap...... working with fingers frozen from the evaporation lacquer thinner or brake cleaner is even worst........ the little screws on the carb were a real challenge with numb fingers......

Stay tuned for more horsing around........
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  #6  
Old 05-01-25, 05:03
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Hi Bob

Glad my past posts can serve as some inspiration to you and Grant.

Points...and other chorehorse parts. Check with LWD Parts as they picked up the supply that Brian Asbury had.

Fuel tank. I stripped mine right down and removed the fuel pickup tube/screen and drain plugs. It was full of old fuel gunk and crud. I scraped out as much as I could with a small hand scraper. I then soaked the inside and out of the tank with Purple Zep degreaser and a small fish tank heater inside. It only took a couple of hours. I kept taking it out and flushing it to remove stuff as it loosened up. Just be aware that the Zep reacts with the aluminum. I forget which gas it creates so do some further reaction on it. But it did clean it up exceptionally well. As for a sealer, I wouldn't bother as the tank is aluminum and won't be rusting.

The carb is pretty easy to strip right down. There are a few very small screws holding bits in place.

The air breather/carb tube is aluminum as well. They frequently crack in that place. JB Weld is prob your best bet.

That semi rigid fiber gasket is doing two jobs. It does act as the bottom of the crank case, it also acts as the top of the fuel tank. I carefully removed mine with a brand new box cutter blade. When I reapplied it both sealing surfaces were given a thin coat of Permatex #2. I believe there is also copper washers under all the bolt heads that hold the crankcase to the fuel tank.
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  #7  
Old 05-01-25, 06:08
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Default Fs

Was a nice example FS here recently, unmodified - still 15 V output.

These things have little current regulation , they can push 20 amps through a battery - to the point of boiling away the electrolyte . Make a habit of feeling how warm the battery case is while the horse is running.
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  #8  
Old 05-01-25, 20:14
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Thanks guys.........

.....back to the big ice box on Monday!!!!!

may try using POR 15 as a sealer for the tank.....

On to LWD parts......... found a ton load of old NOS "Shurhit" ignition points listings on the web but without a speciffic part number I can't tell which is which going back to the late 1920s....... both set of point that I have, a NOS from Brian and the used one, have NO part number stamped on them...

Jordan.... how did you restore the red dial from the control box...... I rubbed lacquer thinner to get rid of the aluminum paint and it went clean to the metal with very faint lettering........ you used white glue?????

....and my can of liquid tape has all evaporated to a lump!!!!! back to PA...
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  #9  
Old 06-01-25, 02:17
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Default Sale

This is the horse I spotted recently FS. It is located in NSW .

A tip : I discovered that the resistance unit that is located in the screened ignition lead can be a cause of trouble with these chorehorse generators. Often , weak spark can be traced to the resistor.

Just recently I was removing the original ww2 era spark plug and the socket jammed and the porcelain insulator snapped .
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  #10  
Old 06-01-25, 05:49
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Bob

So long as the etching is good on the data tags it’s reasonably simple to restore them. I sprayed the dial red and let it dry for a week or so. Then use a new razor box cutter blade and carefully scrape off the paint from the raised lettering. Just go slow with it.
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  #11  
Old 07-01-25, 22:46
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Will try.......

Lettering is very faint and I am not sure my hands are as steady as a regular model maker!!!!!!!! Do they still sell "Letraset" sheets?????
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  #12  
Old 09-01-25, 19:05
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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If you want to go that route for the lettering. A model train company called "Woodland Scenics" does a pile of dry transfer letters/numbers in different fonts and colours. What I would recommend is to paint the disk the colour of the letters. Apply your letters. Overpaint in the red colour. Then you can carefully use some tape to remove the dry transfer letters. They will act as a mask and you should get some clearly defined letters.
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  #13  
Old 10-01-25, 19:09
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Is this a BSA unit, or Johnson Marine... or other?

Thanks

Tim
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  #14  
Old 10-01-25, 22:17
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default I was wrong.........

One of my 4 CH has a gauge missing and was looking for a new one..... search hi and Low for a small voltmeter.....convinced I needed a voltmeter...and of course could not find one ....Jordan told me Mac Auto had them,,,,,so went through the index of my 2017 MacAutocatalogue with no success..... then realized that my Old Mac AUto cat. only covered from the Ford model B 1932 and needed to look up Model A 1930... Jordan sent me a link from FB and there it was a replacement..... amp meter but still had doubts until Imadde it ot the barn today and Jordan was right it is a amp meter that I need..... which of course is not temporarily out of stock.....

So for the record....... IT IS a amp meter that I need and it fits a 1 5/8 hole in the control box........ finding a small one is the tricky part......... next regular size up is 2 1/16 or 2 5/8...... As suggested I tapped into LWD for parts and they are already on the way......

As far as the color and lettering for the control red dial, I may follow Jordan's suggestions of using a dry transfer/paint over than remove the letter process more in line with my big fingers.......

All my sheet metal has been sandblasted but it is too cold to paint in the barn and spraying paint inside the house workshop next to the wood stove is rather dangerous...... no sure if the fumes are dangerous but the risk of my wife smelling it would be very dangerous.....!!!!!!

Some of the original wiring will be reconditioned by using "liquid tape".....2 or 3 coats......thereby saving the original crimped/soldered original thick copper connectors.

Question for Mike..... where is the "resistance" located in the screened ignition lead????

Tim Bell..... the Chore Horse units that I have are all made by Outboard Marine Corp. from Peterborough, Ontario (OMC) and may have been done under license that came from the Iron Horse engine set up for Maytag washing machines........ some original design of that motor set up goes back to the late 1928 era....

There is one for sale around here listed at over 1200 dollars.....hihihi.... in as is condition with missing parts...

Stay tuned.
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  #15  
Old 10-01-25, 23:21
Paul Singleton Paul Singleton is offline
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Default Chore horse

$1200 for a chore horse! I sold one about five years ago for $25 to a member here. It was missing the muffler but otherwise complete. No compression though.
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  #16  
Old 11-01-25, 00:27
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default OK Brick wall.......

Mac Auto which as become Eckler's does not show dimension/specs for the Ammeter they sell.... so got onthe chat line...... said gauge EK-28-20699-1 no script gauge is 1 and 3/4 inch in diameter ( actually 44mm or 1.73).... the gauge on the CH is 1 5/8 in.

could enlarge the hole BUT..... 1/8 of an inch????.... any suggestions????
If I go with enlarging the hole I got to do it now while it is apart........ just ate to cut into original sheet metal..... 1/16 each side all around........

How did you fit yours Jordan????? grind????
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  #17  
Old 11-01-25, 03:32
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Bob I’ll check the ones I have from Macs that I bought years ago. It seems the original was a 20-20 ammeter and not the 30-30 ones the offer now. I suspect you will be fine with it firing without having to enlarge the hole.
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  #18  
Old 11-01-25, 04:13
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Default Resistance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post

Question for Mike..... where is the "resistance" located in the screened ignition lead????





Stay tuned.
The resistor is located where the clamp is , the clamp that holds the choke cable onto the shroud. The resistor is inside the screened spark plug lead . It's rare to find a chorehorse with the original screened ignition lead.

These sets go for around $100 to 200 here. Depending on condition, they are often incomplete and in rough shape.

I've noticed: even when they don't have much compression they will still run ok.

Electronics 101. The ammeter is a moving coil meter, able to be utilised as either a voltmeter or a ammeter. Often the ohms per volt or FSD ( Full Scale Deflection ) of the meter is written or printed on the face of the meter. You use a formula to work out the value of the external resistor , in parallel for measuring current and in series for measuring voltage. Using the formula you can fit a meter that has been calibrated to measure a certain parameter of either current or voltage.

This is a good read https://www.explainthatstuff.com/movingcoilmeters.html

Have you seen this ? https://www.vintageplanet.ca/Model-T...DqVGdTkhMYScYp
https://www.modeltford.com/item/5016...ShCRF9QlxU9bc9
Another
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Last edited by Mike Kelly; 11-01-25 at 04:39.
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  #19  
Old 11-01-25, 06:04
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Amazing.....

Someone from around the world tells me of a Canadian distributtor....thanks Mike. Never heard of Vintage Planet...... will surf their site...curious.

will have to go feel them spark plug wires on my CH..... 3 of them have the original woven steel mesh....but never seen a resistor added externally or inside the mesh????

I have yet to put a ohms tester on the variable control but it looks complete!!!

So the original gauge of 20-0-20 is about 1.625....maybe close enough to
1 5/8....the 1 /34 maybe the bezel???

So will order the 44 mm one from Mac AUto and make it fit like Jordan did......

Now to find that buried resistor in the plug lead!!!!!
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Old 11-01-25, 06:17
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Amazing.....

Someone from around the world tells me of a Canadian distributtor....thanks Mike. Never heard of Vintage Planet...... will surf their site...curious.

will have to go feel them spark plug wires on my CH..... 3 of them have the original woven steel mesh....but never seen a resistor added externally or inside the mesh????

I have yet to put a ohms tester on the variable control but it looks complete!!!

So the original gauge of 20-0-20 is about 1.625....maybe close enough to
1 5/8....the 1 /34 maybe the bezel???

So will order the 44 mm one from Mac AUto and make it fit like Jordan did......

Now to find that buried resistor in the plug lead!!!!!
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